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SDunn
10-09-2007, 02:07 PM
Is anyone else having a problem stringing this racket? I am finding it very difficult to bypass mains that cover holes for crosses, especially on first several crosses. I used Gamma Professional. Suggestions?

shojun25
10-09-2007, 02:59 PM
Use an awl or a pathfinder (if you have one). Make a space where the main strings are blocking the cross string hole. Then insert the cross string into its respective hole. You will have to do this with most (if not all) racquets.

It sounds like you are a new stringer. If you aren't, correct me if I am wrong.

SDunn
10-09-2007, 05:29 PM
Thanks for the reply, but I am not a new stringer. I ended up using a 17 gauge Alu the 16 gauge Gamma was too difficult. There is so little room to move the string I ended up fraying the main.

Oh well, let's hope I like it with the Lux Timo.

SDunn
10-09-2007, 05:31 PM
Shojun,

kind of ironic, but my Speedport is a replacement for the O3 Tour MP, like yourrs

saram
10-09-2007, 07:20 PM
Not sure if it is different at all than my O3 Tour mids, but I have not had too many problems. I can string them with nylon with success. As mentioned above, the awl is your friend. If you don't have an awl, stick a pice of poly through the desired hole, and push your string against it. Guide the string through the hole with the assistance/following of the poly and it should do the trick.

Stan
10-10-2007, 04:58 AM
The Speedport racquets are POORLY engineered in regard to stringing issues. Prince gets a grade of D- in this area. They are especially poor for two piece stringing. Like many of Prince's technologies,the Speedports were rushed to market despite not being ready for prime time. This is a habit with Prince and I have just gotten used to it.

LoveThisGame
10-12-2007, 06:13 PM
Is anyone else having a problem stringing this racket? I am finding it very difficult to bypass mains that cover holes for crosses, especially on first several crosses. I used Gamma Professional. Suggestions?

If one-piece, pre-weave the first two crosses before tensioning the last two mains.

I've also found when encountering an empty cross string hole with a main over it, that waxing an awl and inserting a short distance through the hole from the outside will help push the main enough out of the way so that when removed the cross string will pass on through. (That wax helps too.) Get an eyeball looking at the hole horizontally to pick a side of the main string to insert on. There are plenty of racquet models of all brands which need this help, and it help it does.

psp2
10-12-2007, 07:01 PM
So far I have strung the SP Black at least a dozen times (both 1 piece and hybrids). I have never had an issue with the crosses. The last mains do kind of block a cross hole near the top and the bottom... just simply press down on the main string slightly and poke your cross through.

BigGriff
10-12-2007, 08:00 PM
I just finished stringing a speedport red two-piece and ran into the same problems. I tried to use my pathfinder awl with no luck. I tried to press down on the string blocking the grommet, strike two. I tried the trusty wax technique, strike three.

I had to bite the bullet, reclamp, and go back. I just pre-ran the last two mains because I was unable to get them thru the grommets after I tensioned them.

I didn't have nearly as many problems with the older O3's. Despite the fact I, m not a fan of the first generation O3's, I am disliking the speedports even more. I also noticed the vibration dampener seemed too soft. It warped and wiggled out of the ports when I tensioned the string.

I am just glad that I don't see too many O3's in my area. I string more Wilson and Babs than anything else.

beernutz
11-18-2007, 01:07 PM
The person who designed the string pattern for the Speedport red should be dragged slowly behind a truck. What a trainwreck of a design.

I did one for a friend as a favor and I knew I was in trouble when I looked at the stringing diagram on the Prince website. Never again.

10usstring
11-18-2007, 02:22 PM
I string these one piece and pre string the outer 2 mains and first crosses without tensioning the outer mains until the crosses are in. Allow some extra string on the short side and you shouldn't have a problem with the blocked holes.

TravelinMan
11-18-2007, 06:17 PM
I have a Speedport Black and a Tour and I do not see the big issue with stringing these. Now I am a very new stringer (about a dozen racquets, mine and my sons) but other than locking the table when pulling the crosses in the ports, I find the Speedports to not be any difference from our other racquets (Babolat). So I'm not getting the "poorly designed" comment.

As to blocked holes. On another thread I was given the great advice to put a few inches of scrap string inside the main string where it is covering the blocked hole. Then when I get to it on the cross, just pulled the scrap string slightly with pliers and feed the cross through and remove the scrap, no issue, very simple, very fast.

Also, even though I use a full poly setup, I still string the Speedports as a 2 piece. Just my preference.

beernutz
11-19-2007, 10:21 AM
I have a Speedport Black and a Tour and I do not see the big issue with stringing these. Now I am a very new stringer (about a dozen racquets, mine and my sons) but other than locking the table when pulling the crosses in the ports, I find the Speedports to not be any difference from our other racquets (Babolat). So I'm not getting the "poorly designed" comment.

As to blocked holes. On another thread I was given the great advice to put a few inches of scrap string inside the main string where it is covering the blocked hole. Then when I get to it on the cross, just pulled the scrap string slightly with pliers and feed the cross through and remove the scrap, no issue, very simple, very fast.

Also, even though I use a full poly setup, I still string the Speedports as a 2 piece. Just my preference.

Having to use tricks to get around intentionally blocked holes and to pull crosses (I had to put a Sharpie in between the crosses to have enough room between them to clamp them since my turntable won't lock in any position) is a trainwreck of a design from a stringer POV, IMO. YMMV.

shojun25
11-19-2007, 12:38 PM
Having to use tricks to get around intentionally blocked holes and to pull crosses (I had to put a Sharpie in between the crosses to have enough room between them to clamp them since my turntable won't lock in any position) is a trainwreck of a design from a stringer POV, IMO. YMMV.

I tried that sharpie thing before I got a boomerang tool in my O3 Tour, but it didn't fit... I think it only works in thicker beams.

Mansewerz
07-11-2008, 02:16 PM
If one-piece, pre-weave the first two crosses before tensioning the last two mains.

I've also found when encountering an empty cross string hole with a main over it, that waxing an awl and inserting a short distance through the hole from the outside will help push the main enough out of the way so that when removed the cross string will pass on through. (That wax helps too.) Get an eyeball looking at the hole horizontally to pick a side of the main string to insert on. There are plenty of racquet models of all brands which need this help, and it help it does.

By last two mains, do you mean last two as in last two on the long side or last two as in the outer mains?

jim e
07-11-2008, 03:02 PM
I tried that sharpie thing before I got a boomerang tool in my O3 Tour, but it didn't fit... I think it only works in thicker beams.

If you decide to use the sharpie technique, you place it between the crosses to keep the cross string that you are tensioning in the proper position not in the o port like a boomerang. On another forum, someone also made a plastic block to place between the crosses that works very good as well.

As for blocked holes, the scrap piece works great as mentioned, but if you did not place the scrap string there in 1st place, you can use a dental floss threader(butler brand seems to work nicely and very cheap), it is a blunt flexable plastic needle you can thread the floss through, thread the threader through the blocked hole, (works best if floss is doubled up), and either push down or up on the floss to open the blocked hole. It works very well, and does not take much time at all to do. I keep a floss threader with the floss through it on tool tray, and pull it out when needed, btw waxed floss is best as helps with sliding the string through.Just an idea for those of you that have a problem as it helps me when the normal way fails.

LionsNC
09-04-2010, 11:37 AM
I string these one piece and pre string the outer 2 mains and first crosses without tensioning the outer mains until the crosses are in. Allow some extra string on the short side and you shouldn't have a problem with the blocked holes.

Thanks for tip. On a two string setup just don't tention the first cross until you have pulled the second cross through the blocked holes. I can't believe I have been fighting this for about a year now!

The speed port black is a bad design though! I have never had this much trouble with any other raquet, including other O3s.

LionsNC
09-04-2010, 11:43 AM
I have a Speedport Black and a Tour and I do not see the big issue with stringing these.

As to blocked holes. On another thread I was given the great advice to put a few inches of scrap string inside the main string where it is covering the blocked hole.

Also, even though I use a full poly setup, I still string the Speedports as a 2 piece. Just my preference.

Probably because you are using Poly is why you haven't ran into the problem. ALU for one is easy to force through two strings, but a soft multi is not and on the speed port black it's almost impossible., even when using the tip you posted above.

Kevo
09-04-2010, 12:47 PM
I string my friends SpeedPort Blacks all the time. You have to string the top two crosses before finishing the last mains. It's a pain, but the blocked holes can be serious frustration if you don't take care of those top two crosses before finishing the mains.

On the new Speedport Black, the Exo3 Black I think, it's even worse because they removed the string guides from the grommets on the bottom blocked holes. I was a bit peeved. It's not nearly as bad as the top, but at least with the original black it was refreshing to just thread the string right through on the bottom.