PDA

View Full Version : The J011yroger guide to strings.


Pages : [1] 2 3 4

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 04:39 AM
OK TWers, the time has come, for the long awaited and much ballyhooed J011yroger guide to strings. Please read, discuss and feel free to ask questions. All I ask is that you keep it respectful, and thoughtful.

Firstly, we begin with a disclaimer.

This guide is my opinion, entirely. It is based strictly upon my opinions observations and feelings. I have no scientific experimentation, proof, or other support for the statements that I make. I have not tried every string on the planet, nor do I intend to.

Strings are an extremely important thing to pay attention to. As much effort as you put into finding a racquet, you should put an equal amount into the strings, because if all goes as planned, the strings are the only thing that touches the ball. You spent $200 on your racquet, why scrimp and put some jive string in it?

Now a rundown of the basic string types.

Tournament Nylon. The cheapest, most basic, junk string on the planet. Suitable for absolute beginners who can't tell at all the difference in strings, tensions, whatever. Also for the most frugal of all tennis players.

Synthetic Gut. The go-to string for 80% of all tennis players. Made of nylon (Not to be confused with tournament nylon) syn-gut is cheap, plays fairly well for a short time, and is very common. Highly reccomended to most players 3.5 and lower. Prince Synthetic Gut is the most popular string, but several other companies make good quality fine playing syn-guts. If you are a string breaker, syn-gut is not very durable and if you are a hard hitter you may find it to get soft rather quickly aswell. If you are just starting out experimenting with strings, the first thing you do is get a basic syn gut installed, and use that as your starting point to determine where you go from there, what you want more or less of. You may just find that the syn-gut suits you just fine, and end up staying with it for the rest of your tennis playing days.

Multifiliments. The next step up from Syn-Guts. Multis hold tension better, are more powerful, are soft and easy on the arm/joints. If you find that your syn-gut stringjob is getting gooey before it is breaking, if you want a bit more feel, or if you want a bit more zip or bite on your ball, then a nice multi would be the next thing to try. Multis are more expensive, and generally they are not terribly durable.

Natural Gut. The golden standard for strings since the days of old. Natural Gut, especially the top tier brands, is the standard against which all strings are judged. They are the most powerful strings, they hold tension the best, bite hard, and are fairly durable. The downside is that gut is expensive, and that it doesn't like humidity. If you play gut, make sure you have a backup frame with a synthetic string in case the weather gets bad. If you are a serious player, try it, splurge on a full gut stringjob to see what it is like. For 95% of the tennis playing population, gut is the best string, for your arm, your health, and your game. Very few people play it due to the cost, but it plays so well for a long time, that it is actually a pretty cost effective solution for non string breakers.

Polyester All the rage, what the pros use. What 95% of the tennis playing population should NOT be using. Poly is a stiff, durable string, that if you have sufficient batspeed will allow you to generate wicked spin. Newer polys (Called Co-Polys) are softer and hold tension better than older polys, but poly strings in general are still stiff, harsh, and don't hold tension well at all. If you don't have the racquet head speed to make these strings bend, then you would be best suited trying something else. Polyester strings are only good for a very short amount of time before they "Go Dead" and stop working their magic. After Poly goes dead, it is about the worst string on the planet. This happens long before the strings break. Generally poly stringbeds do not need to have the strings straightened out because they slide back after every hit. If you see that your poly stringbed needs straightening, then it is VERY DEAD and needs to be re-strung ASAP. Poly is not at all good or reccomended to anyone with arm issues or injuries. If your arm starts hurting, try something else.

Kevlar The ultimate in durability. Kevlar is highly abrasion resistant, and is usually strung up in hybrid form with a synthetic cross string. It is a dead low powered string, with terrific bite. Most people who formerly used Kevlar have switched to Polyester, but there are still some holdouts. Reccomended if you have no arm troubles, and nothing else lasts you long enough.

String Gague

Now that you know which string you are looking at, the next thing to choose is gague. Strings come in gagues from 15-20. 15, 19, and 20 are very rare. The average string gagues run from 15L to 18, the vast majority of people play 16 or 17. The higher the number the thinner the string. The L after a number if seen signifies light. That can be considered 1/2 of a gague. So 16L is thinner than 16 but thicker than 17.

The thinner the string, the more bite you get on a ball, generating more topspin with the same stroke. For some people this will allow them to swing harder and keep the ball in play, for others it will result in them hitting too much topspin and not having enough carry on their ball, otherwise known as not having enough penetration, or not piercing the court. You want your ball forcing your opponent back, not landing and sitting up for him to hit.

Thinner strings allow you to better feel what is going on with the ball, but are less durable than thicker ones.

I reccomend determining your acceptable durability/string life range (How often you are willing to restring) and playing the thinnest string that you can which meets your criteria for durability. If you are not breaking 16, try 17, not breaking 17 try 18. If you find that your ball is landing short with the thinner gague string, first try to reclaim your depth by string tension before reverting back to your old thicker gague string.

To be continued...

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 04:39 AM
...Continued from above.

Next topic.

Restringing.

If your strings break, they need to be restrung.

If you are not a string breaker, and are using synthetic, or natural gut, or a multifiliment. The general rule of thumb is to restring as many times per year as you play per week. If you live in a cold winter area, and don't play over the winter, then make sure you have a nice fresh stringjob for the beginning of your season, and then restring accordingly during the season.

If you are not a string breaker and are using Polyester, then as soon as the strings stop sliding back into place, and need to be straightened between points, you should restring.

If you are not a string breaker, and you are using Kevlar, restring at once, with something that is not Kevlar, then follow the guidelines for your new string.

Most people don't realize that string performance is going downhill until it is way too late. Because you play with the racquet every day, you don't notice the gradual decline in string performace. It is like if you bought two identical dark navy blue t-shirts. If you put one in your dresser and left it there, and wore and washed the other one every day for two months. The one you were wearing every day would fade, but you wouldn't notice until it became really pronounced because it happened slightly every day. But when you went back to your dresser and pulled out the brand new one, holding it up next to the one you have been wearing every day and you would immediately see the difference.

Only difference with strings is that you don't have a Wife/Mother/Girlfriend to say "When are you going to throw that ratty old t-shirt out?"

How tight to string?

The reccomended tension range on the racquet is there for a reason, and is a good place to start, in fact, right in the middle of it is good. But it is just that, a reccomendation, feel free to go higher or lower than the range if that is what you feel you need. With Polyester strings, I would start out 10% lower than you would with a syngut, and take it from there. You may end up higher or lower from there, but it as most things with string is a process of experimentation.

When looking for your tension, you are going after two things, and depending on how serious of a player you are, you are going to choose one over the other, to be your primary focus.

Depth, yes, I know, broken record, dead horse. Depth, is key, so important words cannot begin to describe it. Hitting deep is to tennis as eating is to living. You need to find a tension that allows you to take a nice smooth even swing at the ball, and have it land deep. Beyond the service line, preferably in the back 1/3 of the court. It should not take effort to hit deep, you should be able to swing easily, and smoothly, and have the ball land in the back 1/3 of the court. String tighter to shorten up your ball, string looser to get it deeper.

Feel, the second thing, some people like the way a firm stringbed feels, some people like the way a soft stringbed feels. Stiff stringbeds, tight stringing etc, are harder on people with arm injuries so that is a consideration aswell. Feel also has a lot to do with targeting, and accuracy, especially volleying. Most feel that stringing tighter helps with this, but I feel having something that you feel comfortable with will serve you better, and give you better accuracy and control than just randomly stringing tighter.

Do you play for fun, and want your racquet to feel good, or do you play because you want to play your best tennis. That will sort out weather you prioritize feel or depth.

Be certain that if you are hitting the ball long, that the problem is not you. There is a difference between driving the ball long, and not hitting a good stroke, and having the ball land when it runs out of steam and drops to the ground. If your balls are floating long at a blistering 7mph, your setup doesn't have too much power, you don't need to string tighter, you need to put that Amex card away, and make your way to the practice courts.

Different racquets, different tensions, same number on the stringing machine

If you string a 90" frame at 60lbs, and a 115" frame at 60lbs, the 90" frame will be strung tighter. The longer the strings, the more there is to stretch and the looser it will become. Kind of like taking a shoelace and a 30' rope and tying them to a fixture. It doesn't take much to pull the shoestring taut, but you need to pull pretty hard on the rope to make it taut.

Same Racquet, Same number on the stringing machine, different machine, different tension.

All stringing machines string slightly differently, some string vastly differently. A high end constant pull electric machine will string much tighter than a low end lockout machine. Keep you racquets going back to the same machine, if you want the same tension every time. Different people stringing on the same machine set at the same tension will give you different stringbed stiffnesses, not that either would be a bad stringer, but some people string looser, and some tighter. So if you are picky, same person, same machine.

On Hybrids

Hybrids are when you use a different string in the main and the cross, this started for durability reasons, as players would break strings often, and need a more durable string. The durable string was harsh feeling and low powered, so since the mains normally broke players would put a durable string in the main, and a soft string in the cross to regain some of their feel and power. This is the case with most kevlar or Poly blends today. You use Kevlar or Poly as the main string (The long ones that go from the head to the throat) and syn gut, gut, or a multi, as the cross string (The other ones that are not the mains ;))

Also players hybrid gut putting the gut strings in the mains, and a cheaper synthetic in the cross so that they get most of the benefits of playing gut, but don't have to pay for a full set.

Lately people have been putting a gut or multi main, with a poly cross, going for the power and feel of the softer string, and the spin characteristics of the poly. This is an expensive proposition for most as this is probably the least durable blend that one can have.

A few jumbled together closing thoughts.

If you break syn gut, and multis, but are not ready for poly/kevlar because you either don't like the feel and stiffness, or don't have the batspeed, or have arm troubles. Try Head RIP control. It is a very durable synthetic with ribbon construction. Softer than poly/kevlar, and lasts a good long time for most players.

If you like the idea of polyester with the added spin, and constant stringbed without having to adjust the strings, but you don't have the batspeed to really make it sing, (If you are currently playing poly and leaving it in for a month, then this is you), or if you like the idea of something that performs in a similar manner, but is softer feeling and more powerful. Try Prince Recoil. I was very impressed with it, and think it will help a large number of players. On the downside, it is pretty expensive.

Lastly, if you want to try something, try it. Stringing is about experimentation, and don't let another person, or this handy dandy guide stop you. If you have only been playing a year, but you want to know what Luxilon feels like, then hey, give it a shot, you won't play your best tennis with it, but at least you will know what it is like. Just keep in mind the things I have written, and understand the things you are trying for fun, and the things you are trying to make you play better. Keep your health in mind above all else.

J

Zhou
03-08-2008, 05:15 AM
Another Great Guide by the Great J011yroger.
I put PHT in the mains because I like the spin and NXT in the because it really softens up the string bed.

Sentinel
03-08-2008, 05:18 AM
The general rule of thumb is to restring as many times per year as you play per week.
Should it be as many hours we play per week.
JR, Thanks a lot for the guide.

Pro_Tour_630
03-08-2008, 05:22 AM
thanks for this thoughtful review,

You did not mention the most important aspect IMO in strings is the GAUGE of these strings and how they play.

Stuff like most people play 16g, what will happen if you go 17g or 15g in open or dense pattern etc...... don't forget to mention us lonely (under %5) 18g players:)

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 05:28 AM
Should it be as many hours we play per week.
JR, Thanks a lot for the guide.

Not really, I was going to generalize and say restring every 3-4 months, but decided to go with the old standby, I might go back and change it.

I don't really think someone who is not a string breaker, but plays 2 hours a day 5 days a week, needs to restring almost monthly. That is a bit of overkill.

If you are not a string breaker then time is doing more damage to your strings, than hitting the ball is, hence my 3-4 month theory.

J

cliuc
03-08-2008, 05:29 AM
This thread should be made sticky ASAP!

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 05:30 AM
thanks for this thoughtful review,

You did not mention the most important aspect IMO in string/stringing and that is the GAUGE of these strings and how they play.

Stuff like most people play 16g, what will happen if you go 17g or 15g in open or dense pattern etc...... don't forget to mention us lonely (under %5) 18g players:)

LOL! I wrote half of the guide last night, and half this morning and totally forgot about gague. Last night I planned out what I wanted to say, and this morning I completely forgot to include it.

Thank god for the edit function.

J

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 05:30 AM
Loosing my mind at the tender age of 25

J

ThA_Azn_DeViL
03-08-2008, 05:30 AM
very nice guide, i give it a 10 out of 10 :)

Pro_Tour_630
03-08-2008, 05:35 AM
LOL! I wrote half of the guide last night, and half this morning and totally forgot about gague. Last night I planned out what I wanted to say, and this morning I completely forgot to include it.

Thank god for the edit function.

J

no problem , there are these facts about string on TW

String Facts


Lower string tensions generate more power (providing string movement does not occur).
Higher string tensions generate more ball control (for experienced players).
A longer string (or string plane area) produces more power.
Decreased string density (fewer strings) generates more power.
Thinner string generates more power.*
More elastic strings generate more power. (Generally, what will produce more power will also absorb more shock load at impact.)
Softer strings, or strings with a softer coating, tend to vibrate less.
Thinner strings tend to produce more spin.
Decreased string density (fewer strings) generates more spin.
The more elastic the string, the more tension loss in the racquet after the string job.**

Pro_Tour_630
03-08-2008, 05:36 AM
this is also a helpful link

http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/LC/String/StringReference.html

String Gauge Generally speaking, thinner strings offer improved playability while thicker strings offer enhanced durability. Tennis string gauges range from 15 (thickest) to 19 (thinnest), with half-gauges identified with an L (15L, 16L, etc), which is short for “light”. A 15L string is thinner than a 15 gauge but thicker than a 16 gauge string. Thinner strings also provide more spin potential by allowing the strings to embed into the ball more.

Gauge Conversion

USEuropeMillimeters
14 11 1.50-1.65
15 9.5 1.41-1.49
15L 9 1.33-1.41
16 8.5 1.26-1.34
16L 8 1.22-1.30
17 7.5 1.16-1.24
18 7 1.06-1.16
19 4 0.90-1.06
20 3.5 0.80-0.90

YULitle
03-08-2008, 05:40 AM
Looks good :D

jcstennis
03-08-2008, 05:41 AM
..."jive string"! Nice! :)

Nice write up... first thread in a long time, that i sat and read the whole thing!!!

Sticky, Sticky, Sticky!

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 05:47 AM
no problem , there are these facts about string on TW

Ya, I wasn't thrilled with/didn't agree with some of the stuff in there, and none of it was explained, hence my guide.

J

Loco4Tennis
03-08-2008, 05:59 AM
...Continued from above.

Same Racquet, Same number on the stringing machine, different machine, different tension.

All stringing machines string slightly differently, some string vastly differently. A high end constant pull electric machine will string much tighter than a low end lockout machine. Keep you racquets going back to the same machine, if you want the same tension every time. Different people stringing on the same machine set at the same tension will give you different stringbed stiffnesses, not that either would be a bad stringer, but some people string looser, and some tighter. So if you are picky, same person, same machine.



i perticularly like this advise, well said!!
also, lots of information on both posts, not sorry i read all of it :-)

Lloyd Barcenilla
03-08-2008, 06:18 AM
Polyester What 95% of the tennis playing population should NOT be using.

Funny that, i use polyester, and i see a lot of people on this board using it,

Maybe i should try some syn gut or a full multi again, instead of thinking im a hard hitter and need a poly, as i do not actually break strings that often, i think im going to lose control if i switch from a poly, but its probably mostly my technique thats making me miss, rather than the strings.

nickb
03-08-2008, 06:21 AM
Nice guide J...really impressive...

There is just 1 thing I disagree with...I dont think multis hold tension better than syn guts at all...I find them much worse (they also go mushy fast).

Nick

YULitle
03-08-2008, 06:22 AM
Nice guide J...really impressive...

There is just 1 thing I disagree with...I dont think multis hold tension better than syn guts at all...I find them much worse (they also go mushy fast).

Nick

You are right. Multis fundamentally do not hold tension better than synthetic guts.

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 06:23 AM
Funny that, i use polyester, and i see a lot of people on this board using it,

Maybe i should try some syn gut or a full multi again, instead of thinking im a hard hitter and need a poly, as i do not actually break strings that often, i think im going to lose control if i switch from a poly, but its probably mostly my technique thats making me miss, rather than the strings.

If you have two frames, string one up with a multi, or syn, and ask your hitting partner which one you hit the better ball with.

J

Zhou
03-08-2008, 06:27 AM
With my old racket I did not break strings often because I hit pretty flat. Now with my new racket, I use more spin so my strings are fraying.

BounceHitBounceHit
03-08-2008, 06:30 AM
Hey Jolly! Fantastic post, as usual. However I do disagree with your recommendation for Head Rip Control as a reasonably durable alternative to poly. I shred that stuff in no time flat. ;) CC

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 06:36 AM
Nice guide J...really impressive...

There is just 1 thing I disagree with...I dont think multis hold tension better than syn guts at all...I find them much worse (they also go mushy fast).

Nick

You are right. Multis fundamentally do not hold tension better than synthetic guts.

I have found it to be both ways, depending on brand and string, as well as how tight you string it.

Lots of middling string breakers complain of multis going mushy, but I think they hang in there better than syn gut over time (resting time more than hitting time)

Really to me it is a personal preferance thing and you have to experiment.

To me personally, most syn guts generally are smoked in 15-20 mins, while multis play ok for a bit longer. And I feel hold tension better in the bag, so I gave them the edge.

J

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 06:40 AM
Hey Jolly! Fantastic post, as usual. However I do disagree with your recommendation for Head Rip Control as a reasonably durable alternative to poly. I shred that stuff in no time flat. ;) CC

Guys like us don't count. We can scowl at a package of multi or syn gut, and have it pop before it ever goes into the frame.

RIP Control is a good string for a certain segment of the playing population, and it lasts pretty well when you string it straight up. It would get eaten alive in a hybrid though.

I did however warn you that you wouldn't like it, and that it wouldn't give you the results you were looking for, but you were a doubting Craig and didn't listen.

J

Automatix
03-08-2008, 06:50 AM
Great stuff J... I would only consider adding to the jumbled thoughts where you write about the Head RIP Control, something about trying really soft 3rd generation polys like Topspin Cyber Power at lower tension...

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 06:53 AM
^^ I have never played it, so I don't talk about stuff I don't know about :)

In life I have found that to be a good way to avoid looking like an ***.

:)

J

iplaybetter
03-08-2008, 06:55 AM
i think cheep string is actualy underratd, my coach used tornament nylon on tour

Automatix
03-08-2008, 07:01 AM
^^ I have never played it, so I don't talk about stuff I don't know about :)

In life I have found that to be a good way to avoid looking like an ***.

:)

J

A golden thought indeed! :)

BounceHitBounceHit
03-08-2008, 07:11 AM
Guys like us don't count. We can scowl at a package of multi or syn gut, and have it pop before it ever goes into the frame.

RIP Control is a good string for a certain segment of the playing population, and it lasts pretty well when you string it straight up. It would get eaten alive in a hybrid though.

I did however warn you that you wouldn't like it, and that it wouldn't give you the results you were looking for, but you were a doubting Craig and didn't listen.

J

True, so true! ;)

In all fairness, you DID tell me I wouldn't like it. I was told by an 'authority' (uh-hum!) that it is in fact the SAME STRING as Isospeed Pro. It is not.

CC

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 07:37 AM
True, so true! ;)

In all fairness, you DID tell me I wouldn't like it. I was told by an 'authority' (uh-hum!) that it is in fact the SAME STRING as Isospeed Pro. It is not.

CC

Have you tried a Prince Recoil/Klip Legend blend yet?

I am dying to know how it will play. I think it would be sick.

My curiosity may get the better of me, and I might just have to fire up a couple of frames to see how it plays.

J

Azzurri
03-08-2008, 08:33 AM
Jolly...thanks for another great guide!

Your advice on the same stringer and same machine is spot on. I have been stringing for myself (Klippermate) since last Summer. In January, I ordered a set of racquets from TW and had them string it. The tension was the same, but they felt tighter and more stiff than mine. I use a drop-weight and TW probably uses an expensive electric stringer, so it made sense to me when you mentioned the different feel you get from different string machines.

I liked the softer feel I got from my stringer. So I will continue to string for myself.

BigApple
03-08-2008, 08:37 AM
Hey J,

Great Review!

You know what the funny thing is?

A gut/poly hybrid will last about 4 hrs of hard hitting, with the poly breaking first! Then a multi/poly hybrid will snap cleanly in the mains in about 30 mins of hitting.

Gut is cheaper than most multis in the long run, it lasts longer, and has a longer, more playable life.

-BA

nickb
03-08-2008, 08:51 AM
Hey J,

Great Review!

You know what the funny thing is?

A gut/poly hybrid will last about 4 hrs of hard hitting, with the poly breaking first! Then a multi/poly hybrid will snap cleanly in the mains in about 30 mins of hitting.

Gut is cheaper than most multis in the long run, it lasts longer, and has a longer, more playable life.

-BA

Really the poly breaks first?...I have used gut mains, syngut/poly crosses and never ever broken a cross..its always the gut that breaks.

Nick

Babb
03-08-2008, 11:09 AM
i think cheep string is actualy underratd, my coach used tornament nylon on tour
That's true. More expensive string IS better, but most people convince themselves that they can tell a difference even though they can't.

I can only tell a big difference between polyesters, multifilaments, and synthetic guts. Any more specific than comparing different types of string and my observations aren't so reliable.

BigApple
03-08-2008, 11:10 AM
Hey Nick,

I had VS 16/Timo 18 at 62/65 pounds. Don't know if it was the higher tension on the poly or the thin gauge, but I thought the thin poly would saw through the mains even faster!

With a multi/poly hybrid, the multi is fully trashed while the poly is untouched.

I'm now getting some decent life out of my VS gut/BB ALU Power hybrid. At lower tensions, the strings broke even faster than at a higher tension! At higher tensions the strings locked into place and prevented any excess moving that lower tensions gave. Usually my strings break faster with higher tensions, but not this time.

I'm tired of switching strings and need to settle on something fast before outdoor season starts!

-BA

racquet_jedi
03-08-2008, 11:20 AM
...Continued from above.

Next topic.

Restringing.

If your strings break, they need to be restrung.

If you are not a string breaker, and are using synthetic, or natural gut, or a multifiliment. The general rule of thumb is to restring as many times per year as you play per week. If you live in a cold winter area, and don't play over the winter, then make sure you have a nice fresh stringjob for the beginning of your season, and then restring accordingly during the season.

If you are not a string breaker and are using Polyester, then as soon as the strings stop sliding back into place, and need to be straightened between points, you should restring.

If you are not a string breaker, and you are using Kevlar, restring at once, with something that is not Kevlar, then follow the guidelines for your new string.

Most people don't realize that string performance is going downhill until it is way too late. Because you play with the racquet every day, you don't notice the gradual decline in string performace. It is like if you bought two identical dark navy blue t-shirts. If you put one in your dresser and left it there, and wore and washed the other one every day for two months. The one you were wearing every day would fade, but you wouldn't notice until it became really pronounced because it happened slightly every day. But when you went back to your dresser and pulled out the brand new one, holding it up next to the one you have been wearing every day and you would immediately see the difference.

Only difference with strings is that you don't have a Wife/Mother/Girlfriend to say "When are you going to throw that ratty old t-shirt out?"

How tight to string?

The reccomended tension range on the racquet is there for a reason, and is a good place to start, in fact, right in the middle of it is good. But it is just that, a reccomendation, feel free to go higher or lower than the range if that is what you feel you need. With Polyester strings, I would start out 10% lower than you would with a syngut, and take it from there. You may end up higher or lower from there, but it as most things with string is a process of experimentation.

When looking for your tension, you are going after two things, and depending on how serious of a player you are, you are going to choose one over the other, to be your primary focus.

Depth, yes, I know, broken record, dead horse. Depth, is key, so important words cannot begin to describe it. Hitting deep is to tennis as eating is to living. You need to find a tension that allows you to take a nice smooth even swing at the ball, and have it land deep. Beyond the service line, preferably in the back 1/3 of the court. It should not take effort to hit deep, you should be able to swing easily, and smoothly, and have the ball land in the back 1/3 of the court. String tighter to shorten up your ball, string looser to get it deeper.

Feel, the second thing, some people like the way a firm stringbed feels, some people like the way a soft stringbed feels. Stiff stringbeds, tight stringing etc, are harder on people with arm injuries so that is a consideration aswell. Feel also has a lot to do with targeting, and accuracy, especially volleying. Most feel that stringing tighter helps with this, but I feel having something that you feel comfortable with will serve you better, and give you better accuracy and control than just randomly stringing tighter.

Do you play for fun, and want your racquet to feel good, or do you play because you want to play your best tennis. That will sort out weather you prioritize feel or depth.

Be certain that if you are hitting the ball long, that the problem is not you. There is a difference between driving the ball long, and not hitting a good stroke, and having the ball land when it runs out of steam and drops to the ground. If your balls are floating long at a blistering 7mph, your setup doesn't have too much power, you don't need to string tighter, you need to put that Amex card away, and make your way to the practice courts.

Different racquets, different tensions, same number on the stringing machine

If you string a 90" frame at 60lbs, and a 115" frame at 60lbs, the 90" frame will be strung tighter. The longer the strings, the more there is to stretch and the looser it will become. Kind of like taking a shoelace and a 30' rope and tying them to a fixture. It doesn't take much to pull the shoestring taut, but you need to pull pretty hard on the rope to make it taut.

Same Racquet, Same number on the stringing machine, different machine, different tension.

All stringing machines string slightly differently, some string vastly differently. A high end constant pull electric machine will string much tighter than a low end lockout machine. Keep you racquets going back to the same machine, if you want the same tension every time. Different people stringing on the same machine set at the same tension will give you different stringbed stiffnesses, not that either would be a bad stringer, but some people string looser, and some tighter. So if you are picky, same person, same machine.

On Hybrids

Hybrids are when you use a different string in the main and the cross, this started for durability reasons, as players would break strings often, and need a more durable string. The durable string was harsh feeling and low powered, so since the mains normally broke players would put a durable string in the main, and a soft string in the cross to regain some of their feel and power. This is the case with most kevlar or Poly blends today. You use Kevlar or Poly as the main string (The long ones that go from the head to the throat) and syn gut, gut, or a multi, as the cross string (The other ones that are not the mains ;))

Also players hybrid gut putting the gut strings in the mains, and a cheaper synthetic in the cross so that they get most of the benefits of playing gut, but don't have to pay for a full set.

Lately people have been putting a gut or multi main, with a poly cross, going for the power and feel of the softer string, and the spin characteristics of the poly. This is an expensive proposition for most as this is probably the least durable blend that one can have.

A few jumbled together closing thoughts.

If you break syn gut, and multis, but are not ready for poly/kevlar because you either don't like the feel and stiffness, or don't have the batspeed, or have arm troubles. Try Head RIP control. It is a very durable synthetic with ribbon construction. Softer than poly/kevlar, and lasts a good long time for most players.

If you like the idea of polyester with the added spin, and constant stringbed without having to adjust the strings, but you don't have the batspeed to really make it sing, (If you are currently playing poly and leaving it in for a month, then this is you), or if you like the idea of something that performs in a similar manner, but is softer feeling and more powerful. Try Prince Recoil. I was very impressed with it, and think it will help a large number of players. On the downside, it is pretty expensive.

Lastly, if you want to try something, try it. Stringing is about experimentation, and don't let another person, or this handy dandy guide stop you. If you have only been playing a year, but you want to know what Luxilon feels like, then hey, give it a shot, you won't play your best tennis with it, but at least you will know what it is like. Just keep in mind the things I have written, and understand the things you are trying for fun, and the things you are trying to make you play better. Keep your health in mind above all else.

J

Should I let my dad, who pays for a lot of stuff and thinks that all tennis equipment is exactly the same, stop me???:wink:

Great guide J011y!

Richie Rich
03-08-2008, 01:24 PM
general rule for poly - it's completely dead by 20 hrs of hitting for most people so restringing is necessary. don't keep poly in when it's dead.

iplaybetter
03-08-2008, 02:00 PM
That's true. More expensive string IS better, but most people convince themselves that they can tell a difference even though they can't.

I can only tell a big difference between polyesters, multifilaments, and synthetic guts. Any more specific than comparing different types of string and my observations aren't so reliable.

i do like x-1 but tecnifibre syn gut is raly solid and super cheep
amd in all honesty most off us dont need much better

jaykay
03-08-2008, 02:18 PM
Excellent thread, Jo11y. AGAIN!

Good job. And thank you.

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 02:29 PM
Really the poly breaks first?...I have used gut mains, syngut/poly crosses and never ever broken a cross..its always the gut that breaks.

Nick

Poly breaks first in a VS/ALU blend with poly mains and gut crosses.

J

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 02:30 PM
Should I let my dad, who pays for a lot of stuff and thinks that all tennis equipment is exactly the same, stop me???:wink:

Great guide J011y!

Absolutely not, go get yourself a job, and continue on.

J

J011yroger
03-08-2008, 02:32 PM
general rule for poly - it's completely dead by 20 hrs of hitting for most people so restringing is necessary. don't keep poly in when it's dead.

You can't really put a timer on it, that is why I like the grab a main and pull it out of position, let go, and see how fast it boings back into position test.

I mean, I can break ALU in under 2 hours, while there are people who could play with it for 20+ and not even put a hint of a notch in it.

J

BigApple
03-08-2008, 03:58 PM
You can't really put a timer on it, that is why I like the grab a main and pull it out of position, let go, and see how fast it boings back into position test.

I mean, I can break ALU in under 2 hours, while there are people who could play with it for 20+ and not even put a hint of a notch in it.

J

Exactly! Once you notice poly's going out of place, it's pretty much dead.

Also, it depends how hard you knock. The harder you knock the faster poly goes dead. Especially the Luxilon line.

Some people are more sensitive to string changes. Even some good players will not notice if their strings are dead or not. For recreational players, I would change a poly stringjob once a month at the least to prevent any injuries, poly can be pretty rough once it goes dead.

I cannot stand poly after 3-4 hrs, but it's pretty much burnt out by then.

-BA

Richie Rich
03-08-2008, 04:09 PM
You can't really put a timer on it, that is why I like the grab a main and pull it out of position, let go, and see how fast it boings back into position test.

I mean, I can break ALU in under 2 hours, while there are people who could play with it for 20+ and not even put a hint of a notch in it.

J

in my experience with many poly's, you can put a timer on them. most (if not all) are done by 20 hours. of course you can break poly's before 20 hours but for those who don't it's probably a time limit. i play with an 18x20 frame and i don't break poly. but i know that it feels really tired and dead at around 20 hours.

i only say that because i know people who keep luxilon in their frames for 6 months. they probably shouldn't be using it but that's besides the point. if you are going ti use poly you have to realize the string is going to lose resiliency pretty quickly.

Richie Rich
03-08-2008, 04:11 PM
Also, it depends how hard you knock. The harder you knock the faster poly goes dead. Especially the Luxilon line.

fair enough but if you hit a decently heavy ball you can expect, on average, max 20 hours of playability. for some people this is 3 days, for others it's a month. that's why i specified hours, not days

BigApple
03-08-2008, 06:29 PM
fair enough but if you hit a decently heavy ball you can expect, on average, max 20 hours of playability. for some people this is 3 days, for others it's a month. that's why i specified hours, not days

It depends truly on what poly your using. For most players I string for, copolys like Topspin Cyberflash and Pro Supex Big Ace play well for longer than any Luxilon, or 1st gen poly.

Most copoly's will have a longer playable life than polys.

-BA

bumblebee
03-08-2008, 07:02 PM
hey, is BDE gut good?
and if so, is it better as hybrid crosses, mains, or full?

Richie Rich
03-09-2008, 11:22 AM
It depends truly on what poly your using. For most players I string for, copolys like Topspin Cyberflash and Pro Supex Big Ace play well for longer than any Luxilon, or 1st gen poly.

Most copoly's will have a longer playable life than polys.

-BA

true. i had polymono in my racquet for 5 hours before i cut it out. i can get 20 hours out of cyberflash or SPPP with no problem before i notice the dead feeling.

Kevo
03-09-2008, 04:18 PM
You can't really put a timer on it, that is why I like the grab a main and pull it out of position, let go, and see how fast it boings back into position test.

I mean, I can break ALU in under 2 hours, while there are people who could play with it for 20+ and not even put a hint of a notch in it.

J

Well, that means that you are probably hitting with higher caliber players. I could probably make a set of syn gut last for months hitting against some of my older team mates that only play doubles. If I play a few sets of singles against another good player then they probably won't last more than a set.

I would love to find some guys around here that could bang the ball well enough to bust ALU in a couple of hours. Just don't know very many. I guess I could crank the ball machine up as high as possible and go to town on that, but it's not really the same thing. :-)

LanEvo
03-09-2008, 08:31 PM
how long does a stringjob of poly last on a racquet? before it goes dead

J011yroger
03-09-2008, 08:34 PM
It depends truly on what poly your using. For most players I string for, copolys like Topspin Cyberflash and Pro Supex Big Ace play well for longer than any Luxilon, or 1st gen poly.

Most copoly's will have a longer playable life than polys.

-BA

Hey, just noticed your username! Do you live in NY?

What lvl player?

Lets get a hit in!

J

saram
03-09-2008, 08:50 PM
how long does a stringjob of poly last on a racquet? before it goes dead

For me, three sets of singles or about 6-8 sets of doubles, and then I am cutting them out. But, keep in mind that it truly depends on each player, strokes, etc. I string for some people and it will last them a month.

Noveson
03-09-2008, 08:51 PM
Hey Jolly, what are some alternatives to Prince Recoil? I mean $25? Come on.

My redcode alternates between breaking within a week, or not at all, and I tried to go synthetic, but the change in the trajectory coming of the racquet was just killing me. Any suggestions?

J011yroger
03-09-2008, 09:19 PM
Hey Jolly, what are some alternatives to Prince Recoil? I mean $25? Come on.

My redcode alternates between breaking within a week, or not at all, and I tried to go synthetic, but the change in the trajectory coming of the racquet was just killing me. Any suggestions?

Have you tried a Redcode/NRG2 blend?

I actually liked the way ALU/NRG2 played, better than the way ALU/VS played.

J

Pro_Tour_630
03-10-2008, 06:22 AM
I actually liked the way ALU/NRG2 played, better than the way ALU/VS played.

J
another indication NRG2 is better than VS:)

or Multis are better than Natural Gut:)

BigApple
03-10-2008, 07:47 AM
Hey, just noticed your username! Do you live in NY?

What lvl player?

Lets get a hit in!

J

Hey Jo11y,

I used to be a 5.5 player, but now I'm about a 5.0 player now.

I recently sprained my wrist, and was out for three months. I'm desperately trying to get back where I was but my wrist has never been the same! I'm almost fully healed now, but my I get scared to tear my wrist again. Its all in my mind but I'm still afraid to serve or hit 100%.

I live in Tonoto right now, but I come down to NY alot. Maybe we can get a hit during the outdoor season.

Whereabouts do you live in NY?

-BA

Nellie
03-10-2008, 08:34 AM
Jolly - How long does that Recoil last? I assume it does not break but would lose tension. I am trying to see if it is remotely worth the cost.

joe1987
03-10-2008, 08:49 AM
Good stuff Jolly. Keep it up.

J011yroger
03-10-2008, 01:45 PM
Hey Jo11y,

I used to be a 5.5 player, but now I'm about a 5.0 player now.

I recently sprained my wrist, and was out for three months. I'm desperately trying to get back where I was but my wrist has never been the same! I'm almost fully healed now, but my I get scared to tear my wrist again. Its all in my mind but I'm still afraid to serve or hit 100%.

I live in Tonoto right now, but I come down to NY alot. Maybe we can get a hit during the outdoor season.

Whereabouts do you live in NY?

-BA

Long island, but will travel.

I sprained my wrist and missed 6 months of tourneys, will never be 100% again, but I am 85% recovered now. Last things to come back for me are comming over FH returns against big servers, and clobbering eye high balls. So I know where you are comming from. When I hurt it originally at work I had to reach over the steering wheels and start cars with my left hand because it hurt too much to turn the key with my right.

Definately shoot me an e-mail when you are in town. I am always looking for an excuse to go somewhere and hit around.

J

J011yroger
03-10-2008, 01:46 PM
another indication NRG2 is better than VS:)

or Multis are better than Natural Gut:)

Only problem was that the NRG2 lasted 1 hour, and the VS lasted 2 :)

If I was playing straight up I would prefer the full gut job, but for some reason I really liked the NRG2 blend.

J

J011yroger
03-10-2008, 01:47 PM
Jolly - How long does that Recoil last? I assume it does not break but would lose tension. I am trying to see if it is remotely worth the cost.

I dunno, I only fiddled with it for 20 mins or so of light hitting. I am thinking of stringing up a gut/recoil blend because I am dying to know how it would play.

J

Pro_Tour_630
03-10-2008, 04:09 PM
Only problem was that the NRG2 lasted 1 hour, and the VS lasted 2 :)

If I was playing straight up I would prefer the full gut job, but for some reason I really liked the NRG2 blend.

J
so for the price per 1/2 set of NRG you are paying three times more for the 1/2 set of VS
So NRG is more economical since you can string more often for less? :) providing you are stringing your own which I assume you are

you do break ALU in under 2 hours anyway so.....
I can break ALU in under 2 hours,

Dyne
03-10-2008, 06:01 PM
Thanks for the guide. I'm about to purchase a new racquet and needed to know what strings to get for it and this definitely helped. I'm on a budget so I can't test strings as you've said, but at least I have an idea of what I want to use now.

And if not so much trouble, could someone give me a tip on strings for someone who:

produce my own spin and power, but needs a bit more control? And on a budget, of course; so the more durable the better. I'm looking into a Hybrid blend so yeah. Also have a slight tennis elbow catching me, but hopefully I can tame it. I'll probably be getting a Prince Speedport White [Standard].

J011yroger
03-10-2008, 07:26 PM
so for the price per 1/2 set of NRG you are paying three times more for the 1/2 set of VS
So NRG is more economical since you can string more often for less? :) providing you are stringing your own which I assume you are

you do break ALU in under 2 hours anyway so.....

VS/ALU lasts as long as Full ALU, with the ALU mains breaking.

NRG is not more economical since you have to pay for the ALU each time aswell.

And no, I don't string for myself, I have neither the time, nor the inclination. And if I did have the time, my time is worth more than I pay to have my bats strung.

J

J011yroger
03-10-2008, 07:27 PM
Thanks for the guide. I'm about to purchase a new racquet and needed to know what strings to get for it and this definitely helped. I'm on a budget so I can't test strings as you've said, but at least I have an idea of what I want to use now.

And if not so much trouble, could someone give me a tip on strings for someone who:

produce my own spin and power, but needs a bit more control? And on a budget, of course; so the more durable the better. I'm looking into a Hybrid blend so yeah. Also have a slight tennis elbow catching me, but hopefully I can tame it. I'll probably be getting a Prince Speedport White [Standard].

What have you played with in the past, and what did you like/dislike about it.

J

Pro_Tour_630
03-10-2008, 08:28 PM
VS/ALU lasts as long as Full ALU, with the ALU mains breaking.

NRG is not more economical since you have to pay for the ALU each time aswell.

And no, I don't string for myself, I have neither the time, nor the inclination. And if I did have the time, my time is worth more than I pay to have my bats strung.

J

I dunno J you are breaking ALU mains and VS in under two hours , NGR crosses is more economical IMO and in my case. You got all these different tensions, is NRG that much off when you have 16 frames strung differently laying around that it is unplayable after the first hour?, that it makes a huge difference between the first and the second hour of play?

can I be your stringer, you are a good catch:) where is thomas martinez?

now I appreciate more your time posting here, you have almost 4000K posts in one year, you are waisting around $15,000 in my estimation ( based upon you not wanting to string, time and money it costs to string, your time here roughly based on # posts per year) talking to us gear spec nerd heads, that alone could have paid for all your tennis gear this year.

anyway does not matter if it is more economical, $ is not a factor, NRG crosses plays better for the first hour, you have so many frames and so many different tensions not sure about the next hour of play were you really need VS in cross instead, that is all, to each his own

I know you usually string the ALU mains around 58 what about the cross's? VS and NRG

Dyne
03-10-2008, 08:42 PM
What have you played with in the past, and what did you like/dislike about it.

J

This is actually the first time I've payed attention to strings [since I'm throwing ~$200 for a new racquet]. The only strings I know for fact that I've played with was Lightning XX 16g.

I liked the string except I thought it had a bit too much power and was lacking durability. My cousin broke his set within a few weeks of hitting... averaging ~10 hours a week.

I'm more of a power-topspin hitter at baseline, but I'm primarily an all-arounder -- serve and volleying 70% of the time.

Pro_Tour_630
03-10-2008, 09:49 PM
J, Ok I had to read some of your old posts from last year, I get it somewhat, VS is breaking your ALU mains faster (under two hours) Many find that hard to believe but I believe you, while NRG is breaking or at least shearing after the first hour.

Have you tried X-one Bisphase cross and were your stringers pre-stretching NGR?

J011yroger
03-11-2008, 02:42 AM
I dunno J you are breaking ALU mains and VS in under two hours , NGR crosses is more economical IMO and in my case. You got all these different tensions, is NRG that much off when you have 16 frames strung differently laying around that it is unplayable after the first hour?, that it makes a huge difference between the first and the second hour of play?

can I be your stringer, you are a good catch:) where is thomas martinez?

now I appreciate more your time posting here, you have almost 4000K posts in one year, you are waisting around $15,000 in my estimation ( based upon you not wanting to string, time and money it costs to string, your time here roughly based on # posts per year) talking to us gear spec nerd heads, that alone could have paid for all your tennis gear this year.

anyway does not matter if it is more economical, $ is not a factor, NRG crosses plays better for the first hour, you have so many frames and so many different tensions not sure about the next hour of play were you really need VS in cross instead, that is all, to each his own

I know you usually string the ALU mains around 58 what about the cross's? VS and NRG

Currently I just play ALU Straight up, and have no desire to change.

Just posting my findings when I tried the hybrids before switching to the ALU fulltime so that others might benefit from it.

When I played the blends I strung the crosses two pounds tighter than the ALU mains, so 56/58, 58/60, 60/62, 62/64 whatever.

I let the frames sit for at least three days after being strung, to get the initial tension loss out of the way, and then it doesn't really matter how long they sit in my bag before I play them the tension doesn't seem to change very much as long as the frames stay in a good temperature, and I don't play them.

When I played a full multi job, (Laserfibre Supernatural Gut 16) I was much more sensitive to tension loss, but with the poly I can't tell as much since the stringbed is so numb. I can still tell the difference between my two stringers, but either is playable just fine.

I don't play different tensions anymore, I just string them all the same and deal with it. Keeping track of 6 different tensions was more trouble than it was worth, and I kept running out of 58s and 60s :)

Been playing the Ks at 58 for two months now, and really am not liking it, so going to play at 60 for a month and see if that is better or I need to go to 62.

58 was perfect on the N90s but it is too loose for the K90s.

As far as money, I get my frames strung very reasonably, in fact everything I buy is very reasonably priced. And seriously, what I pay to have my frames strung (On a $5,000 machine which I wouldn't buy if I were to string myself) is less than my time is worth. Instead of stringing my own racquets for an hour, I would be better off paying someone to string my frames, and giving a lesson.

Tom Martinez is doing fine, he did all the custom work on my frames.

J

J011yroger
03-11-2008, 02:45 AM
This is actually the first time I've payed attention to strings [since I'm throwing ~$200 for a new racquet]. The only strings I know for fact that I've played with was Lightning XX 16g.

I liked the string except I thought it had a bit too much power and was lacking durability. My cousin broke his set within a few weeks of hitting... averaging ~10 hours a week.

I'm more of a power-topspin hitter at baseline, but I'm primarily an all-arounder -- serve and volleying 70% of the time.

Try a high end multi, like NRG2, or NXT Tour (Basically the same string) if you want something crisper, X1, if you want something with more pop, Prince Premier.

String it a hair tighter than the Lightning, and see how the durability is.

J

J011yroger
03-11-2008, 02:48 AM
J, Ok I had to read some of your old posts from last year, I get it somewhat, VS is breaking your ALU mains faster (under two hours) Many find that hard to believe but I believe you, while NRG is breaking or at least shearing after the first hour.

Have you tried X-one Bisphase cross and were your stringers pre-stretching NGR?

Never sheared a string in my life, VS saws through the ALU mains, breaking them in the sweetspot just as fast as a full ALU job (Maybe faster). NRG frays and snaps in the sweetspot leaving the ALU mains unscathed.

J

Pro_Tour_630
03-11-2008, 04:36 AM
Currently I just play ALU Straight up, and have no desire to change.

Just posting my findings when I tried the hybrids before switching to the ALU fulltime so that others might benefit from it.


When I played a full multi job, (Laserfibre Supernatural Gut 16) I was much more sensitive to tension loss, but with the poly I can't tell as much since the stringbed is so numb. I can still tell the difference between my two stringers, but either is playable just fine.

Been playing the Ks at 58 for two months now, and really am not liking it, so going to play at 60 for a month and see if that is better or I need to go to 62.

58 was perfect on the N90s but it is too loose for the K90s.


Tom Martinez is doing fine, he did all the custom work on my frames.

J

J, you are not worried about injuring your arm/shoulder using Full Poly in a K90 and you are thinking of going higher in tension? You were out for six years because of your arm. I would give anything to have my arm back like it was when I was 25.

What does Tom say about VS cross sawing into the ALU rough mains in under 2 hours?

Loco4Tennis
03-11-2008, 05:14 AM
has anyone ever tried using poly string below 53lbs, either crosses or mains
i wonder if you notised any difference in the tension

0d1n
03-11-2008, 05:20 AM
so for the price per 1/2 set of NRG you are paying three times more for the 1/2 set of VS
So NRG is more economical since you can string more often for less? :) providing you are stringing your own which I assume you are

you do break ALU in under 2 hours anyway so.....

But stringing twice as often will fatigue your frames much faster also. And rackets are expensive (and if you use an older model ... like you and I do...they can be pretty hard to find as well).

Pro_Tour_630
03-11-2008, 07:29 AM
But stringing twice as often will fatigue your frames much faster also. And rackets are expensive (and if you use an older model ... like you and I do...they can be pretty hard to find as well).

correct, but I want my frames to fatigue:confused: they feel more softer and more flexible but that may not apply to everyone.

J011yroger
03-11-2008, 01:44 PM
J, you are not worried about injuring your arm/shoulder using Full Poly in a K90 and you are thinking of going higher in tension? You were out for six years because of your arm. I would give anything to have my arm back like it was when I was 25.

What does Tom say about VS cross sawing into the ALU rough mains in under 2 hours?

Not really. Can't go around worrying about every little thing.

Tom doesn't string for me, he just does the frames.

Nothing unusual about the durability that piques my curiosity. That is just how it is.

J

kirbster123
03-11-2008, 02:55 PM
J, you are not worried about injuring your arm/shoulder using Full Poly in a K90 and you are thinking of going higher in tension? You were out for six years because of your arm. I would give anything to have my arm back like it was when I was 25.

What does Tom say about VS cross sawing into the ALU rough mains in under 2 hours?

What helps also is Jo11y is using such heavy frames!

I'm currently using a Aerogel 300, 12.8 ounces with full ALU Power at 60. My arm is feeling alot better. When I used the M-fil 400 strung with a multifilament, I started to get tennis elbow! A combination of the stiffness and low weight really did it for me. I've come to realize that a heavier frame really helps to reduce harmful vibrations.

Pro_Tour_630
03-11-2008, 04:59 PM
What helps also is Jo11y is using such heavy frames!

I'm currently using a Aerogel 300, 12.8 ounces with full ALU Power at 60. My arm is feeling alot better. When I used the M-fil 400 strung with a multifilament, I started to get tennis elbow! A combination of the stiffness and low weight really did it for me. I've come to realize that a heavier frame really helps to reduce harmful vibrations.
you are correct more flexible and more HL frames for me as well was helpful, you see Polys added weight to the hoop of my frame as well which made noticeably more HH, you really have to be young, very fit with tons of bat speed to get away with it


Not really. Can't go around worrying about every little thing.

Tom doesn't string for me, he just does the frames.

Nothing unusual about the durability that piques my curiosity. That is just how it is.

J
Please keep us posted how it turns out.

J011yroger
03-11-2008, 08:32 PM
you really have to be young, very fit with tons of bat speed to get away with it

I have all that stuff covered, now if only I was fast, smart, and consistient then I could win something.

J

iplaybetter
03-12-2008, 04:42 AM
Try a high end multi, like NRG2, or NXT Tour (Basically the same string) if you want something crisper, X1, if you want something with more pop, Prince Premier.

String it a hair tighter than the Lightning, and see how the durability is.

J

nxt tour is actually x-1 tecnifibre makes it for wilson

nickb
03-12-2008, 04:48 AM
nxt tour is actually x-1 tecnifibre makes it for wilson

X-1 and NXT Tour look and play completely different...

YULitle
03-12-2008, 05:11 AM
X-1 and NXT Tour look and play completely different...

I don't think NXT = X1, but I know the NXT is created by Tecnifibre. The guy who told me works for Tecnifibre and said something to the affect of "we don't give them our top quality stuff." Meaning that that they sell Wilson their cheaper multi to package as NXT.

My question, and I hope someone can answer this, is if Tecnifibre makes Wilson's NXT, and Babolat makes their natural gut, what else of Wilson's isn't made by Wilson?

nickb
03-12-2008, 05:15 AM
Yeah NXT is 100% not X-1....I wonder which Tecnifibre string is the same as wilson nxt...any ideas?

Im sure many of wilsons strings are made for them by other companies...

Nick

iplaybetter
03-12-2008, 05:46 AM
Yeah NXT is 100% not X-1....I wonder which Tecnifibre string is the same as wilson nxt...any ideas?

Im sure many of wilsons strings are made for them by other companies...

Nick

i am just passing on what i have been told, like the x-1 but haven't used the nxt in a while

Katlion
03-12-2008, 05:50 AM
Hey, thanks dude... how long did it take you to type all of this??

nickb
03-12-2008, 06:36 AM
i am just passing on what i have been told, like the x-1 but haven't used the nxt in a while

If you look at NXT Tour and X-1 they look very different just in appearance...

Nick

Pro_Tour_630
03-12-2008, 06:40 AM
Try a high end multi, like NRG2, or NXT Tour (Basically the same string)

I don't think NXT = X1, but I know the NXT is created by Tecnifibre. The guy who told me works for Tecnifibre and said something to the affect of "we don't give them our top quality stuff." Meaning that that they sell Wilson their cheaper multi to package as NXT.
your answer should be NXT is not really NRG, they are different some may like NXT for some reason while some may like NGR for another reason. For one look at the gauges of their counter parts they are not the same.

MaOira
03-12-2008, 08:55 AM
Hey question about Hybrids.

I keep reading that in a poly/gut or multi hyprid string string the poly a couple pounds less than the gut or multi cross.

What about in a multi or gut/syn hybrid? Do you string the same way, or the same tension all around?

iplaybetter
03-12-2008, 09:09 AM
If you look at NXT Tour and X-1 they look very different just in appearance...

Nick
i dont think so

nickb
03-12-2008, 11:03 AM
i dont think so

OK they are the same string. :roll:

J011yroger
03-12-2008, 01:45 PM
nxt tour is actually x-1 tecnifibre makes it for wilson

NXT is more similar to NRG2 than to X1

J

J011yroger
03-12-2008, 01:46 PM
Hey, thanks dude... how long did it take you to type all of this??

Ummm, more than an hour, less than two?

J

Dyne
03-12-2008, 07:41 PM
Try a high end multi, like NRG2, or NXT Tour (Basically the same string) if you want something crisper, X1, if you want something with more pop, Prince Premier.

String it a hair tighter than the Lightning, and see how the durability is.

J

Cool. And are you suggesting a full setup like that? I was looking at your guide and Multis seem really nice. I'll go with that and work my way tinkering around. Thanks.

sruckauf
03-12-2008, 07:45 PM
NXT:
http://www.stringforum.net/gallery.php?show=58

X-One Biphase
http://www.stringforum.net/gallery.php?show=54

J011yroger
03-13-2008, 03:17 AM
Cool. And are you suggesting a full setup like that? I was looking at your guide and Multis seem really nice. I'll go with that and work my way tinkering around. Thanks.

Ya, they play pretty nicely, I think just what the doctor ordered for you.

J

J011yroger
03-13-2008, 03:18 AM
NXT:
http://www.stringforum.net/gallery.php?show=58

X-One Biphase
http://www.stringforum.net/gallery.php?show=54

Talking about NXT Tour, not NXT. They are very different strings.

J

iplaybetter
03-13-2008, 04:53 AM
If you look at NXT Tour and X-1 they look very different just in appearance...

Nick

i thought they had a similar pale white thingy count but i would need to see a piece of each next to the other

sruckauf
03-13-2008, 05:59 AM
Talking about NXT Tour, not NXT. They are very different strings.

J

DOH! My bad.

CAM178
03-13-2008, 06:27 AM
I'm sure that all reading know much more than I do about strings, so here's my query: should I change from PSG Dura crosses to a multifilament? I see Jolly's multifilament write-up, & am curious if this is how I should go. The PSG obviously doesn't last me all that long.

Along with that, what multi would you guys recommend?

Of side note, here's something that I just learned from my stringer: black strings are softer than their lighter counterparts. I decided to try PSG Dura in black, and it was a big difference between black and my normal lime green choice. My stringer explained to me that this is something that he's run into with many different strings. Apparently the black dye softens the string. In short, if you like a string but it might be a bit too stiff for you, see if it's offered in black.

SlapShot
03-13-2008, 06:31 AM
Of side note, here's something that I jut learned from my stringer: black strings are softer than their lighter counterparts. I decided to try PSG Dura in black, and it was a big difference between black and my normal lime green choice. My stringer explained to me that this is something that he's run into with many different strings. Apparently the black dye softens the string. In short, if you like a string but it might be a bit too stiff for you, see if it's offered in black.

That's interesting.

I've noticed that POSG in gold is softer than POSG in white - haven't tried with PSGD.

ohplease
03-13-2008, 06:39 AM
I'm sure that all reading know much more than I do about strings, so here's my query: should I change from PSG Dura crosses to a multifilament? I see Jolly's multifilament write-up, & am curious if this is how I should go. The PSG obviously doesn't last me all that long.

Along with that, what multi would you guys recommend?

Of side note, here's something that I jut learned from my stringer: black strings are softer than their lighter counterparts. I decided to try PSG Dura in black, and it was a big difference between black and my normal lime green choice. My stringer explained to me that this is something that he's run into with many different strings. Apparently the black dye softens the string. In short, if you like a string but it might be a bit too stiff for you, see if it's offered in black.

If you're breaking crosses, going from a solid core like PSGD to a multi just makes your problem worse. I'm betting you're using poly in the mains?

If so, you're likely better served using one of the newer, softer, thiner copolys all around and stringing like many of the pros do, with a few pounds less on the crosses. And lower tension, in general. There's an easily found story about Tim Henman working with Priority One to get more control AND a larger sweetspot by moving from more lively strings at a higher tension to less lively strings at a lower tension. I've found that to ring true in my own experiences as well, at least in larger headed (say, 100 sq in), open patterned frames.

Arthur
03-13-2008, 10:06 AM
. . . .

The thinner the string, the more bite you get on a ball, generating more topspin with the same stroke. For some people this will allow them to swing harder and keep the ball in play, for others it will result in them hitting too much topspin and not having enough carry on their ball, otherwise known as not having enough penetration, or not piercing the court. You want your ball forcing your opponent back, not landing and sitting up for him to hit.

. . . .

If you find that your ball is landing short with the thinner gague string, first try to reclaim your depth by string tension before reverting back to your old thicker gague string.

. . . .



This part is interesting to me, and it's consistent with my experience with string gauge in 18x20 racquets. 16's give me a more solid, penetrating shot. 17's and 18's give me a lighter, spinnier shot (good for the short angle and the "dipper" in doubles hit at the net player's feet, but not good for much else). Until now I've addressed this by using 16's, but it sounds like using 17's strung a little looser might let me have my dipper and my deep drive. (Or maybe I just need to practice flattening out my drives a little more using 17's.)

J011yroger
03-13-2008, 01:26 PM
I'm sure that all reading know much more than I do about strings, so here's my query: should I change from PSG Dura crosses to a multifilament? I see Jolly's multifilament write-up, & am curious if this is how I should go. The PSG obviously doesn't last me all that long.

Along with that, what multi would you guys recommend?

Of side note, here's something that I just learned from my stringer: black strings are softer than their lighter counterparts. I decided to try PSG Dura in black, and it was a big difference between black and my normal lime green choice. My stringer explained to me that this is something that he's run into with many different strings. Apparently the black dye softens the string. In short, if you like a string but it might be a bit too stiff for you, see if it's offered in black.


ALU/NRG2 plays quite nicely. Give it a shot, only a couple bucks difference from your normal. If you like it, then great, if you don't you wasted the monetary value of a turkey sandwich.

J

J011yroger
03-13-2008, 01:30 PM
This part is interesting to me, and it's consistent with my experience with string gauge in 18x20 racquets. 16's give me a more solid, penetrating shot. 17's and 18's give me a lighter, spinnier shot (good for the short angle and the "dipper" in doubles hit at the net player's feet, but not good for much else). Until now I've addressed this by using 16's, but it sounds like using 17's strung a little looser might let me have my dipper and my deep drive. (Or maybe I just need to practice flattening out my drives a little more using 17's.)

I would try the stringing looser ploy. If you have good grooved strokes, why try to adapt them rather than changing equipment and leaving your strokes alone.

This round of stringing I am going up to 60lbs, maybe 62lbs on my K90s because after two months of playing them at 58, I have determined that it doesn't allow me to hit the ball the way I want to.

58 was perfect for the Ncodes, but the Ks need to be tighter.

Obviously I CAN play with them at 58, as I have been doing it for two months. But I have to hit differently than I want to which is causing me some unrest, and resulting in inconsistient, and weaker shots.

J

hyogen
03-15-2008, 12:24 AM
ALU/NRG2 plays quite nicely. Give it a shot, only a couple bucks difference from your normal. If you like it, then great, if you don't you wasted the monetary value of a turkey sandwich.

J

awesome guide. your "ALU/NRG2" means alu in the mains, nrg2 in the crosses right?

i did something very similar and did the almost reverse in my 2nd racquet.

both pure storm tours.

luxilon alu power rough in mains 54lbs, wilson NXT at 56lbs crosses = did not like at all. very bad actually for me.

2nd stick: wilson NXT at 66lbs in mains, luxilon rough at 64lbs in crosses = much better...but not nearly as good as full luxilon at very low tension (very trampoliny feel--when hitting strings against your palm). probably around 50 or lower... I liked the power and spin of that setup the best for some reason.

can you give me some advice here? after all i've been reading i'm beginning to think that multifilaments aren't worth it for me. Natural gut seems to me like the way to go--at least for the MAINS. maybe NXT tour will be good enough in the mains.

J011yroger
03-15-2008, 03:48 AM
How fast are you breaking the above setups?

Edit: Did you use NXT or NXT Tour in your setups that you didn't like? They are quite different strings. The main difference being that NXT sucks and NXT Tour is good :)

J

CAM178
03-15-2008, 04:56 AM
Anybody know what a popular red string is? Recently I went to see the match between UT & FSU, and a lot of the players were playing with a full set of red strings. I was in the stands, so I couldn't see if it was different mains and crosses. I would guess not, though. Not often you see red strings. Any ideas?

J011yroger
03-15-2008, 05:00 AM
Technifibre Red Code.

Lots of college players have deals with Technifibre so it is very popular.

Technifibre will give a preferred player package to anyone who can hit a ball out of their and and over the net without hitting themself in the leg.

And the schools get pretty sick deals from what I hear.

J

Dyne
03-15-2008, 11:50 AM
Well I got my new Speedport Pro White strung up with some NRG2 16s today, but I haven't got to hit with it due to weather. I'm regretting a little bit now, though. I'm afraid I won't be able to generate as much spin due to the tighter string pattern and a 16 gauge string.

I was mainly afraid of 17 gauge breaking too fast so I went for a little thicker. Does the extra bit of thickness really kill spin-potential? I can generate my own, but a little help wouldn't hurt.

hyogen
03-15-2008, 12:24 PM
How fast are you breaking the above setups?

Edit: Did you use NXT or NXT Tour in your setups that you didn't like? They are quite different strings. The main difference being that NXT sucks and NXT Tour is good :)

J

regular nxt. they don't have nxt in the big shops around here. i'll have to try out some NXT tour soon.

I did'nt break up those above setups... I cut the bad setup last night after 40 minutes of hitting...couldn't wait to put in natural gut. lol...maybe this is why you have like 30+ frames ;)

J011yroger
03-15-2008, 05:08 PM
Well I got my new Speedport Pro White strung up with some NRG2 16s today, but I haven't got to hit with it due to weather. I'm regretting a little bit now, though. I'm afraid I won't be able to generate as much spin due to the tighter string pattern and a 16 gauge string.

I was mainly afraid of 17 gauge breaking too fast so I went for a little thicker. Does the extra bit of thickness really kill spin-potential? I can generate my own, but a little help wouldn't hurt.

You will be fine. It is the guy attached to the handle that matters more than what is in the hoop.

J

YULitle
03-15-2008, 05:09 PM
What's this guy gotta do to get a sticky? :D

J011yroger
03-15-2008, 05:19 PM
What's this guy gotta do to get a sticky? :D

I'm tellin ya, not easy being me.

No respect, no respect at all.

J

Babb
03-15-2008, 05:21 PM
I respect you, Jo11y :D

Dyne
03-15-2008, 07:23 PM
You will be fine. It is the guy attached to the handle that matters more than what is in the hoop.

J

Agreed.

I actually got to hit with it today and it felt great. I loved all of my shots. It was very consistent; control, power, and spin were all great. This string, in my opinion, performed better than the Lightning XX I used when I demo'd.

Thanks a bunch for the help.

J011yroger
03-15-2008, 07:44 PM
Agreed.

I actually got to hit with it today and it felt great. I loved all of my shots. It was very consistent; control, power, and spin were all great. This string, in my opinion, performed better than the Lightning XX I used when I demo'd.

Thanks a bunch for the help.

Glad you liked it. I worry about being inaccurate giving out advice to people I have never hit with because I feel bad if I am wrong and they spend their money on something they don't like, especially the kids for whom string is a big investment.

Let me know how long it lasts, and then you can decide if you want to go to the 17 next time, or stick with the 16.

J

CAM178
03-16-2008, 02:13 PM
Technifibre Red Code.
Lots of college players have deals with Technifibre so it is very popular.
Technifibre will give a preferred player package to anyone who can hit a ball out of their and and over the net without hitting themself in the leg.
And the schools get pretty sick deals from what I hear.
J
Ah, thanks. That explains why both schools were playing with it. It looked pretty cool, TBH. Has anybody here hit with it? How does it play?

J011yroger
03-16-2008, 04:57 PM
Ah, thanks. That explains why both schools were playing with it. It looked pretty cool, TBH. Has anybody here hit with it? How does it play?

Search my man, search.

J

toughshot
03-23-2008, 09:45 AM
red code was pretty sick imo

it was softer, held tension, and had decent bite.. you should go try it

Anyone tried TF polyspin? what are your thoughts on it? I tried it with a gosen micro hybrid.

toughshot
03-23-2008, 09:46 AM
btw im interested in a non-stalker way of how jolly hits.. any videos my man?

:]

In)SpiRe
03-23-2008, 09:55 AM
Hey Jolly, just curious as to what you would suggest for me, a hybrid/full job, what strings etc...

I'm a hard hitting baseliner, my forhand is the biggest weapon in my game. I'm not a big string breaker but my strings lose tension, ALOT of tension and faster than the average. I'm not a big topspin guy, nor am I looking for strings that'll give me the biggest spin possible. I come to net to volley often, sometimes doing a little chip and charge and even serve and volley. Looking for a good overall string, preferably something that doesnt loose tension fast, and maintains overall playability for a while. I love poly BTW if that helps, and I can take any stiff strings, BUT i CANNOT stand those mushy strings at all.

Strings I have with me so far are Cyberflash, ALU Power, and ALU Power Rough.

Any strings you recommend, any hybrids? Thanks in advance!

azn_tomato
03-23-2008, 10:19 AM
What are the softest poly's with the most feel? Reading on feedback about them, i get "so much feel" blah blah, but i've never used a poly string and i don't really know if "tons of feel" is equivalent to no feel on a synthetic or something.
I don't plan on restringing too often so i want to get a good combination, where money isn't a big problem since i won't string anytime soon, but i don't break strings either, so i'm having a hard time deciding a string set-up.
Right now i'm thinking Klip Excellerator in the mains with Signum Pro Plasma HEXtreme in the crosses, but like i said, i'm not really sure what to expect of poly strings.
If i hate the feel, there's no chance my parents will let me restring it and i'll just have to play it for a while. On the other hand, i hear the Signum Pro Plasma co-poly's are pretty soft and have good feel...
If you could recommend a set-up or evaluate mine, that'd be great. What about just going full Klip Excellerator (multi)

J011yroger
03-23-2008, 10:47 AM
btw im interested in a non-stalker way of how jolly hits.. any videos my man?

:]

Last week I took down my vids from 07, looking forward to putting up new ones for 08, should be outdoors with rolling tape some time in april.

J

J011yroger
03-23-2008, 10:50 AM
Hey Jolly, just curious as to what you would suggest for me, a hybrid/full job, what strings etc...

I'm a hard hitting baseliner, my forhand is the biggest weapon in my game. I'm not a big string breaker but my strings lose tension, ALOT of tension and faster than the average. I'm not a big topspin guy, nor am I looking for strings that'll give me the biggest spin possible. I come to net to volley often, sometimes doing a little chip and charge and even serve and volley. Looking for a good overall string, preferably something that doesnt loose tension fast, and maintains overall playability for a while. I love poly BTW if that helps, and I can take any stiff strings, BUT i CANNOT stand those mushy strings at all.

Strings I have with me so far are Cyberflash, ALU Power, and ALU Power Rough.

Any strings you recommend, any hybrids? Thanks in advance!

Personally, I felt that Babolate Ballistic Polymono feels incredible when hitting flat. Hybrid or full job. ALU is more of a brute force topspin and pace string that really rewards hellish batspeed (which if you are not breaking fairly rapidly you probably don't have).

Never tried Cyberflash, so I can't say for that.

But if you are a flat hitter, definately give the BBP a shot, it certainly is cheap enough.

J

J011yroger
03-23-2008, 10:51 AM
What are the softest poly's with the most feel? Reading on feedback about them, i get "so much feel" blah blah, but i've never used a poly string and i don't really know if "tons of feel" is equivalent to no feel on a synthetic or something.
I don't plan on restringing too often so i want to get a good combination, where money isn't a big problem since i won't string anytime soon, but i don't break strings either, so i'm having a hard time deciding a string set-up.
Right now i'm thinking Klip Excellerator in the mains with Signum Pro Plasma HEXtreme in the crosses, but like i said, i'm not really sure what to expect of poly strings.
If i hate the feel, there's no chance my parents will let me restring it and i'll just have to play it for a while. On the other hand, i hear the Signum Pro Plasma co-poly's are pretty soft and have good feel...
If you could recommend a set-up or evaluate mine, that'd be great. What about just going full Klip Excellerator (multi)

If you don't plan on restringing often then poly isn't for you.

I would go with the full multi job since you are not a big breaker.

J

In)SpiRe
03-23-2008, 11:03 AM
Personally, I felt that Babolate Ballistic Polymono feels incredible when hitting flat. Hybrid or full job. ALU is more of a brute force topspin and pace string that really rewards hellish batspeed (which if you are not breaking fairly rapidly you probably don't have).

Never tried Cyberflash, so I can't say for that.

But if you are a flat hitter, definately give the BBP a shot, it certainly is cheap enough.

J

Well, its not that I dont break strings at all, as I've broken alot this year as I'm getting more serious abt tennis.
Racquet head speed isn't a problem for me, but its more of a... I usually cut my poly(I've been using only poly for a while now) out when they lose tension.
And I do hit with some topspin, but I was just emphasizing that spin isnt a huge deal for me.

Thx for the advice though!

J011yroger
03-23-2008, 11:06 AM
For under 5 bucks a set try the polymono, it really felt awesome to me when I was blasting it flat.

Obviously everyone has a different opinion, but it is really worth a shot.

J

In)SpiRe
03-23-2008, 11:11 AM
For under 5 bucks a set try the polymono, it really felt awesome to me when I was blasting it flat.

Obviously everyone has a different opinion, but it is really worth a shot.

J

Yea, Thx alot, I'll definitely be giving it a shot.

azn_tomato
03-23-2008, 11:17 AM
If i want more control whats is a good multi to put as a cross? The Klip Excellerator is a (from what i hear) a string that is pretty much the same as the Gamme Professional but with more bite. Not too durable though.

Tennisman912
03-25-2008, 01:48 PM
J011yroger,

I also use poly and like textured strings. I have been using Alu Rough full and it lasts me about 8- 10 hours. Unfortunately, I am a string breaker ( also use 18x20 string pattern). Finding a good textured poly is hard. You may want to try my favorite type of this string, Kirschbaum Super Smash Spikey in 16 or 17 gauge as you prefer. It gives me more spin than the ALU and is the most textured poly I have tried. It is is hard on the arm though if you are prone to arm trouble. The extra texture may hurt your depth a bit but then you can just lower the tension to what you used in your n90. Just a thought.

I am in the process of switching to something with a bit more pop (getting old and lazy) and am really liking the K95 18x20. I love the extra control over the open version. Time will tell.

Hope you like or have tried the string.

TM

J011yroger
03-25-2008, 02:16 PM
^^ I have heard both sides of the Kirsh strings. Would try it if someone gave me a set for giggles, but I am not looking to switch.

Right now concerned more with the guy doing the swinging than what he is swinging.

Besides bumping tension up to 62, on my next batch, I am really not looking to change anything.

J

Zhou
03-25-2008, 02:20 PM
Hey J011y you got your wish. It has been stickied.

toughshot
03-26-2008, 05:19 PM
Thanks J

I'm a frequent string breaker.. go through 1-2 sets a week

I use TF Polyspin in the mains, and gosen sheep 16 in the crosses, when i pop a string it's 90% of the time in one of the middle crosses.

I use string savers too.

Any recommendations for a durable cross that will soften the string bed?

iplaybetter
03-26-2008, 05:26 PM
try polylon it is one of the softest poly's i know of

tbini87
03-26-2008, 05:31 PM
Thanks J

I'm a frequent string breaker.. go through 1-2 sets a week

I use TF Polyspin in the mains, and gosen sheep 16 in the crosses, when i pop a string it's 90% of the time in one of the middle crosses.

I use string savers too.

Any recommendations for a durable cross that will soften the string bed?

try polylon it is one of the softest poly's i know of

i don't think a poly in the cross will soften the string bed. and polylon is STIFF... polylon sp is softer, but not compared to og sheep micro...

i would suggest psgd or a thicker gauge of syn gut. i don't have too much experience with durable syn guts because i am not string breaker.

iplaybetter
03-26-2008, 05:46 PM
i don't think a poly in the cross will soften the string bed. and polylon is STIFF... polylon sp is softer, but not compared to og sheep micro...

i would suggest psgd or a thicker gauge of syn gut. i don't have too much experience with durable syn guts because i am not string breaker.

polylon is not stiff at all its sorta soft, gut could work by the way

Rei
03-26-2008, 09:32 PM
I have got a question, might be slightly off topic. I'm by no means a string breaker as I NEVER break string during my 4 years tennis-experience. I hit hard, but not as hard as real hard hitter. My ball always go deep, and usually with moderate or a lot of topspin. Sometimes when I got coached, I practice 3 hours a day, 7 days a week and yet I couldn't break my string (Not that i try to) but I did hit as hard as usual for depth and penetration.

My strings became mushy however and I know it's time to change.

But my question is how can one break a string? I know my friends breaks his every week, or most likely every 3 matches. He hit harder and more spin than me though.

adams_1
03-27-2008, 02:40 AM
I take a little forum break, come back, and find the long awaited string guide is up :D

Nice guide, Jolly.

tbini87
03-27-2008, 07:39 AM
I have got a question, might be slightly off topic. I'm by no means a string breaker as I NEVER break string during my 4 years tennis-experience. I hit hard, but not as hard as real hard hitter. My ball always go deep, and usually with moderate or a lot of topspin. Sometimes when I got coached, I practice 3 hours a day, 7 days a week and yet I couldn't break my string (Not that i try to) but I did hit as hard as usual for depth and penetration.

My strings became mushy however and I know it's time to change.

But my question is how can one break a string? I know my friends breaks his every week, or most likely every 3 matches. He hit harder and more spin than me though.

the answer to how do you break a string is hit harder, with more topspin. or you could use a less durable string, but you should find the string that best works for your game and stick with it.

however, that is a silly question and shouldn't really even be asked. i am kind of like you where i play jc tennis with guys that break strings at least once a week, but i rarely ever break strings. however, it is a bonus for me, because i get the full life out of my strings before i have to cut them out and restring. some people just aren't string breakers, so don't worry about it. when they get mushy cut them out and restring.

tbini87
03-27-2008, 07:42 AM
polylon is not stiff at all its sorta soft, gut could work by the way

hmm, are you sure you aren't talking about polylon SP? if you think polylon is soft then we can agree to disagree! from my experiences with it (polylon ice 16) it is a stiff, harsh string that loses tension pretty quickly. polylon sp is better but that still doesn't even hold a candle up to something like big ace or poly polar...

Rei
03-27-2008, 09:34 AM
the answer to how do you break a string is hit harder, with more topspin. or you could use a less durable string, but you should find the string that best works for your game and stick with it.

however, that is a silly question and shouldn't really even be asked. i am kind of like you where i play jc tennis with guys that break strings at least once a week, but i rarely ever break strings. however, it is a bonus for me, because i get the full life out of my strings before i have to cut them out and restring. some people just aren't string breakers, so don't worry about it. when they get mushy cut them out and restring.

Hey thanks, just ask out of curiosity. I normally hit even harder and more spin than that guy that breaks his string every now and then, it makes me wonder. But then again we use different string/ tensions/ guage/ rackets and play quite differently. He also plays more frequent than me.

Rei
03-27-2008, 09:36 AM
oh one more question, apparently as I have stated I don't break string at all. Should I try natgut (and possibly stick with it?). I don't mind the cost because I don't break string at all. jo11roger also said gut hold tension the best. I don't play that often may be twice a week and it isn't that humid in London.

tbini87
03-28-2008, 07:08 PM
^^ strings, gauges, tension, and string pattern, head size will all play a big role in breaking strings. you will be far more likely to break strings on an oversized racquet with an open pattern using a syn gut 17 gauge then if you were using a midplus with 16 gauge polyester.

it sounds like natural gut could work for you. i personally don't have any experience with it (because of the cost), but have only heard good things about it. expect plenty of pop, control, spin, and tension maint. don't really see how you could go wrong if you aren't a string breaker. give it a shot and let us know how it goes!

Rei
03-28-2008, 08:52 PM
^^ strings, gauges, tension, and string pattern, head size will all play a big role in breaking strings. you will be far more likely to break strings on an oversized racquet with an open pattern using a syn gut 17 gauge then if you were using a midplus with 16 gauge polyester.

it sounds like natural gut could work for you. i personally don't have any experience with it (because of the cost), but have only heard good things about it. expect plenty of pop, control, spin, and tension maint. don't really see how you could go wrong if you aren't a string breaker. give it a shot and let us know how it goes!

I see, it's clear now. I never use anything larger than 100 sqinches/ always 18x20 pattern and always play 16g + Poly string so that does explain a bit.

Guess I will give Babolat VS a shot. This could turn out to be very good match for my current racket (nBlade 98). Thanks for your response!

supermario343
03-29-2008, 06:48 AM
very good insight about strings i must say...i printed out a copy even lol B-)

J011yroger
03-30-2008, 07:16 AM
J011yroger,

I also use poly and like textured strings. I have been using Alu Rough full and it lasts me about 8- 10 hours. Unfortunately, I am a string breaker ( also use 18x20 string pattern). Finding a good textured poly is hard. You may want to try my favorite type of this string, Kirschbaum Super Smash Spikey in 16 or 17 gauge as you prefer. It gives me more spin than the ALU and is the most textured poly I have tried. It is is hard on the arm though if you are prone to arm trouble. The extra texture may hurt your depth a bit but then you can just lower the tension to what you used in your n90. Just a thought.

I am in the process of switching to something with a bit more pop (getting old and lazy) and am really liking the K95 18x20. I love the extra control over the open version. Time will tell.

Hope you like or have tried the string.

TM

OK so I lied. Was at the sony ericsson and they had buy one get one free on Kirshbaum strings. Got 2 sets of super smash spikey and a t-shirt for 8 bucks.

J

ryanq
03-31-2008, 08:47 AM
I just read the whole thing last night. It was a great read.

I have Dunlop Aerogel500Tour, baseliner (but sometimes pushing myself towards the net), Tension: 58-60lbs, okay to restring every 1-2 months. play 4times/week, 2hours/time.
strings right now: X-1biphase

I'm up for restring and have 1set of SPPPpure and Tecnifibre XR3. Im having a dilema if i should do a Hybrid or just full XR3. what would you suggest?

Thanks in advance.

ryanq
03-31-2008, 08:50 AM
btw, not a string breaker, Eastern BH, Semi-western FH

J011yroger
03-31-2008, 06:29 PM
btw, not a string breaker, Eastern BH, Semi-western FH

Full XR3, when you get more advanced, and pick up the batspeed to a level when you are breaking the multis in hours, then experiment with a poly blend.

J

ryanq
03-31-2008, 09:47 PM
Full XR3, when you get more advanced, and pick up the batspeed to a level when you are breaking the multis in hours, then experiment with a poly blend.

J

Thanks a lot.

J011yroger
04-01-2008, 02:04 AM
No prob. Let me know how it works out for ya.

J

Arthur
04-01-2008, 03:46 AM
This part is interesting to me, and it's consistent with my experience with string gauge in 18x20 racquets. 16's give me a more solid, penetrating shot. 17's and 18's give me a lighter, spinnier shot (good for the short angle and the "dipper" in doubles hit at the net player's feet, but not good for much else). Until now I've addressed this by using 16's, but it sounds like using 17's strung a little looser might let me have my dipper and my deep drive. (Or maybe I just need to practice flattening out my drives a little more using 17's.)

A brief after-action report: I'm used to 16 gauge synthetic gut strung at 54 lbs. in my LM Radical midplus. Previously I had strung 17 gauge synthetic gut at 56 lbs. This time I strung Prince Original Synthetic Gut 17 at 54 lbs. and tried it out. (I know the idea was to string looser, but since I had strung 17 gauge tighter before, I went with 2 lbs. looser than my last try with 17's.) I tried it for about 8 hours, drills and doubles matches.

With the 17's, I felt like I had more spin on the ball and felt like I could swing faster and still not hit it out. Same stroke, more spin, more margin for error over the net. But it was at the net where I really felt the difference. Volleys felt lighter and weaker. They sat up and lacked weight and punch. Then I picked up my other racquet with 16 gauge Jim Courier synthetic gut at 54 lbs. I felt like a had a more solid, more powerful shot from all over the court. A bit less spin, but much more solid, especially at the net.

Maybe there's more going on here than just string gauge (maybe the racquet with the 16's also happens to have more weight in the head). Maybe I should drop the 17's down to 52 lbs. and then compare (though I don't know how that would change the feel at the net, which was the biggest difference I noticed). Or maybe I'm just the sort of unadventurous soul who likes what he's used to and nothing else. Bottom line, J011y, on this trial run, 17's did just what you said they would, but for some reason I still prefer the feel of 16's in my 18x20 racquets.

J011yroger
04-01-2008, 04:17 AM
Or maybe I'm just the sort of unadventurous soul who likes what he's used to and nothing else. Bottom line, J011y, on this trial run, 17's did just what you said they would, but for some reason I still prefer the feel of 16's in my 18x20 racquets.

Yea man, I am the same way, I like what I like and that's it.

Bottom line is you need to decide how you want to play the game, and string with what allows you to do that best, then take it from there, and adjust on the other aspects of the game.

With the 17s you would probably volley much better if you strung it 4lb tighter, but then would suffer from the back court.

Up to you to chose one aspect of your game over another, or to split the difference.

J

Gerry
04-01-2008, 09:04 AM
I need help to find which type of string would fit my game best, i hope you can give me some tips.

Right now i use poly (Luxilon Big Banger ALU Power 16L) at 57 and so far it's been very good, although i do feel it a little stiff and i'm not sure if my shoulder would be tired soon. The only reason i bought this string is because of the added spin and that it would not break, that is, i won't need to restring every month (i would like every, 3 months because of the cost).

I've never been a string breaker, i play 7 hours a week (average) and i would like a string that allows me to generate good spin (i dont hit much spin, but would like to) and keeps the tension for long time (2 - 3 months). Which string would you suggest? (if possible give me a "best option" and a "best low cost" option).

Thank you very much in advance.

G.

Zhou
04-01-2008, 09:08 AM
Natural Gut keeps tension for long periods of time.

J011yroger
04-01-2008, 01:37 PM
I need help to find which type of string would fit my game best, i hope you can give me some tips.

Right now i use poly (Luxilon Big Banger ALU Power 16L) at 57 and so far it's been very good, although i do feel it a little stiff and i'm not sure if my shoulder would be tired soon. The only reason i bought this string is because of the added spin and that it would not break, that is, i won't need to restring every month (i would like every, 3 months because of the cost).

I've never been a string breaker, i play 7 hours a week (average) and i would like a string that allows me to generate good spin (i dont hit much spin, but would like to) and keeps the tension for long time (2 - 3 months). Which string would you suggest? (if possible give me a "best option" and a "best low cost" option).

Thank you very much in advance.

G.

What is your playing level and style?

J

Gerry
04-01-2008, 01:51 PM
What is your playing level and style?

J

I'm a 4.0 player, baseliner (although sometimes i like to approach to the net). Im using a Head LM Radical MP.

G.

J011yroger
04-01-2008, 02:22 PM
I'm a 4.0 player, baseliner (although sometimes i like to approach to the net). Im using a Head LM Radical MP.

G.

Nat Gut would be best, but probably something like Wilson NXT Tour/TechnifibreNRG2 would be a good baseline for you. Try that, and report what you like/don't like about it, and take it from there.

J

Gerry
04-01-2008, 03:01 PM
Nat Gut would be best, but probably something like Wilson NXT Tour/TechnifibreNRG2 would be a good baseline for you. Try that, and report what you like/don't like about it, and take it from there.

J

Thank you very much for your tip. I'll try one of those 2 you recommend and then i'll post how they performed.

G.

bluegrasser
04-02-2008, 04:27 AM
I had spikey & excel in my PD, but soon the elbow swelled up with much pain, so I put in PSG duroflex (s?) - now when I get a short ball to the forehand side it goes ten feet out, literally..

J011yroger
04-02-2008, 02:12 PM
I had spikey & excel in my PD, but soon the elbow swelled up with much pain, so I put in PSG duroflex (s?) - now when I get a short ball to the forehand side it goes ten feet out, literally..

My wrist is barely to the point where I can hit low short forehands again.

It is one of the last things to come back.

J

tailofdog
04-05-2008, 10:22 PM
The best gut i have found is Klip Legend(uncoated ) it really is worth the money

herosol
04-07-2008, 05:55 PM
hey jolly, I was wondering about poly strings.
I hit with a western grip forehand and same with backhand and I play with a full stringbed of 17g of Cyberflash. I have broken these already twice, and before i broke my PHT all one months time.

I also have one of my LM strung up with full ALUBB, and i hate it with a passion right now. I have a set of Pro Supex BA coming, which I heard is REALLY soft for a polyester string. My bat speed isnt AMAZING, but i can do something, do you think hybriding in a multi/synth may help me be less dependent on consistent batspeed? Or should i refer back to synthetics, that Ihavent ever palyed on my LM yet.

J011yroger
04-07-2008, 06:03 PM
Are you breaking the poly in the sweetspot, or shearing it on offcenter hits?

J

herosol
04-07-2008, 06:49 PM
Are you breaking the poly in the sweetspot, or shearing it on offcenter hits?

J

2 off-centers, 1 sweetspot area.

J011yroger
04-07-2008, 06:57 PM
Edit: Sorry confused you for someone else!

J

J011yroger
04-07-2008, 07:00 PM
2 off-centers, 1 sweetspot area.

Try the synguts as a starting point, and if you don't like them, and want to stiffen it up a bit and get some more bite, then throw your softer poly mains at the frame.

Just make sure you are not sacrificing depth.

Back third of the court on 75% of your balls!!!!!

J

herosol
04-07-2008, 07:03 PM
Try the synguts as a starting point, and if you don't like them, and want to stiffen it up a bit and get some more bite, then throw your softer poly mains at the frame.

Just make sure you are not sacrificing depth.

Back third of the court on 75% of your balls!!!!!

J

ahaa. kk. ill have these two strung up with a hybrid and a synthetic one to give each a shot. thanks for the help.

75% a third, how abouat 100% past the baseline...lol...jk

J011yroger
04-07-2008, 07:06 PM
75% a third, how abouat 100% past the baseline...lol...jk

LOL, I have been known to try to take down the back wall a time or two in my day :)

J

ryanq
04-08-2008, 02:46 PM
No prob. Let me know how it works out for ya.

J

played with XR3 for 3 days now. Good overall but it moves a lot. Will it help if I hybrid with SPPPpure1.18(main)? Thanks.

J011yroger
04-08-2008, 02:59 PM
played with XR3 for 3 days now. Good overall but it moves a lot. Will it help if I hybrid with SPPPpure1.18(main)? Thanks.

Yea, but do you want to play better or do you want your strings to stay still?

J

Nitro
04-08-2008, 03:19 PM
I actually have an SPPP and Cyberflash question. A hear a lot about how these strings are so playable and hold tension well. Playability I know is relatively speaking seeing as all poly is relatively unplayable. What about tension though? Can either hold tension nearly as well as syn gut or a multi? How do these poly's compare in general to syn gut and multifilament strings?

J011yroger
04-08-2008, 03:25 PM
I actually have an SPPP and Cyberflash question. A hear a lot about how these strings are so playable and hold tension well. Playability I know is relatively speaking seeing as all poly is relatively unplayable. What about tension though? Can either hold tension nearly as well as syn gut or a multi? How do these poly's compare in general to syn gut and multifilament strings?

They advertise that they hold tension well, but that is for a poly.

No poly is really going to be as good as a syn or multi.

J

ryanq
04-08-2008, 10:07 PM
Yea, but do you want to play better or do you want your strings to stay still?

J

what do you mean? are you saying Hybriding it will reduce performance?

I want to play better but I'm just curious if the hybrid will help the string to stay still w/o losing performance.

Sentinel
04-12-2008, 01:18 AM
J,
In the beginning, you mentioned that Nylon is junk. Could you elaborate a bit on that ?
Thanks.

Dyne
04-13-2008, 03:10 AM
I'm back to ask for a bit more help. The strings didn't beak too fast on me. A week shy of a month, I think. ( Set-up shown in signature )

Scenario: I practice a lot. Usually 3-5 hours a day, 4-6 days a week. The day before a hard match I was doing some heavy hitting. The strings started to really move at that point. Now during the match I hit a running forehand broke the strings. They snapped at the bottom of the racquet.

So I loved the strings. There wasn't much not to like about them. But I have a few questions:

Is there a string that performs like the NRG2 I can test?
Would stringing them at 56 lbs increase the durability and performance of the string?
Should I move to a poly even though I have slight tennis elbow?

My main concern right now is being able to keep my strings alive for another month while keeping the performance. I have a tournament in a couple weeks and high school districts at the end of the month. I don't want to have to restring twice a month due to lack of money.

J011yroger
04-13-2008, 03:15 AM
what do you mean? are you saying Hybriding it will reduce performance?

I want to play better but I'm just curious if the hybrid will help the string to stay still w/o losing performance.

I doubt that you will hit the same quality ball with the hybrid as you do with the full syn setup.

J

J011yroger
04-13-2008, 03:17 AM
J,
In the beginning, you mentioned that Nylon is junk. Could you elaborate a bit on that ?
Thanks.

It is just extremely cheap to make, and doesn't do anything particularly well. It is a very basic string. If you are a beginner-low intermediate, and looking to save money, then it is servicable, but there are several basic synguts that are just a dollar or two more, that are just all around better performing strings.

J

J011yroger
04-13-2008, 03:22 AM
I'm back to ask for a bit more help. The strings didn't beak too fast on me. A week shy of a month, I think. ( Set-up shown in signature )

Scenario: I practice a lot. Usually 3-5 hours a day, 4-6 days a week. The day before a hard match I was doing some heavy hitting. The strings started to really move at that point. Now during the match I hit a running forehand broke the strings. They snapped at the bottom of the racquet.

So I loved the strings. There wasn't much not to like about them. But I have a few questions:

Is there a string that performs like the NRG2 I can test?
Would stringing them at 56 lbs increase the durability and performance of the string?
Should I move to a poly even though I have slight tennis elbow?

My main concern right now is being able to keep my strings alive for another month while keeping the performance. I have a tournament in a couple weeks and high school districts at the end of the month. I don't want to have to restring twice a month due to lack of money.

If they broke at the very bottom of the racquet it was likely due to a mishit, and not much you can do about that.

You are getting 60+ hours out of a stringjob, that is a lot. Get used to restringing, it will only happen more frequently as you get better.

If you really want to extend durability, then use stringsavers.

As per the guide, the reason to string looser, would be to increase your depth.

If you have any hint of tennis elbow, don't switch to a poly blend.

And if you are getting 60 hours out of NRG2 you don't have the batspeed to make poly work well for you.

J

In)SpiRe
04-13-2008, 06:10 AM
Jolly, quick question about playability.

How playable are multis and synthetic guts throughout their life? Will they start to play bad like poly after a while or will they maintain their playability throughout the duration of their use? For example PSGD, or Biphase, or NRG2.

Also, if I hydrid a poly with a synthetic gut, will that increase playabilty, durability, and tension maintinence more so than a full poly or a full synthetic gut set-up? Lets just say something like Cyberflash, and Gosen OG Micro.

J011yroger
04-13-2008, 06:19 AM
Jolly, quick question about playability.

How playable are multis and synthetic guts throughout their life? Will they start to play bad like poly after a while or will they maintain their playability throughout the duration of their use? For example PSGD, or Biphase, or NRG2.

Also, if I hydrid a poly with a synthetic gut, will that increase playabilty, durability, and tension maintinence more so than a full poly or a full synthetic gut set-up? Lets just say something like Cyberflash, and Gosen OG Micro.

Almost anything on the planet will play better for longer than a poly.

Hybriding won't really help the situation.

Bottom line, if you don't want to restring frequently, poly isn't for you.

J

In)SpiRe
04-13-2008, 06:23 AM
Almost anything on the planet will play better for longer than a poly.

Hybriding won't really help the situation.

Bottom line, if you don't want to restring frequently, poly isn't for you.

J

It just that I really like polys, but I also like freshly strung, and crisp synthetic guts [but I hate moving them -_-]. But I break synthetic guts pretty fast and don't want to pay for too many restringings for either one..

J011yroger
04-13-2008, 06:36 AM
It just that I really like polys, but I also like freshly strung, and crisp synthetic guts [but I hate moving them -_-]. But I break synthetic guts pretty fast and don't want to pay for too many restringings for either one..

Sorry buddy, there is no silver bullet, you either restring often, or you deal with something that isn't as good.

Anyone who claims otherwise is full of it, or deluding themselves, or just isn't good enough to tell the difference.

J

Lloyd Barcenilla
04-13-2008, 06:59 AM
Sorry buddy, there is no silver bullet, you either restring often, or you deal with something that isn't as good.

Anyone who claims otherwise is full of it, or deluding themselves, or just isn't good enough to tell the difference.

J

Hey

i like the feel, spin and power level from a poly, but i hate cutting it out and so do my parents. Would i lose a lot of the control and spin by trying a full syn gut or a syn gut/poly hybrid?

Thanks

tlm
04-13-2008, 07:15 AM
Jo11yroger is right on the money with his information. If you guys want to save yourself some time + money just take his advise. His guide to stringing is exactly correct, great information.

My only complaint is i wish he would have put this out a couple years ago, would have saved me a lot of money. Just kidding Jo11yroger, i probably would have had to try all these different string jobs anyway.

I always get a kick out of these guys that say they can play with poly for weeks+ it doesnt feel that bad. Like the man says if you want to use poly just plan on restringing often. i use it for 3 hours+ then i will use it for a backup racquet only.

One question for jo11yroger what do you think of the kevlar mains at low tension with syn. x's. I have tried this setup in my speedport black + it is better than anything i have used. I put 18 g. kevlar at 48 lbs. + tnt2 at 54 lbs.+ this plays great.

I was playing weisscannon or alu flouro at 68 lbs+ of course it played great for a couple of hours+ that was it. The only thing i am worried about is the kevlar being harsh on the arm, but so far it seems fine at this low tension.

I can not believe how much better this setup plays, even better than the new poly. It seems to take the lack of control out of this racquet, but still leave me with plenty of power.

Dyne
04-13-2008, 10:51 AM
Thanks for the help, Jolly. I think I'm going to try the NXT Tour next -- another one of your suggestions. I decided I'll test out all the "good" high-end multis and find the one I like.

J011yroger
04-13-2008, 11:19 AM
Hey

i like the feel, spin and power level from a poly, but i hate cutting it out and so do my parents. Would i lose a lot of the control and spin by trying a full syn gut or a syn gut/poly hybrid?

Thanks

Try a full syn gut and see how long it lasts you, and how you like it.

You are gonna be in the same boat cutting out hybrid jobs, so I don't see any real need to try that.

What you are talking about is a feel thing, I do think that the great majority of people will hit a higher quality ball with a syn gut over a poly.

J

J011yroger
04-13-2008, 11:20 AM
Thanks for the help, Jolly. I think I'm going to try the NXT Tour next -- another one of your suggestions. I decided I'll test out all the "good" high-end multis and find the one I like.

Sounds like a good plan.

J

J011yroger
04-13-2008, 11:26 AM
One question for jo11yroger what do you think of the kevlar mains at low tension with syn. x's. I have tried this setup in my speedport black + it is better than anything i have used. I put 18 g. kevlar at 48 lbs. + tnt2 at 54 lbs.+ this plays great.

Not a big kevlar player myself. Once I started to put sufficient hurt on the ball that I was breaking multis in 1/2-1 hour I switched to the Lux.

Kevlar will bite harder than poly at lower batspeeds but once you cross a certain batspeed threshold, the poly will eclipse the kevlar performance wise.

Actually... I am not sure exactly what you are asking :)

J

Lloyd Barcenilla
04-13-2008, 11:49 AM
Try a full syn gut and see how long it lasts you, and how you like it.

You are gonna be in the same boat cutting out hybrid jobs, so I don't see any real need to try that.

What you are talking about is a feel thing, I do think that the great majority of people will hit a higher quality ball with a syn gut over a poly.

J

Higher quality as in...

1012007
04-13-2008, 11:52 AM
Probably more depth/spin.

However you get more power with a synth gut, but just before it breaks it gets really powerful and impossible for BH slices (for me anyway)

J011yroger
04-13-2008, 11:53 AM
Higher quality as in...

More pace and spin with a given swing. Poly doesn't generate pace or spin on its own, it just allows you to hit the ball harder and keep it in, however you need to have that ability within yourself. If you don't have excess batspeed, then you need to float the ball in order to maintain depth which results in a lower quality ball, less pace and a looser spin.

J

Lloyd Barcenilla
04-13-2008, 11:56 AM
More pace and spin with a given swing. Poly doesn't generate pace or spin on its own, it just allows you to hit the ball harder and keep it in, however you need to have that ability within yourself. If you don't have excess batspeed, then you need to float the ball in order to maintain depth which results in a lower quality ball, less pace and a looser spin.

J

With a poly, i find the faster i swing, the more spin i get, and the shorter it lands.

I really do like the kick off blue gear, but maybe i should try full syn gut.

J011yroger
04-13-2008, 12:16 PM
With a poly, i find the faster i swing, the more spin i get, and the shorter it lands.

I really do like the kick off blue gear, but maybe i should try full syn gut.

Hitting short is unacceptable if you wish to advance as a player.

I cannot put into words how important depth is to playing tennis.

When trying various string combinations, depth must be maintained, and the quality of your ball at the same depth must be evaluated.

So in your case, you would need to either alter your swing putting more emphasis on forward and less on topspin, and thus generating a lesser quality ball, or string looser to reclaim your depth.

Your nice, easy, even, smooth, moderate swing should have the ball landing in the back 1/3 of the court. I mean it should be effortless to hit the ball that deep ALL THE TIME!!!

Full syn gut will give you more pop, taking your ball deeper and allowing you to put more of your racquethead speed into generating topspin, thereby allowing you to hit the same depth with more pace and more spin, ie. a higher quality ball.

J

Lloyd Barcenilla
04-13-2008, 12:24 PM
Hitting short is unacceptable if you wish to advance as a player.

I cannot put into words how important depth is to playing tennis.

When trying various string combinations, depth must be maintained, and the quality of your ball at the same depth must be evaluated.

So in your case, you would need to either alter your swing putting more emphasis on forward and less on topspin, and thus generating a lesser quality ball, or string looser to reclaim your depth.

Your nice, easy, even, smooth, moderate swing should have the ball landing in the back 1/3 of the court. I mean it should be effortless to hit the ball that deep ALL THE TIME!!!

Full syn gut will give you more pop, taking your ball deeper and allowing you to put more of your racquethead speed into generating topspin, thereby allowing you to hit the same depth with more pace and more spin, ie. a higher quality ball.

J

Okay, thank you.

Do you have any synthetic guts you suggest me trying to start off?

I see you are using alu power (can't remember whether its rough or not now)
Are you an advanced player?

1012007
04-13-2008, 12:29 PM
As you know i use PSGD and its very crisp, nice spin/power and is easy to string etc

Buy some off e bay.com.

1 ending soon for 25 incl shipping or you could buy now for 30 shipped

J011yroger
04-13-2008, 12:30 PM
Do you have any synthetic guts you suggest me trying to start off?

Start with Prince Synthetic, that is pretty much the benchmark string.

Are you an advanced player?

I'm ok ;)

J

tlm
04-13-2008, 03:11 PM
Sorry i wasnt clear Jo11yroger, my question was do you think that kevlar at real low tension will be hard on the arm? The speedport black is pretty stiff, but i was able to use poly at high tension+ get away with it.

You say that once you reach a certain batspeed the poly will play better? I think i know what you mean, but when the racquet you are using is a powerful it seems like the kevlar works better for me.

I use western grip+ i believe i have a fast swing, i put a lot of topspin on the ball. But it seems like i can even swing faster with the kevlar because the ball will always come down, were with the poly if i am off a little the ball will go long.

J011yroger
04-13-2008, 03:18 PM
You gotta listen to your body, everyone is different.

If it starts to hurt, try something else.

J

Dyne
04-15-2008, 05:22 PM
On the topic of Kevlar strings at low tension, what's your opinion on it, Jolly? It makes me want to try it out sometime later. Sounds really interesting and cheap. Most of the feedback I've gotten from it has been positive.

Again, what's your opinion -- if you can give one?

J011yroger
04-15-2008, 06:42 PM
On the topic of Kevlar strings at low tension, what's your opinion on it, Jolly? It makes me want to try it out sometime later. Sounds really interesting and cheap. Most of the feedback I've gotten from it has been positive.

Again, what's your opinion -- if you can give one?

Here is a post from this very page on it.

Not a big kevlar player myself. Once I started to put sufficient hurt on the ball that I was breaking multis in 1/2-1 hour I switched to the Lux.

Kevlar will bite harder than poly at lower batspeeds but once you cross a certain batspeed threshold, the poly will eclipse the kevlar performance wise.

Actually... I am not sure exactly what you are asking :)

J

For someone like you, it is worth trying if you are breaking syn guts and looking for something more durable, and also if you are hitting a bit long, and looking for something to put a bit more bite on the ball and take a little boing out of the stringbed.

Be aware that you are going to lose some depth and some feel with it.

And even though you may feel like you are hitting the ball better, you may actually be hitting a lesser quality ball.

So good to string up one bat with your normal setup, and one with the Kevlar, and ask a hitting partner which you hit a better ball with.

J

Dyne
04-15-2008, 10:51 PM
That's great. Exactly what I was looking for. I think I'll string up one of my sticks with it sometime during the summer.

Japanese Maple
04-24-2008, 08:14 AM
Jolly Roger-enjoyed your post , thanks for taking the time to put your thoughts together. One of your comments indicated that a 16 gage string is more powerful than a 17g-I thought it was the other way around. Also, its good for people to know that when you go from 16g to 17g at the same tension, the 17 g will be tighter. So if they want comparable feel of the 16g they should drop the tension 1 lb. for the 17g. Do you know if looser strings will provide more spin potential?

J011yroger
04-24-2008, 04:57 PM
Can you find where I said 16 was more powerful than 17? I don't recall ever saying that and will edit it if I did.

I think gagues are fairly even power wise.

The reason to drop tension on a 17 would be to reclaim some depth you lost with the more spin you were generating. But that is really really fine tuning.

I wouldn't reccomending changing tension and string gague at the same time, first I would try the new string at your old tension, and adjust from there.

It is a really bad idea to try to hit the nail on the head your first shot.

Because when you miss, you won't know what to adjust.

Looser strings won't inherently give you more spin potential. They will require you to hit with more spin than if you strung tighter in order to maintain the same depth as you did with the tighter setup.

But the actual generating of the spin is totally on you.

Heck if you want to press me for an answer I would even say considering pure RPM that the tighter stringjob would bite harder and allow you to create more spin than the loose job if you have it in you. But of course depth would suffer.

J

herosol
04-24-2008, 07:13 PM
yo jolly. I took your advice and decided to throw in a new hybrid of Big Ace 1.25 /Gosen Sheep Micro 1.30

I have to say, the new softer stringbed, has allowed me to hit MUCH deeper shots, consistently, and it requires less racket-head speed.

It was a good hit from the start, even during match play today, it was good feel. I'm deciding whether to try a full Gosen set-up on my other racket, but it's hard to say. thanks tho.

J011yroger
04-24-2008, 07:46 PM
No prob bro, glad it is working out for ya.

J

Japanese Maple
04-25-2008, 03:44 AM
Jolly Roger-Under "String Gage" you said "if you find that your ball is landing short with the thinner gage string, first try to reclaim your depth by string tension before reverting back to your old thicker gage string." You were referring to more spin potential of thinner strings causing the ball to land short, but more spin should be offset by your ability to maintain depth due to more inherent power capability of a thinner gage string. Thinner strings I believe give you both more spin potential and power-do you agree?

J011yroger
04-25-2008, 11:34 AM
Not really, which is why I didn't write it.

J

Japanese Maple
04-26-2008, 02:27 AM
Not really, which is why I didn't write it.

J
Jolly Roger, from my experience and from what I have read in numerous articles, thinner strings most definitely give you more power and spin potential than a thicker gauge string. Would you mind sharing your insights and expertise as to why you do not feel this is true?

J011yroger
04-26-2008, 07:01 AM
Ummm sure. Like I said, I don't have any lab tested proof for anything, just my feelings and observations.

There have not been too many strings that I have played the lets say 16 and 17 back to back in order to test them. But when I have, difference in power wasn't really enough to warrant special consideration. What jumps out at me is the more bite you get on the ball with the thinner gague, and the increased awareness of what is going on on the stringbed.

So basically I don't ever remember trying a thinner gague of a string and saying "Woah this has more zip than the thicker version" More bite and feel yes, but noticibly more power, no.

Not to say it isn't true for some strings and brands, just that I haven't experienced it.

And from life experience, I have found that not talking about stuff that you don't know about first hand is a good way to avoid looking like an ***, which is the main reason when people ask me about strings or racquets I have not tried, I just say "I don't know" :)

J

Japanese Maple
04-26-2008, 11:09 AM
Jolly Roger, a thinner gauge string is only going to give you more spin if your hitting with spin mechanics, but if you drive the ball from my experience it will give you more power compared to a thicker string strung at same tension. Thats why I was confused about your recommendation for lack of depth for a thinner string due to excessive spin to first lower the tension and if that doesn't work to then go to a thicker string. I really don't think that string gauge has a whole lot to do with lack of depth on your shot and if anything thinner strings gives you more depth due to a little extra zip/power. Look it over, you might want to edit your info regarding this.

J011yroger
04-26-2008, 04:07 PM
Feel free to write your own guide to stringing. To discuss this any further with you I feel is beating a dead horse, I have stated my opinion, you have stated yours, and the masses are free to take or ignore the advice of either of us based on previous track records, and the amount of respect that they have for either of us.

J

Nitro
04-26-2008, 04:34 PM
I really don't think that string gage has a whole lot to do with lack of depth on your shot and if anything thinner strings gives you more depth due to a little extra zip/power.

Ok now I'm confused. I thought that Jolly's comment in the initial post was geared more towards spin. I was under the impression that he was saying that you might find the spin created by a thinner gauge will make your shots land shorter because there is more spin, not less power. Is this correct or am I completely confused?

J011yroger
04-27-2008, 07:31 AM
Ok now I'm confused. I thought that Jolly's comment in the initial post was geared more towards spin. I was under the impression that he was saying that you might find the spin created by a thinner gauge will make your shots land shorter because there is more spin, not less power. Is this correct or am I completely confused?

Yes you are correct, that is exactly what I was saying.

J

Loco4Tennis
04-27-2008, 07:47 AM
ive run into a string that really does gray out IMO this matter of spin and power from a thin string
its the 17g technifiber synthtic gut string, very cheap and very soft string,
i tried it on the mains at 58lbs, it sucked in regards to control, spin and power, the string was just too soft to be used on the mains, really mushhy feel, but these strings are simply great for me on the crosses, soft just like i like them
so while 17g might be good for spin in regards to a 16g, the power because of the more ellastic issue of the string is affected by the construction of the string and the quality of the materials used, so in my opinion, all things being equal 17g strings still offer better bite and spin than 16g strings, but i guess you really need to be carefull as to what 17g string you pair up for a compareson, because the 17g gosen og micro is going to have a much better test result than the 17g technifiber string i mentioned

Japanese Maple
04-27-2008, 03:14 PM
Ok now I'm confused. I thought that Jolly's comment in the initial post was geared more towards spin. I was under the impression that he was saying that you might find the spin created by a thinner gauge will make your shots land shorter because there is more spin, not less power. Is this correct or am I completely confused?
Nitro-you are correct that Jolly was referring to excessive spin in his reference to using a thinner gauge string. I only question his remedy which is to first lower your tension to get back your depth-I don't think you want to do that, better to drive forward more in your stroke mechanics to gain depth first. I also don't agree that going to a thicker string is going to give you more depth, less spin yes, but more depth no. Going from a 16 gauge string to a 17 g will most definitely give you a more lively string bed producing more power/depth and spin potential. If anything, by going to a 17 g string from a 16 g you may have to increase tension to control the power and depth, but managing spin should not be a problem.

jonvdw
05-01-2008, 07:41 PM
If the poly breaks first, why don't you try a thicker gauge poly or a kevlar main?

jonvdw
05-01-2008, 07:44 PM
Hey Nick,

I had VS 16/Timo 18 at 62/65 pounds. Don't know if it was the higher tension on the poly or the thin gauge, but I thought the thin poly would saw through the mains even faster!

With a multi/poly hybrid, the multi is fully trashed while the poly is untouched.

I'm now getting some decent life out of my VS gut/BB ALU Power hybrid. At lower tensions, the strings broke even faster than at a higher tension! At higher tensions the strings locked into place and prevented any excess moving that lower tensions gave. Usually my strings break faster with higher tensions, but not this time.

I'm tired of switching strings and need to settle on something fast before outdoor season starts!

-BA
Try Signum-Pro Poly Plasma. It's about as good as Big Banger Alu Power at one third the cost.

ryanq
05-02-2008, 11:40 AM
in Hybrid, what are the benefits of the string on mains? crosses?

Mains: power?spin?feel?durability?

Crosses: power?Spin?feel?durability?

What's the typical thing should i look for? Thinking a hybrid of topspin Cyberpower and cyberflash. I'm not sure which should go to main and crosses.

I want a good spin and power but still as soft as a full Cyberpower.

thanks in advance.

Cup8489
05-02-2008, 08:49 PM
Nitro-you are correct that Jolly was referring to excessive spin in his reference to using a thinner gauge string. I only question his remedy which is to first lower your tension to get back your depth-I don't think you want to do that, better to drive forward more in your stroke mechanics to gain depth first. I also don't agree that going to a thicker string is going to give you more depth, less spin yes, but more depth no. Going from a 16 gauge string to a 17 g will most definitely give you a more lively string bed producing more power/depth and spin potential. If anything, by going to a 17 g string from a 16 g you may have to increase tension to control the power and depth, but managing spin should not be a problem.

by loosening the tension, i think he was implying it would be beneficial as opposed to changing your stroke mechanics. it's always easier to mess with the strings than it is to try to recreate a forehand. and if you maintain the same stroke with a 16 g vs a 17 g, you will generate less spin, which will mean the ball won't drop as quickly, allowing for more depth. in my own limited experience, it's much easier to lower tension a pound or two on a thinner gauge to maintain depth (by lowering the tension, you tend to lose stringbed stiffness, and thus spin potential) than it is to change strokes.

so while i understand what you're saying, it's just a misunderstanding of what JR is trying to say. the 17 gauge provides more rpms with the same tension, stroke, etc, than a 16 gauge, causing the ball to drop sooner, and thuse achieve less depth. a lessening of tension will lower the effect of the string on the ball in terms of spin, allowing for less spin, and reaching the desired depth with a thinner, more playable string.

J011yroger
05-03-2008, 02:21 AM
in Hybrid, what are the benefits of the string on mains? crosses?

Mains: power?spin?feel?durability?

Crosses: power?Spin?feel?durability?

What's the typical thing should i look for? Thinking a hybrid of topspin Cyberpower and cyberflash. I'm not sure which should go to main and crosses.

I want a good spin and power but still as soft as a full Cyberpower.

thanks in advance.

The mains are really where it's at. Mains you are looking for your spin, and if you are not a string breaker, you go for feel, if you are a string breaker, then you can go for durability.

Crosses you are looking for a little bit of feel, or power. Or to soften up an otherwise too stiff stringbed. You can also look to save money in the crosses.

Sure there are examples that vary from this, but it is just a general thing.

Seems kind of silly to hybrid two polys, like you are just doing it for giggles or to look cool. But then again, who am I to tell you what to do.

J

ryanq
05-03-2008, 08:15 AM
The mains are really where it's at. Mains you are looking for your spin, and if you are not a string breaker, you go for feel, if you are a string breaker, then you can go for durability.

Crosses you are looking for a little bit of feel, or power. Or to soften up an otherwise too stiff stringbed. You can also look to save money in the crosses.

Sure there are examples that vary from this, but it is just a general thing.

Seems kind of silly to hybrid two polys, like you are just doing it for giggles or to look cool. But then again, who am I to tell you what to do.

J

Lol.. Well, I was thinking if I can get the Spin potential of the Cyberflash and get the power of Cyberpower... then everyone's happy!.> :-D

Thanks for the info though.

J011yroger
05-03-2008, 11:38 AM
Have you played a Cyberflash M / Syn Gut X?

That should give you decent poly spin, and a little more sting on your ball, as well as a softer stringbed for a bargain basement price.

J

ryanq
05-03-2008, 04:36 PM
yeah but in conclusion, I also don't like strings that move a lot---it's hurting my fingers (also dont like it when they fray). So far, the softest poly with power that i can find is the cyberpower. Or am I getting confused now? haha

Rei
05-07-2008, 10:12 PM
@J011yroger

Just a quick question, for a guy like me who never ever break a string from 4 years of tennis, would Natural Gut be my perfect choice? I play about 2 times a week, 2 hours each. Competitive tennis,
If so, which Natural Gut would you recommend, I don't mind the price, (but price somewhere in the middle is probably preferable).

Thanks!

J011yroger
05-08-2008, 02:41 PM
@J011yroger

Just a quick question, for a guy like me who never ever break a string from 4 years of tennis, would Natural Gut be my perfect choice? I play about 2 times a week, 2 hours each. Competitive tennis,
If so, which Natural Gut would you recommend, I don't mind the price, (but price somewhere in the middle is probably preferable).

Thanks!

Sure gut would serve you quite well, but I find that it dries out after a while.

You really can't go wrong with VS.

J

latinking
05-16-2008, 08:54 AM
J011yroger, you are giving some excellent advice. Good stuff!!


You seem to be helping allot of people out on here. Including me.

THX.

J011yroger
05-16-2008, 02:40 PM
J011yroger, you are giving some excellent advice. Good stuff!!


You seem to be helping allot of people out on here. Including me.

THX.

Thanks for the props, I try.

J

groundstroke
05-17-2008, 10:45 AM
awesome review, nicely done

hukstar
05-22-2008, 03:23 AM
polys are known to go dead after a couple hitting sessions... are synthetics the same only take longer?

justsomeecho
05-24-2008, 05:17 AM
hey jolly i was wondering:
what do you think about multi hybrids?
i just recently strung my racquets w/ the rip control 17 (c)and rip perfect power 16(m).

J011yroger
05-24-2008, 05:27 AM
hey jolly i was wondering:
what do you think about multi hybrids?
i just recently strung my racquets w/ the rip control 17 (c)and rip perfect power 16(m).

Why? What were you hoping to accomplish?

I always thought rip control mains and prince premier crosses would be a sweet blend, but never tried it.

J

justsomeecho
05-24-2008, 05:31 AM
Why? What were you hoping to accomplish?

I always thought rip control mains and prince premier crosses would be a sweet blend, but never tried it.

J

the perfect power is a great string that i absolutely love, but it breaks too fast, and rip control lasts longer.
i originally used luxilon fluoros w/ rip pp, but i've found that poly's lose tension after a good 3 setter, so i tried to use the controls to "replace" the luxilons.

J011yroger
05-24-2008, 05:43 PM
If it works for you then letter fly!

J

ryangoring
05-25-2008, 09:06 PM
to Jo11y or any others:
In a hybrid set up does the gauge of both types of string have to be the same. Example 16g mains and 16g cross.
Or it doesn't really matter!
I have alot of 18g gosen micro but the polys I have(thanks again shawn james) are either 17g or 16g.
Thanks!

Strawberry
05-25-2008, 09:09 PM
Can we talk about European cars in here J011y?

ryangoring
05-25-2008, 09:14 PM
Also another ?
Currently my rackets are strung @ 54lbs with just the 18g gosen micro.
I like the feel of it.
But in a hybrid set up @ the same lbs for main and crosses would it feel the same?
Or would I have to change the lbs on the mains(using poly) since they are in a lower gauge than the crosses(syn gut)
Example being mains either sp17, leopard plus control16 or topspin poly polar16 and the crosses would be the micro 18.
Thanks

Max Winther
05-25-2008, 09:36 PM
polys are known to go dead after a couple hitting sessions... are synthetics the same only take longer?

There are some polys out there that satisfy your complaint. They are usually referred to as 1st generation polys because they are the oldest and least advanced. Luxilon falls into this catergory. Then there are 2nd and 3rd generation polys that combine polyester with other additives that help the string maintain tension longer.

Synthetic gut maintains tension well, but its durability to someone that hits hard enough to even warrant using poly (see 1st post in this thread) is a drawback. One has to pick whether to use synthetic gut or multi till it breaks, or use poly till it loses too much tension. And with the advent of poly that maintains tension very well, many are choosing poly.

Max Winther
05-25-2008, 09:44 PM
Also another ?
Currently my rackets are strung @ 54lbs with just the 18g gosen micro.
I like the feel of it.
But in a hybrid set up @ the same lbs for main and crosses would it feel the same?
Or would I have to change the lbs on the mains(using poly) since they are in a lower gauge than the crosses(syn gut)
Example being mains either sp17, leopard plus control16 or topspin poly polar16 and the crosses would be the micro 18.
Thanks

You should drop the poly to around 50 just because poly is going to be a lot stiffer than 18g micro. If you were to string at 54 with the poly, you will experience a stiffer stringbed that you may or may not like.

It shouldn't matter what gauge it is. It's not that easy to tell the difference between an 18g string at 54 and the same string in a 16g at 54 based on stiffness alone. You should change tension mainly according to string type, not gauge. Once you get the tension where you like it, then you can start playing with the gauge-tension relationship, but remember to only change one at a time.

J011yroger
05-26-2008, 03:02 AM
Also another ?
Currently my rackets are strung @ 54lbs with just the 18g gosen micro.
I like the feel of it.
But in a hybrid set up @ the same lbs for main and crosses would it feel the same?
Or would I have to change the lbs on the mains(using poly) since they are in a lower gauge than the crosses(syn gut)
Example being mains either sp17, leopard plus control16 or topspin poly polar16 and the crosses would be the micro 18.
Thanks

You would have to lower the tension of the poly about 5 lb to make them feel closer to the gosen.

J

J011yroger
05-26-2008, 03:03 AM
to Jo11y or any others:
In a hybrid set up does the gauge of both types of string have to be the same. Example 16g mains and 16g cross.
Or it doesn't really matter!
I have alot of 18g gosen micro but the polys I have(thanks again shawn james) are either 17g or 16g.
Thanks!

Nope doesn't matter.

String up whatever gagues you want.

J

J011yroger
05-26-2008, 03:03 AM
Can we talk about European cars in here J011y?

Sure, just don't expect me to.

J

ryangoring
05-26-2008, 03:29 AM
Thank you for the help: Max Winther and Jo11y Roger!

J011yroger
05-26-2008, 03:34 AM
Sure, let us know how it works out.

J

Strawberry
05-26-2008, 01:55 PM
I just started using Luxilon Big Banger Alu Power.
How long can I expect it to perform well?
I play about 6 days a week, roughly 2 hours each day.

J

J011yroger
05-26-2008, 02:41 PM
I just started using Luxilon Big Banger Alu Power.
How long can I expect it to perform well?
I play about 6 days a week, roughly 2 hours each day.

J

I know nothing about your game, but it plays great for an hour, and ok for the second hour for me.

J

Strawberry
05-26-2008, 02:57 PM
Thanks!

J

LuisFerBabolat
05-26-2008, 10:43 PM
Hey J011yroger: you said: "You can't really put a timer on it, that is why I like the grab a main and pull it out of position, let go, and see how fast it boings back into position test.

I mean, I can break ALU in under 2 hours, while there are people who could play with it for 20+ and not even put a hint of a notch in it."

What do you mean by grabbing the main and pulling it out of position? How about if the strings is kind of "fused" into the cross string? I'm currently using PHT and XCell @ 58 lbs both, and do not break strings, but lose tension fast. do you thing using PHT @ 56/Xcell @ 58 will help at all?

AlpineCadet
05-26-2008, 10:57 PM
Hey J011yroger: you said: "You can't really put a timer on it, that is why I like the grab a main and pull it out of position, let go, and see how fast it boings back into position test.

I mean, I can break ALU in under 2 hours, while there are people who could play with it for 20+ and not even put a hint of a notch in it."

What do you mean by grabbing the main and pulling it out of position? How about if the strings is kind of "fused" into the cross string? I'm currently using PHT and XCell @ 58 lbs both, and do not break strings, but lose tension fast. do you thing using PHT @ 56/Xcell @ 58 will help at all?
FYI: J011yroger leads up his +13oz frames in a polarized setup, so the club probably demands high racket head speeds. With all the torque applied to the ball, he'll easily notch full poly within half an hour. As for regular folks who don't have such an excessive racket-head speed, we can afford to string lower, while still making the most out of the full poly (to an extent.)

J011yroger
05-27-2008, 03:04 AM
What do you mean by grabbing the main and pulling it out of position? How about if the strings is kind of "fused" into the cross string? I'm currently using PHT and XCell @ 58 lbs both, and do not break strings, but lose tension fast. do you thing using PHT @ 56/Xcell @ 58 will help at all?

Pulling a main out of position and seeing it snap back is only for full jobs, not hybrids.

Will stringing lower help with losing tension?

No.

J