POG mid string questions

[m_b]

I'm a recent convert to the POG mid and own a couple of them. They play like a dream. Those things are pure genius. They compare favourably to anything else I've played and it's hard to believe they were released more than 20 years ago.

One issue though, a string snapped clean after only a few hours of play and I'm not a habitual string breaker. I know this racquet has a reputation for eating strings up due to its very open string pattern, but it could be my fault - this was my first string job (just got a stringing machine, too) and I must have set the clamps too tight, judging by the marks left on the strings - I can't see how this could not diminish the string's resilience. Regardless, I find that the strings move around an awful lot on the POG - compared to my previous Volkl Tour 10 MPs (16 x 19 pattern) and other racquets I've tried.

What would be a way to minimize string breakage and movement? Could increasing tension be a solution? (I was going to do that anyway - being unfamiliar with the racquet I strung it first at the mid point recommended tension). How about hybriding? Does having a stiffer string (like a poly) in the mains reduce string movement ? The string that broke which I was using was Gosen .17 synthetic gut of which I got a full roll - very good string IMO.

I recently tried the Big Banger string on a different racquet and found it surprisingly easy to play. Very easy in fact, not even uncomfortable. Tempting to try. But maybe polys work like drugs... the deadly effects begin to appear only after you've tried them a few times... see I'm still a bit wary of poly strings because so many people seem go get tennis elbow because of them. TE is not worth risking in my view. So how does this work? Does hybrid stringing mitigate the risks ?

[TW Staff]

I'm a recent convert to the POG mid and own a couple of them. They play like a dream. Those things are pure genius. They compare favourably to anything else I've played and it's hard to believe they were released more than 20 years ago.

One issue though, a string snapped clean after only a few hours of play and I'm not a habitual string breaker. I know this racquet has a reputation for eating strings up due to its very open string pattern, but it could be my fault - this was my first string job (just got a stringing machine, too) and I must have set the clamps too tight, judging by the marks left on the strings - I can't see how this could not diminish the string's resilience. Regardless, I find that the strings move around an awful lot on the POG - compared to my previous Volkl Tour 10 MPs (16 x 19 pattern) and other racquets I've tried.

What would be a way to minimize string breakage and movement? Could increasing tension be a solution? (I was going to do that anyway - being unfamiliar with the racquet I strung it first at the mid point recommended tension). How about hybriding? Does having a stiffer string (like a poly) in the mains reduce string movement ? The string that broke which I was using was Gosen .17 synthetic gut of which I got a full roll - very good string IMO.

I recently tried the Big Banger string on a different racquet and found it surprisingly easy to play. Very easy in fact, not even uncomfortable. Tempting to try. But maybe polys work like drugs... the deadly effects begin to appear only after you've tried them a few times... see I'm still a bit wary of poly strings because so many people seem go get tennis elbow because of them. TE is not worth risking in my view. So how does this work? Does hybrid stringing mitigate the risks ?

If you don't want to change your string, you can either tighten your tension or keep your tension the same and add string savers in the string bed. Tightening your tension will give you less durability. A 17 gauge synthetic gut string won't last long in your open string pattern POG. A couple other routes, would be to increase your string gauge thickness or switching to a polyester string like you said. The stiffer the string, the less string bed movement.

Danny, TW

[mozzer]

Depends what strings you were using. If u used full syngut then a poly/syngut hybrid would be more durable.

[goosala]

I own three POG mids. I say go with a thicker gauge but keep the same tension.

[GeoffB]

I have a couple of POG mids (though I bought a PDR recently). Yes, they are string eaters, but they are also wonderful rackets.

I use signum pro poly plasma (16) for the mains and a synthetic gut for the crosses. It definitely improves the durability, and it doesn't feel especially harsh.

By the way, you're making the right call stringing these rackets yourself. The downside of the POG Mid is that it's a string eater - but the upside is that the open pattern makes it one of the easier frames to string yourself. Signum pro poly + a cheap synthetic gut could (if you buy reels) get your stringing job down to about $5 a racket. If you go pure synthetic gut, could be as little as $2. At this point, it's the hassle rather than the money that might deter you from synthetic gut.

Of course, I can't say if the snapped string is your string job or the racket... if you aren't a habitual string breaker, maybe try synthetic gut a couple more times (assuming you like the way it plays). POG Mids are string eaters, but to go from not breaking strings to popping one in two hours? I'm not ready to conclude it's the POG quite yet, I'd give it another couple tries.

[BkK_b0y14]

Try 16 gauge strings strung at under 60 lbs. And if you still break them in a matter of hours, like me, you have something to brag about :) just kidding.

[m_b]

Hey guys, I didn't have time to log in these past days, just wanted to say thank you for the very helpful replies.

When I first saw the POG stringed - my first job - the pattern looked really strange to me. A guy at my club who has a 18x20 said to me, you did it wrong, you must have skipped a few strings, this thing will be unplayable.

About the recommendation to go for a .16 gauge: it's just too bad I got a full 200m reel of .17 !! : )

I may well take the hybrid pro poly plasma route... if it turns out to be too much of a hassle I'll go back to full syn gut...

Thanks for the recommendations.

About the cost - I made a quick calculation, I think it was even less than $2 equivalent per job... in sports stores where I live they charge an insane minimum $45 per job ; a multifilament job would cost me the equivalent of $60. So even without the string-eater it could be quite a budget if I wanted to change strings often.