View Full Version : Tour 90 Sweetspot
Where exactly is the the sweetspot for the Wilson ProStaff Tour 90 (non-nCoded)? The wear pattern on my Tour 90 is of the 5 middle cross strings that come out of the pws and somewhat above. Should I use lead tape to adjust the sweetspot? Where should I put it? How much should I put? What is the easiest way to put on lead tape? Thanks
05-28-2005, 01:51 PM
What is the easiest way to put on lead tape?
I find that if you peel off the adhesive backing then place it on the racquet surface, that works pretty well.
I experimented with staples and thumbtacks, but they kept falling out during overheads, which is both inconvenient and potentially dangerous.
05-28-2005, 01:59 PM
try lead tape at 2 and 10 o'clock
or give tour 95 a try
05-28-2005, 02:24 PM
It depends on what you mean by "sweet spot," but the center of percussion (COP) should be around 57.6 to 58.0 cm, depending on your set-up (measured from the butt cap). Moving the sweet spot higher could make the racquet less maneuverable, and moving it lower could make it less comfortable. Shots hit below the sweet spot push the racquet back into the hand (generally more comfortable), while shots hit above the sweet spot pull the racquet away from the hand (generally less comfortable).
05-28-2005, 03:52 PM
Even though Wilson designs the Pro Staff series with sweet spot located at the bottom half of the string bed, you can still use lead tape to move the sweet spot. In fact, if you watch Federer and Sampras's photos and you'll find that the W stencil on their rackets are at the top half and the wear pattern is pretty consistant (the middle brench of the letter "W"). In fact, when I do overhead and serveing, I do hit the balls at the middle or even a bit higher of the string bed of my nSix-One Tour 90, while base line and volley I tend to hit at the bottom half (the "nominal" location of the sweet spot). The more important of using Pro Staff is that you can't be lazy. You have to use your whole body and its kinetic to guide the racket to hit the ball.
So it seems like most are writing on this thread that putting lead tape at 2 and 10 o'clock on the racquet head would be the best for raising the sweetspot a little higher on the string bed. With my wear pattern in mind, how much lead tape should I put and how should I do so (layers, etc.)? Along with the previous question, how much would that amount of wait alter the balance? Also, I am not lazy while using this racquet. This is a racquet that demands a full swing at all times, and that is why I enjoy using this racquet to force myself to fully play tennis. Thanks for all the answers so far and those that are hopefully to come.
05-28-2005, 05:18 PM
I put my lead on my PST90 at various places. Experiment is the best thing to do. OK, this is what I did.
I bought those "Wilson Swingweight Adjustment Leads". They come in a pack of eight, each black strip is about 2" and 3 grams in weight. I cut them in pieces of 1 sq. cm. each. Just don't worry about the exact weight for the time being.
Take your racket and the weights to play with your partner. Now it's experiment time. Place the leads at various places on the racket. Find what feels best for you.
Don't forget that when your put weight in the head the "tail" feels lighter. You may want to consider putting weight on the racket butt too. (I do that). Try various weight distribution configurations and you'll come up with something you'll feel right.
Also, some weight configuration will be good with certain tension of certain string.
I distribute my weights at 10, 2 and 5:30-6:30. I place two pieces under the butt and one piece above the handle. I string my PST90 with Tecnifiber Polyspin and 60 lbs.
The stick is just a hell of a weapon now.
05-28-2005, 05:20 PM
ittle lower than the center sweetspot...
05-28-2005, 08:16 PM
It's fun to customerize the weight of your racket. However, it's always better that you have 2 or 3 rackets of the same model and keep 1 as stock as reference. Also if you're completely new for customerizing the weight of your rackets, you can gonna a tennis store and tell the technician what you want, and get the racket back to compare with the stock form one. Then later you can do your own one easier. (Actually I think I need a bit extra weight to shift the center of mass of my nSix-One a bit lower to match my for-fun stock form of Pro Staff 85)
How would grip size determine weight? I have 2 Tour 90 racquets in L4 and 1 Tour 90 racquet in L3. Does grip size have any effect on the sweetspot or anything else?
05-28-2005, 11:00 PM
From my experience, for all stock form, the grip size shouldn't vary the location of center of mass. However, if you're using tape (I prefer tape since heat shrink sleeve is a bit heavier for the same size enlargement) to get 1 grip size larger, usually the center will "feel" like shifting down about 1 to 2 cm (coz I never actually ask the string guy to measure it for me. Also, when you play with the racket, the actual feeling on your hand is more important than the whole bunch of numbers of spec in your mind. Anyway, for my nSix-One Tour 90, when I swing it, it feels that it shifts down about 1.5cm, but I'd still add a little lead tape later to futher lower it down to match the weight distribution of my Pro Staff 85)
So the grip size has no effect on weight?
05-29-2005, 09:46 AM
As what I said in the last post, if you're talking about stock grips, that is, you haven't done any resizing jobs on them, then various grip sizes of the same model stick shouldn't have or only have very little effect on the weight (otherwise we have to have the spec sheet like "xxxx racket, grip size L1 weight xx.x oz, x.x point headlight/heavy; Grip size L2 weight XX.X oz, x.x point headlight/heavy; Grip size L3 weight xx.x oz, x.x point headlight/heavy..." instead of a single spec). However, if you're talking something like between stock L5 and resized from L2 to L5, then there'd definitely be different.
05-29-2005, 06:26 PM
It's my understanding that, before the foam pallets are injected around the "hair pin" (the graphite portion of the racquet), manufacturers weigh the "hair pin." Lighter frames get smaller pallets, and heavier frames receive larger pallets. If this is true, then not only would there be more weight in the pallet material on a frame with a larger grip size, but the "hair pin" itself could start out heavier.
06-01-2005, 08:35 PM
String it at 70 pounds like I do and it will be at the center of the frame.
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