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fgzhu88
09-11-2010, 11:13 PM
After stringing less than 20 racquets, I absolutely hate these inconvenient plastic concoctions that came with my Gamma X-2. Yet I always read testimonies of people who have strung hundreds of racquets with a dropweight who are "happy" with their setup.

First off, why must they always grip two parallel adjacent strings? I'm guessing there is a physical reason why they can't grip just one string like fixed clamps.

Second, where is the proper place to clamp: dangling from the underside of your stringbed (like I see in most video tutorials), or "floating" on top (this is why the terminology always confused me re: "floating" being synonymous with "flying"). such as in this picture: http://www.keohi.com/tennis/laserfibre/images/27.gif (maybe only possible on crosses?)

Lastly, is it possible to do these with flying clamps:

box pattern (the parts where you have to tension a single cross string (with no other crosses to hold on to)
50-50 pattern (with starting clamp of course) * small sidenote question re 50-50: why starting clamps? It seems as though you are simply starting from the center out just like mains except with the additional hassle of weaving.
start crosses w/out double pulling


I was really thinking about getting a stringway m90 ASAP, but now I realize I should probably at least master the x-2

I realize there are a lot of questions posed in this thread, but I am in no hurry and don't need all the answers in one post :)

dancraig
09-12-2010, 02:58 AM
First off, why must they always grip two parallel adjacent strings? I'm guessing there is a physical reason why they can't grip just one string like fixed clamps.

Because they aren't "fixed" to anything, they have to attach to something .... so it's the adjacent string they get "fixed" to.

Second, where is the proper place to clamp: dangling from the underside of your stringbed (like I see in most video tutorials), or "floating" on top (this is why the terminology always confused me re: "floating" being synonymous with "flying"). such as in this picture: http://www.keohi.com/tennis/laserfibre/images/27.gif (maybe only possible on crosses?)

Most people attach the clamp under the stringbed.

Irvin
09-12-2010, 03:41 AM
...
Lastly, is it possible to do these with flying clamps:

box pattern (the parts where you have to tension a single cross string (with no other crosses to hold on to)
50-50 pattern (with starting clamp of course) * small sidenote question re 50-50: why starting clamps? It seems as though you are simply starting from the center out just like mains except with the additional hassle of weaving.
start crosses w/out double pulling

...

* Box Pattern - Yes but you would have to double pull string so you would have something to clamp to
* 50-50 Pattern (with a starting clamp of course) - no problem but do you mean a 1 piece or two piece?
* Start crosses w/out double pulling - no problem especially with a starting clamp

Irvin

fgzhu88
09-12-2010, 10:13 AM
Because they aren't "fixed" to anything, they have to attach to something .... so it's the adjacent string they get "fixed" to.


I realized just how stupid that questions was and intended to come here to edit it out :)


* 50-50 Pattern (with a starting clamp of course) - no problem but do you mean a 1 piece or two piece?
* Start crosses w/out double pulling - no problem especially with a starting clamp

Irvin

* for 50-50, I mean two piece, and just on the crosses
* could please elaborate on "starting crosses w/out double-pulling"? For this one, I'm talking about one-piece stringing and simply can't picture how to do so w/out double pulling (I guess it's not that big a deal as I normally like my crosses to be slightly looser). However couldn't crosses theoretically be clamped w/out anchoring to an adjacent cross string? I'm thinking that the clamp "teeth" will prevent the cross from slipping since they are obtruded by the mains



Also, can anyone (w/ a klippermate) explain how the "starting pin" works, and how I could use a piece of scrap string to achieve the same effect (step-by-step)?

Irvin
09-12-2010, 11:29 AM
...
* for 50-50, I mean two piece, and just on the crosses
* could please elaborate on "starting crosses w/out double-pulling"? For this one, I'm talking about one-piece stringing and simply can't picture how to do so w/out double pulling (I guess it's not that big a deal as I normally like my crosses to be slightly looser). However couldn't crosses theoretically be clamped w/out anchoring to an adjacent cross string? I'm thinking that the clamp "teeth" will prevent the cross from slipping since they are obtruded by the mains



Also, can anyone (w/ a klippermate) explain how the "starting pin" works, and how I could use a piece of scrap string to achieve the same effect (step-by-step)?

For 50/50 start your crosses just like you do the mains.

Starting crosses without double pulling use a Klippermate starting pin (http://www.klipperusa.com/products/productdetail.php?catnum=A748). I guess you could use a scrap piece of string but you will probably get a lot of twiting on the clamp that way and the starting pin would be better. The starting pin is inserted in the grommet hole next to the string you are tensioning. There is a piece of plastic on the end of the pin the keeps the pin from being pulled through. You clamp the tensioned string and the pin at the same time and the pin, being held by the frame, keeps the tensioned string from losing tension. Problem is this pin was designed for the mains not crosses. Therefore you are going to have to start on the second cross then the first and back to the third to get the pin out.

I seen a video on Youtube once about the starting pin but the user called it a tool. I will try to find it for you.

Irvin

Irvin
09-12-2010, 11:42 AM
Here is that video on the starting pin it comes in about 7:30 in the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnqaoOEaq60

Irvin

fgzhu88
09-12-2010, 07:29 PM
thanks for all the help Irvin!

I'm guessing a substitute to the starting pin can be achieved by tieing off a piece of scrap string on the outside of the frame (on the same side as the side you're tensioning)

Irvin
09-13-2010, 03:02 AM
^^ Give it a try it might work but I am guessing it will not. There is no stiffness to the scrap piece of string so I think the one under tension will have too much twist and you will lose all your tension.

Irvin

lionel_101
09-13-2010, 05:47 AM
I have the X-2 and it doesn't come with a starting pin. Instead, I use a foot long scrap piece of string with a big knot on one end as a starting string instead.

After I tension the main string I am working on, I put the starting string in a grommet next to the main string I am tensioning and pull the starting string tight as I can and clamp the 2 strings together. When you release the string from the tensioner, you can see the knot being pulled tight against the frame.

It seems to hold the tension ok. I don't think a metal starting pin would be any different, as it will be pulled against the frame as well. It might be easier to use, since you don't have to pull it tight before clamping.

I have to use a starting string quite often with the racquetball racquets I string. Someday, I will buy a stringing pin from Klippermate and see how it works out.

Irvin
09-13-2010, 05:56 AM
Good to know a scrap string works also, I had my doubts.

Irvin

fgzhu88
09-13-2010, 08:45 PM
good info guys, I think I'll finally be able to start my mains w/out as much tension loss as before.

One last question:
for two piece stringing, could I start off the crosses by pulling the first two crosses (not double pull, but feeding both tips into the tensioner), clamp, and then tie a finishing knot on top and from there finish the remaining crosses like normal? That seems to be the easiest way to do two piece using just flying clamps w/out double pulling (don't know exactly how the tension will be distributed on the first pull)

Irvin
09-14-2010, 03:24 AM
^^ That would be worse than double pulling. sounds like you could benefit from a starting pin or the scrap string method to start crosses.

Irvin