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kenshireen
02-03-2012, 01:13 PM
I have a bab star 2-1985.

When I string my wilson ps 7.0 the length decreases by almost 1/4 inch.
I have all the mounting brackets set and I marked the platform with a marker to ensure that it did not move during the stringing.

I have 6 of these rackets- 50% fiberglass and all of them are shortened... When I cut the strings out they go back to 27 inches.

Any help on this..

Thanks,
Ken

Irvin
02-03-2012, 01:30 PM
Isn't that the one with the little screws to hold down the outside supports? Maybe you don't have the tight enough and the width of the racket is expanding too much. Try putting a bit more pressure on the supports and see if that helps.

kenshireen
02-03-2012, 03:23 PM
yes.. i do have the ones with the thumb screws.
I was told to finger tighten only.

When I tighten more than finger tight I have trouble releasing the thumb screws when I am done with the racket since they are sooo tight. I assume that as the length declines the sides push outward.

thank you for your suggestion but I do not think that is the solution..

Regards,
Ken

bugeyed
02-03-2012, 03:58 PM
My first thought is what Irvin said.
You say that the mounting hardware is not moving? When you finish stringing & before you remove the racquet, is the racquet short? If so, something DID move. These racquets could be worn out & become soft in the corners of the hoop.

Cheers,
kev

Irvin
02-03-2012, 04:09 PM
yes.. i do have the ones with the thumb screws.
I was told to finger tighten only.

When I tighten more than finger tight I have trouble releasing the thumb screws when I am done with the racket since they are sooo tight. I assume that as the length declines the sides push outward.

thank you for your suggestion but I do not think that is the solution..

Regards,
Ken

I meant the inside supports not the thumb screws. How are the 6 and 12 o'clock supports adjusted?

Steve Huff
02-03-2012, 09:27 PM
Try tensioning the crosses tighter than the mains. If you normally string at say 55#, drop the mains to 53 and up the crosses to 58. You might have to experiment to see what feels right, but 5 pounds or so should help keep the racket in its original shape.

coachrick
02-03-2012, 11:26 PM
There's a fair chance that the mounting tower itself is canting forward. If it's not dead flat on the turntable, this can happen easily.

Irvin
02-04-2012, 01:50 AM
There's a fair chance that the mounting tower itself is canting forward. If it's not dead flat on the turntable, this can happen easily.

That is what I was thinking. If the towers are adjusted by being pulled from the top and then tightened maybe they cant in when tension is pulled.

kenshireen
02-04-2012, 06:47 AM
The racquet is mounted with the posts (6 and 12 o'clock) against the inside of the frame.. I thumb tighten the two outside fine tuning knobs (not the thumb screws)..

After the racket is snug at these 2 points I attach the thumb screws--first at 4 and 8 and then 10 and 2).

I make sure that the knobs at the bottom on the plate are very tight since this controls whether the platform is going to slide... I then mark the top plate on both sides to make sure that when the mains are strung that the platform did not move..

Now as far as canting....i.e. platform not moving but tilting forward/backwards.. I am not sure how to determine this... Both end sections look flush at the bottom.

The PS 7.0 110is a very head light racquet..10 points at least. Also a very flexy racket...mid 50's. The racket dates back to the early 90's.

I have had 2 of them crack right above the Wilson "weight"
at 9:00..

I strung a Wilson Kblade Team and when I had complete the mains and half the crosses it had dropped almost 1/2 inch but when I finished up and measured it was just about back to where it was when I started..

By the way.. I live in Kennesaw...

coachrick
02-04-2012, 07:52 AM
I have had 2 of them crack right above the Wilson "weight"
at 9:00..


By the way.. I live in Kennesaw...

Make sure the 4 outer supports are as close to the 3 & 9 o'clock position to give greatest support against 'bulging' at the PWS lump. Plenty of '80s/'90s Wilson PWS(we called them pMs) frames were fragile in this area(Aire Shell anyone?) . I'd even consider a one-piece 50/50 pattern starting the crosses in the middle. This will stabilize the PWS area and stop the bulging.

A lot of these frames were strung on the gahd-awful Prince 100 and 200. It didn't take but ONE pMs frame cracking unexpectedly to really get your attention. ;)

Used to be some great bicycle riding out Kennesaw-way; before the Marietta CC moved way the heck out(along with a zillion people)...ca 1988> .

bugeyed
02-04-2012, 09:33 AM
The racquet is mounted with the posts (6 and 12 o'clock) against the inside of the frame.. I thumb tighten the two outside fine tuning knobs (not the thumb screws)..

After the racket is snug at these 2 points I attach the thumb screws--first at 4 and 8 and then 10 and 2).

I make sure that the knobs at the bottom on the plate are very tight since this controls whether the platform is going to slide... I then mark the top plate on both sides to make sure that when the mains are strung that the platform did not move..

Now as far as canting....i.e. platform not moving but tilting forward/backwards.. I am not sure how to determine this... Both end sections look flush at the bottom.

The PS 7.0 110is a very head light racquet..10 points at least. Also a very flexy racket...mid 50's. The racket dates back to the early 90's.

I have had 2 of them crack right above the Wilson "weight"
at 9:00..

I strung a Wilson Kblade Team and when I had complete the mains and half the crosses it had dropped almost 1/2 inch but when I finished up and measured it was just about back to where it was when I started..

By the way.. I live in Kennesaw...

If the frame moved 1/2 inch, you should be able to tell where the movement in the mounting system changed! Measure the spacing between the towers, check that the turntable is flat, check the 6 & 12 billiards to see if they are still vertical etc. Do this before tension & when the mains are in. You should see something change. IMO

Cheers,
kev

Steve Huff
02-04-2012, 04:58 PM
Another thing you can try is to lay something flat, like a ruler, on the machines table. Lay it lengthwise, from mounting arm to mounting arm. If you can't see any air beneath the arms, and it's moving inward 1/2", maybe your table is flexing. That would be rare with a Babolat, but it's possible. If this is the case, you'd be able to see some space under the ruler as the table flexed. Also, don't string any crosses from the bottom to top.

kenshireen
02-05-2012, 08:38 PM
I just restrung one of my 7.0 and instead of using one piece and doing the crossses from the bottom up I did a 2 piece and strong the crosses from the top down... I also moved the 4 thumb screws to get as close to mid point on the racket.

It did not shrink.

bruintennis
03-02-2012, 04:02 PM
This happened to me last night. I restrung my Yonex RD Ti-80 with a multi (1.25) on the mains and ALU rough on the crosses. When I finished, the racquet came out 1/16th of an inch shorter. I didn't like that, so I cut out the strings and restrung it and same thing. It came out 1/16th shorter. I'm thinking that maybe it's the multis on the main and co-poly on the crosses. This was the first time I tried this combo. I normally play with the poly on the mains and multi on the crosses.

I did notice when I removed the racquet off the stringer that the 6 and 12'oclock mounts were slightly tighter than when I mounted the racquet. I strung it at 52lbs mains and 51lbs crosses.

What do you think?