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View Full Version : Butt-Cap stapling: Hansen Tacker


scotus
03-05-2012, 12:04 PM
I posted this earlier in the racquet forum, but so far, no answers, so let me try it here:


Just acquired a used Hansen Tacker.

I don't really know what the 2 loose parts on the right are supposed to be. The tacker shoots staples without those loose parts.

Let me know if you have experience with this tacker.

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn51/dscotus/DSCF2725.jpg

Geoff
03-05-2012, 12:18 PM
I posted this earlier in the racquet forum, but so far, no answers, so let me try it here:


Just acquired a used Hansen Tacker.

I don't really know what the 2 loose parts on the right are supposed to be. The tacker shoots staples without those loose parts.

Let me know if you have experience with this tacker.

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn51/dscotus/DSCF2725.jpg

I have had the exact stapler for over 35 years. I am not 100% sure but the 2 extra parts are helpful if the stapler is jammed. I have never had a reason to use them.

coachrick
03-05-2012, 01:31 PM
That looks like the slide to me...I haven't used a Hansen in years; but it sure looks like the 'pusher' slide that would feed the staples into position.(But, now that I think about it, that piece is too heavy and cumbersome for that)

At first glance, it looked like an edge guide to maintain a consistent distance for staples. For example, the guide would be positioned a certain distance from the end of a piece of furniture being upholstered so that the line of staples would be uniform.

I've owned a bunch of staplers over the years...I'll be interested in knowing the correct answer. ;) Maybe I've been doing something wrong for four decades! :)

This is a more complicated version of what I envisioned:
http://www.amazon.com/RotoZip-SEG1-Straight-Edge-Guide/dp/B00006AGPJ

oldtimer
03-05-2012, 03:25 PM
Scotus,

That piece is called the Hansen Channel Cleaner. Looks like the welds failed as the small piece should be spot welded to the longer piece for ease of use. You remove the feeder bar, the cap and jaw, and push the Cleaner tool through front to back. We've used these for years.

scotus
03-05-2012, 03:37 PM
Scotus,

That piece is called the Hansen Channel Cleaner. Looks like the welds failed as the small piece should be spot welded to the longer piece for ease of use. You remove the feeder bar, the cap and jaw, and push the Cleaner tool through front to back. We've used these for years.

Thanks,

So will the long piece work without the small piece welded to it?

oldtimer
03-05-2012, 04:19 PM
It would probably work but I suggest you try some super-glue and adhere the little L shaped piece to the long piece. It goes in the channel of the long piece postitoned so the total length is 8 inches.

scotus
03-05-2012, 07:08 PM
Ok, I have located the picture of what the tool is supposed to like:

http://www.wertherdisplays.com/cart/images/staple_gun_HP61.jpg?osCsid=e0d4351806b2122d4c3a087 a0c4cb70d

scotus
03-05-2012, 07:09 PM
Thank you, oldtimer, Geoff, and coachrick.

I'll revisit this thread if I have any more questions about this tacker.

scotus
03-06-2012, 09:56 AM
Well, one problem.

The short staples (1/4 inch long, No. 24) that the seller included with the purchase arrived split into thousands of tiny pieces, rather than long sticks.

I find that these staples don't penetrate anything, not even a thin cardboard, and I am not sure whether something is wrong with the tacker or it just needs a long stick of staples.

Let me ask you this. Is this the only place that sells Hansen staples for the T2 model?
http://www.southern-importers.com/staplers.html

oldtimer
03-06-2012, 11:41 AM
You can get staples from Hansen (hansentacker.com). I noticed in your picture of the T2 that it looks like the front jaw isn't seated under the jaw stop. If that's the case it would explain your problem. Press the cap downward and push the jaw back making sure the lip slides up and under the jaw stop. Other than lots of work handling the loose staples it shouldn't have any affect on the tacker's ability to drive a staple. I have an instruction sheet I could send if you still have problems.

scotus
03-06-2012, 12:12 PM
You can get staples from Hansen (hansentacker.com). I noticed in your picture of the T2 that it looks like the front jaw isn't seated under the jaw stop. If that's the case it would explain your problem. Press the cap downward and push the jaw back making sure the lip slides up and under the jaw stop. Other than lots of work handling the loose staples it shouldn't have any affect on the tacker's ability to drive a staple. I have an instruction sheet I could send if you still have problems.

I noticed that problem, too. When shooting with the jaw out of position, it was shooting multiple staples at once and not penetrating anything.

But when I seated the jaw under the jaw stop, there was no staple shooting out. I still hear the same pop, but nothing comes out.

For the instruction sheet, the seller gave me one for the T-35 model. It looks similar, but maybe I can benefit from the T-2 instruction sheet.

scotus
03-06-2012, 12:19 PM
The jaw is seated correctly now, or is it still wrong?

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn51/dscotus/DSCF2730.jpg

scotus
03-06-2012, 12:31 PM
Aha! The feeder bar knob wasn't connected tightly enough. I had it connected to the big circle on the feeder spring rather than the small one that is shaped like a water droplet.

All right, looks like the tacker works. Now I just need to order some longer staples.

Thanks again, oldtimer.

coachrick
03-06-2012, 01:00 PM
All right, looks like the tacker works. Now I just need to order some longer staples..


Looks like these folks have what you need:
http://www.wertherdisplays.com/cart/index.php?cPath=30&osCsid=e064aea2d4f93803ef1bdd2282604182

jamauss
03-06-2012, 01:09 PM
To take good care of the end of the pallets that the butt cap gets stapled to - wrap the pallets a couple of times with friction tape (like what hockey players put on their sticks). This will help prevent splintering of the pallets and since it's really thin tape it shouldn't prevent the butt cap from still sliding on to the pallets easily.

scotus
03-06-2012, 01:16 PM
Many thanks, coachrick & jamauss.

scotus
03-06-2012, 04:24 PM
Which length do you guys think is the better choice for stapling buttcaps:

5/16 inch or 3/8 inch?

jamauss
03-07-2012, 09:43 AM
to me the length isn't as important as the type of staple - are you using crown staples or what? I've found lately that using small nails actually works better than staples but I've used crown staples in the past - I think they were 3/8 in length

scotus
03-07-2012, 10:00 AM
to me the length isn't as important as the type of staple - are you using crown staples or what? I've found lately that using small nails actually works better than staples but I've used crown staples in the past - I think they were 3/8 in length

This particular tacker uses very narrow crown staples.

The crown is only 1/8 inch.

rich s
03-07-2012, 11:53 AM
Which length do you guys think is the better choice for stapling buttcaps:

5/16 inch or 3/8 inch?

3/8............

scotus
03-07-2012, 07:23 PM
Thanks, rich s.

jamauss
03-08-2012, 07:39 AM
The crown staples I used to use I got from Home Depot. I don't do my own butt cap stapling anymore though, I take them to a tennis shop that does the taping/nail method for me.

Kot_Bigemot
03-21-2012, 07:29 AM
Hi guys.
If anyone has one for sale, i would be interested in purchasing.
Lately it became an issue for me. More and more kids coming back to me with loose butt caps and mostly on Babolat racquets. I never had so many loose butt caps to repair. Not sure why this is happening..is it due to Babolat's QA or something else.

Irvin
03-21-2012, 07:43 AM
Hi guys.
If anyone has one for sale, i would be interested in purchasing.
Lately it became an issue for me. More and more kids coming back to me with loose butt caps and mostly on Babolat racquets. I never had so many loose butt caps to repair. Not sure why this is happening..is it due to Babolat's QA or something else.

http://www.hansentacker.com/tacker.htm

Kot_Bigemot
03-21-2012, 07:47 AM
http://www.hansentacker.com/tacker.htm

Thanks Irvin. I did email those guys but, got no response what so ever. Not sure if they still operate the business.
I will wait, see may be someone from Hansen will reply.

Irvin
03-21-2012, 10:18 AM
Thanks Irvin. I did email those guys but, got no response what so ever. Not sure if they still operate the business.
I will wait, see may be someone from Hansen will reply.

Try Google
http://www.core77.com/ultimategiftguide/2010/12/the-hansen-tacker.asp

oldtimer
03-21-2012, 02:41 PM
Kot Bigemot: I have a few of the T2 tackers of which I would be willing to sell one. I couldn't find an email address for you but if you'll let me know how to contact you probably we can work out something.

FYI: Hansen isn't making the T2 anymore. I agree they are difficult to get a call back and emails amost always go unanswered.

scotus
03-22-2012, 12:25 AM
Kot Bigemot: I have a few of the T2 tackers of which I would be willing to sell one. I couldn't find an email address for you but if you'll let me know how to contact you probably we can work out something.

FYI: Hansen isn't making the T2 anymore. I agree they are difficult to get a call back and emails amost always go unanswered.

Oldtimer,

I have a question for you regarding the T2. Please contact me at asyluke yahoo.

scotus
03-22-2012, 12:33 AM
Ok,

I just received a new box of staples (3/8 inch) directly from Hansen.

The problem is that the staples are not penetrating the graphite hairpin.

When I pull out the staple, I can see that the ends are bent out of shape. These staples look thinner and flimsier than the staples that racquet manufacturers use.

Did Hansen use to make their staples denser and stronger before? I don't know what to make of this.

Pneumated1
03-22-2012, 06:39 AM
Ok,

I just received a new box of staples (3/8 inch) directly from Hansen.

The problem is that the staples are not penetrating the graphite hairpin.

When I pull out the staple, I can see that the ends are bent out of shape. These staples look thinner and flimsier than the staples that racquet manufacturers use.

Did Hansen use to make their staples denser and stronger before? I don't know what to make of this.

I disassembled the pallets/butt cap on my Becker racquets some time ago. The advice that I was given was to just use spray adhesive/silicone to reinstall the pallets and butt cap. Well, the butt cap never budged from the pallets, but the pallets actually slid a 1/4", considering that I hold the racquet a little off the bottom of the butt cap.

So, I need advice in two areas, much like you:

1) How would you guys reinstall the pallets---with spray adhesive, as I have done, or would you use double sided tape? If double sided tape, should I wrap it around the hairpin only, or should I put it on both the inside of the pallets and the hairpin?

2) I'll need to staple this butt cap back in place this time, just as a safeguard, but I can't find anyone in my area that has a stapler/tacker strong enough to penetrate the graphite hairpin, which is what I need.

Any advice on these issues would be greatly appreciated.

Irvin
03-22-2012, 07:49 AM
I wonder if hot glue for the pallets would work? That way when you want to take them off just apply heat first.

gotwheels
03-22-2012, 08:46 AM
My experiences have been that pallets and butt caps should be stapled for secure fastening (I do not staple grips). For pallets I use an adhesive spray as a supplement. I believe a good double sided tape (more of a 3M commercial product) could, also, be used as a supplement.

I would recommend a pneumatic stapler with 1/4" Narrow Crown Staples 1/2" long (~18 ga.) at an ~80 psig working pressure.

Good luck!

Pneumated1
03-22-2012, 09:25 AM
Irvin,

I think the glue would work, but the spray adhesive essentially does the same thing. You have to heat it up as well to separate the pallets. However, I don't know the characteristics of the glue well enough to know if it dries harder and bonds better than the adhesive. May try this next time, though.

gotwheels,

I think you're probably right about a few staples in addition to the supplementary adhesive. However, if the butt cap staples are strong and long enough, they should keep the pallets from shifting downward.

And thanks for the tip on the pressure; that would have been my next question. Would an electric stapler do the trick as well, since they're cheaper? Like a carpet stapler?

Kot_Bigemot
03-22-2012, 09:47 AM
I disassembled the pallets/butt cap on my Becker racquets some time ago. The advice that I was given was to just use spray adhesive/silicone to reinstall the pallets and butt cap. Well, the butt cap never budged from the pallets, but the pallets actually slid a 1/4", considering that I hold the racquet a little off the bottom of the butt cap.

So, I need advice in two areas, much like you:

1) How would you guys reinstall the pallets---with spray adhesive, as I have done, or would you use double sided tape? If double sided tape, should I wrap it around the hairpin only, or should I put it on both the inside of the pallets and the hairpin?

2) I'll need to staple this butt cap back in place this time, just as a safeguard, but I can't find anyone in my area that has a stapler/tacker strong enough to penetrate the graphite hairpin, which is what I need.

Any advice on these issues would be greatly appreciated.

I use double sided tape under pallets. It is really thin and yet, it is really sticky on both sides so, it holds great. Plus, what if you need to replace pallets in a future(crack or change size)? It is much easier to remove pallets from tape than if they are glued to the frame. I staple butt cap to the frame. So far, i have replaced about 80-90 pallets and never had any issues.
All you need to do is - take your time, be very careful and do not rush things.

Irvin
03-22-2012, 12:13 PM
Irvin,

I think the glue would work, but the spray adhesive essentially does the same thing. You have to heat it up as well to separate the pallets. However, I don't know the characteristics of the glue well enough to know if it dries harder and bonds better than the adhesive. May try this next time, though...

Pick up a hot glue stick and you will see how it works. The more surface area the better it sticks and the stick even when up to 1/2" thick is pliable. You got to be quick though as it hardern fast. It may help to heat up the handle before you apply the hot glue.


...It is much easier to remove pallets from tape than if they are glued to the frame. I staple butt cap to the frame. So far, i have replaced about 80-90 pallets and never had any issues.
All you need to do is - take your time, be very careful and do not rush things.

The pallets are glued to the frame with something when it comes from the factory. I would highly recommend stapling down the butt caps.

jdunnie014159
03-22-2012, 02:25 PM
someone mentioned using a small nail instead of a staple. i'm working on a radical with pallets that are 1/2" too short at the buttcap. the staple is not going to go through the buttcap and into the hairpin. what should I use to drive the nail in this case. will a nail crack the hairpin? also, could i use superglue in this case?

jamauss
03-31-2012, 01:50 PM
Use a hammer on the nail. Put some friction tape around a couple inches of the the base of the pallets first though, before you slide the butt cap over it.