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max pl
03-14-2012, 01:28 PM
When stringing crosses on my 6 point machine I run into the situation as described below in my drawing. The round line is the frame, the little rectangle is one of the mounts, and the red lines are two possible ways for the cross string to exit the frame.

Which is the better way to pull string in this scenario? Line 1 does not touch the mount at all but puts pressure against the frame at a sharp angle. Line 2 puts no pressure on the frame but seems to put a ton of force on the mount.

I've been using Line 2 with all my stringing but decided to ask here if its bad for the long term stability of the machine.

Or, perhaps I'm doing it all wrong and not mounting the racquet properly?

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7209/6836749778_86f813b3f0_b.jpg

esgee48
03-14-2012, 01:47 PM
I come straight out along line 2. I don't like the angle of line 1 because of friction between the string and the grommet. The frame and mounting post can handle it since it is only under pressure/tension for seconds.

addendum: I think you may have your brake set incorrectly as the string should come straight out without having to curve around the support.

Clintspin
03-14-2012, 02:03 PM
That is definitely one of the problems with side mount arms. Even when you use route #2 the string is really flatting out against the support. It doesn't seem very healthy for the string especially natural gut.

Irvin
03-14-2012, 07:02 PM
I don't see how you can get the lines of pull you are describing. Try taking a picture of an actual racket and pull direction. In my experience the tensioned string is perpendicular to the side of the racket at the point of the grommet. In other words how can a tensioned string bend like it does on line 2? You don't have your turntable brake set do you?

max pl
03-14-2012, 07:33 PM
Well three people just stated that they get the same result so it must be somewhat common?

Line 2:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/6983630153_2bd844da9e_z.jpg
Line 1:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7177/6837506246_ecbb73a733_z.jpg

I think I'm gonna start locking the turntable around those mounts to avoid contact with them. I think its possible in this scenario at least.
I never really considered using the brake during stringing til I string a Prince today. Ha.

edit: Actually thats likely not possible as it'll likely just bend around the case near the tensioner in that scenario. I'll try it though next time I string.

Clintspin
03-15-2012, 04:05 AM
That's my same scenario. Using the brake may be a solution sometimes but not that often.

Irvin
03-15-2012, 04:25 AM
Well three people just stated that they get the same result so it must be somewhat common?

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/6983630153_2bd844da9e_z.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7177/6837506246_ecbb73a733_z.jpg

I think I'm gonna start locking the turntable around those mounts to avoid contact with them. I think its possible in this scenario at least.
I never really considered using the brake during stringing til I string a Prince today. Ha.

edit: Actually thats likely not possible as it'll likely just bend around the case near the tensioner in that scenario. I'll try it though next time I string.

A tensioned string can not bend like you are showing unless there is something holding the turntable like the brake. When you tension the string it will be in a straight line always unless there is some outside force making it bend.

I think your problem is you are covering the grommet with your outside support and the string is bending between the frame and the very first point of contact with the support and then there is a slight bend but past that point of contact there is no bend.

There is a micro adjustment on your stringer to adjust the 12 and 6 o'clock supports so the outside supports will not interfere with the grommet holes. If your supports are in the wrong place locking the turn table is going to cause more problems.

No way a tensioned string bends without another outside force no matter how many people say it does. Think about it, for the string to bend the support must push the string sideways, but there is no force except for the tension on the string. If the string is under tension it will push the support until the string is straight assuming there is no force applied to the turn table like the brake.

Clintspin
03-15-2012, 05:01 AM
I haven't found any micro adjustments to get the side arms out of the way of many holes. With the Gamma arms, you are stuck with where they go on more than a few occasions. The only way you can get them out of the way on some racquets is to locate them in such a way that they are not supporting the racquet correctly.

Clintspin
03-15-2012, 05:17 AM
Max Pl, the answer to your problem seems to be in one of the Gamma manuals. I can't do this with my machine but you can. The quote is below. You need to adjust the racquet between the center mounts to avoid the problem with the arms.


Shoulder Support Adjustment
The shoulder supports are adjustable to
provide support to the racquet frame. Swivel
the support so that the pads will contact the
frame squarely when the arms are closed
against the racquet. Should the shoulder
supports block string holes, adjust the position
of the racquet between the arms until
the shoulder supports contact the racquet
between grommet holes.

max pl
03-15-2012, 07:26 AM
That doesn't seem to help much.

I already have the arms square against the frame, and in some instances not blocking the hole at all. Even if the arm is moved a quarter of an inch to be perfectly between the holes, the string will still push up against the arm or frame as in lines 1 and 2.

Perhaps the arms simply need to be adjusted to be a bit higher to the head or lower toward the center.

I think I've tried adjusting the 6 and 12 supports as well to correct for this win no luck.

Irvin
03-15-2012, 09:45 AM
That doesn't seem to help much.

I already have the arms square against the frame, and in some instances not blocking the hole at all. Even if the arm is moved a quarter of an inch to be perfectly between the holes, the string will still push up against the arm or frame as in lines 1 and 2...

My micro adjustments on the 6 and 12 o'clock positions will move those supports about 1". When doing so that will move the side supports 1" where they contact the racket. If the turn table if free to move there is no possible way the string will bend as you have drawn in line #2!

Take a picture, don't draw a line and make up stuff about what you think may happen. Put your racket back on the stringer with the strings in it and just tie a shoe string on the crosses in the center of the racket. Pull gently on the string wrapped around the outside support and you will see the string will be straight like this:

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp304/Irvin44_2008/th_DSC_0070.jpg http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp304/Irvin44_2008/th_DSC_0071.jpg

That string can not bend around the outside support unless there is some outside force to hold the table off at an angle.

EDIT: If your outside support intersects the line between your turntable pivot point and the tensioner there could be some slight deflection but you should be able to avoid that by adjusting your 6 and 12 o'clock supports properly.

EDIT: This works much like the string going through a grommet. The string will try to stay straight from the pivot point to the tensioner but if the grommet hole deflects it there will be a 'zig-zag in the center. Nothing you can do about that but you can move the outside support so it does not bend the string.

rich s
03-15-2012, 10:00 AM
That string can not bend around the outside support unless there is some outside force to hold the table off at an angle.

Irwin.... the string will bend/kink around the far side of the support with an unlocked turntable because the tensioned string will want to turn the table to create a straight line among the tensioner, the point at which the string contacts the support and the pivot axis of the turntable.

I have had it occur before and will take a picture tonight when I get home....

If you take the yellow yarn in your previous post, put it on the far side of the mount (relative to the gripper) and then take the bitter end of the yarn and bring it over to your gripper, you will see what the OP is talking about.....

the OP's drawings may not be to scale or the correct proportion, but I have had occur what he is inquiring about......

Irvin
03-15-2012, 10:19 AM
Rich I agree with you but only if the support is on a line between the exit point of the grommet and a line from the tensioner to the pivot point of the turntable. Adjusting the 6 and 12 o'clock supports will stop that.

Even if there is a bend it will be slight and should not have much effect on the overall tension, and will only effect one string.

One more point I did not think of is my turntable is self centering if the pivot point if off center the bend could be more noticeable. Also taking 'line 1' in the OP's original drawing will eliminate the bend completely except for the point between the grommet hole and the support, and again if the top and bottom supports are set right that does not happen.

EDIT: The only time you get the bend around the support should be when the grommet hole is close to the support on the top of the racket and above the support at the bottom of the racket. When adjusting the 6 and 12 o'clock supports you want as much space as possible between the grommet exit hole below the support at the top and above the support at the bottom.

mikeler
03-15-2012, 10:50 AM
It seems impossible with the Gamma 6 point mounting system to not bend any of the cross strings at all.

Irvin
03-15-2012, 11:12 AM
It seems impossible with the Gamma 6 point mounting system to not bend any of the cross strings at all.

Here is a picture of a racket mounted properly showing the tension on strings in grommet holes 12 and 11:

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp304/Irvin44_2008/th_DSC_0070-1.jpg http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp304/Irvin44_2008/th_DSC_0071-1.jpg

Here is a picture of the racket mounted improperly showing the tension on strings in grommet holes 12 and 11:

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp304/Irvin44_2008/th_DSC_0074.jpg http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp304/Irvin44_2008/th_DSC_0072.jpg

All I did to get the bend is adjust the 12 o'clock support. I could do the exact same thing on the top of the frame too by adjusting the 6 o'clock support. If you adjust your supports properly there is no bend and no blocked holes. BTW in the top two photos it may have been possible to get grommet 11 is little more below the support and 12 closer to it so the supports is more in the middle of the tensioned strings.

EDIT: The only way to get a bend in the string if the supports are adjusted right is to apply some other force to turn the turn table.

EDIT: One more point I would like to make. Because the racket and stringer is symmetrical both bottom side support will hit the frame at the same point. On one side you will pull out of grommet 12 above the support and on the other side you pull out of grommet 11 when this frame is mounted properly so there is never a bend.

Clintspin
03-15-2012, 11:30 AM
Mikeler is correct. It is impossible with the Gamma side arms shown in Max Pl's photos to not have a problem with blocked holes. Those quick-mount side supports do not adjust to move away from a blocked hole. They only adjust to the shape of the frame. They pivot only. Maybe yours are different, Irvin. I can't tell from your pictures, Irvin. The quick-mount side arms in Max Pl's picture can be moved by undoing the nut at the bottom, turning them sideways and lifting and then moving to the other slot in the bracket but this rarely solves anything.

Irvin
03-15-2012, 11:57 AM
Mikeler is correct. It is impossible with the Gamma side arms shown in Max Pl's photos to not have a problem with blocked holes. Those quick-mount side supports do not adjust to move away from a blocked hole. They only adjust to the shape of the frame. They pivot only. Maybe yours are different, Irvin. I can't tell from your pictures, Irvin. The quick-mount side arms in Max Pl's picture can be moved by undoing the nut at the bottom, turning them sideways and lifting and then moving to the other slot in the bracket but this rarely solves anything.

The side supports do not move you are right about that. You can twist them around so they fit flush against the frame but not up and down the frame. BUT the 6 and 12 o'clock supports do move in and out. There is one adjustment that moves the top and/or bottom supports and the outside supports together and there is a micro adjustment that moves the 6 and 12 o'clock supports independently from the side supports. If you move the top support independent from the side supports you effectively move the side supports up and vice-a-versa.

If I can't move the side supports up and down how do you think I got the pictures in my previous post?

EDIT: Maybe a video will help if you still don't understand. I have some rackets to strung so I will make one that shows more about what I am talking about.

mikeler
03-15-2012, 12:01 PM
Mikeler is correct. It is impossible with the Gamma side arms shown in Max Pl's photos to not have a problem with blocked holes. Those quick-mount side supports do not adjust to move away from a blocked hole. They only adjust to the shape of the frame. They pivot only. Maybe yours are different, Irvin. I can't tell from your pictures, Irvin. The quick-mount side arms in Max Pl's picture can be moved by undoing the nut at the bottom, turning them sideways and lifting and then moving to the other slot in the bracket but this rarely solves anything.


Is it just me or are Irvin's side supports thinner than our Gamma supports?

Clintspin
03-15-2012, 12:06 PM
I think they are but it's hard to tell from the picture.

Another slight problem for me is that my side arms get in the way of getting the clamps close to the end of the string/frame on my main tie-offs. The sidearms stick out just enough that I can't get my glide bar clamps nice and close.

Irvin
03-15-2012, 12:25 PM
Is it just me or are Irvin's side supports thinner than our Gamma supports?

I think they are but it's hard to tell from the picture...

You guys are too funny. My Gamma outside support are 1/2" wide and stick out 1 3/4" at the level of the string bed.

mikeler
03-15-2012, 12:33 PM
I think they are but it's hard to tell from the picture.

Another slight problem for me is that my side arms get in the way of getting the clamps close to the end of the string/frame on my main tie-offs. The sidearms stick out just enough that I can't get my glide bar clamps nice and close.


Same issue for me on my PK 7Gs. The last mains I can't get snug up to the end of the frame. Don't remember having that problem with other frames though.

mikeler
03-15-2012, 12:36 PM
You guys are too funny. My Gamma outside support are 1/2" wide and stick out 1 3/4" at the level of the string bed.


They do look the same size if you compare pictures. I use the two little blue guys on each stick to adjust it so I don't have to fool with the nuts on 6 and 12.

http://www.doittennis.com/images/lg/gamma-x-st-stringing-machine.jpg

max pl
03-15-2012, 12:41 PM
I think the solution is adjusting the 6 and 12s like Irvin suggests. The 6 support should be extended up and the 12 withdrawn up. This allows the racquet to be moved up which in turn brings the support arms lower toward the center of the frame. At this point when a cross is tensioned the racquet is nearing a point where it's perpendicular to the tension head As it rotates with every cross pulled and the cross avoids contact with the support.

I think I've tried this solution last year though when I first encountered this problem, and ultimately the 6 and 12 supports we're not able to be moved as far as I needed them.

Irvin
03-15-2012, 12:47 PM
They do look the same size if you compare pictures. I use the two little blue guys on each stick to adjust it so I don't have to fool with the nuts on 6 and 12...

If you do not adjust the 6 and 12 you will have to contend with the bend around the outside support.

I think the solution is adjusting the 6 and 12s like Irvin suggests. The 6 support should be extended up and the 12 withdrawn up. This allows the racquet to be moved up which in turn brings the support arms lower toward the center of the frame. At this point when a cross is tensioned the racquet is nearing a point where it's perpendicular to the tension head As it rotates with every cross pulled and the cross avoids contact with the support.

I think I've tried this solution last year though when I first encountered this problem, and ultimately the 6 and 12 supports we're not able to be moved as far as I needed them.

By golly I think you have it. Now here's another tip. By moving the top and bottom standard up or down you move the turntable pivot point. By moving the pivot point you change the angle of the string coming off the racket so you can use that to get around the outside support. I can not do that on mine because my turn table is self centering.

EDIT: Also if you don't want to mess with the 6 and 12 o'clock supports just live with the bend. I doubt it makes any difference.

mikeler
03-15-2012, 01:04 PM
If you do not adjust the 6 and 12 you will have to contend with the bend around the outside support.



By golly I think you have it. Now here's another tip. By moving the top and bottom standard up or down you move the turntable pivot point. By moving the pivot point you change the angle of the string coming off the racket so you can use that to get around the outside support. I can not do that on mine because my turn table is self centering.

EDIT: Also if you don't want to mess with the 6 and 12 o'clock supports just live with the bend. I doubt it makes any difference.


Agreed. Just kind of annoying. I don't see how physically moving the end supports helps anymore than adjusting the blue pins on top of the 6 and 12 to get the "best fit". For me, I can usually get 3 of the 4 holes to open decently. Always seems like there is one with the bend but like you said, it probably does not even matter.

Irvin
03-15-2012, 02:45 PM
I am presently uploading a video on adjusting the supports but it will not be complete until after I leave for a while. You will be able to see it on the YouTube Channel if you are interested.

Same issue for me on my PK 7Gs. The last mains I can't get snug up to the end of the frame. Don't remember having that problem with other frames though.

While I was at it I also did a video on getting around the outside supports on the outside mains. That one is loading too.

Clintspin
03-15-2012, 07:01 PM
Now everybody is agreeing with what I copied from the Gamma manual. Moving the center supports. I cannot do that on my machine because it is a modified Ektelon DE. Only one end will move and that leaves me stuck where I am.

Irvin
03-16-2012, 03:57 AM
Now everybody is agreeing with what I copied from the Gamma manual. Moving the center supports. I cannot do that on my machine because it is a modified Ektelon DE. Only one end will move and that leaves me stuck where I am.

Sure we are but I agreed with you about an hour before you copied it. Does the Ektelon DE have a 6 point mount?

Clintspin
03-16-2012, 04:56 AM
Not when it was made. It has been changed a couple of times. This time I added the upgrade below as an experiment in 6 point.

https://sites.google.com/site/stringerupgrade/6-point-mount-upgrade

Irvin
03-16-2012, 05:08 AM
^^I see now I understand. You can still do the same thing even though you can't move the mounts. You could place a spacer between the mount and the racket. If the spacer is 1/4" thick you move the outside mounts 1/4".

Clintspin
03-16-2012, 05:12 AM
I have thought of that but I don't want anything that might work it's way lose or pop out.

Irvin
03-16-2012, 05:51 AM
I have thought of that but I don't want anything that might work it's way lose or pop out.

You are just trying to make it difficult. LOL You can get different width spacers (post protectors) from Gamma that fit right on your posts.

http://www.gammasports.com/gamma.cfm?product=845

EDIT: And if you want a spacer that is a little thicker you could cut the little pins (that go into the support post) and hot/super glue two together. Where there is a will there is a way.

EDIT: I find it hard to believe Gamma did not make those posts so they are adjustable. Are you sure you can move them independently?

tennis_ocd
03-16-2012, 06:06 AM
Line 1:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7177/6837506246_ecbb73a733_z.jpg
Is there anything wrong with pulling a string at this angle? Doesn't seem too bad to me??

max pl
03-16-2012, 06:18 AM
perhaps not.

i honestly dont know whats good and what isnt at this point. i think i'm putting too much thought into this and that non of these techniques really do much damage to the racquet frame or the machine supports.

Irvin
03-16-2012, 06:19 AM
Is there anything wrong with pulling a string at this angle? Doesn't seem too bad to me??

No if the support does not move. The outside supports twist at the base and usuall by the time you get to the crosses they are very tight up against the frame. If they twist there goes your support on one side. I have never seen one move.

The string now will do a 'zig-zag' when it goes through the grommet. If it does another 'zig-zag' to get around the support you are adding more friction. More friction is less tension but you have to remember this is only on one string. If there is an issue it will only be on one side of the racket. I don't think there is anything to worry about.

rich s
03-16-2012, 07:15 AM
I bought these for use on my 6004.... they offset the support from the frame allowing more access to the holes and help minimize the string contacting the support so that you don't have the issues we have been discussing....

http://206.210.94.83/collaterals/pdf/MG58E-3.pdf

see printed pages 21 and 22 (pdf pages 22 and 23) - item MMSSA

mikeler
03-16-2012, 10:36 AM
I am presently uploading a video on adjusting the supports but it will not be complete until after I leave for a while. You will be able to see it on the YouTube Channel if you are interested.



While I was at it I also did a video on getting around the outside supports on the outside mains. That one is loading too.


I'll check it out tonight. Thanks!

GlenK
03-16-2012, 10:47 AM
I must be missing something here. I always mount the racquet so the support is in the middle between the two grommets. Then pull tension like the example in the second picture. (where it does not wrap around the support post)

Then the same thing on the other side.

Irvin
03-16-2012, 11:47 AM
I must be missing something here. I always mount the racquet so the support is in the middle between the two grommets. Then pull tension like the example in the second picture. (where it does not wrap around the support post)

Then the same thing on the other side.

The racket should be mounted so the top where the grommet hole closest to the head is just inside the outside support this leaves more room on the lower grommet to hold the string out past the support. At the bottom it is just he opposide the grommet hole nearest the throat should be just inside the outside support so the hole on top holds the string out past the support.

Irvin
03-16-2012, 11:49 AM
I'll check it out tonight. Thanks!

Here are the links for the videos:

Mounting with a 6 point stringer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSGOKl5xobA)

Tip for stringing with 6 point stringer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0-xD0lRKwU)

rich s
03-16-2012, 12:54 PM
I must be missing something here. I always mount the racquet so the support is in the middle between the two grommets. Then pull tension like the example in the second picture. (where it does not wrap around the support post)

Then the same thing on the other side.

nope.... not missing anything.....yep.... it's that simple..... :)

Clintspin
03-16-2012, 07:34 PM
Trouble with the tip in the first video is that all that fiddling around no longer makes it a very quick mount and if you do that to get the bottom lined up-it may not line up at the top.

The second video is a method I have used before but it also has it's problems. It doesn't work so well on racquets with a layout that is designed to put the strings in a certain place such as many of the Babolats. I also thought that you were big on not deviating too much from the manufacturers design.

Irvin
03-17-2012, 03:47 AM
Not sure what you were talking about there. When it come to manufacturer's design I think that is the best way to go for stringing patterns with one exception, I like two piece best most of the time. But if someone want another pattern I have no problem deviating most of the time.

GlenK
03-17-2012, 03:50 AM
The racket should be mounted so the top where the grommet hole closest to the head is just inside the outside support this leaves more room on the lower grommet to hold the string out past the support. At the bottom it is just he opposide the grommet hole nearest the throat should be just inside the outside support so the hole on top holds the string out past the support.

Yea, I was doing it right to start with. I have a Gamma X-Els and actually have a little "play" in my supports for small movements. They actually have a little more movement than the machine you were using on your video's..

Thanks Rich S.. Guess I was looking for some mistake I wasn't making.. lol...

Irvin
03-17-2012, 04:02 AM
Yea, I was doing it right to start with. I have a Gamma X-Els and actually have a little "play" in my supports for small movements. They actually have a little more movement than the machine you were using on your video's..

Thanks Rich S.. Guess I was looking for some mistake I wasn't making.. lol...

I have some play in my fixed clamp bases but that is normal. There should be no play in your side supports. When tightening them only get them finger tight, just touching would be enough I think. When the mains are completed with no crosses the head is shorter and wider so the side supports are really tight. After stringing the mains the head straightens out to normal and the side supports are finger tight again and easy to remove.

AeroproSG
03-17-2012, 05:18 PM
This happens to me too.
Way number 1 - http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/3700/022fui.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/401/022fui.jpg/)
Way number 2 - http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/2301/023fnk.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/580/023fnk.jpg/)

Gamma x-6 drop weight stringer 6 mounts

max pl
03-17-2012, 06:09 PM
uh, your supports are definitely set up wrong. i dont think it should be happening that bad.

if you cant fix your setup i'd suggest using line 1. line 2 looks very bad.

GlenK
03-18-2012, 04:13 AM
I have some play in my fixed clamp bases but that is normal. There should be no play in your side supports. When tightening them only get them finger tight, just touching would be enough I think. When the mains are completed with no crosses the head is shorter and wider so the side supports are really tight. After stringing the mains the head straightens out to normal and the side supports are finger tight again and easy to remove.

Sorry, I misstated that. I don't mean "play" when they are tight. I just mean able to make small adjustments before tightening. They are like the ones in the photos above.

max pl
03-18-2012, 02:11 PM
i finally had time today to mess with my stringer.

after making a few adjustments by sliding the mount posts up and down, i think i've found the sweet spot. may still get a bit of touch on the mount but overall it's much better.

i think i'll be moving the 6 and 12 mounts a bit less from now on as well.

pvaudio
03-20-2012, 10:28 AM
I'm surprised Irvin doesn't recognize this issue. The best solution is to use the most outside support holes. That'll make the top/bottom grommets more open for when you tension. Irvin, the issue is in your first picture. Considering the tensioner is to the right, the string will bend around and against the support.

pvaudio
03-20-2012, 10:30 AM
This happens to me too.
Way number 1 - http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/3700/022fui.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/401/022fui.jpg/)
Way number 2 - http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/2301/023fnk.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/580/023fnk.jpg/)

Gamma x-6 drop weight stringer 6 mounts
Bingo. Move the supports to the outermost holes. That will mean that you will only really ever have line "1". By the time the lower-middle grommets are ready to be tensioned, the path will be horizontal to the gripper.

Irvin
03-20-2012, 12:33 PM
I'm surprised Irvin doesn't recognize this issue. The best solution is to use the most outside support holes. That'll make the top/bottom grommets more open for when you tension. Irvin, the issue is in your first picture. Considering the tensioner is to the right, the string will bend around and against the support.

Surprised? I'm not, did you read post #39 (http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showpost.php?p=6396681&postcount=39)? It depends on what you consider the outside support holes. The higher grommet holes should be just inside the top of the outside supports and the bottom grommet holes should be just inside the bottom of the outside bottom supports.

KoaUka
03-20-2012, 01:01 PM
Bingo. Move the supports to the outermost holes. That will mean that you will only really ever have line "1". By the time the lower-middle grommets are ready to be tensioned, the path will be horizontal to the gripper.

Agree.

It looks as if the supports are setup for a badmitten racquet.

Irvin
03-20-2012, 01:21 PM
Agree.

It looks as if the supports are setup for a badmitten racquet.

Now I see what you guys means moving the supports into the other holes on the arm.

Clintspin
03-20-2012, 01:40 PM
It doesn't matter which hole the side supports are placed in, you will still deal with blocked holes and each racquet varies a little. The upper hole may work better on some racquets even if it was designed for badminton. The lower hole may work for other racquets. In these two pictures the bottom side support hole would work much better but that is not true with many racquets. I think it's hard to get around this with a dense pattern. You are never far from a grommet and the side support.

Irvin
03-20-2012, 03:40 PM
^^I think it will make a big difference. The higher up toward the head of the racket the farther up from the pivot point of the turntable and the greater the angle of bend. The greater the angle the better chance you have of the string on the inside of the support hitting it when it is pulled.