Pacific Classic 1.25 x MSV Co-Focus 1.18

newyorkstadium

Professional
I only bump when a question isn't answered. I had a question that was left unanswered for a month or so, before I gave up. That is why I repeatedly bumped it. I will try to bump less often though.
 

Smasher08

Legend
I only bump when a question isn't answered. I had a question that was left unanswered for a month or so, before I gave up. That is why I repeatedly bumped it. I will try to bump less often though.

I'd like this to come across as kindly as possible:

People who post in this thread are usually very friendly, helpful, decent, and generous. Everyone is welcome to post here in that spirit.

That said, no one here has any obligation to answer your questions, or respond to your obnoxious bumps. All that bumping does (at least in the manner you've been doing it) is make you come across as petulant, demanding, and entitled -- which you probably don't want to do. So if people choose not to answer a question you've posted, annoying the hell out of them through chronic bumping isn't going to help you. At all.

And honestly, you always have the option of starting your own threads. They're a great way to draw like-minded people into an engaging discussion.

Lecture over, and hopefully lesson learned.
 

newyorkstadium

Professional
I'd like this to come across as kindly as possible:

People who post in this thread are usually very friendly, helpful, decent, and generous. Everyone is welcome to post here in that spirit.

That said, no one here has any obligation to answer your questions, or respond to your obnoxious bumps. All that bumping does (at least in the manner you've been doing it) is make you come across as petulant, demanding, and entitled -- which you probably don't want to do. So if people choose not to answer a question you've posted, annoying the hell out of them through chronic bumping isn't going to help you. At all.

And honestly, you always have the option of starting your own threads. They're a great way to draw like-minded people into an engaging discussion.

Lecture over, and hopefully lesson learned.

You are right. Please accept my apologies for the bumpings
 
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Ok i've got my BLX Pro Staff 95s (16x19)properly leaded and balanced now, and my Pacific Classic 16L / Cofocus 1.18 at 53/48 feels freakin great but is just a tad too powerful. How do i tame this bad boy down just a bit?

Go to cofocus 1.23? 16g classic? Or 16L Tough gut? Any other options?

Please don't say up the tension on the poly because that's not an option, cofocus goes stiff above 48 on my constant pull stringer.
 

Doubles

Legend
Ok i've got my BLX Pro Staff 95s (16x19)properly leaded and balanced now, and my Pacific Classic 16L / Cofocus 1.18 at 53/48 feels freakin great but is just a tad too powerful. How do i tame this bad boy down just a bit?

Go to cofocus 1.23? 16g classic? Or 16L Tough gut? Any other options?

Please don't say up the tension on the poly because that's not an option, cofocus goes stiff above 48 on my constant pull stringer.

Thicker gauge on both strings should tame the power, although if you keep the same tension, it might seem too low powered depending on how sensitive you are to those things.
 

lcalamar

Rookie
go straight gut at higher tension?

when I switched to this hybrid I also struggled with the power. two things happened... the string settled in and I could really feel the pocketing when I hit it well, also I have so much more control that the xtra power was welcome
 

The Big Kahuna

Hall of Fame
As these Babs are pretty demanding frames on the arm, I'm VERY tempted to now investigate Pacific Gut/MSV Co-focus in a Pure Control Team and/or Pure Control Swirly.

Anyone got any views on tensions?
TIA

I have used this set-up in three different racquets now and you cannot go wrong starting with the gut at the low-end of the suggested range and the poly 10% lower than that to start. It should be a great blend of power, comfort, and control with great access to spin at that starting tension.
 

The Big Kahuna

Hall of Fame
Ok i've got my BLX Pro Staff 95s (16x19)properly leaded and balanced now, and my Pacific Classic 16L / Cofocus 1.18 at 53/48 feels freakin great but is just a tad too powerful. How do i tame this bad boy down just a bit?

Play with it for a while and my bet is it will moderate the power slightly as the poly starts to lose tension. This set-up plays great after about 3-5 hours. I would NOT suggest a higher tension and - honestly - with a 95 racquet, don't you need a little more pop?
 

canny

Rookie
Just checking in. After using a full bed of focus hex soft 18g for awhile at 53/51 I have just strung vs 16g in my mains at 54 and msv focus hex 18g soft at 50 in the crosses. I'll have playtest results shortly. Im trying to go lower and lower tension wise from your guys' advice.
 

Smasher08

Legend
Ok i've got my BLX Pro Staff 95s (16x19)properly leaded and balanced now, and my Pacific Classic 16L / Cofocus 1.18 at 53/48 feels freakin great but is just a tad too powerful. How do i tame this bad boy down just a bit?

Go to cofocus 1.23? 16g classic? Or 16L Tough gut? Any other options?

Please don't say up the tension on the poly because that's not an option, cofocus goes stiff above 48 on my constant pull stringer.

In theory going up a gauge might help. But you also risk losing a little spin. So I'd suggest adjusting your stroke mechanics to impart more spin.

Here's why:

A few weeks ago I put a new stringjob into my teaching racket. I'd had a set at 49x45 and really liked teaching with it. So this time round I went down to 48x44 -- that's mains which are four pounds under the recommended range. The stick I've been playing matches with was strung at 51x47, and produced noticeably less power and spin. With fresh from the can balls however, I liked how it performed and used it for league, ladder, and tournament matches all summer. But I was unable to consistently hit big imposing shots, and huge hitters were able to beat me if I couldn't out-chip them.

With the new setup at 48, however, that's changed. I love the effortless power it produces, as well as the slight increase in spin. The control is still there too, but I'm much better able to rip huge forehands at will and block back shots with good depth and pace. I hit pretty modern strokes so I'm getting enough spin to pull the balls down -- if I wasn't I'd be hitting the fence quite regularly.

The one problem I had over the summer with my teaching racket was on the serve: I really struggled getting both first and second serves to land in when hitting with pace. But for the past few weeks I've been hitting with a big-swinging friend and really loved how I could out-slug and out-spin him with the looser racket, but not the tighter one.

On a lark last week, I tried adjusting how I held my racket while serving in order to close the face more at contact, and it sure seemed to work. Both flat and kick serves not only started going in consistently, but they sure had a lot more zip. I play him again on Sunday, so we'll see if it still does the trick. If so, I'm going to be stringing even looser than before.

Anyway it's probably worth repeating that I lead my MGPMs up to 364g, they have a swingweight of approximately 352, and I have reasonably modern swings that generate a decent amount of spin. So your mileage may vary. That said, if you like the idea of having a setup that produces effortless pace and spin, and allows you to hit the bejeezus out of the ball whenever you want, then lower tensions are a good direction to go in.
 
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Smasher08

Legend
Just checking in. After using a full bed of focus hex soft 18g for awhile at 53/51 I have just strung vs 16g in my mains at 54 and msv focus hex 18g soft at 50 in the crosses. I'll have playtest results shortly. Im trying to go lower and lower tension wise from your guys' advice.

Looking forward to it. Like I just mentioned in my post above, you may have to tweak your strokes in order to generate more spin, but if you're willing to do that you'll probably progress more.

In all honesty, as you develop as a player you'll need to have a few gears. Good players probably have two: one where they'll almost never miss (ie at two thirds to three quarters pace), and one where they hit harder and can make the shot at least 70% of the time. Very good players will have three (an array of touch shots). Top players will have four or more (including extreme spin, looping, chip and trick shots) and their highest gear will have blazing speed (ie groundies of 90mph+).

So feel free to experiment with tensions and see how loose you can go. The benefits are more pace and spin with less effort, which will hopefully translate into more success in matches.
 
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newyorkstadium

Professional
Here is TW Professors view on textured strings
Spin is caused mostly by the mains, so even if the cross string gets smooth by the main rubbing up and down its length, the main string will keep its texture (except in the groove where it is sliding). So, for as much as texture influences spin (sticky string-to-ball interaction is not as important as slippery string-to-string interaction), it shouldn't change much. But I have never tested that.
I don't test durability, but it is logical to assume that an acutely shaped or rough poly might wear through the gut faster.
 
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canny

Rookie
Looking forward to it. Like I just mentioned in my post above, you may have to tweak your strokes in order to generate more spin, but if you're willing to do that you'll probably progress more.

In all honesty, as you develop as a player you'll need to have a few gears. Good players probably have two: one where they'll almost never miss (ie at two thirds to three quarters pace), and one where they hit harder and can make the shot at least 70% of the time. Very good players will have three (an array of touch shots). Top players will have four or more (including extreme spin, looping, chip and trick shots) and their highest gear will have blazing speed (ie groundies of 90mph+).

So feel free to experiment with tensions and see how loose you can go. The benefits are more pace and spin with less effort, which will hopefully translate into more success in matches.


I played with it the night just when I strung it. Threw some silicone on it and hit in about 40 degree weather in Florida. I really loved the feel and my slice back hand was so penetrating. I've had the stomach flu recently but hoping to go back to practice soon maybe even later today. In some normamlish temps so cant wait to see how that feels. I also have some 17 pro hurricane, 17 xp think of those two I should give a twirl?
 

GlenK

Professional
I routinely use Wislon Nat Gut with MSVCF 1.18. I fast pull the gut and SLOW pull the MSV and allow it to stretch for at least 20 seconds before clamping.

On Tues for some reason I simply forgot to change the mch to slow pull for the MSV. OMG, what a difference it made. String bed was boardy and stiff as opposed to my usual just start playing it with no breakin period.

I'm amazed at what a difference that one change made in the performance of this set up... I won't be forgetting this again..
 

The Big Kahuna

Hall of Fame
You know I am a huge advocate of the gut/poly hybrids. I have always had the same concerns you did about a full bed of poly for health reasons - especially after a two year bout with horrible tennis elbow caused by poly sting some 5 years ago. You can never go wrong with this set up for performance, comfort, and value (as I have found a set of gut/poly when paired well can last 40-50 hours as opposed to a full bed of poly going dead at 15-20 hours). The few times I have hit with a full bed of poly in the last 3 years, I have immediately gone back to my hybrid set-up as they were far to harsh on my arm.

That all said, the full set of Yonex Poly Tour Pro 125 I hit with this week did not hurt my arm (even after an intense 3 hour hitting session to push the limits) and actually performed better than the gut/poly hybrid set up in some areas. It was very interesting. If I had to compare the two, I would break it down like this:

Durability: Tie (while the poly will never break and is very durable, the gut/poly is playable for a longer period)
Power: Tie (the Yonex Poly had surprising pop - but this has not been true with most polys I have used, which do not have the power of a gut/poly)
Control: Poly (excellent control and accuracy with the Yonex Poly)
Feel: Gut / Poly (this is where the gut really shines, but the Yonex was among the best Polys I have used in this dept.)
Comfort: Gut / Poly (again, this is where the gut really shines, and again the Yonex was among the best Polys I have used in this dept.)
Spin: Poly (superb spin potential - this is where the poly really shines)
Tension Stability: Gut / Poly (gut holds it's tension better than anything)
PPR (Price Performance Ratio): Poly (when speaking of the string costs alone - but add the price of stringing to two poly string jobs to one gut/poly string job in 40 hours of play, and it is pretty much a tie)

What do you have at the end of the day? Two excellent options for stringing depending on your game, your frame, and your preferences. Right now, I am somewhat surprised to say, for the first time in 3 years, I have a full bed of poly in my bag right next to the gut/poly hybrid I have been using since I recovered from my arm problems - and loving them both.

I will have to hit some more with both before I settle on one or the other. Right now - today - if you pressed me, I am leaning towards the YONEX PTP 125 over the gut/poly. Maybe it is just because it is new and different, maybe it just suits my racquet better. Hard to tell.
 

Ross K

Legend
You know I am a huge advocate of the gut/poly hybrids. I have always had the same concerns you did about a full bed of poly for health reasons - especially after a two year bout with horrible tennis elbow caused by poly sting some 5 years ago. You can never go wrong with this set up for performance, comfort, and value (as I have found a set of gut/poly when paired well can last 40-50 hours as opposed to a full bed of poly going dead at 15-20 hours). The few times I have hit with a full bed of poly in the last 3 years, I have immediately gone back to my hybrid set-up as they were far to harsh on my arm.

That all said, the full set of Yonex Poly Tour Pro 125 I hit with this week did not hurt my arm (even after an intense 3 hour hitting session to push the limits) and actually performed better than the gut/poly hybrid set up in some areas. It was very interesting. If I had to compare the two, I would break it down like this:

Durability: Tie (while the poly will never break and is very durable, the gut/poly is playable for a longer period)
Power: Tie (the Yonex Poly had surprising pop - but this has not been true with most polys I have used, which do not have the power of a gut/poly)
Control: Poly (excellent control and accuracy with the Yonex Poly)
Feel: Gut / Poly (this is where the gut really shines, but the Yonex was among the best Polys I have used in this dept.)
Comfort: Gut / Poly (again, this is where the gut really shines, and again the Yonex was among the best Polys I have used in this dept.)
Spin: Poly (superb spin potential - this is where the poly really shines)
Tension Stability: Gut / Poly (gut holds it's tension better than anything)
PPR (Price Performance Ratio): Poly (when speaking of the string costs alone - but add the price of stringing to two poly string jobs to one gut/poly string job in 40 hours of play, and it is pretty much a tie)

What do you have at the end of the day? Two excellent options for stringing depending on your game, your frame, and your preferences. Right now, I am somewhat surprised to say, for the first time in 3 years, I have a full bed of poly in my bag right next to the gut/poly hybrid I have been using since I recovered from my arm problems - and loving them both.

I will have to hit some more with both before I settle on one or the other. Right now - today - if you pressed me, I am leaning towards the YONEX PTP 125 over the gut/poly. Maybe it is just because it is new and different, maybe it just suits my racquet better. Hard to tell.

So interesting to read this BK. As I think I said in other thread about PTP, I instantly really liked this poly last year when I tried it in a J100 and got a few more sets in. As you've previously tried plenty of polys previously, this obviously makes Poly Tour Pro something of a stand-out special poly for you. The 'stringaholic' side of me though does wonder if there aren't other polys that play similarly.
 

allenkau

Rookie
What tension did you string it at?

You know I am a huge advocate of the gut/poly hybrids. I have always had the same concerns you did about a full bed of poly for health reasons - especially after a two year bout with horrible tennis elbow caused by poly sting some 5 years ago. You can never go wrong with this set up for performance, comfort, and value (as I have found a set of gut/poly when paired well can last 40-50 hours as opposed to a full bed of poly going dead at 15-20 hours). The few times I have hit with a full bed of poly in the last 3 years, I have immediately gone back to my hybrid set-up as they were far to harsh on my arm.

That all said, the full set of Yonex Poly Tour Pro 125 I hit with this week did not hurt my arm (even after an intense 3 hour hitting session to push the limits) and actually performed better than the gut/poly hybrid set up in some areas. It was very interesting. If I had to compare the two, I would break it down like this:

Durability: Tie (while the poly will never break and is very durable, the gut/poly is playable for a longer period)
Power: Tie (the Yonex Poly had surprising pop - but this has not been true with most polys I have used, which do not have the power of a gut/poly)
Control: Poly (excellent control and accuracy with the Yonex Poly)
Feel: Gut / Poly (this is where the gut really shines, but the Yonex was among the best Polys I have used in this dept.)
Comfort: Gut / Poly (again, this is where the gut really shines, and again the Yonex was among the best Polys I have used in this dept.)
Spin: Poly (superb spin potential - this is where the poly really shines)
Tension Stability: Gut / Poly (gut holds it's tension better than anything)
PPR (Price Performance Ratio): Poly (when speaking of the string costs alone - but add the price of stringing to two poly string jobs to one gut/poly string job in 40 hours of play, and it is pretty much a tie)

What do you have at the end of the day? Two excellent options for stringing depending on your game, your frame, and your preferences. Right now, I am somewhat surprised to say, for the first time in 3 years, I have a full bed of poly in my bag right next to the gut/poly hybrid I have been using since I recovered from my arm problems - and loving them both.

I will have to hit some more with both before I settle on one or the other. Right now - today - if you pressed me, I am leaning towards the YONEX PTP 125 over the gut/poly. Maybe it is just because it is new and different, maybe it just suits my racquet better. Hard to tell.
 

The Big Kahuna

Hall of Fame
I strung the Yonex PTP 125 at 46 lbs. (10% below the low end of recommended tension for my racquet). I may go a tab lower next time.

If you check the Ratings Database from the playtests done by StringForum of ALL co-polys on the market with a minimum of 30 teat reports, BOTH the Yonex polys are # and #2 at this time. They are also #1 and #2 in PRICE PERFORMANCE RATIO rating (best for the money).

These are impressive results. I don't know if you will find a better poly out there right now - for the money, or without regard for it.
 

Ross K

Legend
I strung the Yonex PTP 125 at 46 lbs. (10% below the low end of recommended tension for my racquet). I may go a tab lower next time.

If you check the Ratings Database from the playtests done by StringForum of ALL co-polys on the market with a minimum of 30 teat reports, BOTH the Yonex polys are # and #2 at this time. They are also #1 and #2 in PRICE PERFORMANCE RATIO rating (best for the money).

These are impressive results. I don't know if you will find a better poly out there right now - for the money, or without regard for it.

Hmm, may have to grab the Spin version, only played the PTP version so far. Impressive though, as you say.
 

allenkau

Rookie
I strung the Yonex PTP 125 at 46 lbs. (10% below the low end of recommended tension for my racquet). I may go a tab lower next time.

If you check the Ratings Database from the playtests done by StringForum of ALL co-polys on the market with a minimum of 30 teat reports, BOTH the Yonex polys are # and #2 at this time. They are also #1 and #2 in PRICE PERFORMANCE RATIO rating (best for the money).

These are impressive results. I don't know if you will find a better poly out there right now - for the money, or without regard for it.

Anyone on this thread tried Ultra Low Tension yet? Wondering how PTP will play at like 30lbs?
 

Rogael Naderer

Semi-Pro
I strung the Yonex PTP 125 at 46 lbs. (10% below the low end of recommended tension for my racquet). I may go a tab lower next time.

If you check the Ratings Database from the playtests done by StringForum of ALL co-polys on the market with a minimum of 30 teat reports, BOTH the Yonex polys are # and #2 at this time. They are also #1 and #2 in PRICE PERFORMANCE RATIO rating (best for the money).

These are impressive results. I don't know if you will find a better poly out there right now - for the money, or without regard for it.

I have to ask, what colour PTP did you use?
 

Smasher08

Legend
I strung the Yonex PTP 125 at 46 lbs. (10% below the low end of recommended tension for my racquet).

Unrelated (and possibly shameless) segue here: I've been using my 48lbs setup for more than teaching lately, and except perhaps with a freshly opened tin of balls, it's magnificent. Effortless power, phenomenal touch, brilliant spin. It does everything a notch and a half better than my setup at 51 lbs. I'm quite tempted to string up another at 46 for use on clay.

I'm still keeping my eyes peeled for a backup racket to use in damp conditions, so I'm pretty interested in hearing how your PTP performs after 10+ hours. Personally my next test will probably be Gosen 17 mains x CoF crosses somewhere around 45x41.
 

The Big Kahuna

Hall of Fame
I have to ask, what colour PTP did you use?

I used BLACK (or "Graphite" color as Yonex calls it).

According to Yonex Support: "In terms of playability and performance, two colors are the same. Material is polyester and 16L gauge (1.25mm). Advantage of this string is comfortable feel and reduces player fatigue."
 

The Big Kahuna

Hall of Fame
Unrelated (and possibly shameless) segue here: I've been using my 48lbs setup for more than teaching lately, and except perhaps with a freshly opened tin of balls, it's magnificent. Effortless power, phenomenal touch, brilliant spin. It does everything a notch and a half better than my setup at 51 lbs. I'm quite tempted to string up another at 46 for use on clay.

What string are you using at 48 lbs. (as outlined above) again?
 

Rogael Naderer

Semi-Pro
I used BLACK (or "Graphite" color as Yonex calls it).

According to Yonex Support: "In terms of playability and performance, two colors are the same. Material is polyester and 16L gauge (1.25mm). Advantage of this string is comfortable feel and reduces player fatigue."

Oh and thanks, I don't like black or yellow but I may do alright with 'Graphite':).
 

The Big Kahuna

Hall of Fame
Unrelated (and possibly shameless) segue here: I've been using my 48lbs setup for more than teaching lately, and except perhaps with a freshly opened tin of balls, it's magnificent. Effortless power, phenomenal touch, brilliant spin. It does everything a notch and a half better than my setup at 51 lbs. I'm quite tempted to string up another at 46 for use on clay.

So SMASHER, what is this set-up you refer to in the post above at 48 lbs?
 

Smasher08

Legend
So SMASHER, what is this set-up you refer to in the post above at 48 lbs?

It's the one I used to refer to as my teaching racket: Pac x CoF. Phenomenal, effortless power and spin. The past few weeks it's really clicked for me and now both my first and second serves are hit for bombs. Like I said, I'm now very tempted to try it at 46x42.

Very, very tempted. :)
 
Finally get to see what these 30 pages is all about

IMG_7236_zpsde059065.jpg


IMG_7234_zps70f5321e.jpg


First stringing impression, I'm coming from econogut (Mamba Premium Natural Gut 16g)/MSV Co-Focus 1.18, 55lbs/51lbs:

The strings were Pacific Classic 16g/MSV Co-Focus 1.18, 55lbs/51lbs.

So, this is the quality control that everyone is talking about. Coming from econogut, this entry level Pacific Classic 16g is smooth as eggs! I usually wax my gut before stringing, and with econogut, I would get "caught" because the surface is not smooth. Not the case with Pacific Classic! Like I said, smooth as eggs.

Compared to econogut, Pacific Classic feels stiffer to the hand, and has a stronger memory coil. I'm not sure if that's the result of the coating.

Lastly, I'm not sweating bullets cranking the first few mains anymore. :)

Has Pacific Classic always been this yellow-ish?
 

McLovin

Legend
Has Pacific Classic always been this yellow-ish?

It varies. I've had sets that were almost clear, and sets that were yellow. But, I haven't noticed a difference in playability between the shades of 'natural'. I'm guessing it's what the cow/sheep/cat/dog/horse/whatever they're using/ ate that day...
 
It varies. I've had sets that were almost clear, and sets that were yellow. But, I haven't noticed a difference in playability between the shades of 'natural'. I'm guessing it's what the cow/sheep/cat/dog/horse/whatever they're using/ ate that day...

I'm pretty sure it's whatever dye/coating they used. Collagen doesn't have a color.
 

Ross K

Legend
Recently had VS (thicker gauge)/Co-focus stringjob in closed pattern Blade. I know this thread isn't about VS gut, but anyone know or have thoughts on how long/hours this set up might retain performance/playability before having to change it up?
 

kazamzaa

Rookie
I think it is the same amount of time than with pac classic. The longevity of todays premium guts is very good with poly crosses.
Someone else told in this or similar thread that when using coFocus as a cross: It starts good. Then there is a phase of wilderness at hours 2-4. Then it is good again for many many hours.
 

Smasher08

Legend
Recently had VS (thicker gauge)/Co-focus stringjob in closed pattern Blade. I know this thread isn't about VS gut, but anyone know or have thoughts on how long/hours this set up might retain performance/playability before having to change it up?

Until it breaks. Your poly crosses will die somewhere between hours 18-25, but if you haven't prestretched your mains, you won't feel it.
 

Smasher08

Legend
It starts good. Then there is a phase of wilderness at hours 2-4. Then it is good again for many many hours.

No phase of "wilderness". No idea what that means!! :)

It starts out great, and as long as you don't prestretch it, stays great until it breaks.

If you prestretch your mains, you'll feel the poly crosses die somewhere between hours 18-25. It feels odd and weird, but once they're dead, it feels fine again -- and stays that way til it breaks.
 

filphil

Rookie
It's starting to get warmer here in NJ. The tennis bug has kicked in and I'm coming out from seclusion.

Both my rackets are strung with my sig. After more than 7 months of no play I wonder how it'll play? :shock:
 

kazamzaa

Rookie
No phase of "wilderness". No idea what that means!! :)

It starts out great, and as long as you don't prestretch it, stays great until it breaks.

If you prestretch your mains, you'll feel the poly crosses die somewhere between hours 18-25. It feels odd and weird, but once they're dead, it feels fine again -- and stays that way til it breaks.

What I mean is that with co focus the stringbed becomes springy and difficult to control the ball after hitting two or three hours. Then later on it becomes good again.
With other poly crosses the performance decline hour by hour. Some decline more drastically than others. This one starts good then goes bad and finally settle for good again.
And I string mains 2 kg (4 lbs) higher and do not pre strech neither one.
 

Smasher08

Legend
Can you elaborate on that? I usually yank my gut until the coil memory is somewhat gone (that's my pre-stretch).

I can't, really! :)

I had my first 3 or 4 stringjobs done by stringers. They all would have used electronic tensioners, likely with prestretch settings. It's less likely (but still possible) that a prestretch was done by hand.

All I know is that the first time I strung it for myself I didn't do any kind of prestretch whatsoever, and boy oh boy was it livelier and spinnier. So lively, I guess, that I stopped noticing the blah period that had hit sometime around hour 20.
 
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