Smasher08
Legend
Bump, as only the latter part has really been answered
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Kindly stop bumping. It's getting very annoying.
Bump, as only the latter part has really been answered
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I only bump when a question isn't answered. I had a question that was left unanswered for a month or so, before I gave up. That is why I repeatedly bumped it. I will try to bump less often though.
I'd like this to come across as kindly as possible:
People who post in this thread are usually very friendly, helpful, decent, and generous. Everyone is welcome to post here in that spirit.
That said, no one here has any obligation to answer your questions, or respond to your obnoxious bumps. All that bumping does (at least in the manner you've been doing it) is make you come across as petulant, demanding, and entitled -- which you probably don't want to do. So if people choose not to answer a question you've posted, annoying the hell out of them through chronic bumping isn't going to help you. At all.
And honestly, you always have the option of starting your own threads. They're a great way to draw like-minded people into an engaging discussion.
Lecture over, and hopefully lesson learned.
You are right. Please accept my apologies for the bumpings
Ok i've got my BLX Pro Staff 95s (16x19)properly leaded and balanced now, and my Pacific Classic 16L / Cofocus 1.18 at 53/48 feels freakin great but is just a tad too powerful. How do i tame this bad boy down just a bit?
Go to cofocus 1.23? 16g classic? Or 16L Tough gut? Any other options?
Please don't say up the tension on the poly because that's not an option, cofocus goes stiff above 48 on my constant pull stringer.
As these Babs are pretty demanding frames on the arm, I'm VERY tempted to now investigate Pacific Gut/MSV Co-focus in a Pure Control Team and/or Pure Control Swirly.
Anyone got any views on tensions?
TIA
Ok i've got my BLX Pro Staff 95s (16x19)properly leaded and balanced now, and my Pacific Classic 16L / Cofocus 1.18 at 53/48 feels freakin great but is just a tad too powerful. How do i tame this bad boy down just a bit?
Ok i've got my BLX Pro Staff 95s (16x19)properly leaded and balanced now, and my Pacific Classic 16L / Cofocus 1.18 at 53/48 feels freakin great but is just a tad too powerful. How do i tame this bad boy down just a bit?
Go to cofocus 1.23? 16g classic? Or 16L Tough gut? Any other options?
Please don't say up the tension on the poly because that's not an option, cofocus goes stiff above 48 on my constant pull stringer.
Just checking in. After using a full bed of focus hex soft 18g for awhile at 53/51 I have just strung vs 16g in my mains at 54 and msv focus hex 18g soft at 50 in the crosses. I'll have playtest results shortly. Im trying to go lower and lower tension wise from your guys' advice.
Very interested in this setup. Anybody have an idea how it would work in an organix x10. 325?
Spin is caused mostly by the mains, so even if the cross string gets smooth by the main rubbing up and down its length, the main string will keep its texture (except in the groove where it is sliding). So, for as much as texture influences spin (sticky string-to-ball interaction is not as important as slippery string-to-string interaction), it shouldn't change much. But I have never tested that.
I don't test durability, but it is logical to assume that an acutely shaped or rough poly might wear through the gut faster.
Looking forward to it. Like I just mentioned in my post above, you may have to tweak your strokes in order to generate more spin, but if you're willing to do that you'll probably progress more.
In all honesty, as you develop as a player you'll need to have a few gears. Good players probably have two: one where they'll almost never miss (ie at two thirds to three quarters pace), and one where they hit harder and can make the shot at least 70% of the time. Very good players will have three (an array of touch shots). Top players will have four or more (including extreme spin, looping, chip and trick shots) and their highest gear will have blazing speed (ie groundies of 90mph+).
So feel free to experiment with tensions and see how loose you can go. The benefits are more pace and spin with less effort, which will hopefully translate into more success in matches.
You know I am a huge advocate of the gut/poly hybrids. I have always had the same concerns you did about a full bed of poly for health reasons - especially after a two year bout with horrible tennis elbow caused by poly sting some 5 years ago. You can never go wrong with this set up for performance, comfort, and value (as I have found a set of gut/poly when paired well can last 40-50 hours as opposed to a full bed of poly going dead at 15-20 hours). The few times I have hit with a full bed of poly in the last 3 years, I have immediately gone back to my hybrid set-up as they were far to harsh on my arm.
That all said, the full set of Yonex Poly Tour Pro 125 I hit with this week did not hurt my arm (even after an intense 3 hour hitting session to push the limits) and actually performed better than the gut/poly hybrid set up in some areas. It was very interesting. If I had to compare the two, I would break it down like this:
Durability: Tie (while the poly will never break and is very durable, the gut/poly is playable for a longer period)
Power: Tie (the Yonex Poly had surprising pop - but this has not been true with most polys I have used, which do not have the power of a gut/poly)
Control: Poly (excellent control and accuracy with the Yonex Poly)
Feel: Gut / Poly (this is where the gut really shines, but the Yonex was among the best Polys I have used in this dept.)
Comfort: Gut / Poly (again, this is where the gut really shines, and again the Yonex was among the best Polys I have used in this dept.)
Spin: Poly (superb spin potential - this is where the poly really shines)
Tension Stability: Gut / Poly (gut holds it's tension better than anything)
PPR (Price Performance Ratio): Poly (when speaking of the string costs alone - but add the price of stringing to two poly string jobs to one gut/poly string job in 40 hours of play, and it is pretty much a tie)
What do you have at the end of the day? Two excellent options for stringing depending on your game, your frame, and your preferences. Right now, I am somewhat surprised to say, for the first time in 3 years, I have a full bed of poly in my bag right next to the gut/poly hybrid I have been using since I recovered from my arm problems - and loving them both.
I will have to hit some more with both before I settle on one or the other. Right now - today - if you pressed me, I am leaning towards the YONEX PTP 125 over the gut/poly. Maybe it is just because it is new and different, maybe it just suits my racquet better. Hard to tell.
You know I am a huge advocate of the gut/poly hybrids. I have always had the same concerns you did about a full bed of poly for health reasons - especially after a two year bout with horrible tennis elbow caused by poly sting some 5 years ago. You can never go wrong with this set up for performance, comfort, and value (as I have found a set of gut/poly when paired well can last 40-50 hours as opposed to a full bed of poly going dead at 15-20 hours). The few times I have hit with a full bed of poly in the last 3 years, I have immediately gone back to my hybrid set-up as they were far to harsh on my arm.
That all said, the full set of Yonex Poly Tour Pro 125 I hit with this week did not hurt my arm (even after an intense 3 hour hitting session to push the limits) and actually performed better than the gut/poly hybrid set up in some areas. It was very interesting. If I had to compare the two, I would break it down like this:
Durability: Tie (while the poly will never break and is very durable, the gut/poly is playable for a longer period)
Power: Tie (the Yonex Poly had surprising pop - but this has not been true with most polys I have used, which do not have the power of a gut/poly)
Control: Poly (excellent control and accuracy with the Yonex Poly)
Feel: Gut / Poly (this is where the gut really shines, but the Yonex was among the best Polys I have used in this dept.)
Comfort: Gut / Poly (again, this is where the gut really shines, and again the Yonex was among the best Polys I have used in this dept.)
Spin: Poly (superb spin potential - this is where the poly really shines)
Tension Stability: Gut / Poly (gut holds it's tension better than anything)
PPR (Price Performance Ratio): Poly (when speaking of the string costs alone - but add the price of stringing to two poly string jobs to one gut/poly string job in 40 hours of play, and it is pretty much a tie)
What do you have at the end of the day? Two excellent options for stringing depending on your game, your frame, and your preferences. Right now, I am somewhat surprised to say, for the first time in 3 years, I have a full bed of poly in my bag right next to the gut/poly hybrid I have been using since I recovered from my arm problems - and loving them both.
I will have to hit some more with both before I settle on one or the other. Right now - today - if you pressed me, I am leaning towards the YONEX PTP 125 over the gut/poly. Maybe it is just because it is new and different, maybe it just suits my racquet better. Hard to tell.
I strung the Yonex PTP 125 at 46 lbs. (10% below the low end of recommended tension for my racquet). I may go a tab lower next time.
If you check the Ratings Database from the playtests done by StringForum of ALL co-polys on the market with a minimum of 30 teat reports, BOTH the Yonex polys are # and #2 at this time. They are also #1 and #2 in PRICE PERFORMANCE RATIO rating (best for the money).
These are impressive results. I don't know if you will find a better poly out there right now - for the money, or without regard for it.
I strung the Yonex PTP 125 at 46 lbs. (10% below the low end of recommended tension for my racquet). I may go a tab lower next time.
If you check the Ratings Database from the playtests done by StringForum of ALL co-polys on the market with a minimum of 30 teat reports, BOTH the Yonex polys are # and #2 at this time. They are also #1 and #2 in PRICE PERFORMANCE RATIO rating (best for the money).
These are impressive results. I don't know if you will find a better poly out there right now - for the money, or without regard for it.
I strung the Yonex PTP 125 at 46 lbs. (10% below the low end of recommended tension for my racquet). I may go a tab lower next time.
If you check the Ratings Database from the playtests done by StringForum of ALL co-polys on the market with a minimum of 30 teat reports, BOTH the Yonex polys are # and #2 at this time. They are also #1 and #2 in PRICE PERFORMANCE RATIO rating (best for the money).
These are impressive results. I don't know if you will find a better poly out there right now - for the money, or without regard for it.
I strung the Yonex PTP 125 at 46 lbs. (10% below the low end of recommended tension for my racquet).
I have to ask, what colour PTP did you use?
Unrelated (and possibly shameless) segue here: I've been using my 48lbs setup for more than teaching lately, and except perhaps with a freshly opened tin of balls, it's magnificent. Effortless power, phenomenal touch, brilliant spin. It does everything a notch and a half better than my setup at 51 lbs. I'm quite tempted to string up another at 46 for use on clay.
What string are you using at 48 lbs. (as outlined above) again?
I used BLACK (or "Graphite" color as Yonex calls it).
According to Yonex Support: "In terms of playability and performance, two colors are the same. Material is polyester and 16L gauge (1.25mm). Advantage of this string is comfortable feel and reduces player fatigue."
Unrelated (and possibly shameless) segue here: I've been using my 48lbs setup for more than teaching lately, and except perhaps with a freshly opened tin of balls, it's magnificent. Effortless power, phenomenal touch, brilliant spin. It does everything a notch and a half better than my setup at 51 lbs. I'm quite tempted to string up another at 46 for use on clay.
So SMASHER, what is this set-up you refer to in the post above at 48 lbs?
What string are you using at 48 lbs. (as outlined above) again?
Has Pacific Classic always been this yellow-ish?
It varies. I've had sets that were almost clear, and sets that were yellow. But, I haven't noticed a difference in playability between the shades of 'natural'. I'm guessing it's what the cow/sheep/cat/dog/horse/whatever they're using/ ate that day...
Has Pacific Classic always been this yellow-ish?
Recently had VS (thicker gauge)/Co-focus stringjob in closed pattern Blade. I know this thread isn't about VS gut, but anyone know or have thoughts on how long/hours this set up might retain performance/playability before having to change it up?
It starts good. Then there is a phase of wilderness at hours 2-4. Then it is good again for many many hours.
Until it breaks. Your poly crosses will die somewhere between hours 18-25, but if you haven't prestretched your mains, you won't feel it.
No phase of "wilderness". No idea what that means!!
It starts out great, and as long as you don't prestretch it, stays great until it breaks.
If you prestretch your mains, you'll feel the poly crosses die somewhere between hours 18-25. It feels odd and weird, but once they're dead, it feels fine again -- and stays that way til it breaks.
What I mean is that with co focus the stringbed becomes springy and difficult to control the ball after hitting two or three hours.
Can you elaborate on that? I usually yank my gut until the coil memory is somewhat gone (that's my pre-stretch).