If the grommets are in good shape - no you don't need to replace them.
If they are cracked and letting the string contact the frame directly you should replace them, or use tubing.
Try the Sears Craftsman 5pc mini pliers set.
The end nippers are great for cutting sharp points on the strings and the bent nose pliers may well be the stringer's best friend.
Comes in a neat carrying pouch, too.
Might want to take a good look before you remove the strings, count mains and crosses, see which holes were skipped, where the tie-offs were. Of course, you'll probably look up the stringing pattern so it's not that big a deal.
2nd this!
Congrats on being on the receiving end of a pay it forward item
Try the Sears Craftsman 5pc mini pliers set.
The end nippers are great for cutting sharp points on the strings and the bent nose pliers may well be the stringer's best friend.
Comes in a neat carrying pouch, too.
For every time you string, do you need a new set a grommets? If I don't, I just pop out the grommet, take out all the strings and put in new ones?
I was just asking to be sure. It wouldn't hurt.
Not really, there are only a few places where it's viable to tie a knot. When you inspect the frame, you'll find one or two larger holes designed for tie-offs. In a lot of more recent paint jobs, these holes are specifically marked, too.So, it's important on remember where the knots are tightened up?
So, it's important on remember where the knots are tightened up?
finding the tie off holes are generally easy to find but it doesn't hurt.
What I found more important is to see where you skip or share holes.
This set is frequently recommended here, but I personally hate it. I think the Crescent micro pliers and flush cutter set is much better for stringing purposes. http://store.mancor.org/crescent-miniature-wire-cutter-and-pliers-set.aspx You can also find a set like this at Home Depot, I don't recall how much it was. I want to say ~$12.
I should add, though, that if you are ONLY going to be buying one set of tools, the Craftsman set is better than the Crescent. I don't use needlenose (or bent) pliers for pulling my knots. I find their edges and gripping surfaces are either too sharp, or too small, and they can be dangerous (breaking string while pulling a knot towards your face is a recipe for disaster). I use a starting clamp and/or a CAM action plier nowadays for knot pulling. I'd say less than 20% of home stringers (if not way, way less) have a starting clamp (you'll see a disproportionately high ratio on this board, though). It's an order of magnitude more rare to have CAM action pliers, though. So I'm going to be in the minority here. I had a craftsman set many, many years ago (when I started stringing), and I also had quality control issues. The plating on the tools actually flaked off and the springs fell out (more like flimsy steel leafs than springs). I'm not sure if the lifetime Craftsman warranty still exists and/or applies to this set, but I personally just don't think these tools are very good.
I'd mention here that you should be careful (and more precise) regarding terminology moving forward. To clarify, a (single) grommet is an individual tube that runs through the drilled frame. A grommet strip often (but not always) refers to only the strip of grommets. A bumper guard is the protective top piece, and the bumper/grommet "set" is the entire plastic replacement set that would cover all the replaceable plastic on the frame.
With that defined, your question has been answered in the thread. It's rare to fully replace the set without damage (frame/graphite exposure). Split grommets do occur, but it is also pretty rare unless a frame has been sitting around for a long long time. The most common form of damage to grommets is actually going to be knot holes.
Not really, there are only a few places where it's viable to tie a knot. When you inspect the frame, you'll find one or two larger holes designed for tie-offs. In a lot of more recent paint jobs, these holes are specifically marked, too.
Obviously, it would be beneficial to learn how to interpret manufacturer recommended string patterns before stringing, and once you're comfortable with that, you can start to eye-ball it.
Can you explain the concept of skipping and sharing holes?
My Boris Becker Delta Core Legend is an 18X20. My racquet has a knot on the first top mains and two knots on the second and third bottom mains.
Can you explain the concept of skipping and sharing holes?
Can somebody please tell me any decent brand of tools before I waste my money?
Remember your sticky thread?
DD, can you email me the list of recommended tools and the exact brand name?
Meaning, the answer to my question is yes, correct?
My Boris Becker Delta Core Legend is an 18X20. My racquet has a knot on the first top mains and two knots on the second and third bottom mains.
Again, you really need to learn to read published stringing patterns, and as a new stringer, it is a very, very bad idea to ask for spoon feeding. I can't stress this enough. Check out YULitle's videos on YouTube for "quick" guides. (I personally prefer text, but the videos are good).
Quick and dirty: Guides will designate top and bottom, you count from the middle outwards.
Decent brand(s) of tools: The Craftsman set is fine, but if you get really "into" stringing, I wouldn't be surprised if you upgraded down the road. If you're looking to spend as little as possible, run farrrr far away from stringing. You'll (likely) find that the machine cost is the cheaper one in this hobby. It's similar to photography. When you start out, you're really hesitant to spend ~$1K on a SLR body, then you start realizing you're limited by your glass (lenses) -- you end up dropping several grand down the road.
You're already way ahead if you got a solid machine for free, so don't worry too much about spending a little extra on tools. If you want the "best" get a GSS or Alpha starting clamp, Parallel pliers, Xuron micro shears, and probably a set of micro pliers.
If you just want to get started -- get the craftsman set. YULitle's guide to tools has pictures. I already mentioned the Crescent (also labeled as Xcelite). http://www.homedepot.com/p/Xcelite-.../100163974?keyword=xcelite+plier#.UbZ5Fpz9XTo
That's the home depot link.
An awl would be useful, too. The TW one is actually my favorite I've found so far. It tapers beautifully, and is actually strong enough and not flimsy. It will/does snap if you're not careful with it, though.
Bumperguard + grommet sets: short answer is no, you rarely ever replace them on a restring.
Your frame: Visually inspect the grommets from inside the frame, you'll see there's only a few places a knot is easily tied. At the top, look on the opposite side of where the knot is, you'll see the difference between holes.
this is the stringing info for your racquet
String Pattern:
18 Mains / 20 Crosses
Mains skip: 8T,10T,8H,10H
Two Pieces
No Shared Holes
Shared holes means when x2 strings use the same grommet. Skipping means the mains will skip a hole where a cross would come out of.
Here is a picture of shared and then also some skipped holes.
Start counting from the top of the racquet from the middle 2 strings and go out.
Share 6, 7, 9
Skip 8
Okay, what does T and H mean? After this, I should have no more questions, and refer to the sticky in the stringing thread.
also get a couple packs of cheap synthetic gut to practice.
I would, but Becker Legends don't play well with Syn gut. I have a few sets of Becker co-polys to test on. There's more where that came from anyways.
I agree with djNEiGht somewhat.
I agree with djNEiGht somewhat. I would practice with a good soft syn gut or a good soft poly.
EDIT: I would avoid multi string that are too soft you may end up getting stuck trying to get a string in a hole that blocked and have all kinds of headaches. Stiff poly string may cause you to burn the mains weaving the crosses or make it difficult to weave the crosses.
What would you disagree with? Quality of string? Just curious so I don't give wrong advice. You are one of the TT members that have been very helpful to the stringing crowd. Thanks.
Eh, there's nothing wrong with good ol' syn gut.
You know any good brands out there that are reasonably priced?
Gosen OG Micro especially if you buy it by the reel.
I'll look at the Bay to find some great deals on some Gosen strings.
Quality of string don't waste your time just in case you do a good job.
If you like poly strings TW has a good deal ...
You using TW's forum to get info you may as well support them. What do you have to lose?
If you like poly strings TW has a good deal on Gosen Poly Professional 16 $4 a set but they are out. They will put it on back order for you though. According to another thread it plays like RPM Blast. Have no idea if that is true or not. But it is a good deal on co-poly sets. 50% off. To complete your order to get free shipping try a reel or two of OG Micro.
You using TW's forum to get info you may as well support them. What do you have to lose?