Stringer's Idea Share
- Thread starter Suge
- Start date
Head torch would be my solution.
Would like to see more home made reel dispensers. I'm pondering whether I can build something that includes an auto-measure - perhaps clicks for every foot you pull or something.
lwto
Hall of Fame
What kind of stringer do you have?Head torch would be my solution.
Would like to see more home made reel dispensers. I'm pondering whether I can build something that includes an auto-measure - perhaps clicks for every foot you pull or something.
Sparkyovcov
Semi-Pro
Takes up a bit of space and not really necessary. But good job
Suge
New User
Necessity is the mother of invention. Necessary depends on the person and situation... I could have made it smaller but I didn't feel is was necessary...
Sparkyovcov
Semi-Pro
Unnecessary. Just keep tidy
A RAB crank with Wise. I'm now waiting for you to tell me that such a contraption comes for free with the top end models.
lwto
Hall of Fame
No I would never suggest that, but I'm real good at DIY projects and I did one that gives me a 4' string measurement system, a holder for reels and a spindle for a couple of reels to measure off of.
I also use it to measure balance points and racquet weight.
You can make something like this for about 20to30 dollars and it's very easy.
It's a 2 x 4 feet top and you can use 2 filing cabinets to place the top on.
so on the far end, is my reel holder - which is 3 pieces of wood.. 2x8 that I just screwed together and holds the reels and on the end, you can see the two reels, they float freely on a grooved screw, so that the reel wont slide off. I then just run the string from that screw along the length of the table which is marked at 1/2 foot increments with a total of 4 feet. then on the other end is where I can check balance points, I have a tape glued to the top where I measure on.
If you'r crank can be setup for a table top, then your good to go, other wise, might have to go a little mcGyver.
Just a thought.
lwto
Hall of Fame
Search for cable caddy or cable rack... Many reasonably priced ones available.
How about something like this for high volume stringers
While I'm all for building stuff... For something like this... Only if I have the scrap material around.
I initially went that route, but found 1, I didn't like having to taking the spindle on and off and then taking out half the reels to replace one reel. (minor) 2) It takes up a lot of real estate and if you want to measure the string as you pull it, it becomes awkward as you have to almost guesstimate since it would be difficult to have a measuring device at every location where the string is.
IT's why I came up with a free holding device that I can just grab the spool and put it on the spindle to measure along the 4' measuring deivce thats attached.
Suge
New User
I use a 24' tape measure as I pull the string off the reel.
Last edited:
lwto
Hall of Fame
Yeah, sorry, Luckily I"m able to avoid that.
Sparkyovcov
Semi-Pro
I'm six foot, my wing span is about six foot, to my chin is 3ft, to my shoukder is 2 ft, my forearm 1ft, (from my fingers). I don't have to be exact to the mm but this is easy and a quick way of measuring
lwto
Hall of Fame
I"ve tried all those ways and the easiest way, the quickest way and the least messy way(where you don't have to respool the excess string) is having the spool right at the point of measurement.
Roll out 4 or 5 feet, double it up. done. No recoiling the excess, don't even have to put the spool away.
We all have our system, and after trying out, every way, this is what I found out works the best. I tend be precise in my measurements as I can usually get several more sets of strings from my reels.
Roll out 4 or 5 feet, double it up. done. No recoiling the excess, don't even have to put the spool away.
We all have our system, and after trying out, every way, this is what I found out works the best. I tend be precise in my measurements as I can usually get several more sets of strings from my reels.
NilssonTennis
New User
I got inspiration from a toy we recently bought out one year old daughter...the one where you stack rings on a rod/pole with an base?
Yup...just put a hole through the reel casing and slapped a pole on a wooden base, and stacked the reels on top of each other. Stores well, easy to get string out, small, doesn't look hideous...works for me.
I agree though it would be cool to see something specifically and professionally designed for this.
Yup...just put a hole through the reel casing and slapped a pole on a wooden base, and stacked the reels on top of each other. Stores well, easy to get string out, small, doesn't look hideous...works for me.
I agree though it would be cool to see something specifically and professionally designed for this.
Peppershaker
Rookie
Hopefully this link is viewable.
As my # of spools started to increase I wanted to find a better way to handle and measure out string. Initially created the Single Spool holder shown by taking a magnetic pickup, drilling holes (not easy) and then attaching a wall hook device to the front. Worked well, but still had the issue of pulling out spools as needed, and then putting them away.
Have a ready supply of the blue shipping totes (returned one-way containers from work), that I realized could be used to hold spools in manner to allow me to pull out lengths of string as needed. Also liked this because the stock was then also protected from dust and light. In addition the totes could be stacked and by placing the stack on a dollie could be rolled around as needed. Totes were free, white spacers are actually from Gamma overgrips, only had to purchase the threaded rod ($8) and a couple wing-nuts & washers (~$3). Initial design holds nine spools, but should easily handle additional. There is also enough room behind the threaded spools to store replacement spools. So far seems to work well, and has definitively decreased the time it takes me to find, and measure string from my spools.
To measure string I took a metal yardstick drilled and installed some hooks at both end and can use this to measure string as I pull it from the totes.
As my # of spools started to increase I wanted to find a better way to handle and measure out string. Initially created the Single Spool holder shown by taking a magnetic pickup, drilling holes (not easy) and then attaching a wall hook device to the front. Worked well, but still had the issue of pulling out spools as needed, and then putting them away.
Have a ready supply of the blue shipping totes (returned one-way containers from work), that I realized could be used to hold spools in manner to allow me to pull out lengths of string as needed. Also liked this because the stock was then also protected from dust and light. In addition the totes could be stacked and by placing the stack on a dollie could be rolled around as needed. Totes were free, white spacers are actually from Gamma overgrips, only had to purchase the threaded rod ($8) and a couple wing-nuts & washers (~$3). Initial design holds nine spools, but should easily handle additional. There is also enough room behind the threaded spools to store replacement spools. So far seems to work well, and has definitively decreased the time it takes me to find, and measure string from my spools.
To measure string I took a metal yardstick drilled and installed some hooks at both end and can use this to measure string as I pull it from the totes.
eelhc
Hall of Fame
Yardsticks, arms, tape measures... Why?
Almost all racquets are 27" long or 2.25 feet. 4 racquet lengths is 9 feet, 6 is 13.5 feet, 8 is 18 feet, 9 is 20.25 feet, etc... Some racquets are 27-1/2 inches but close enough. I write down how many racquet lengths were cut each time and the lengths of tails left over.
Almost all racquets are 27" long or 2.25 feet. 4 racquet lengths is 9 feet, 6 is 13.5 feet, 8 is 18 feet, 9 is 20.25 feet, etc... Some racquets are 27-1/2 inches but close enough. I write down how many racquet lengths were cut each time and the lengths of tails left over.
lwto
Hall of Fame
Truthfully, you only need to measure 9' to the mid point, then hold the midpoint and double to the end of the initial measurement.
Peppershaker
Rookie
How you measure string, of even if you don't measure and just use arm lengths, would seem to be simply a personal preference. I just happen to prefer an actual measurement and the yardstick with the hooks on the ends works for me and is relatively quick; particularly with my new setup. Per racquet I do record the length cut and will try and track down to 6" the minimum amount of string needed. Is it necessary...nope, is it detrimental....nope.
Yes I do try and eek out as many racquets as possible out of a spool, but besides simply trying to be economical I really do hate filling waste can after waste can with string and in particular with new string.
I do appreciate everyone sharing their preference, you can learn a lot on this board.
Yes I do try and eek out as many racquets as possible out of a spool, but besides simply trying to be economical I really do hate filling waste can after waste can with string and in particular with new string.
I do appreciate everyone sharing their preference, you can learn a lot on this board.
Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
I have been trying to conserve strings too lately. When string starts costing $20 a set every string job you save is money in your pocket. I was brought 5 sets of a poly string ($15 set) yesterday to string. Rather than using that string I used 35' off my reel. 15.5 racket lengths plus about 3". I can then use half the full sets for hybrid jobs reguiring 20' and save another half set off the reel. If I end up just using the sets when the reel is gone it doesn't matter anyway. And If a fellow stringer wants some string I've got a set ready. For poly I prefer reels anyway less coil memory.
eelhc
Hall of Fame
Best to use a standard measure to share stringing experience. xx racquet lengths of yy string at zz tension for mains on a xyz racquet is repeatable for everyone. xx arm lengths is not.
Muppet
Legend
Okay, bumper tape... I never wanted to use it because I hated the thought of replacing it or peeling it off and putting it back on after the racquet is strung. So what I'm doing now is snipping the tape slightly 1/2 way across the width at one end, just to get it started. Then you can tear it in half along the center. Apply each half on either side of the string channel and after that you can keep the tape on even while stringing, or until it is beat up enough to warrant replacement.
I've taken to using bumper tape instead of using lead on the inside of the rim. I can use it across 12:00 position on the outside of the hoop without worrying about it getting in the way of the machine's mount. And the small amount of weight makes more of a difference at about 1 cm higher on the racquet.
I've taken to using bumper tape instead of using lead on the inside of the rim. I can use it across 12:00 position on the outside of the hoop without worrying about it getting in the way of the machine's mount. And the small amount of weight makes more of a difference at about 1 cm higher on the racquet.
lwto
Hall of Fame
Yeah, I always do it that way, a lot cleaner, in fact, I use a third width of the tape. works perfect.
Also, what i've done is taken a piece of the old grommet, cut a 2.5 inch piece out and superglue it to the 11 and 1 oclock position on my racquet. Works great, it's not noticeable at all but provides greater protection than tape. Lets face it, at 11 and 1 is basically the only place you really wear out the grommet.
Yeah, I've never liked head guard tape either.
Possible suggestion:
This MAY be an easier solution. Note: I have not actually tried this, but thinking it through, it's what I would do (or at least attempt) before I had to resort to cutting a piece of head tape cleanly into 2 pieces (or 3, if doing thirds) and then trying to put each one evenly onto the bumper etc.
How about this? With no strings in the racquet, put the single piece of tape on top of the bumper (the way everyone does), keeping the tape pulled taut above the string channel as you do so.
Once it's on there, the portion of tape that is directly over the string channel (and actual holes) will be "suspended" above the channel (and therefore, not actually stuck to anything). Next, take an Exacto knife/razorblade and just slice one long slit straight down the center of the tape (where it's being "suspended" above all the holes).
Now, when stringing, all the strings can pass through the long slit (going in both directions), but will then reside below the surface of the tape once tension has been applied.
Sort of like Head CAP grommets, but obviously much easier to pass through.
In my mind, just seems easier to apply only one piece (nice and centered), rather than cutting loose tape & then fiddling around with 2 separate skinny strips.
If you wanted to get extra fancy, you could also opt to use the Exacto knife to cut out the narrow strip that is "suspended" directly above the string channel (essentially making 2 long slits, rather than just 1).
Any thoughts?
lwto
Hall of Fame
Cause the tape tears easily enough straight, where's if you use a knife, you may not always be straight and since, you don't have a smooth or straight surface, cutting becomes awkward and you may inadvertently knick your racquet. If you just tear it at the width you prefer, you don't need an exacto knife..
Muppet
Legend
Quote/ In my mind, just seems easier to apply only one piece (nice and centered), rather than cutting loose tape & then fiddling around with 2 separate skinny strips. /close Quote
To get the 1/2 tape centered at 12:00, I fold the tape in half so the non-adhesive sides are touching. Then I stick the fold at the center and press one side down, then the other side. This doesn't prove to be much more challenging for me than applying one piece.
To get the 1/2 tape centered at 12:00, I fold the tape in half so the non-adhesive sides are touching. Then I stick the fold at the center and press one side down, then the other side. This doesn't prove to be much more challenging for me than applying one piece.
I suppose I had imagined the tape not tearing so perfectly down the center. Leaving one piece narrower and the other wider... with ragged/tattered edges, as opposed to a clean, sliced edge. But then again, I've never actually tried tearing the head tape lengthwise like that.
Anyway, it was just a thought.
You guys have done it already and know what works. I've tried neither method (as of yet), and probably will never need to.
If someone really wants head tape on their stick, they can put it on there anyway they well please.
It's already bad enough to have to handle that sticky, gummy stuff when a racquet (with head tape on it) gets dropped off (which, fortunately, is almost never).
lwto
Hall of Fame
I suppose I had imagined the tape not tearing so perfectly down the center. Leaving one piece narrower and the other wider... with ragged/tattered edges, as opposed to a clean, sliced edge. But then again, I've never actually tried tearing the head tape lengthwise like that.
Anyway, it was just a thought.
You guys have done it already and know what works. I've tried neither method (as of yet), and probably will never need to.
If someone really wants head tape on their stick, they can put it on there anyway they well please.
It's already bad enough to have to handle that sticky, gummy stuff when a racquet (with head tape on it) gets dropped off (which, fortunately, is almost never).
I always want to charge them extra if I see they have tape on it.
If someone really wants head tape on their stick, they can put it on there anyway they well please.
It's already bad enough to have to handle that sticky, gummy stuff when a racquet (with head tape on it) gets dropped off (which, fortunately, is almost never).
Son. Of. A. B***h.
I just had to say something, right?
Got handed one 2 days ago.
Yes, that means you, Joe.
Amen!!
PBODY99
Legend
Yeah, I've never liked head guard tape either.
Possible suggestion:
This MAY be an easier solution. Note: I have not actually tried this, but thinking it through, it's what I would do (or at least attempt) before I had to resort to cutting a piece of head tape cleanly into 2 pieces (or 3, if doing thirds) and then trying to put each one evenly onto the bumper etc.
How about this? With no strings in the racquet, put the single piece of tape on top of the bumper (the way everyone does), keeping the tape pulled taut above the string channel as you do so.
Once it's on there, the portion of tape that is directly over the string channel (and actual holes) will be "suspended" above the channel (and therefore, not actually stuck to anything). Next, take an Exacto knife/razorblade and just slice one long slit straight down the center of the tape (where it's being "suspended" above all the holes).
Now, when stringing, all the strings can pass through the long slit (going in both directions), but will then reside below the surface of the tape once tension has been applied.
Sort of like Head CAP grommets, but obviously much easier to pass through.
In my mind, just seems easier to apply only one piece (nice and centered), rather than cutting loose tape & then fiddling around with 2 separate skinny strips.
That is exactly what I do. Hard court players using frame that you can't get replacement bumpers for thank me for extending the playing life of their frames.If the bumper is worn down into the composite, I add tape to the frame of one color and a contrasting tape color for the top layer. Sell them the rest of the roll, when they see the base color, replace the top layer.
If you wanted to get extra fancy, you could also opt to use the Exacto knife to cut out the narrow strip that is "suspended" directly above the string channel (essentially making 2 long slits, rather than just 1).
Any thoughts?
Yeah, I've never liked head guard tape either.
Possible suggestion:
This MAY be an easier solution. Note: I have not actually tried this, but thinking it through, it's what I would do (or at least attempt) before I had to resort to cutting a piece of head tape cleanly into 2 pieces (or 3, if doing thirds) and then trying to put each one evenly onto the bumper etc.
How about this? With no strings in the racquet, put the single piece of tape on top of the bumper (the way everyone does), keeping the tape pulled taut above the string channel as you do so.
Once it's on there, the portion of tape that is directly over the string channel (and actual holes) will be "suspended" above the channel (and therefore, not actually stuck to anything). Next, take an Exacto knife/razorblade and just slice one long slit straight down the center of the tape (where it's being "suspended" above all the holes).
Now, when stringing, all the strings can pass through the long slit (going in both directions), but will then reside below the surface of the tape once tension has been applied.
Sort of like Head CAP grommets, but obviously much easier to pass through.
In my mind, just seems easier to apply only one piece (nice and centered), rather than cutting loose tape & then fiddling around with 2 separate skinny strips.
If you wanted to get extra fancy, you could also opt to use the Exacto knife to cut out the narrow strip that is "suspended" directly above the string channel (essentially making 2 long slits, rather than just 1).
Any thoughts?
