Eagnas Combo 910

Discussion in 'Stringing Techniques / Stringing Machines' started by aznfatmonkey, Mar 28, 2010.

  1. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

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    The machine that aznfatmonkey got is actually dark blue, looks black from certain angles or the pictures he posted.

    It does look better than some of the other models I've seen.
     
  2. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    mine will ship tomorrow. it'll be nice to keep fresh wires without having to pay "the man".
     
  3. Uvijek Argen

    Uvijek Argen Semi-Pro

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    I like those colors, congratulation with you machine:)
     
  4. David123

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    congrats on purchasing a machine tbuggle.
     
  5. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    i looked, read, studied and compared. for my money it was a no-brainer.

    if i have to eat my words, i'll let you all know about it.

    i believe i'll be happy with it.
     
  6. Lakers4Life

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    Let us know how it goes.
     
  7. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    i now have a tracking number. i'll be stringing again in a week or so.

    looking forward to new-gained independence!

    kinda like telling "the man" to PI$$ OFF!
     
  8. David123

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    haha post pics and tell us how it goes.
     
  9. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    Congrats for your machine. It looks nice.
    After ~ one month are you still happy with it?
    I am thinking about a Combo 810.
    I have a limited budget ($500) but I'd like a crank.
    Can anybody confirm that 810 and 910 are the same machine, the difference being only the stand?
    Thank you.
    Cheers,
    g
     
  10. jim e

    jim e Hall of Fame

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    It looks like the difference is the stand, but the 910 is only $30.00 more, and you would pay more than that for a decent table to put it on, and the stand is made for the machine, and you would be happier with a decent stand as it would make the job easier access. Plus the model with the stand comes in at $499. which is at your price limit.
     
  11. mad dog1

    mad dog1 Hall of Fame

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    ^ plus tax & shipping would put it around $600.
     
  12. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    Thank you jim_e. Yeah I think your suggestion makes sense.
    With shipping and taxes I guess I will be quite a bit over my budget.
    I am also considering Flex 840/940. I understand the difference is only in the clamps (spring assisted vs cone).
    Do you guys think it is an important feature?
     
  13. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    YOu anticipated me :)
     
  14. mad dog1

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    g, i just sold my combo 910 well under your limit...would've been perfect for you.

    and shipped it to a nor cal buyer... :(
     
  15. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    yeah I know. I saw it on the classified. :-(
    I also enjoyed your recent review. Very nice. ;-)
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2010
  16. Lakers4Life

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    Since you are in Nor Cal, there seems to be a lot of used machines that get listed. If you have the patience to wait, one will pop up sooner or later. You can get a decent machine for about $300. In fact there is a year old Gamma X-St for $550 in the South Bay area Craigslist.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2010
  17. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    ^^^ Ok I'll keep an eye on the classified section.
    thank you for the suggestion.
     
  18. mad dog1

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    Last edited: May 25, 2010
  19. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    Thank you mad-dog1. Very helpful. :)
    Actually on the same site today they posted a NEOS 1000.
    http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/spo/1760065072.html
    that would be an excellent buy...I wish I had that budget.
    And it just 5 minutes from my house.
     
  20. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    my 910 was "only" ~$570 shipped (to NC), with a starting clamp and spring calibrator (which i think is way inaccurate, wouldn't buy it again).

    i'm happy with it so far, but NO it isn't as nice as the more expensive machines. works fine.
     
  21. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    Do I need a calibrator?
    Can I just use a fishing digital scale?
     
  22. mad dog1

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    gflyer, a digital fish scale is fine. actually better imo as long as the range is broad enough. preferably up to 70+ lbs.

    tbuggle, since you're outside of CA, you don't need to pay sales tax that gflyer would need to pay.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2010
  23. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    it's a good idea to have something to calibrate with, but only if you trust it's accuracy.

    i think that would be fine (fisshing scale), only problem i've had in looking for those is that many only go to 50 lbs. I'd prefer to have one with a larger range to calibrate in the range of most stringing i do (upper 50's).

    i have ordered a luggage/pull scale from somewhere in china or somewhere off the BIG site. i'll post up if/when i ever get it...forget the name/brand.

    also, once i get it, i'll compare it to the eagnas spring calibrator, perhaps it works fine and my "senses" are off.
     
  24. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    ahah, yes indeed on the tax point. didn't consider that.

    move to NC?
     
  25. Lakers4Life

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    He's in California, so he has to pay State tax which is about $50.
     
  26. lawdog

    lawdog New User

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    tbuggle: do you get any drawback movement in the clamp when you release tension? I'm thinking about a 910, but read a review that there is some movement when tension is released. Wondering what your experience has been.
     
  27. Lakers4Life

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    All machines have some drawback, some more than others. The best way to counter drawback is the push the base towards the tension before locking down.
     
  28. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    It's unbelievable how many things I have learned in this thread alone.
    Thank you guys!
     
  29. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    I have a digital fishing/luggage scale that goes up to 80lb.
     
  30. mad dog1

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    yeah, exactly. that's what i was doing when i had my combo 910. the neos still produced more consistent results even when i would push the base away from the tension head when locking down.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2010
  31. mad dog1

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    that should be perfect!
     
  32. gflyer

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    I've been reading about the eagnas swivel clamps.
    Many suggested to go with the spring assisted (combo models) but some complained about them and suggested to go with cone ones (flex model i guess).
    Any comments on this?
    I am leaning more towards the spring assisted.
    mad_dog1 I read I read your review and you said they are pretty much equivalent for you. But if you had to choose one?
    Sorry for the too many questions.
    The moment I'll get my new machine I'll get drinks for everybody :mrgreen:
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2010
  33. struggle

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    a little, but i counter it as best i can by pushing the base toward the tension head before clamping it. this seems to work best when clamping against the long axis if the base clamp, not as well when pull is sideways against the clamp. I've also toyed with the adjustment abit for better results (less drawback).

    i think any of them will have some drawback, but certainly if one is going to have more DB i'd imagine the eagnas clamps might be first in line.

    i believe i can produce quality/consistent stringjobs with the 910, although it it NOT as nice as the name brand machines.

    I'd say it was worth the money invested, but i've only strung about 8 frames so far. so, in other words, it almost half paid for itself already....

    edit: maybe 1/3 paid for......all depends....
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2010
  34. mad dog1

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    it's six of one, a half-dozen of the other. the cone swivels don't require as much maintenance/adjusting but require a bit more effort to lock & unlock while the spring assisted swivels are easier to lock/unlock but require more maintenance. you need to tighten them every few string jobs to ensure they aren't slipping. if i had a choice, i'd go w/ the cone lock swivels since they require less adjusting.
     
  35. mad dog1

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    actually, you should be pushing the base away from the tension head before clamping it because when you release tension the string w/ drawback away from the tension head. if you're pushing toward the tension head, you're going to get more drawback.
     
  36. Lakers4Life

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    Since you are using a Glide bar machine it's opposite of a swivle clamp machine. I push against the post/hosel, after clamping the string, towards the tension head.
     
  37. struggle

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    i'm trying to maintain as much of the tension head tension as possible, so it seems counterintuitive to me to push the clamp away from the tension head.
    i push the base clamp toward the tension head after clamping the string, then lock the base. seems right to me, but i'm new to these clamps and willing to learn more. please explain.

    edit: yes, if you are using a ektelon/neos i can see where you are coming from, the bases on those don't move in the same sense during drawback......i think.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2010
  38. Lakers4Life

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    Glide bar machine clamps are dual action. There is a slight amount of slack on the glide bar side rails. In order to reduce draw back, the side closest to the tension head needs to be pushed, before clamping to ensure the slack is taken up.
     
  39. mad dog1

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    when i was using the eagnas, i was first pushing toward the tension head. but i watched the direction that the clamps were getting pulled after i clamped and released tension and the hosels were flexing/getting pulled back away from the tension head so i figured, why not push the hosels the same direction to "preload" the clamps. anyways, i didn't find either method to provide more consistent results. i'm curious if i'd encounter the same inconsistent results on say a star 5 or gamma 6004 stringer. i would venture to guess that i probably would get great results from either of these machines.

    but on the neos, i'm definitely doing what you and lakers4life are saying and getting very consistent results.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2010
  40. Lakers4Life

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    The Gamma 6004 is more easier to use than my Gamma 5003, but the results are pretty much the same.
     
  41. aznfatmonkey

    aznfatmonkey Rookie

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    locking base clamps

    After stringing some racquets, one of my base clamps isn't locking as well. The lever seems like it's loose. I looked on the manual, and the place it told me to adjust doesn't exist on my clamp :confused: If you look at the pictures I posted, it says I'm supposed to adjust something at the place where the black circle thing is, but there's nothing for me to adjust. I tried to see if the black thing was covering something up, but I can't take it off. Help anybody?
     
  42. mad dog1

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    do you have the swivel lock base clamps or cone lock bases?
     
  43. aznfatmonkey

    aznfatmonkey Rookie

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    I have the ones that came with the machine, so I think they're the swivel lock. I posted pictures of it when I first got it on this thread.
     
  44. Lakers4Life

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    I think it's that black dot, it's a cap. There was another picture somewhere around here that shows a allen wrench inserted.
     
  45. alcheng

    alcheng Rookie

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    There are 2 ways you can adjust the clamp base, however, the method mention in the manual doesn't really work. So, please read the following:

    1) If you look under the clamp-base, underneath the turn-table, there are 2 hex-shape nut, you can use a tool to adjust the nut, BUT, just turn a LITTLE BIT at a time cos there are VERY SENSITIVE to the tightness of the clamp base.

    2) On the clamp base, use a tiny screw-driver to take off the plastic cap, which is the round-shape plastic on the clamp base. Once you take off the cap, you'll see a screw which can adjust by the enclosed hex-driver. This screw actually connect to the hex-nut mentioned in (1). Again, adjust this screw LITTLE BIT at a time.

    After each tiny adjustment, lock the clamp base to see is it tight enough, I prefer turning the handle about half way to tighten the base. It's up to you to adjust to you desire level.

    Hope it helps.

    :):)

    ps The 'Cap' I mention in (2) is NOT the black cap, it the cap ON the clamp base, which is a plastic cap painted the same color of the base.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2010
  46. mad dog1

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    yep...what alcheng said...the swivel base clamps need to be adjusted quite often.
     
  47. alcheng

    alcheng Rookie

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    I think it's because the hex-nut underneath the clamp-base get loosen up quite easily.
     
  48. aznfatmonkey

    aznfatmonkey Rookie

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    I've tried turning the hex nuts on the bottom, but they turn without tightening for some reason. I want to try the other way, but I can't find the cap you're talking about.
     
  49. mad dog1

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    check out this thread...there's a diagram in there on page 2 that shows the exploded view of the parts that you can refer to

    http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=326518

    but you should have a black plastic plug that covers this hole that the allen wrench is being inserted into...that's how you make micro adjustments.

    [​IMG]

    in fact i see the black cap on the swivel base clamp of your machine in the photo above.
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2010
  50. aznfatmonkey

    aznfatmonkey Rookie

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    Oh, sorry. I said I couldn't find the cap because somebody else said it wasn't the black cap. Thanks for the quick reply.

    One more question. How do you remove the black cap? Do you just pull it off?
     

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