first stringjob in progress

Discussion in 'Stringing Techniques / Stringing Machines' started by FifteenThirty, May 1, 2014.

  1. FifteenThirty

    FifteenThirty New User

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    Hi all,

    I just finished the mains on my klippermate. Took forever, as I found out TWICE late in my stringing that I wasn't properly lining up the grommet holes

    A few comments and questions:

    1. My knots seem weak as hell.. double knotted but it doesn't seem tight like a pro job. It just looks like 2 knots visibly separate from one another.. will this hold up?

    2. The extra string between the final main grommet and the knot (the one where I skip back to a previously strung main grommet hole to make the final knot) seems... loose. Is this fine as is? Any suggestions to try to tighten this up?

    3. Assuming the strings are even tension, why do they all sound different when I pluck at them? Anyone else have this issue?

    ugh.. and to think I haven't even started crosses!
     
    #1
  2. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    The first knot may hold if it does not get pulled into the grommet too far. Abandon the double half hitch and use some other knot

    When using flying clamps and tension is released the strings tend to twist the clamp causing a lot of unnecessary drawback.

    Assuming they are all even tension is probably a bad assumption as when the mains are strung the frame compresses lowering the tension on the center mains. But if they were since the outside mains are shorter they would vibrate at a higher pitch.

    Good luck
     
    #2
  3. darklore009

    darklore009 Professional

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    there is plenty of videos out there that show you have to start stringing your racket. which racket are you trying to string. all rackets have different stringing patterns that required to skip certain gromments for the crosses.
     
    #3
  4. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    Hummm? Grommets not lining up? Count the number of empty grommet holes (for crosses) on each side of the racket. If you don't have the same number on each side you have a problem and you need to start over with the whole string job.
     
    #4
  5. FifteenThirty

    FifteenThirty New User

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    I'm practicing on a spare wilson prostaff 6.0 95 (the original).. I immediately regretted that decision because this racquet is in pretty good shape and I don't want to mess it up.

    Well the grommets weren't lining up because I mounted it incorrectly both times, so I assumed the the bolt lined up with the middle of the racquets. which they were not.

    I have been following this site's stringing video (two piece). After I lined everything up correctly, the stringing went smoothly, but when I checked back at my work (the knots, the loose string behind the knot, the pitch of each string not matching), everything just seemed so off

    Irvin, all your comments make a lot of sense. But each string vibrates at a different pitch, even the mirror sides. As in, if I pluck the two middle strings or the two outmost strings, they should both sound the same, as the length of the strings and the tensions are assumed to be the same. But they sound different.

    Nobody judges the tension by the sound of the strings?
     
    #5
  6. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    LOL - everyone judges the tension of the strings by sound. Have you ever seen a pro pinging rackets are listening to the sound?

    Many stringers string three strings on one side, then switch to the other side and string 6 mains, then switch back to the first side and finish up then finish the final side. Using this method there is more distortion on the frame that if you never got more than one string ahead. The slower you string the more time the string has to relax which accounts for different pitch. Plucking a main put more tension on the string you pluck which in turn pulls the adjacent strings' tension then after it plucked the tension falls. When starting mains with flying clamps there is no good way to begin and get the tension in all the mains the same. There are many reasons why there are going to be differences in pitch. Don't worry about it. I did run some tests once using the alternate method versus the 3-6 method here are the results showing pitch of like numbered mains. Notice how the pitch of like numbered mains is much more consistent for alternating mains rather than the 3-6 method.

    [​IMG]

    EDIT: Notice how on the 3-6 method the 1st (center) mains had a difference of 50 Hz. That's a lot.
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2014
    #6
  7. GlenK

    GlenK Professional

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    I used to do the 3-6 thing but changed sometime last year to one each side in the same direction, then turn the racquet and go back the other direction with one each side.
    I really don't know if this makes any difference or not but in my mind it makes sense and seems very efficient.
     
    #7
  8. max

    max Hall of Fame

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    I usually use pliers to pull knots tight. Maybe that's something to do.
     
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  9. max

    max Hall of Fame

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    I've always thought, even since a teen, that "sounding" strings was not possible to determine tension. Too many variables, including shape of frame.
     
    #9
  10. David 110

    David 110 New User

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    The method shown on the video below is a good way to make sure that all of the center main strings are reasonably close in tension. The video shows the technique on a lockout machine, but a number of stringers are using it on drop weights like the Klippermate.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHaUrtUqS_M
     
    #10
  11. eelhc

    eelhc Hall of Fame

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    Since I got a machine with 360* rotation I do the same:

    • head side 1: pull tension, clamp, release, thread to throat
    • head side 2: pull tension, clamp, release, thread to throat
    • rotate frame
    • throat side 2: pull tension, clamp, release, thread to head
    • throat side 1: pull tension, clamp, release, thread to head

    Probably takes a minute or two off a string job.
     
    #11
  12. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    #12
  13. GlenK

    GlenK Professional

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    I'm still starting with Yuzuki right now but I'll try this. I presume it just avoids pulling two strings at once.

    And yes eelhc, I really like that method. It just seems to make the process smoother.
     
    #13
  14. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    With some rackets you can't get the starting clamp close to the frame. On rackets with rounded protruding string grommets the clamp twists and looses tension when tension is removed. I use the method to keep a consistent back tension on the anchor clamp.
     
    #14
  15. sobzJM

    sobzJM New User

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    I've switched to Drakulie's method with (mains starting at head) a starting clamp against the inside frame on say RM2 and pull reference tension on RM1 and place the machine clamp. His video is linked somewhere on the boards or you could just check his YouTube library.
     
    #15
  16. jonnyjack

    jonnyjack Rookie

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  17. FifteenThirty

    FifteenThirty New User

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    Done!

    After my "not so satisfactory but not a bad first attempt" stringjob, I went ahead and strung my game racquet.. didn't turn out too bad!

    Thanks for all your suggestions and help.

    I believe what made the first stringjob so difficult was the string I used: Gosen Polyon.. that string is SO stiff and is probably the reason why knotting it was so difficult.

    I also strung the mains one string at a time for each side.. seemed to help out with keeping the tensions similar on both sides.

    I've strung up my IG Prestige Pro with Red Devil @ 46 lbs. Significantly more easier to string.. can't wait to see how it plays!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #17
  18. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    Your knots are hard to tie because you are using a double half hitch the hardest knot to tie off with. Try a Pro knot or Parnell knot. But as long as it does not become untied all is good I'm just talking what is easier and neater.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2014
    #18
  19. sovertennis

    sovertennis Semi-Pro

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    I, too, used the Yuzuki until I saw Irvin's vid. His method is much simpler and avoids the congestion of clamps at the bottom of the frame.

    Irvin, if I have not yet thanked you for that, I'm doing so now.
     
    #19
  20. FifteenThirty

    FifteenThirty New User

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    I'm all for easier and neater..

    Will try those knots next time.
     
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  21. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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  22. IceNineTX

    IceNineTX Semi-Pro

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    I pull knots with the starting clamp. Makes em nice and tight. Don't cut them so close until you get them neater. They may actually loosen up a bit and come undone if they are so close. I usually use parnell, but have a few raquets with huge grommet holes that require double hitch just to have some extra size.

    Welcome to an addicting side hobby. :)
     
    #22
  23. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    A Parnell knot is larger than a DHH
     
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  24. IceNineTX

    IceNineTX Semi-Pro

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    Not for me. The parnell is smaller. Like here in these videos captures.

    [​IMG]
     
    #24
  25. gamerluke

    gamerluke Rookie

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    It's bigger as in "bigger across" -- it is less likely to pull through a grommet hole.
     
    #25
  26. IceNineTX

    IceNineTX Semi-Pro

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    I know what you are saying, but I just have better luck with the DHH on Babolats with bigger holes.
     
    #26
  27. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    Looks can be deceiving. Here is a DHH from racket I strung today.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    I took the photos with my iPad so the quality is low. What you're seeing is two DHH knots. I think what happened is the first DHH pulled into the grommet when the clamp was removed so the stringer tied another DHH on top to cover up the problem. What I'm seeing is the knot on top is much larger than the lower one. The DHH has nothing to hold it out once it gets pulling into the grommet. One it is pulled in it just collapses on itselft. Sometimes the lower half hitch puts pressure on the link to the upper knot to untie the top knot. Many DHH are tied well like the ones in the pictures above but many aren't. I don't think the DHH is any larger than a half hitch. It is just two half hitches anyway.

    After I strung this racket I used a dead man's knot with a Parnell. But instead of using a scrap piece of string I use the tag end of the Parnell (before it was cinched up) between the Parnell and the grommet. Here is a picture of the completed knot that the dead man's in progress with only the Parnell tied.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    EDIT: BTW this knot can be used as a starting knot and from the few times I've used it there is little or no drawback. The mains on the frame are Tecnifibre Ruff Code 1.30 and the crosses are Gosen OG Sheep Micro 16 gauge.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2014
    #27

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