Discussion in 'Racquets' started by User Name, Dec 29, 2007.
Love the lacquer ChicagoJack!!! Well done!
Pictures below. In a nutshell:-
Wilson BLX Juice Pro
Dremel with rough/fine sanding band
Various grit glass paper
3 coats x primer (300ml)
2 coats x matt enamel (300ml)
2 coats x gloss enamel (300m)
1 light coat x gloss acylic simply to even up the finish
1 coat x lacquer clear coat
It's been an interesting exercise and a good learning experience. If I was going to do this again (and if I had the time) I would the following:
1. Spend more time sanding with fine grit to get as much of a flat/smooth finish as possible. The problem with standing of course is that it's incredibly time consuming....
2. Airgun - the finer spray would have been useful.
3. Wouldn't bother using gloss enamel paint again. When it dries, parts of it come out glossy, other parts less glossy, some parts slightly matt. I would use a matt enamel and then coat with lacquer, or just have a matt finish (too much lacquer = too shiny = bit tacky looking).
Primer and first few coats of paint
Surface of the racquet is too bumpy as I didn't fine sand sufficiently and work through the different grits of sandpaper. Going to have to redo this racquet at some point and strip the whole thing back down again...
@ Centryx. In #244 above, how did you get such a smooth/flat finish?
Does anyone here offer to paint frames for a price? Struggling to make time to finish mine. Just a nice glossy black is all I'm looking for.
So much better glossy!!!!!!
Second attempt this time on my other racquet.....
I went through different grits of sanding paper this time (400>600>800) after Dremel'ing off the paint and paint and primer (previously I applied the primer straight after Dremel'ing). Spent more time generally sanding by hand this time with a curved sanding block.
Finish is a lot flatter and smoother, so as far as I'm concerned, spending time finishing the surface and going up the different grit paper ranges is key.
Hopefully the primer and print will go on a lot flatter this time. I'm also going to try and pick a day when the weather is warmer to apply the primer/paint.
I might try a metallic or pearlescent paint this time as a flat coloured paint looks a bit dull and too much lacquer makes it look too shiney.
2nd attempt. Cut out the school boy errors this time.
Went through ALL of the main grits prior to priming
Used 1200 grit for smoothing between coats
Ensured the can of paint was at room temperature / warmer
Used a pearlescent paint this time which seems to give a better finish compared to matt black or black gloss
Weighed racquet beforehand and will use as much paint/coats required to bring it back up to weight
Babolat Pure Storm Tour (left), Wilson BLX Juice Pro (Right)
This is the 2nd racquet I've attempted now and I am very pleased with the finish. I managed to find some pearlescent blue car paint which gave a very nice smooth satin finish that looks lighter or darker depending on the light.
Spent much more time this time around sanding with 800 and 1200 fine grit for a smoother finish, and fine gritting between layers of primer and paint.
I don't think its been mentioned previously in this thread but stripping off the original paint and using a replacement paint seems to change the way the racquet feels. The original paint was very solid and rigid, and contributes to the racquet feeling solid. The replacement paints that I tried seem to be softer and less dense with the result that racquet doesn't feel as solid. Its very noticeable with the Juice Pro because what I liked most about the orginal racquet was how solid it felt. It had that solid block of hardwood feel without any wobble or vibration and would stable even returning the hardest hit shots. It hard to explain but now the racquet feels slightly more 'jangly'. It can only the paint because that's the only change that's been made.
Bear in mind that stripping off the paint right back to the bare graphite can remove up to 30-32g in weight. That's a massive amount, so be prepared to weigh the racquet beforehand so you can bring the racquet back up to its original weight and have a consistent distribution of mass across the hoop and throat. I used probably 4 coats of primer and probably 7-8 coats of paint to bring it back to the original weight spec. For the best finish, you really need to be as patient as possible with the sanding, finishing, painting, drying etc. I could have spent another week doing this.
246g - bare racquet stripped back to the graphite
20g - grommet set
18-20g - replacement grip (Wilson True Grip)
16-17g - strings (poly)
5-6g - overgrip
2g - dampener
1g - misc tape
Total = 308-312g (original weight was 346g)
Originals (with part painted one on the left - originally I tried painting directly onto the lacquer but the paint didn't take very well)
Babolat Pure Storm Tour (Carbon Xtreme) below
Did a 'quick and dirty' job on this one with minimal sanding as its a old racquet I don't really use anymore and it already had a ton of paint chips and scrapes already on it. Lacquer really shows up any surface imperfections.
Original Pure Storm Tour Carbon Xtreme below (on the right)
2)don't apply waterslide decals near grommets they turned out bad when i tried to punch thru them
3) do some of the painting with a set of old grommets installed when i pushed some of the grommets into the holes some of the paint that rolled over into the holes chipped.[/QUOTE]
What I did to work around this is I used a rotary tool. There are different kinds of sanders that you can use to carefully sand through the grommets. Do it slowly though. The water slide decal is flimsy and the paint is brittle.
does a custom paintjob change the flex or the feel of the racket?
Why hasn't anyone tried isolating certain areas of the racquet, like using the existing factory designs and just changing the color or the word Wilson or Head on the racquet. It would take some serious sanding and taping skills, but would look super awesome.
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