Discussion in 'Racquets' started by User Name, Dec 29, 2007.
First attempt at a black out OSU racquet. I will have to see how it plays later.
Weighed my racquets this morning.
White racquet, 4 3/8 grip, w/2 "O" dampeners = 12oz
Black racqet, 4 3/8 grip, w/2 "O" dampeners = 12oz
Black racquet, 4 1/2 grip, w/no dampeners = 11.3oz
Interesting. Would have expected the 4 1/2 racquet to be heavier. SCIENCE!
I like the old WW2 P51's
so I tried to replicate it with my BLX Blade 98
Nicely done, how did you do it? Lots of masking tape or vinyl transfers?
Finished my Aero Pro Drive...
In the end I painted it a matte grey, although it looks black in a lot of the pictures. The last two pictures show its true colour quite well. I think it looks really smart with the contrasting grip
Now I just need to get it strung and it'll look lovely hung up on my study wall!
Thank you, yes it was a bit of a chore but the skinny was painting certain parts, for instance the yellow, then masking it off, the blue in the throat, mask.
The black and white was actually pretty easy, the white is the base coat actually, and then I taped it cross wise with 1/4" electric tape, In the middle where the grommet holes are I slit it down the middle with a razor and peeled off alternate pieces of the tape and painted it black, then lifted the left over tape off and it gave me that checkered pattern.
After I taped it off, I just painted it the silver.. which is a dodge Titanium paint actually.
It's what I used mostly, spray paint from the auto store, since there is so many colors that are supposed to match your car color.
Fair play, that must have taken forever! I would be afraid to use it after putting in so much effort!
Car paints are very good for this type of thing, I've used them before and they seem nice and durable. This time around I actually used graffiti spray paint as I liked the colour... Time will tell how durable it is!
I assume you lacquered it to help protect it?
Actually, it didn't take to long, especially when you rush it.
I was apprehensive about putting over coat on it because I've had some bad luck before with metallic silvers or golds, but it held up pretty well.
Actually I don't use it cause I went with another racquet.
Have you managed to end your racquetholism? Please share your advices
These racquets which I only partially redid, I like them, not as much work but still personalized them.
Probably a good thing you don't use it, that way you can hang it on a wall and admire it
You can put all the lacquer on in the world and it still won't hold up to hitting the court!
Those sticks look awesome without all the gaudy yellow paint and decals.
I agree. I am a big fan of monochrome paint jobs. All you really need is a brand name decal, if that. Some paint jobs are as bad as late 80's cars.
Rackets now strung up and on my study wall
I am new in this forum and consdieirng the topic and the work presetned by all, I need your input and help.
I play with a Volkl SG 10 Mid, which at least for me ....truly love palying with.
I have managed to repaint it in a Dark Pearl Grey with Balck gloss decals adn matte clear coat. The result was quite satisfactoy but here is where I have been struggling the last 2 months...Clear Coating.
If any of you have ever purchased a Volkl or owned a Wilson Pro Staff and tried to remove the original paint you will have noticed that the matte clear coat is quite abrasion resistant let alone its chemical resitance properties. Unfortunately no matter the type of clear coat I have used in many painting efforts (I have 3 rackets...) the perfromance results where poor after 1st time of play or even during the 1st stringing process. Either the string machine would create significnat marks where the pins attach to the rackjet (even if the coating has been baked) or the ball creates huge abrasion marks when it happens to hit the frmae(one hand BH player here). The types of coatings I have used where from automotive custom made 2K matter clear coats (from global brands) to even polyuretahne coatings used to rpotect floors from abrasion. Nothing has worked thus far.
I was wondering what is your expereince and if you have any advice that can help me tackle this.
Thanks in dvance for your kind help..
To be honest I think you're always going to have those issues if you do it yoursef.
Your best bet is taking it to a car body shop and getting them to lacquer it with the spray gun and baking it in their spray booth. That way you'd get a top quality finish that will be durable.
Sounds like the basecoat and the clearcoat are not compatiable or the clearcoat was not catalyzed correct. In other words the clearcoat is not curing correct even if you are baking it out.
If it was my guess you did not use the correct catalyst or the right amount. That's very important in the curing process.
I would suggest to anyone wanting there racket painted is to take it to there local automotive body shop and let professional's handle your project.
It will make your life your easier and without the mess and headaches.
Thanks a lot for the feedback.
Actually I agree with the perspective that any professional work will be superior to mine. I am not a pro in either (painting and tennis that is )
That said, and trying to answer some of the remarks above, the paints and clear coats I have used were chosen as a color and type by me and pressurized in spray cans by specialized employees of 2 different shops. In that sense the ratio mix was not controlled by me. Also, the choice of material that could blend together were considered (Acrylic). Being unaware if I can mention this here and I apologize if I should not- I have used PPG industries base coats and clear coats from their "Refinish" lines which is widely used by many top automotive firms. I would suppose that the guys who blended the materials into the spray cans, knew what they were supposed to do...
On a second note, I find it difficult to accept the fact that a professional spray gun, will have such a materially positive effect in the durability of the outcome. In my case I am pursuing a prolongation of the durability and especially the abrasion resistance characteristics, but rather any abrasion resistance at all! Obviously in that I could be totally wrong!
If you kept hitting a tennis ball against a car door, other than denting the metal, it will be unblemished and the paintwork will not mark. There is obviously something that a professional body shop can do which you cannot, this could be the prep work, paints/products used or the baking process.
It could be worth taking it to a local body shop and getting a quote?
Agree....it appears he is doing it right, but I would go back to the automotive paint shop and tell them your problem and hold them accountable for your adhesion problems. Good Luck!
Gents, thanks again fro the input. richard I agree 100% with the example.
Actually I visited an auto body shop today and he said that even if I did nothing wrong, there is no way one can get the maximum out of a clear coat sprayed by a can vs. one sprayed by a pistol.
As scuh, I will be trying one racket with him to see the results and keep you posted.
I do not agree with what the body shop is telling about the difference between a can and a spray gun. One can of clear is more than plenty for one racket and the application between the two should not be that much difference except you can regulate the spray gun and the can you cannot . I believe the problem is in the clearcoat they made for you. Could be old or outdated clearcoat.
Good to hear, I look forward to seeing the finished product!
If I had the patience and time to do it all over again completely, I'd avoid the clearcoat completely. Unnecessary weight, and prevents you from doing any touch up spraying over time. Just keep it matte.
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