I just purchased a Prince Neos 1000

Discussion in 'Stringing Techniques / Stringing Machines' started by lynnbart, Apr 22, 2013.

  1. lynnbart

    lynnbart Rookie

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    Messages:
    295
    after looking around for quite some time. It is used but appears to be a very clean machine, owned by a family that strung their own rackets.

    If I like it, I'm going to sell my Gamma 602FC dropweight. Any tips or things to look out for from any of you Neos users ? I'd appreciate any help.

    One thing, starting crosses and the knot. Right now I use a starting clamp, string a few crosses, then move a clamp up to the first cross and tie the knot after removing the starting clamp.

    With the Neos and only one clamp on crosses, do you use the tensioner to hold a cross while you move the clamp up to tie off the starting knot ?

    Would love any tips. I'm excited !
     
    #1
  2. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Messages:
    12,259
    Location:
    Marietta, Ga
    You will have to move farther down the racket so you can use the other clamp or string all the crosses to the bottom and tie off and come back up.

    EDIT: I would not remove the starting clamp without pulling tension on the string first. Unless you are using two clamps or have tied off the bottom cross you can't do that.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2013
    #2
  3. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2009
    Messages:
    3,638
    Location:
    Laker Land
    I would not say string all the way down, before tying off the first cross, but far enough down to get the second glide bar in, if you want to use your starting clamp to help pull the tie off.

    Though if you had two starting clamps that would not be a problem.;)
     
    #3
  4. beernutz

    beernutz Hall of Fame

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2005
    Messages:
    4,426
    Location:
    expanding my Ignore List
    So you are using two glide bars when you string your crosses?
     
    #4
  5. Rabbit

    Rabbit G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2004
    Messages:
    12,606
    Location:
    at the bottom of every hill I come to
    First, congrats! You won't regret your purchase.

    This is exactly how I do it as well. Just leave the starting clamp until all your crosses are done and tied off, go back up, pull tension on the first cross, clamp it and then tie it off. Pretty simple.

    You really cannot use two glide bars while doing crosses.
     
    #5
  6. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2009
    Messages:
    3,638
    Location:
    Laker Land
    I've seen the half glide bars, but I'm not exactly sure if they will work on the Neos 1000.
     
    #6
  7. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Messages:
    12,259
    Location:
    Marietta, Ga
    They will not, as there is nothing to support the center.
     
    #7
  8. ten11

    ten11 Rookie

    Joined:
    May 20, 2008
    Messages:
    271
    It won't work. Those half glide bars are for Eketlon machine. The tray that inside the glide bar is empty so the half glide bar can move around. But the neos tray has a divider inside. Those half glide bars enable stringer to do ATW pattern without floating clamp.

    I string almost all the way to the throat. move the one to head and put in the second clamp. Then tie off. I only have one starting clamp and need that to tie the knot. I am thinking to get a flat head pliers or extra starting clamp, so I can finish the cross and then tie off with single clamp. I think that is more convenient and have less things to take care.

    IMO, how far away in cross to tie off the string holding by starting clamp is just personal preference.
     
    #8
  9. beernutz

    beernutz Hall of Fame

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2005
    Messages:
    4,426
    Location:
    expanding my Ignore List
    10neverminds
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
    #9
  10. ten11

    ten11 Rookie

    Joined:
    May 20, 2008
    Messages:
    271
    Not sure what you mean. I had Eketlon H before with half glide bar. plenty support in the center. I actually used it in the beginning for cross because I can put two clamps on it in case one clamp slipped.
     
    #10
  11. lynnbart

    lynnbart Rookie

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    Messages:
    295
    I'm hoping its a good decision. You guys are scaring me abit!
     
    #11
  12. beernutz

    beernutz Hall of Fame

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2005
    Messages:
    4,426
    Location:
    expanding my Ignore List
    Well that's odd since the Neos manual (page 9, steps 14 and 15) describes how to use the short glide bars by installing short bridge bars.

    Disclaimer, I don't own the parts needed to do this with my Neos and therefore haven't tried to do it.
     
    #12
  13. lynnbart

    lynnbart Rookie

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    Messages:
    295
    I string on a machine with fixed clamps right now. After several crosses are strung I go back and pull tension on the first cross, move a clamp up to it, remove the starting clamp, and tie off. The other clamp is holding a cross.
     
    #13
  14. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Messages:
    12,259
    Location:
    Marietta, Ga
    I was addressing a NEOS 1000 specifically there is no center support.
     
    #14
  15. ten11

    ten11 Rookie

    Joined:
    May 20, 2008
    Messages:
    271
    #15
  16. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Messages:
    12,259
    Location:
    Marietta, Ga
    If you pull tension on a cross let's say the third or forth and hold that string with the tension then you can move the clamp up to the top cross. Now the starting clamp and the machine clamp is holding the top cross. But ALL the tension is still held by the starting clamp and not the machine clamp. When you remove the starting clamp the string will slip but the machine clamp will take over. BAD IDEA don't do that. If you string about 7 or 8 cross then you can hold the lower cross with a machine clamp and go back up and tension the top cross. Then you take the tension on the starting clamp and can use the machine clamp. Not a bad idea but what do you gain? I would go all the way to the bottom.
     
    #16
  17. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Messages:
    6,723
    Whoa, there's a lot of advice in this thread from people who have obviously never used a NEOS ;)

    Lets keep it simple, here, fellas...

    This is a huge waste of time -- just string all the way down and come back to the top to finish off the top knot. There is very little justifiable reason to come back up in the middle of the crosses besides "risk" of accidentally bumping the starting clamp.

    Yes, don't do the tension and re-clamp top cross method... that's going to turn out VERY loose. Just finish your crosses and come back up.

    I mean, you CAN... it's just kind of silly...

    Yes, they work.

    Yes, there is. There's a divider in the top tool tray that is used to rest the half glide bar wheels on. I have used them for years. They work.

    You realize the NEOS1000 was sold under the Ektelon AND the Prince brand names, correct? The tray is not empty:
    [​IMG]

    The separator is for the half glidebar to rest the wheel on.

    Yeah, it's in the manual because that's what it's designed for ;)

    The divider IS the support.
     
    #17
  18. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Messages:
    6,723
    Yes, exactly. There's very little REASON to do any of the above. Just string all the way to the bottom, tie off, and then come back to the top. Don't fiddle with glide bars when you don't have to. It's a non-trivial time loss, AND if you are holding the frame fixed via the tensioner (so it can't rotate around), it can be a HUGE PAIN to get the other glide bar on the machine (if it's being blocked by the tensioner, etc). Use the KISS method.

    If you disagree, tell me: Why do you tie the top cross off before finishing the crosses at all? If it's because you don't trust yourself OR you don't trust your starting clamp, you should be using a starting knot, IMHO. Trust your tools, that's why they're there. There's no tension/measurable benefit to double back besides this, though, IMHO, unless I'm missing something :)
     
    #18
  19. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Messages:
    12,259
    Location:
    Marietta, Ga
    Just trying to make sure we are not talking about something out of context. I see there is a center support on the NEOS 100 but does the NEOS 1000 come with a short glide bar or are they even an option? I am lost here. I know I had short bars on my Prince P-100 but they would not work on a NEOS 1000 I am sure. Do you have a picture of these short bars that will work?

    EDIT: I really want to see how those wheels pass each other moving down the racket.

    EDIT: I am aware there are some glide bar machines that have short glide bars but I am not sure the NEOS 100 is one of them.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
    #19
  20. lynnbart

    lynnbart Rookie

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    Messages:
    295
    Thanks, that led to my next question. Is a bulky knot to start the crosses with really that bad ?

    I should clarify also that I'm not stringing for business. I live in an area that is 100 miles to the nearest pro shop. Many of the young players in the area don't have the means to travel that far very often to string a racket.

    It's something I do as a way of giving back to a game that I really enjoy and has been good to me. If they don't pay me for strings its okay and most of the kids I don't charge any labor if they will just keep playing. Some pay me every now and then, some kids parents never know we strung their racket.

    I'm hoping that a NEOS will give me some consistent string jobs for a long time without having to spend "real" money on a higher end machine.
     
    #20
  21. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Messages:
    12,259
    Location:
    Marietta, Ga
    I prefer not to use a starting knot because the knot is pulled into the grommet but there is nothing wrong with using one.
     
    #21
  22. beernutz

    beernutz Hall of Fame

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2005
    Messages:
    4,426
    Location:
    expanding my Ignore List
    I don't want to hijack the thread further than it has already been but since this was brought up by the OP, what is the advantage, if there is one, of starting crosses on a Neos using a starting clamp as opposed to tying a starting knot?

    I've always done the latter even though I own a starting clamp. What benefit am I missing out on?
     
    #22
  23. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Messages:
    6,723
    There's nothing fundamentally wrong with a starting knot. It can squish grommets and it can get sucked in, as Irvin said. This problem is greatly exaggerated if you use an improper knot, obviously. Also note that there's a slip designed in to the knot so it prevents crushing of the anchor string. Starting clamps allow for consistent knots (and knot tails), which is an aesthetic benefit. A benefit of the starting knot is that you don't get that tension loss that you'd get from any regular knot -- the top cross will be a little tighter.

    Edit: I haven't used the bulky knot as a starter before, I'm unconvinced on its ability to slip, but there are at least two slip points designed into the knot. I think it has more crushing potential as compared to the standard two loop + slip starting knot, thoguh.

    None, really. I personally don't like the way a starting knot's tail pokes out towards the string bed.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
    #23
  24. Rabbit

    Rabbit G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2004
    Messages:
    12,606
    Location:
    at the bottom of every hill I come to
    I own a Neos. I use a starting clamp simply because I feel as though you get better results with one than a starting knot. It is also less intrusive to the grommet.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
    #24
  25. Rabbit

    Rabbit G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2004
    Messages:
    12,606
    Location:
    at the bottom of every hill I come to
    http://img.tennis-warehouse.com/pdfs/NEOSManual.pdf

    Page 9 shows short glide bars for the Neos.

    They are also listed in the parts and components for the Neos.
     
    #25
  26. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Messages:
    6,723
    I think they were an add-on option. I didn't purchase the machines that I worked on, so i can't say whether or not they came in the retail package. I would NOT be surprised if it was only an option for an Ektelon (NEOS). The two machines I worked on were both NEOS1000 models, but one was Ektelon branded (and no, it was not an H), and one was Prince branded. In short, I assume it is an option, or it came with the Ektelon machine. There were also badminton clamps and some really weird high profile, wide toothed clamps.

    Wheels pass down the track fine, but I don't have direct access to the machine at the moment. I'm moving (back) to Seattle in a week or so, I'll snap a pic if I get a moment (and if I can find the half-length clamps). I'll have to ask a buddy for access.
     
    #26
  27. ten11

    ten11 Rookie

    Joined:
    May 20, 2008
    Messages:
    271
    Yulite's bulky knot in youtube has it points to the frame and I actually like it. check it out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UT1cXy-6Wz0

    I worked on both neos and Eketlon and have the Eketlon half glide bar with wheel. I don't think it will work on the divider in neos, unless there is a different half glide bar designed for neos, which is very possible.
    My post was to answer the center support question by Irvin. Sorry for hijack the thread.
     
    #27
  28. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Messages:
    6,723
    Yep, I did a reality-check peek of that video before you posted and edited my post. It looks fine from what I can tell, I'd want to see it on my machine and "feel" and watch how tension is pulled on it before making a final call, though. It seems like it will slip VERY differently than a standard starting knot, but I can't say whether or not it's a good or bad thing without doing it.

    Did you work on an Ektelon NEOS or an Ektelon H? The NEOS is identical to the prince version. If it was an H or D, the rail that was posted earlier in the thread is very similar height to the glide bar groove -- on the NEOS, it's the same height as the top of the turn table. Very little difference in operation, actually. The clamp itself looks a bit different, though.
     
    #28
  29. ten11

    ten11 Rookie

    Joined:
    May 20, 2008
    Messages:
    271
    Neos 1000 and Ektelon H. I can switch use the glide bar so the size of the tray is same. For short glide bar, two bars meet in the middle of the tray of Eketelon H. So if there is a big divider in middle like neos has, it won't work. The wheel cannot rest on neos divider, it is just too high.
     
    #29
  30. ten11

    ten11 Rookie

    Joined:
    May 20, 2008
    Messages:
    271
    DD, please confirm back to us. There are just too many guess in tw thread. We need to know it is just personally preference or good practice. You have worked in tournament and has more credential than a lot of us home stringers.
     
    #30
  31. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Messages:
    12,259
    Location:
    Marietta, Ga
    I just talked to Pete at Prince tennis he said they made them originally on the Ecktelon machine but they found out early on they were not needed and they have not been available for over 20 years.

    Tere is also the VS Starting knot which has the tail pointed towards the frame.

    Thanks
     
    #31
  32. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Messages:
    6,723
    I mean... thanks for the kind words, but this is truly something you can test at home. I'd be happy to string a bulky knot on my next frame, but I'm actually in the middle of a cross-state move, so that won't be for a while :)

    My check-out procedure would look like this:

    Take a well used frame with smooshed/worn-in grommets. String a moderately thin multifilament that exhibits ghosting when crushed (even by firm clamp pressure or linear gripper tensioner pressure).

    Tie a standard starting knot and string the top cross, tension and clamp. Tie a bulky knot on the other side, tension the second cross, clamp. Release tension on both knots. Inspect the way they sit on top of the grommet. The standard starting knot can actually ball up pretty tightly, and DEFINITELY can pull into the frame on very thin strings. See if the bulky knot sits on top of the grommet better (without damage). I suggest using a well used frame so you can see the worst case. Grab the tails (or the knots) carefully, and slide them up the string. Both knots should move relatively easily along the anchor. Inspect the area where they previously sat. Is there any ghosting? Some is normal, but you'll know when a knot is crush-inducing. There'll be physical dimples/denting on the anchor. A tiny bit is OK, but if there's any mangling, avoid the knot.


    IMHO, though, if YULitle is posting a video of it on youtube, it's probably fine -- it's a popular knot, I just don't use it since I always have a starter on me when I string. I'd be happy to follow up when it is convenient for me, though :)
     
    #32
  33. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Messages:
    6,723
    Which Ektelon machine, though? The half-length glide bars I used are not the same as the others that were posted in the thread. There was no inside-rail wheel, so there was definitely one designed for the NEOS. Also -- is Pete a machine designer at Prince, or just a customer service rep? I'm not doubting your claims at all -- I just have to take the anecdote with a grain of salt unless the guy is involved with decisions regarding machine manufacturing and design.

    There's definitely a purpose for half-length glide bars, but you can definitely do the work without them (I rarely used the half length bars myself).
     
    #33
  34. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Messages:
    12,259
    Location:
    Marietta, Ga
    Pete is an MRT at Prince that addresses all the stringing questions. I know he has been involved in racket design also but to what extent I am not sure.
     
    #34
  35. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2009
    Messages:
    3,638
    Location:
    Laker Land
    DD, I currently own a Ektelon H machine, I bought off a friend because I found him a Neos 1000. I've tried to string on an Ektelon just for S&G (Laughs), and have taught a few people who own a similar machine. I have more than one starting clamp, but not everyone is like myself. (A starting clamp and Awl collector) :D

    Everyone has a different collection of tools, some more than others. Like I always say, "One starting clamps is useful, the second one is handy." We are all limited to the tools we have available.

    I guess if one had the floating clamps, that could be used to hold the first cross to free the starting clamp. Not all Prince Neos 1000 came with the floating clamps.
     
    #35
  36. lynnbart

    lynnbart Rookie

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    Messages:
    295
    With the NEOS and a 1 piece string job, do you pull tension on the first cross and let the tensioner hold that while you move a glide bar and remove the other ?
     
    #36
  37. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Messages:
    12,259
    Location:
    Marietta, Ga
    There are a few ways and it will depend on the pattern you are using. You will either have to tie off the short side or hold it with a starting or flying clamp. Then remove the machine clamp on the short side. Then use the long side to run a cross and move the clamp on the long side to hold your crosses.

    EDIT: That is assuming you are not using short glide bars. If you have a short glide bar you can have a short and long glide bar on at the same time they just can't both be on the same side.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
    #37
  38. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2009
    Messages:
    3,638
    Location:
    Laker Land
    That's pretty much what I would do. If you have a starting clamp you can use it to hold the first cross while you switch the glide bar from mains to crosses.
     
    #38
  39. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Messages:
    6,723
    Ditto. I avoid one piecing on the NEOS because of this (I have no personal preference for style). If it's requested, I'm happy to oblige, but I string a high percentage of polys or hybrids, so I don't really have the opportunity to string one pieces. In this instance, I'd use the starter so you can easily maneuver the glide bar on and off the machine (freedom of rotation).
     
    #39
  40. lynnbart

    lynnbart Rookie

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    Messages:
    295
    Okay,,I keep forgetting how much I can use a starting clamp.

    Pull tension on the first one piece cross, clamp with the starter, change the glide bars, and then retension with the crank, remove the starter and clamp with glidebar clamp. Sound about right ?
     
    #40
  41. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Messages:
    12,259
    Location:
    Marietta, Ga
    Why use a starting clamp to do that? Pull tension, switch clamps around and go. Using a starting clamp is a waste of time and causes unnecessary wear on the string where it is clamped in that scenario.
     
    #41
  42. Arthuro

    Arthuro Semi-Pro

    Joined:
    May 27, 2010
    Messages:
    594
    A bulky knot does reduce the ability of the knot to be pulled into the grommet, but it does, can, squash the grommet.

    Are you a fan of giving the starting pull extra tension? This effects the "squishing" effect that you seem concerned with.
     
    #42
  43. anubis

    anubis Hall of Fame

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2012
    Messages:
    3,032
    This is where a flying clamp comes in handy. I have a machine that is very similar to the Neos 1000. I too start my crosses with a starting clamp, and I too also use just one fixed clamp when stringing the crosses.

    My solution is, right around the 5th or 6th cross that I tension, instead of clamping down with the fixed clamp, I instead use a flying clamp (Stringway double). That frees up the single fixed clamp that's still on my machine. You pull tension on the first string, remove the starting clamp, and then take your fixed clamp and set it on the inside of the hoop on that 1st string. Then, tie-off and viola!
     
    #43
  44. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Messages:
    6,723
    I'm a fan if it's a machine function -- it's really a consistency call. If I were working on a dropweight or a crappy electric machine (read as: inaccurate analog dial), I'd avoid this whenever possible. It takes some time to adjust, but on my 5800 I just hit a "knot" (+10%) button and I'm good to go. I'll do this on ALL knots ALL the time. If I were working on a different machine I'd just skip it altogether. It's one of those systematic things, but I stick with the same process depending on the machine I'm on. If I'm in a position to hand a frame to a customer, they get the same thing every time.

    I take it you've never done the awkward clamp dance ;) It's not strictly necessary, and it's really a preference thing, but when the turn table is locked (and blocked) by the tensioner, it can be VERY awkward to swap the glidebars. It's not always the case, but on a long day, I'd prefer avoiding the awkward stoop. Maybe it's just been a long time since I've worked on the machine, and I'm remembering it being way more awkward than it is, though...
     
    #44
  45. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Messages:
    12,259
    Location:
    Marietta, Ga
    Been there and yes I have done that. I used to string on a Prince P100 for years. It really gets interesting when there is no starting clamp and you want to do an ATW pattern. I used to string my Wilson Prostaffs with an ATW pattern all the time and my two son's Wilson Ceramics not to mention a host of other rackets.

    BUT if you are stringing a one piece pattern assuming you tie off at the head and you not doing any ATW pattern. Your short side is tied off and you're pulling the top cross away from the long side so the tensioner will not be blocking the long side clamp.

    EDIT: If you're using the one piece pattern I introduced not long ago I would use a starting clamp to hold the short side but I would use the long side to string all the bottom crosses first and tie off. Then go back up and finish the top few crosses.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2013
    #45
  46. lynnbart

    lynnbart Rookie

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    Messages:
    295
    I'm looking forward to stringing on it, if it will just hurry up and get here. I was able to buy it at a really good price and hopefully it will retain its value if I end up not liking it.

    I was swaying back and forth really hard about getting the NEOS or buying a Wise that would update my Gamma. For some reason I've been drawn to the 2 point mounting of the NEOS and I just couldn't pull the trigger for the Wise.

    Oh, well. We'll see soon enough!
     
    #46
  47. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2009
    Messages:
    3,638
    Location:
    Laker Land
    Sounds right. I agree with DD that does take a few steps to change from Mains to Crosses on the NEOS. They are wasted moves, but you really don't have many options, other than tying off and do a two piece, or hold the cross with the tensioner while changing the glide bar position.
     
    #47
  48. lynnbart

    lynnbart Rookie

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    Messages:
    295
    My NEOS came in today. Assembly was easy enough. I bought it used and overall it appears to be in great shape. I can tell its been in the garage awhile,,,needed some dusting.

    My first thought putting it together was that I was going to hate the glide bars. They were very rough and wouldn't slide,,starting to regret. After wiping everything down with some alcohol wipes, I went ahead and mounted a racket.

    After just a couple of mains I realized quickly that I may love the glide bars. Clamping is faster and much easier, and really no drawback. My Gamma has the plastic/steel clamps and the NEOS definately feel different, but I like it. I was worried about crosses but its a breeze and really nice without the extra stuff in the way.

    The 2 point mount is another plus,,really nice and stable. Right now I like it better than the 6 point.

    2 rackets strung tonight and I think I may have a winner. I know many of you guys already have been there with the NEOS, but I just wanted to share.
     
    #48
  49. MAX PLY

    MAX PLY Hall of Fame

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2008
    Messages:
    1,714
    ^^

    Congratulations on the new (to you) machine. I think you will enjoy it. As you are finding out, glide bar clamps are quite efficient and can be a pleasure to use. You have already found out the "secret" to smooth operation--keeping it clean. It also helps to keep it covered when not in use (I think they come with covers now-was yours included?). Good luck.
     
    #49
  50. lynnbart

    lynnbart Rookie

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    Messages:
    295
    Thanks, I wish that it did have a cover but I'm going to keep it inside.

    The tensioner seems to be a bit sluggish and dry. I may remove the cover tonight and try to clean on it some.

    I may already be spoiled, the 2 pt mounting really opens everything up, especially the crosses..

    One other question: When you pull tension and it locks out, is it really okay to just push the lockout bar back to release? I feel like I need to hold on the handle to keep it from jerking back when you release. I don't like being hard on anything.
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2013
    #50

Share This Page