"inventing" my own pattern...

Discussion in 'Stringing Techniques / Stringing Machines' started by eelhc, Apr 26, 2013.

  1. eelhc

    eelhc Hall of Fame

    Jan 21, 2013
    I've been stringing for several months now and have been getting better (faster and more consistent) and have gained some confidence now.... Enough so that I can't leave well enough alone.

    The racquet I string most often is the Weed X-One25 as it is quite popular at my club and several people I string for play with it. This is a bit of an unusual racquet. It is huge and require that the tensions be dropped off at the outside 3 mains and crosses although (for warranty) though no one's noticed any problems or difference at constant tension (in fact the pros at the club recommend that it be strung at constant tension).

    That aside, the string pattern is:

    skip 8T 10T 8B 10B 11B
    shared: 11T, 12B
    tie off: mains - 4T or 7T; crosses - 4T or 7T, 6B

    With either a 1 piece or 2 piece string job, there's a lot going on at the top from 11T (last main) to 4T, 7T (tie off) and 8T (cross start).... String bunches up in triples with tough grommets to thread through.

    I've been staring at my most recent 1 piece string job and have noticed that if instead of tying off the shortside main (exit through 11T and tie off at 7T), I continued it for the first cross (exit through 11T, 1st cross through 8T and tie off at 4T on the "long" side), I can clean this up quite a bit and it would be easier to string. I would have to start the crosses from the long side on the 2nd cross.

    I can think of nothing wrong with this pattern but then again... I'm a newcomer to stringing. I realize this is tough to visualize but basically it's weaving the first cross with what's left over on the shortside main. Any issues with this patern?
  2. coachrick

    coachrick Hall of Fame

    Feb 19, 2004
    Austin, hook 'em, Texas
    At first thought, I don't reckon there's a problem with what you've suggested. However, the Weed line presents some particular challenges given the size and the propensity of the frame to 'breathe'. You don't want to torque the face of the frame any more than necessary.

    I'd likely stick with the proportional stringing for the outer 3(or so) mains and crosses, but I've had customers who didn't care and couldn't tell the difference in play.

    I'm also trying to figure why you wouldn't tie off the 'extra' cross/main at the original tie-off hole instead of moving to another(generally the shorter the span, the better).

    You picked a tricky brand/design to start experimenting...good on ya but be careful. ;)
  3. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

    Mar 15, 2007
    Marietta, Ga
    Many people have been using the short side to string the top cross for a long time. Not too bad for this frame but on most rackets you have a short section of frame then supporting the transition from the long side outside main to the second cross.

    With your method it is going to be difficult if you have glide bars or flying clamps and no starting clamp.
  4. Rabbit

    Rabbit G.O.A.T.

    Feb 11, 2004
    at the bottom of every hill I come to
    what does it matter? It is certainly less of an issue tha stringing bottom up or double pulling tension.

    In my experience, the benefit from stringing the first two or sometimes 3 crosses using the short side enables you to tie off on a cross which is always preferred. This also helps with an even tension on both outside mains. The long side most times starts the 3rd cross (sometimes the 4th).

    From a strictly aesthetic standpoint, stringing the first one, two, or three crosses and tying off on a cross is gives the string job a very clean look as well IMO.
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013

Share This Page