Is it hard to string Natural Gut?

Discussion in 'Strings' started by r2473, Feb 29, 2008.

  1. r2473

    r2473 Legend

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    I string my own racquet with my ATS Super Stringer 2 (cheap drop weight much like a Gamma X-2). Currently, I use a hybrid with poly in the mains (a generic that I quite liked, comparing head-to-head with Lux. BB power; 16 ga.) strung at 50 lbs and Prince Syn. gut in the crosses at 65 lbs; 16 ga. My racquet is a Babolat AeroPro Control. I play mainly a baseline game. 4.5 player. Good, hard serve.

    I was considering trying natural gut in place of the Prince in the crosses.

    1) Is there anything special I should know about stringing natural gut?
    2) Does it need to be "pre-stretched"? If so, how should I do this?
    3) What brand would you recommend? Babolat VS? Babolat Tonic+? Klip Legend?


    Since switching to this hybrid setup and going with the 50 / 65 tension setup, I rarely break strings. I usually cut them out before they break. When I used a full Prince Syn. Gut setup at 65 lbs, I broke strings fairly often.

    Thanks in advance for answering my questions.
     
    #1
  2. YULitle

    YULitle Hall of Fame

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    1) http://www.******************.com/Sinfo6.php
    2) Only if you want to. Why would you want to? It helps promote tension life and it removes coil memory (making it easier to string.)
    3) Anything Babolat/Pacific/Klip is just fine. :D



    Replace the ****'s above with "grand slam string ers" No spaces, of course.
     
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  3. r2473

    r2473 Legend

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    Thanks! Nice website. Tons of info.
     
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  4. samster

    samster Legend

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    If doing a full gut job, coated Legend is probably the easiest to string in my experience compared to Babolat VS. If you are just doing crosses, all three are pretty easy to string. Just be careful when you are pulling to prevent kinks. I don't prestretch.
     
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  5. jim e

    jim e Hall of Fame

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    Actually, with the way I string , I have to be more cautious with the coated Klip armour pro compared to VS, as the coating will come off in a powdery residue if you straighten the cross string when you tension, which is what I usually do. ( while tensioning the cross, I usually push the cross towards the previous cross, so then while tensioning, the cross is pulled straight and then clamped, as if it was not straight, and straightened later, could be a tension loss problem so I straighten the crosses while pulling and not so much after the job is done). Problem with armour pro is the coating will fray off when tensioning straight across, leaves a powder residue over the machine.
    I could protect this string during the pull by leaving it in a semi- circular shape by not pushing it close to the previous pulled cross string. Make the weave and pull gently with your hand until the string resisted the pull--then tensioned it, and then straighten and clamp (using constant pull machine). This will reduced the friction on the string and help preserve the coating during the installation of the cross strings.
    I only had this issue the 1st time using this string, but another stringers board had this suggestion on stringing the crosses with this string and it now is no longer an issue, just have to be carefull, and it takes a little more time.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2008
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