Klippermate gripper question

Discussion in 'Stringing Techniques / Stringing Machines' started by RonSon, Mar 29, 2011.

  1. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    I have a brand new klippermate and have strung my racket, a prince pog mid, three times. I have cleaned the string gripper very well but my strings continue to slip a little. The first time it started slipping I was using alpha gut 2000 and I figured it was the strings. I just strung my racket with mantis comfort and I cleaned the gripper thoroughly before I started. But it still started slipping. Assuming it's the strings and not the gripper what can I do to keep the strings from slipping. I'm using head rip in the mains could that be causing the slippage for the crosses? Or is it the gripper?
     
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  2. bcart1991

    bcart1991 Semi-Pro

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    Tighten the gripper a bit? If I string 16ga then string 17ga, I usually have to tighten the clamp a touch.

    Tighten the screw on the end of the handle, not the screws on the jaws.

    If you mean on the tension mechanism, make sure it's good and clean AFTER you sand it to get the residue off.
     
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  3. ricardo

    ricardo Professional

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    Make sure the gripper is actually slipping, not the string just stretching...

    I had the same problem when stringing Wilson Sensation using Gamma x-2.

    I initially thought that the string gripper (not the clamps) is slipping. Someone at Gamma told me to mark the string as close to the gripper jaw as possible and watch if the line moves away from the gripper jaw.

    I resumed stringing. When tensioning, i can visibly see the string moving backwards to the racket frame. I thought this was evidence of slipping. However, when i look at the mark, it did not move at all: the line and the gripper jaw are still together. What i thought to be string slipping is actually the string just stretching back/forth while it is being tensioned.

    this maybe what is happening to you too...
     
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  4. Carolina Racquet

    Carolina Racquet Hall of Fame

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    That was my first thought... The more elastic strings, especially strung at high tension really feel like string is being released from the tension jaw.

    Being your machine is almost new, there shouldn't be excess residue yet.

    Always remember you can call Klippermate and their great customer service team will help you walk through the possible problems.
     
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  5. max

    max Hall of Fame

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    Yeah, I call them even on the most modest difficulty.
     
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  6. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    I sent klipper an email yesterday. My main concern is when the bar gets to horizontal, and I'm ready to clamp, the bar starts to go below horizontal and I can feel the string slipping with my left hand while it's on the gripper. The first string job it happened with was the alpha gut. So I had my 11 year old son hold the bar right when it got to level. I use a line level and I watch the bubble. Once it was level, he held the bar in position before it could slip, and I clamped. But he wasn't here yesterday and although the mantis did not slip as much, it still was a little bit of a problem. Is there something I can use on soft, slippery strings that will make them more grippable like the head rip?
     
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  7. Gamma Tech

    Gamma Tech Professional

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    have you tried marking the string to see if it is actually slipping?

    from what i'm reading it sounds like the normal constant pulling of a drop weight.
    bret
     
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  8. jgrushing

    jgrushing Rookie

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    Also, you don't want to support the bar or weight at all during the clamping process. If you do that, you are not getting an accurate pull. The arm and weight must be resting on their own.
     
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  9. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    Not only is it not accurate it is not constant pull.

    Irvin
     
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  10. max

    max Hall of Fame

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    This is my guess, too. I've pulled Alpha 2000 on a Kmate. You'd be surprised at how disparately synthetic guts elongate.
     
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  11. max

    max Hall of Fame

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    RonSon; just curious. I tried the bubble-level on the bar thing last year, using wire to stick the thing on. It didn't work well. How do you have the bubble weight affixed?
     
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  12. jgrushing

    jgrushing Rookie

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    Trying to use a level is really overthinking this. If you'll look at the dropweight physics thread, you'll see that "eyeballing" level is just fine.
     
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  13. theyhatethecans

    theyhatethecans New User

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    I try to clean the gripper every time after I string and this helps a lot. When stringing really slippery strings, I take an additional pass around the gripper (so that the string goes thru the jaws twice), and then the string never slips. It does take longer and makes the tension more difficult to adjust but cures any slippage issues(whether or not their is residue on the gripper).
     
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  14. theyhatethecans

    theyhatethecans New User

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    Can't wait until I can edit my posts. I never put their when there is called for but i did their.
     
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  15. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    I use one of those real small line levels and I tape each end to the bar with electrical tape. It works perfect.
     
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  16. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    What I had my son do is hold his hand right underneath the drop weight, just in case it slipped. He's not really holding it, his hand just stays in case it suddenly drops. I didn't want to snap strings.
     
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  17. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    You're right on the money. I talked to the klippermate people today and that is exactly what they said. Thanks.
     
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  18. aussie

    aussie Professional

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    Yes, you both beat me to the reply. Klipper recommend that when certain heavy silicone coated strings slip thru the jaws to wrap the string around the jaws once and then feed between the jaws and tension. This guarantees 100% that the string will not slip BUT it is a pain to adjust the amount of string in the jaws.

    I'd recommend trying this first before the above: try cleaning the smaller jaw before you string the mains and then again before you start on the crosses. The smaller jaw plays the more important role in the gripping process and cleaning it during the job can often overcome the slipping you are experiencing.
     
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  19. jbs24

    jbs24 Rookie

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    I never liked how smooth the klipper grip faces were.

    I used to tape white cloth athletic tape to the faces and cut slots for the string. That worked really well, and you just put on fresh tape if it gets dirty, which isn't often
     
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  20. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    It might take a little longer but I like to take my time and do a good job. I haven't encountered problems with the clamps. But then again I've only strung a few times.
     
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  21. TenFanLA

    TenFanLA Hall of Fame

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    So to clarify, are you (1) going around the whole jaw once and then going around again but this time feeding it thru the jaws, or (2) feeding it thru the jaws both times?
     
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  22. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    Number one above. I haven't done it yet. Once I do I will be reporting back.
     
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  23. TenFanLA

    TenFanLA Hall of Fame

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    I tried (1) with both Polystar Energy 17g at 50 lbs and Gosen OG Micro 17g at 50 lbs. NO slippage! Awesome! Thanks for the tip.
     
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  24. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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  25. max

    max Hall of Fame

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    Is poly the stuff that slips so much? What strings seem slippy? I just use regular synthetic gut and haven't had this problem.
     
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  26. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    I've only done a few string jobs, but the alpha gut 2k was very slippery. The mantis comfort synthetic slipped a little but not nearly what the alpha slipped. I was actually wiping the alpha with a towel while I was stringing it.
     
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  27. max

    max Hall of Fame

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    Ron that's pretty wild! I used Alpha 2000 a couple of times (in the end, I was testing it against some other synthetics: Gosen OG Sheep Micro, Gamma Gut 2, Gamma Gut 3, Babolat Syn Gut and Prince Synthetic Gut: I ended up finding Prince Synthetic Gut Soft, which is now called Ektelon Power Play and available through TW's racquetball division).

    Long winded digression there. I just remember stringing it up, Alpha, a few times, but I must've had dry stuff. I might not recall this entirely, but I seem to think I felt, for me, it was too soft and might not have held tension as well as others, but a good buy at that price, to be sure.
     
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  28. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    The first string job i had with this somebody else strung it in a full bed and i liked it until it broke kind of fast on me. When i found the head rip with the mantis crosses worked well for me, i thought i could go even cheaper because i knew the alpha was such a soft string and i never break crosses. With the head rip breaking after eight hours i wanted cheap and effective in the crosses. The two string jobs i did with it i had to be very careful with the drop weight because of the slipping or the stretching. I'm not sure which one it is anymore but its probably a little of both.

    With rip mains and alpha crosses that's a five or six dollar job. The way i break strings i can go cheap since i bought my own stringer. The tension maintenance seems fine. I played last night and i was knocking the crap out of the ball and i had good control. I mean, nothing hit the fence which is a plus.
     
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  29. ricardo

    ricardo Professional

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    Make sure the gripper is actually slipping before looking for solutions..

    If you feel/think that your gripper (not the clamps) is slipping, you have to be 100% certain that it is actually slipping. Marking the string is a foolproof way to find out. Here is how you do it:

    1. When you are ready to tension, mark the string with a marker as close to the gripper jaw as possible. Look at the mark and the gripper jaw. You have to remember how close they are.
    2. Slowly drop the dropweight
    3. You can feel/see the string stretching and moving backwards to the frame.
    4. Look at the mark/gripper jaw again. If the mark moved away (towards the racket) from the gripper jaw, then you can say with 100% certainty that the gripper is slipping.
    However, if the mark did not moved (it is still close to the gripper jaw), then the gripper is not slipping.

    Before looking for a solution, you have to first determine what is causing your problem.
     
    #29
  30. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    i guess i should have mentioned, next time i string i will try your suggestion to make sure this is the problem. I usually only string for myself, so that averages out to one a month or two tops. Of course if i could find a durable multi that really grips the ball the number stringing is even less. I don't think i'm experienced enough stringing yet to try cheap gut.
     
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  31. spacediver

    spacediver Hall of Fame

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    I'm just doing my first ever string job on my klipper, and am having a similar problem. The smaller jaw wouldn't lock against the larger jaw, but only some times.

    Just figured it out. The jaw system only locks tightly when the entire jaw is rotated away from the racquet. Thing is, it's close to impossible to put the string through the jaws when it's rotated in this position, so I find it helps to first have the jaws rotated towards the racquet, then I put in the string, then I rotate the jaws away from racquet, and then allow the tension rod to drop.

    Not sure if this is the cause of your problem, but thought I'd share.
     
    #31
  32. weksa

    weksa Rookie

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    There is a hole in the middle of the jaws that you can fit your pointer finger into. The following directions assume that you leave the tension rod in resting position (it points diagonally up+left):

    To open up the jaws to feed the string, with my left hand I stick in my finger and move it towards the right. With my right hand I feed the string in. Then I use my finger to move the jaws left to lock it, which isn't that tight actually. The Klippermate manual instructs that you use your left hand -- picture shows pointer+middle finger -- to press down on the string between the racquet and the jaws. This pressure locks the string jaws, and then you can start using the tension rod, at which point you can take your left hand off the string.
     
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  33. spacediver

    spacediver Hall of Fame

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    thanks that's very useful weksa. I've also learned to support the tension rod with my shoulder else it just rests on racquet or strings and I don't like that.

    My klippermate manual doesn't seem to have those instructions.

    btw I've just finished my mains and am starving. Is it ok to do the crosses later, or will this put undue stress on the racquet?
     
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  34. weksa

    weksa Rookie

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    You're making me concerned haha. I take it you didn't carefully read page 3 of your user manual, titled "Set-Up." You need to adjust the Rocker Bumper. For convenience, here's a snapshot of what I'm talking about. In this picture, on the other side of the rocker bumper, there's a wingnut that you can loosen. You can then set the rocker bumper to horizontal, and the tension rod should stand like shown.

    I took 4 hours to do my first string job on the Klippermate. My racquet turned out just fine.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2011
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  35. weksa

    weksa Rookie

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    For these directions, look at pages 7-8 for Method A, or pages 12-13 for Method B. KlipperUSA explicitly says that the jaws are supposed to automatically hold the string in its default position, but it doesn't seem to work that well. Their subsequent directions on tensioning mention to push down on the string that you are tensioning. What I do is push down on the string after I feed the string into the jaws & before I start tensioning, because the pressure helps the jaws stay shut tightly.
     
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  36. spacediver

    spacediver Hall of Fame

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    omg that makes life so much easier! I missed that detail! I think my rocker bumper might be damaged though. It protrudes out of the yellow metal base at an angle, kinda like it's bent, instead of straight out. As a result, the black part of the rocker bumper is farther away from the jaw rocker than it should be, meaning the tension rod has to sink deeper towards the racquet before it gets supported by the bumper. Luckily, if I reangle the bumper I can get it to function effectively, preventing the rod from touching the racquet (I get 3/4 inch clearance!)

    Looks like I have a different manual. I just looked at the version I downloaded online and it matches your description. My hardcopy version has no photographs, just diagrams. Your version has photographs.


    good to know :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2011
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  37. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    I think the klippermate is doing it's job, I think I just decided to use some slippery multi's. It never slipped on any other string jobs so it's me and my strings. Taking a long time to do a string job is no big deal as long as you do it right and if you don't you learn from your mistakes. I've done my racket twice and somebody else's twice, and I still refer to the manual for my own racket. Learning is fun. Proficiency comes later.
     
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  38. max

    max Hall of Fame

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    Good attitude! :)
     
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  39. Morgan

    Morgan Rookie

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    sure wish I visited this thread a rackets-stringings ago.:(
     
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  40. eelhc

    eelhc Hall of Fame

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    Too funny... you want to be absolutely spot on accurate and use a level... How are you accounting for the additional incremental weight the level + tape are adding?
     
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  41. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    It's actually been quite a while since I've posted anything and I was just reading a few things and saw the question. The level is one of those really small ones that weigh hardly nothing. Fastened with two thin strips of electrical tape wrapped around the end of the bar. It can't be throwing things off that much. But you got me curious, I have two of them(they come two to a pack). I'm going to bring the other to work and weigh it and let yall know.
     
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  42. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    I weighed it. It weighs 6 grams.
     
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  43. eelhc

    eelhc Hall of Fame

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    The effect on the tension will depend on how far out it is taped to the bar. If you are going through the trouble of using a level, might as well account for the weight too.

    Personally I don't think that absolute horizontal vs a few degrees up/down will not make any difference in the tension. With a drop weight, mucking with the tensioner will result in a inconsistent string bed. For example, if you nail the level on a pull on the first try then on the next pull have to muck with the gripper a bit to get it level. Each pull will be stretching the string a different amount. To me the level would more of a distraction.
     
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  44. RonSon

    RonSon New User

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    The level just makes it simpler. I just look over at the bubble. I've gotten pretty good at feeding the string thru the gripper since I only string my rackets and it's generally the same string. It'll never be exact but I'm only looking for consistency from one to the next. The level is at the extreme end of the bar.
     
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