Longest lasting Poly

Discussion in 'Strings' started by Fuji, Mar 26, 2011.

  1. Fuji

    Fuji Legend

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    Sorry if this has been asked before everyone! I did some searching but I don't even think I was putting in the right key words.

    Which poly in your experience lasts the longest before going dead, and if in any hybrid set up, what was it! :)

    I love my RPM blast, but it just went dead today and I was sort of displeased with how long it lasted. I just want a poly that lasts a while, I love having at least one frame done up with poly.

    Thanks everyone! Any links to such discussions would be greatly appreciated. I play with a lot of spin, and I'm a mildly hard hitter.

    -Fuji
     
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  2. BigT

    BigT Professional

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    10 hours of play or 2-3 weeks is the most you should expect.
     
    #2
  3. Fuji

    Fuji Legend

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    Haha darn! I might have to start playing without poly then. I can max out that time in about a day and a half! :(

    -Fuji
     
    #3
  4. J_aces

    J_aces Semi-Pro

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    Give genesis twisted razor a try. Long lasting for a poly with great spin
     
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  5. Icedorb217

    Icedorb217 Semi-Pro

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    honestly it all depends whether or not you feel it.
     
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  6. Fuji

    Fuji Legend

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    I really felt it with the RPM blast today. It just felt like garbage! I just want something that will stay near consistent for at least 3-4 weeks.

    -Fuji
     
    #6
  7. XFactorer

    XFactorer Hall of Fame

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    I agree with him.


    In my experience, Luxilon Big Banger ALU Power lasts longest for me.
     
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  8. Marcus

    Marcus Semi-Pro

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    I agree.....

    I'm fairly new to poly and experienced the phenomenon of poly going off
    Yesterday for the first time, spin lost and everything going long after about 6 hours, using lux savage my other frame strung with
    Alu still going strong after more than 12 hours of hitting !
     
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  9. Hominator

    Hominator Hall of Fame

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    Would going with a lower gauge help get more life out of a poly? Would that help the OP?
     
    #9
  10. Carolina Racquet

    Carolina Racquet Hall of Fame

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    Fuji... In my opinion you need to make a change.

    RPM is not a great VALUE because it's expensive and goes dead quickly. I find that Volkl Cyclone offers similar, but better playability benefits at half the cost. No brainer.

    Further, I firmly believes going to a hybrid will help extend the life of a poly. It will reduce notching and the more elastic characteristics of a syn gut or multi will keep a more lively feeling longer. I'm looking to go this direction in the future.
     
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  11. Capt. Willie

    Capt. Willie Professional

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    I think WC Silverstring. However, I do have trouble telling the drop off unless I have a freshly strung racquet to compare it to.
     
    #11
  12. Fuji

    Fuji Legend

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    Thanks a lot for the suggestions everyone! :)

    Would hybriding with a Gut help at all? I was thinking of putting either Wilson/Head/Babolat gut in the main with something like Lux BB ALU Power, or something along the lines of that in the crosses.

    Keep the posts coming, the suggestions are really helping! :)

    -Fuji
     
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  13. Bahama Scott

    Bahama Scott New User

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    I recently bought 2 new Babolat Aero 112's and strung them as follows:
    rac. #1 M: 61 lb. gut X: 58 lb. poly-Volkl V-Fuse 17
    rac. #2 M:61 lb. Bab VS Nat Gut 16 1/2 Set X: 58 Babo RPM Blast 17

    I've got about 20 hours of heavy use on each and after today I've settled on the Bab Nat gut and RPM. I really like it and it is holding up much better than the Volkl V-Fuse. Still getting great movement on the ball.

    I am wondering how the opposite setup (with the gut in the crosses and RPM in the mains) would perform regarding durability, spin and power and will probably cut out the Volkl and replace with this setup.
     
    #13
  14. nvottennis

    nvottennis Semi-Pro

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    I honestly would not suggest this string. Its not amazing and the tension maintenance is only average. Try other twisted copolys for better results
     
    #14
  15. retlod

    retlod Professional

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    No. The poly will die just as fast and you'll be left with $20 worth of gut that will hurt you more than it when you have to cut it out.

    If you don't mind orange string, try Signum Pro Poly Plasma. It lasts as long as any poly I've hit with.
     
    #15
  16. JT_2eighty

    JT_2eighty Hall of Fame

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    Signum Pro and Weiss Cannon are the best brands for tension maintenance.

    If you still want the textured RPM-like string: SP Tornado or WC Black5Edge are getting good reviews for tension hold.
     
    #16
  17. Fuji

    Fuji Legend

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    Thanks everyone! Which Weiss Cannon would you recommend?

    SPPP looks actually really good considering the price and if the tension maintenance is good! I don't care about the colour of my strings at all LOL! Next order I'll have to try it out, there have been rave reviews for it!

    -Fuji
     
    #17
  18. weksa

    weksa Rookie

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    From another thread, I'll quote pvaudio to help answer your question. pvaudio tailors his answer to a person's playing style.

    "B5E has more spin, control and durability/tension main. MB has more power, comfort, and feel. B5E is the Baseliner's string, Scorpion is the all-courter's string and MB is the S&V player's string."

    Of course there are still the other WC strings to talk about, noticeably Silverstring and Turbotwist. I haven't played with any WC, but I will some day...
     
    #18
  19. Fuji

    Fuji Legend

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    Thank you very much! :) That was some great information! Gosh, next order I'll be broke with all my new strings to try! :p

    -Fuji
     
    #19
  20. kiteboard

    kiteboard Hall of Fame

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    Depends on how you string, if it lasts long tens. wise or not, and what you play with

    A couple of decisions are nec. Are you a pusher/power hitter/serve volleyer/all courter/no pace/counter puncher/precision type lull hitter/old school/modern wiper forehand/two hander bh/attacker/grinder/patient/impatient type?



    Do you like crisp/soft/spin/power/control/durability/cost/feel/touch/mushy/poly/copoly/gut/syn gut/kevlar/hybrids or full sets?

    Do you like light frames, med/heavy/extreme sticks?

    Do you like high/low/med/ extreme tensions?

    Do you like soft/stiff/med. frames?

    Do you string for control and lust for power? Do you string for spin and lust for control? Do you string for cost and lust for feel?

    What was the best string job/frame/tens. you ever had for control? For power? For spin? Were they match tested?

    Answer all those questions, and only then will you be able to get the best string job.

    Lead placed at 3 and 9 compress the sweet spot, as the mass on the frame there, adds weight to the string across that plane, like a dumbell with wts. on the ends, polarizes those strings. Take the wts off the dumbell, and the bar is not polarized with end wts. anymore. Lead at 12 elongates the sweet spot towards the end of the hoop, and makes it skinnier than at 3 and 9, for those who hit towards the end of the hoop.

    VAriations on the normal string job are: looser top five crosses to enlarge the sweet spot: proportional stringing: pinging out the mains to obtain the same tension/tone for each string to even out the bed.

    Jaycee method: deals with tension loss for hard hitters.

    "The method I use for two-piece jobs, which on the board we call JC's method, is to increase the tension in the crosses by 4lbs compared to the mains. In addition, pull the outer two mains at +8lbs, and then push down on them firmly from the outside mains to the inside mains to equalize the tension after tying off. You do the same for the crosses. The logic of this method is not based on string constructions, but rather the fact that the crosses always have a lower tension than the mains, so it is equally applicable to a two piece job with one kind of string. Then the last three crosses, up another 4lbs."


    Serious article on pro strings/frames/tens/time on string job/type of string, etc.
    http://www.protennis.us/US Open ...20Analysis.pdf stringing by pros


    Here is an article on how to string polys, and other strings, for best effect: http://ggtennis.wordpress.com/

    "Power is actually barely changed whether strung at 60, 45 or 30 pounds. What changes is "Ball trajectory", meaning a lower strung racquet will have the ball rebound off your racquet at a higher angle, more likely to go long (hence why people have always considered it "more power").

    So, the point that this article draws upon is that POLY strings, being as stiff as they are, when strung at lower tensions like 45, do not result in the same "trajectory change" that softer synthetic gut, nat gut, and/or multifilament strings would experience at the same low tensions."

    Gut gives the most power, the most control, but it's a fine line on the trajectory angle with gut. By loosening the crosses, lower than the mains, you increase the angle, giving the impression of more power/depth. It's softer and more elastic, smaller stiffness rating, easier on the arm/shoulder, more expensive, less durable. Too loose and it goes long. Holds tension best. Too tight and you lose the advantages over poly. Why does gut give more control than poly if its angle off the bed is higher due to softer more elastic fibers? Does the ball stay on the bed longer? Do fractions of miliseconds really mean that much more feel/control? ONly if the stiffnes of the frame/mass of the frame, tension it's strung at complement your style! And budget.

    Many top pros use vs gut hybrids, to get the best of both worlds out of poly/gut. (Joker, Fed, Murray, Roddick, etc.) Many uber hitters use full alu power (only comes in 1.25mm) at 60lbs, but it's like formula one race car tires, only good for a short time, before the trajectory angle changes, due to migration of the sweet spot/knot tension loss/towards the mains, and loss of stiffness due to hard hitting, the angle changes too rapidly for high level players. People who don't hit hard don't need the power and control of gut. People who do hit hard, break strings too often to be able to afford it. 18 x 20 patterns don't break the string as often as 16 x 20, or 16 x 19. Due to the more open string pattern, the string saws more, back and forth, due to less friction on the crosses. Same reason why open patterns give more spin/more snap back grabbing, due to greater sawing motion. They also give a higher trajectory angle off the bed. (Woodford played with a 12 x 16, at 90lbs, with 1.80mm orig. lux. string, which gave him vicious kick serve spin....) Rafa plays with apd orig., 9g at 12, at 54/52lbs. Fed plays with vs team (wilson prem.)/alu rough at 48.5/45.2lbs. It's a 90 in. frame vs. a 100 in. frame. Is it really ten percent difference in the bed, off the frame size? (53/50) Rafa plays at 336g, and Fed at about 357g. BAlance pts. and swing wts. are different. Djokovic: vs team mains at 60.5 alu smooth at 58.2lbs. He puts lead from the fourth cross down, to the bottom cross of the frame, four pieces on the inside edges next to the strings, larger frame, open pattern, special lay up for flexy feel. Three very different approaches to the perfect string job and frame. Why are they so different, yet, provide each with control and power and consistency? Fits their preferred game feel.

    But it's pretty clear, that the vs team/alu combo, and the alu full set, are dominant among the top pros in the game. The trajectory angle of the vs team/alu combos depends on which is used as main and which as cross. The gut, due to its softer stiffness/higher elasticity, has a higher angle, and therefore, more perceived power and depth. Vice versa, when alu is used as main or poly as main, the angle is lower, due to its stiffer rating, than the gut, at the same tens/frame set up. That's why the flat uber hitters prefer the alu: lower net clearance than gut/poly combos. Lower net clearance is what uber hitters crave and need, for a flatter trajectory angle and more court penetration, yet not as deep a shot as gut as it falls shorter with less depth. All of this is effected by the frame and tension as well. Do softer frames result in lower trajectory angles and shorter shots? Is that why the uber hitters prefer softer frames? Look at what happened to Tsonga, and Joker, and Raonic when they switched from the kblade (or pj) to other frames. Their net games fell off. Their control fell off. Kblade was stiffer than the frames and had more weight. Tsonga to babolat, and now look at his volley. It's not a volleyers frame, due to the open pattern, tinny feel. Anyone remember him putting away 13 drop volleys against Rafa in the Aussie? That was a kblade moment. Now his volley sucks, and his serve does not have as much pop. Tsonga, go back to the kblade (Kobra,pj, etc.) vs team/alu hybrid.
     
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  21. Fuji

    Fuji Legend

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    Thanks a lot Kiteboard! :) To answer some of your questions...

    I play an all court game with an emphasis on net play. I play a ton of doubles so some touch is needed. Singles however I do stay back a bit more, and my backhand really hits hard.

    My back hand is my better shot, very smooth and classical, see Fed/Gasquet. My Forehand is a semi-western mixed with eastern. Not a HUGE wiper motion, but it's still there to add some consistency to it.

    My string experience is sort of limited, but I LOVE really soft feeling strings. I'm a big fan of borderline mushy feeling, but I need something that is quite durable, and cost effective. (See RPM blast dying and feeling awful after less then a few sessions.) I do play with plenty of slice. As for string types, I have no preference yet with my lack of experience with different types.

    I play with stupidly heavy sticks for my main ones. They range from 12.5oz to around 13.6oz, quite small head sizes as well. 88-95 sq inches.

    I like medium stiffness frames, 64-70.

    I string for control mostly as my techniques have the ability to have a lot of power. I don't really need any extra power, but extra power is always nice. I would like a bit of a boost in spin though.

    As for tensions, I stick below 55 always. Right now in my 88 I'm at 45, but I have no questions at all about trying lower.

    The best string job I ever played was some strange gut I bought my used PSC 6.1 with. The guy was a teaching pro and open level player. The strings were already really worn when I bought them, but it felt great. It was really soft with gut in the mains and crosses. Just overall really comfy. The next best thing I've tried so far was a full bed of Head RIP Control 16, because it was pretty durable and cost effective. It lasted me around 2 months which was nice. The control was good, and same with the power. Spin production was better then average, but not near that of a poly such as RPM.

    I would have no problem going to gut, but it is so darn expensive. (At least 55 bucks with shipping plus a $20 stringing charge here.)

    Any advice is welcome! :)

    -Fuji

    EDIT: By the way, once hardcourt season rolls around in May until October, I can range playing from about 8 to 16 hours a week. So I can't really afford to be restringing every week! :(
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2011
    #21

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