Maybe getting a Eagnas...

Discussion in 'Stringing Techniques / Stringing Machines' started by TheLambsheadrep, Feb 7, 2013.

  1. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    Someone is selling what I believe to be a Eagnas Hawk 80 (www.flickr.com/photos/38221599@N05/8453642216/ ) for a moving "everything must go" sale for $100. I have searched all over these forums for info on the machine and found the same couple of people over an over that thought it was great for being a cheap table top and the same people over and over that thought the base clamps stunk and wouldn't go near one again. Anyone that wants to give an opinion now can do so, but I just want to know if the scenario is a good deal.

    The guy has had it for 5-6 years and would only string for himself. I can't imagine it was used recently based off the dusty appearance. Pretty much all I know right now is that he doesn't have the manual. I don't know how many original tools/parts are still included, if he's had any problems with it before, if anything is broken, etc. Hopefully he is going to call me later today since he is moving soon and I'd like to find out if it's worth it based off of what he tells me.

    So if I hear from him that everything that was original is included, he's never had a problem with it, and everything is proper working condition, is $100 a good price for this machine?

    Btw, this would be my first stringing machine (I have very little experience but am excited to learn!), and after having a stringer recently do a pretty bad job I am looking for something with more than 2 clamp points (though my friend from home uses a 2 point and they have always come out great, so I know the outcome is as depended on the stringer as it is the machine). I am not planning on buying new since new + 4or6 point = out of the budget, and I am more than content on waiting until the perfect opportunity comes around. I do plan on asking my friend from home which machine he uses and may be open to a reliable, NON DAMAGING 2 point, but that is not the opportunity in front of me right now.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2013
    #1
  2. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    Dusty appearance? Looks to me to have been used a lot. Not sure but is that a crack in the upper left just outside the rail? And a big chip out of it in the center of the lower rail? May have been dropped off the table. The seller may have only used it to string his rackets but I think the little old lady from Pasedina drug it around with her.
     
    #2
  3. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    Didn't notice that, thanks for pointing it out. I will ask what they are and how they got there for sure. I can't imagine that, if it was dropped, everything will work as it should...
     
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  4. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    This may also be important - I would mainly string kevlar/syn gut hybrids. Does this make any difference?
     
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  5. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

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    $100 for that machine is practically a steal. You can't get a Klippermate for that price. Also this is a Taiwan made machine. Much better quality than the later China made machines.

    That crack looks more like a scratch. I had a Hawk 800 before and the base is soild sheet of steel.
     
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  6. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    Cool. I heard the 800 is the same as the 80 outside of the 800 being an upright machine. I only plan on stringing my own racquets until I am confident enough to branch out to other people, but I am so protective of my racquets I don't even know which one I would use as the first guinea pig :-? . Sounds like you are recommending that I buy it, so that's noted. Would you see problems with it stringing kevlar?
     
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  7. Woolybugger

    Woolybugger Rookie

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    If you are really concerned, get a stringer buddy to go with you and test-string a couple of mains on it.
     
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  8. Lakers4Life

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    The Hawk 800 I owned, had cheap clamps, at least this machine has the PN-1012 clamps, which alone are worth the machine. I don't think you will have a problem with kevlar.
     
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  9. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    No it doesnt except for the distance the weight falls when string syn gut as compared to Kevlar but you will get used to that.
     
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  10. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    Would love to, but these people move in 48 hours and I don't know when I will even be getting there haha. Still waiting to here from the owner so I can get those questions answered...
     
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  11. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    Before I ask anyone to go into detail over that, I will see if I can find a video or something on stringing kevlar.

    I've been so back and forth on this machine since yesterday, for me it's always about protecting the racquets haha. My biggest fear is any kind of permanent distortion/damage occurring since I don't know how reliable it is yet, but I know that can happen on any machine.
     
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  12. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

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    It's Hold-down mount, with four side supports. Not a very fast mounting system like the floating 6 points, but it works fine. Just make sure that scatch is not a crack.
     
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  13. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    That machine will be fine.

    I might move the knob on the weight off of the guage sticker.
    I'm assuming that would still work, that bolt has got to ttear it up I'd think.
     
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  14. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    I'm looking more for efficiency/doing it safely than speed, so I'm fine with that :)

    Is a crack a deal breaker even though it's on the bottom rail?
     
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  15. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    Can you elaborate please?
     
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  16. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    Usually the scale is some sort of sticker. It will get torn up having that screw knob cranked down it repeatedly.

    Move the knob around the rod, so as to avoid the sticker. BUT it appears the sticker is on a flat spot on the bar? That would also be the ideal spot for the knob screw. Oh well...


    Maybe someone can confirm.

    I had an old dropweight many years ago (mid 80's and it was used) and can't recall if it was a sticker or etched into the bar. Seems like it was a sticker...
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2013
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  17. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    OK, I see what you're saying now. It is hard to tell if the numbers are on a sticker or engraved into the rod, imo they looked engraved. I will check and if it's a sticker I will do what I can to avoid damage occurring to it
     
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  18. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

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    If the base is cracked, then it is a $100 machine, just for the parts. You can probably get it welded, in the worst case. Those bases are pretty thick and I doubt it's cracked.
     
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  19. mmk

    mmk Professional

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    Hawk 800, besides being upright, is a crank machine, not dropweight. But, the same mounting system. I've got an 800 with the older clamps, those in the picture are much nicer. If everything is okay, that is a really good deal.
     
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  20. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    Well, I prob wouldn't buy it for $100 just to sell parts to make $100 back haha. I'm assuming you mean that even if it is cracked it is still fully operational (and safe for the racquets. And myself while we're at it, I do care for my own safety haha) but the value is now more in line with $100
     
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  21. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

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    Parted out it's worth at least $200. I've bought a Flex 740 before with missing clamps and side supports, for $70. It would of cost me $150 to get all the parts, but I ended up parting it out for way more that if I had gotten it fully working.

    The clamps alone are worth $80 for the pair, the mounting tower are another $80, the base clamps $40, $20 for the gripper, $20 for the cluch hub, and the drop weight bar and weight are another $40. That's $180 in profit. For a machine that is worth at best $200.
     
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  22. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    allrighty then haha
     
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  23. mmk

    mmk Professional

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    Exactly, I just had to order the clamps from Eagnas for $110 shipped. $100 for the machine is a bargain.
     
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  24. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    i doubt it is cracked. heck, that might a cobweb strung across the table. maybe a scratch, but i'd think he'd have said such when he mentioned "perfect working order".
     
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  25. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    L4L,

    Do those PN-1012 clamps fit your gamma bases properly?
     
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  26. Lakers4Life

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    Yes the work fine.
     
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  27. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    I meant that "perfect working order" is an answer I am looking for him to say when I ask him about how it functions. I have not had the chances to talk to him yet
     
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  28. Woolybugger

    Woolybugger Rookie

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    go ahead and buy it. if it doesn't work, throw it through his window. :)
     
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  29. Rumruner

    Rumruner New User

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    Someone is selling what I believe to be a Eagnas Hawk 80

    You may be happy the day you buy it but much happier the day you get rid of it. Skip this part of your stringing life and go to the next level.
     
    #29
  30. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

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    This is what I tell all new stringers... some people end up happy enough with their low end machines, though. Many others are back within a few months harping on technique to people with a decade+ experience on them. It's entertaining at times ;)

    OP: It's fine for a starter machine, I wouldn't expect it to last you your whole stringing career if you want a new hobby. You will almost certainly upgrade unless you hate stringing ;)

    I should also note those clamp bases/turn table are pretty bad. They will probably slip a lot on you. If you buy it just to learn for a while, it's not even a bad investment THEN! I would consider this a stopgap machine, though.
     
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  31. 1HandedBackhand

    1HandedBackhand New User

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    I think its a good deal! If its cracked have it welded. Machine similar to this run about 350 to 450 dollars.
     
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  32. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    I picked it up last night - not a crack or chip, just a cob web and dust haha. I forgot to ask him if he's ever had a problem with it, but he didn't say that he had, Im still going to email him again. The scale is a sticker and some of it is coming off, but I'll be able to make it work and will prob try to fix it somehow.

    It came with all the original parts including parts for stringing badminton (and maybe racquetball) racquets. He also threw in a set of gosen polybreak 18g string he had left over. For the finale, he sold it to me for $80. I definitely think it was worth the trip, and my girlfriend got 2 lamps for $60 and they said they were originally $260, which is crazy but if I was getting something she was, too haha.

    I'll give more info later
     
    #32
  33. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

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    Honestly, don't worry about it too much. Start watching YULitle videos for a "quick start" guide, and then string some racquets. You'll quickly find where the machine is or is not deficient. You most likely won't see any issues until you work on higher end machines, anyways. Think: "Oh, my clamps aren't supposed to slide that amount when they're "locked down"?" It's not a big deal, starting machines are A-OK. If nothing else, you'll actually get a better feel for how to deal with machine related issues than someone who starts on a Star 5 ;)
     
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  34. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    I fully agree with DD that starting on a "lower end" (although perfectly adequate) machine may more quickly teach you more of the ins and outs, subtleties, physics etc of the craft than someone who starts on a star 5, etc.

    And that's not to say there's anything wrong with NEVER having used a table top DW. But, IMO there is more thinking involved in many aspects using said DW.
     
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  35. Lakers4Life

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    That's a great starter machine. Post some pics after you get it cleaned up.
     
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  36. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    I haven't thoroughly cleaned it just yet since I don't know what is safe/not safe to use on the finish and the various parts, but I do have two pictures to show you guys something. After watching the intro videos on stringing I wanted to try to mount a frame to see how it would go and how snug it gets. The first racquet I grabbed was a Donnay X-Dual Pro, and after getting it on fine, I noticed a few things. Here are the pictures www.flickr.com/photos/38221599@N05/8462601463/

    First, there is no cushion between the metal post and the frame. Especially for the XDP with the matte paint finish, I can see this leading to a lot of scrape marks. If you look at the pictures, you can see that I took a 1"x1" band aid and wrapped it around each post so the small piece of gauze gives some kind of barrier. I don't know how long it will stay, but I'm hoping it helps (and at the very least does not cause any new problems).

    Second, you can see from both pictures that the post seems to cover a lot of space where the string passes through the grommet. The XDP is a 18x20 and I only have one other right now (Head Pro Tour). I put a 18x19 that is already strung and it looked like it would be fine, but does there appear to be enough room to string the middle mains of a 18x20? Common sense says there is since it makes no sense for them to make it so there wouldn't be, but if anyone has had trouble stringing a 18x20 in general or with the Hawk 80 specifically, please let me know.

    Also, if anyone has cleaning tips for stringing machines in general or with the Hawk 80 specifically, please let me know so I can post respectable pictures and get my first racquet done!
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2013
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  37. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

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    I would use a damp microfibre towel first. Then if you have any greasy spots, rubbing alcohol. The posts don't touch the frame because of the spacer pad.

    Here are your pics:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    #37
  38. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    The grommets on the XDP aren't very long without string tension pulling them through, so if the frame wasn't touching the post it was very very close and then the friction I was feeling was from the post touching the grommets. Did you ever string a 18x20 and have problems with the middle mains (or any area at that)?

    Thanks for posting my pics, I have tried to do it before on other threads following the "how to" posts but still could never get them on. Either way
     
    #38
  39. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    With water, but with/without soap or other cleaner?
     
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  40. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    alcohol works great.

    also, WD-40 is a great cleaner too, fwiw.
     
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  41. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

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    Just water, get most of the grime and dust off first. I say damp, because you don't want the water to stay long.
     
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  42. TheLambsheadrep

    TheLambsheadrep Professional

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    I've seen other machines that have icons for which side of the machine the head of the racquet and the throat of the racquet should be mounted on. Are there any icons/indicators for the Hawk 80 I'm not seeing, does it matter for this machine?
     
    #42
  43. struggle

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    no, it doesn't. heck, my 6004 doesn't either BUT i marked my head and throat ends with a sharpie. only reason i did that was so i could turn the SC mounting knobs the same direction each time i mount and dismount the frame.
     
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  44. Lakers4Life

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    Really? Most of the previous 6004s had a diagram of the head and throat. Though it does not really matter. I know for sure the 5003 don't except the 2-point model SC models.
     
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  45. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    well, both ends are symmetrical and it's SC. i've never noticed an icon and don't see why there would be one.

    post a pic of your icons and where i should look, i'm not seeing it, nor am i seeing a reason why they might even exist.

    thx.
     
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  46. Lakers4Life

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    I found these on Photostringer, but it's exactly the same on my machine.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    This is the 6-point SC 6004
    [​IMG]
     
    #46
  47. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

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    I don't actually see the POINT of it either, but the 2 point mount on my 5800 ELS has the markings, too. I am pretty sure the mounts are symmetrical about the center of the turn table, the only reason I can imagine is that often times the throat of the frame is thinner than the tip of the frame, so the adjustable mounting posts (white) need to be adjusted less frequently if you've got one side always at one end (and don't have to look for it). Otherwise... :confused::confused:

    I should note that it'd be really nice if we could offset the mounting stocks, I like mounting my frames slightly lower (with the frame offset towards the handle side a little bit). I find that this is much easier on the Prince O3 frames.
     
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  48. Lakers4Life

    Lakers4Life Hall of Fame

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    You make a good point. I have a strip of leather grip on the throat side, for thinner beam rackets. On the 6-point mounts, you can off set the racket from center with the billards.
     
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  49. struggle

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    my 6004 has nothing like that (just bought it last summer). they are identical, no markings. makes sense to me.
     
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  50. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

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    Yeah, I'm aware, at least for the lower end models. I haven't worked with the higher end 6pt models. I also use leather strips for thin throats, I use belt leather, though. Sometimes I have to stack them. I feel very uncomfortable with the way Gamma suggests stringing the ultra-thin throat frames like the APD (according to their manual).
     
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