<<< My Custom Paint Job >>>

Discussion in 'Racquets' started by Maestro Nalbandian, Jun 30, 2008.

  1. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    My first try at a custom paint job. Thanks to the sticky: http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=172828 Very helpful and very well written instructions. What's lacking was step by step pictorial illustrations and that is what I'm hoping to contribute with the thread.

    I will update and add photos as I progress through the stages.

    (UPDATE: see post #107 for pictures of the finished product)

    The donor. As you can see it's pretty much beat-up. Perfect for a first timer to trial and error.

    [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Aug 10, 2008
    #1
  2. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    All the supplies you need for the project.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Paint stripper.
    Paint stripper wash (for cleaning before the primer)
    Paint brush.
    Steel wool.
    Sand papers of various grites.
    Sugarsoap.
     
    #2
  3. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    Masking the bare handle (or with grip)
    [​IMG]

    High gloss and extra tough automotive spray paint. Metallic red will be the main color.
    [​IMG]

    After apply the paint stripper with a brush, I let it work on the paint for 8 hours. (I found the longer you leave it the better/easier the paint will come off ). Then use steel wool to scrape off the paint. It all came off quite easily so I didn't need to reapply the second time. The key is to be patient and let the remover work on the paint.

    [​IMG]
     
    #3
  4. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    #4
  5. Love2AceYou

    Love2AceYou New User

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    keep us posted, i'm going to do this with an older ncode of mine that i've beat up pretty well. excited for your outcome/final product!!
     
    #5
  6. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    Thanks. The primer is done. Looking good so far. I will upload some more pics later on.
     
    #6
  7. D. Dokas

    D. Dokas Rookie

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    cant wait to see the final product nice job so far
     
    #7
  8. armsty

    armsty Hall of Fame

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    Definately going to do this to my old stick, making it orange and blue for sure.
     
    #8
  9. Loco4Tennis

    Loco4Tennis Hall of Fame

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    good luck with it, please dont do what i did, i forgot to take pictrure sof every step :) i latter tought to myself, man i should have taken a picture of that :)
    anyways keep it up, looks good thus far, i am really interested in seeing the car spray paint go on and what you think about it afterwards, my spray paint was too soft, the stuff your using should give you a better result
     
    #9
  10. Mansewerz

    Mansewerz Legend

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    Wow, this is exactly what I wanted in the original thread. Nice! Keep em coming. Can we see pics from others as well?
     
    #10
  11. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    Thanks for the support guys. I will upload some pics of the "primed" stage when I get home.

    Loco4Tennis, thats exactly the reason I choose automotive spray paint, they usually have better heat resistance and drys harder.
     
    #11
  12. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    Here they are :D

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    #12
  13. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    #13
  14. m1stuhxsp4rk5

    m1stuhxsp4rk5 Professional

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    looking pretty good keep up the good work
     
    #14
  15. blackfrido

    blackfrido Hall of Fame

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    terrific job, congratulations!
     
    #15
  16. RM05

    RM05 Rookie

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    hm...

    i hope there is some primer painted underneath that silver. its not too important but the base paint will usually adhere and protect the stick better with a primer.

    i used some reddish primer for my project (pog mid) to give it that st. vincent-like quality. heh theres also gray auto primer. which ever one you want to use is fine.

    As for the base coat...those will do fine. you can actually buy real number-coded auto paint from a place called paintscratch dot com. just look for the brand, year, model make (honda s2000 :D), and it'll give you the list of the exact colors for that car. For a 12oz can goes for $25 (expensive...I know). they also sell clearcoat for around 12 bucks.

    Don't forget to sand (1000 grit) any rough parts on the base coat and reapply the base paint. You get the rough patches from spraying a little too far back. Let it dry.

    For the clearcoat,you want to keep the stick clean. Have the can close the the racquet and not to far back (it'll get rough). Apply your first coat and wait a minute or two. Then coat again. It might get a little murky but it'll dry clear. Let it dry for a week before you fit your grommets in.

    I've painted my old road bike and an old Prostaff Hyper Carbon Tour 95 and it worked out well.

    O yeah...and for people who have kevlar braided racquets...do not sand your racquet all the way. Just rough up the paint or use paint stripper. Don't wanna mess with the fibers or whatever. Thats is what I've head for carbon fiber bike frames...so i'm guessing it might apply to tennis racquets as well. I dunno. :D
     
    #16
  17. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    Actually, the silver IS the primer if you read all previous posts. The rest all good advice:)
     
    #17
  18. blackfrido

    blackfrido Hall of Fame

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    Maestro, the primer was applied with brush?
     
    #18
  19. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    blackfrido, the primer was spray-on. See post 3, its the silver can.
     
    #19
  20. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    Do you have any pictures of the painted POG mid and Prostaff Tour 95? Would love see them.
     
    #20
  21. Mansewerz

    Mansewerz Legend

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    More pics? Any of finished project?
     
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  22. Double Fault

    Double Fault Semi-Pro

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    Wow. Amazing.

    Please post more pictures!
     
    #22
  23. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    The first coat is done but not finished yet. I'm waiting for it to dry in order to apply the second coat (then clear coat). Says on the spray can - apply all coats within an hour or wait 7 days for additional coats. I didn't want to risk it by put on too many coats all in one go, so I chose the 7 days option (2 more days now). Can't be too careful with this sort of thing.
     
    #23
  24. Mansewerz

    Mansewerz Legend

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    Nice, I can't wait to see the rest.
     
    #24
  25. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    Here is a pic of what the paint looks like currently. I think it's pretty much ready (6 days now) for the second coat and just maybe two light coats should be enough. What do you think?
    [​IMG]
     
    #25
  26. Loco4Tennis

    Loco4Tennis Hall of Fame

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    mann, this thing is gonna bling in the sunlight
    paint looks good
    whats it feel like thus far, the paint i mean, soft or hard??
    hard of course is what we're expecting anxiously
     
    #26
  27. alfa164164

    alfa164164 Professional

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    Re: the string holes

    Do you need to "plug" the string holes up during any of the process to prevent either primer, paint, or clear coat to get in there or do you just leave them open?
    If they do need to be blocked up, what's the best way of doing that?
    Looks great by the way.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2008
    #27
  28. Moses Man

    Moses Man Rookie

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    wow... that looks simply amazing! Kudos!
     
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  29. Mansewerz

    Mansewerz Legend

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    Good question, i'd also like to know.
     
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  30. m1stuhxsp4rk5

    m1stuhxsp4rk5 Professional

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    that color is real nice makes me want to pj my racket
     
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  31. diredesire

    diredesire Super Moderator

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    No, you don't need to block them. They stay open, and any increased thickness from the paint will typically be negligible.
     
    #31
  32. Gottabekin

    Gottabekin New User

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    oh come do mine!!
     
    #32
  33. Double Fault

    Double Fault Semi-Pro

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    I rally want to try it and add some custom text on it.

    How are you planning on adding the text?
     
    #33
  34. adams_1

    adams_1 Semi-Pro

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    Mate, that looks incredible!
     
    #34
  35. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    Thanks for all compliments.

    The paint feels hard already. I'm thinking whether to give it a light sanding before the second coat or is't unnecessary?

    No need to plug them, like diredesire said, paint that end up in the string holes will typically be negligible.

    Not going to do custom text since its my first pj and don't want to mess up anything playing with masking tapes on fresh paint. Besides, I think an one off color would actually look simple and cool since it is a custom job afterall.

    P.S. When it's all done, it'll have black grommets, black strings and a black grip. Would offset the red nicely IMO.:)
     
    #35
  36. Loco4Tennis

    Loco4Tennis Hall of Fame

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    when i was doing mine, and again i am not an expert on this, i did not see the benefit of sanding, the paint was fairly even, no notisable bumps and/or over sprayed sections were visible, so i did not feel it needed sanding, but also when i tried to sand this one section that was a little ifffy, i ended up pealing the paint, but again i was using to high of grade on sand paper and my paint was too soft, it never dried fully to the racquet frame (wrong paint)
    in your case, if you feel that the paint is fairly hard and crisp, and you need to even out paint sections, or take off a little paint, do it, but again use as soft a sand paper as possibe to start and gradually go from there if more is needed
    paint wise, try not to put too many coats also, weight is an issue with this as well
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2008
    #36
  37. obnoxious2

    obnoxious2 Semi-Pro

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    Can you powdercoat a racquet to give it a complete and even balance paintjob? Or its not possible to give a racquet a negative charge?
     
    #37
  38. flash9

    flash9 Semi-Pro

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    Paint Stripper Wash

    Did you use both the Paint Stripper and the Paint Stripper Wash? :confused:

    I never did see where you mentioned using the Paint Stripper Wash? :-?

    PS: It really looks nice - Still waiting for the completely finished pictures. :)
     
    #38
  39. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    Basicly you use the paint stripper wash after finish stripping (and sanding) and before applying the primer. It'll get rid of any paint stripper residuals, paint debris, dusts etc. Sugar soap does the same job so you don't necessarily need to get the stripper wash.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2008
    #39
  40. Safin777

    Safin777 New User

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    Sorry but I didn't understand do you sanded down the racquet or used only the paint stripper?
     
    #40
  41. esm

    esm Semi-Pro

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    nice work. the colour looks great - almost like the candy red. you wouldnt have achieved that with the normal grey primier. it'd be much brighter if you have used a lighter/more sparkle silver primier.

    to get a cleaner/flat final surface, i'd recommend to wet sand the clear coat with ultra fine grit wet sand paper then "flow coat" it until you are happy with the final coat.
     
    #41
  42. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    Ok, the way I did it, apply paint stripper first --> leave it on the racquet for a few hours --> use steel wool to scrape off the paint --> then sand down the racquet to get an even surface --> apply paint stripper wash or sugar soap for cleaning.
     
    #42
  43. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    Thanks. How do you do "flow coat" exactly?
     
    #43
  44. esm

    esm Semi-Pro

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    flow coating can be done by wet sanding the last dry clear coat (lightly, until there are no shiny bits), the spary the whole racquet with the clear coat again, with even spray. repeat the process again if you dont think your last effort gives you the flattest and shiniest surface.
     
    #44
  45. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    Thanks for that. Another question do you recommend sanding before the first clear coat? If so, what grit sand paper and dry or wet?
     
    #45
  46. Maestro Nalbandian

    Maestro Nalbandian Professional

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    I just realised that I forgot to weigh the racquet with the original paint on. Now I wouldn't be able to compare the weight before and after:(. Not overly important but would be nice to know.
     
    #46
  47. Loco4Tennis

    Loco4Tennis Hall of Fame

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    we are mere mortals on this thread :-D
    we are stuck with paint-brush paint, spray can paint, some are lucky to use air bushing tools, you would be one of the only one i've come across that would try this method, if at all possible,
    i saw a similar method to the one you descrive on a show "how stuff is made", but they were painting metal objects; maybe it was something else, i cant remember quite right, in either case, it would be nice to see someone try it
    i dont know how graphite fibers, or what ever tnateriual your racquet is made out off would apply to this method, if you try it, let us know
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2008
    #47
  48. Loco4Tennis

    Loco4Tennis Hall of Fame

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    haa, now you know how i felt when i went gunhoo on my pj and midway through i was like, damm it, i forgot to do this and that :)
    ohh well

    tell you what though
    my first pj, i did not sand, racquet was heavy afterwards
    my second pj, i sanded, and the rcaquet feels good weight wise

    i say this because since you sanded, regardless of what the weight was on your racquet it should feel pretty good afterwards, not too different that you should notise
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2008
    #48
  49. DLtoken

    DLtoken New User

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    ....Really good stuff.
     
    #49
  50. alfa164164

    alfa164164 Professional

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    Any final / updated pics?
     
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