My Eagnas Plus 6500

Discussion in 'Stringing Techniques / Stringing Machines' started by gflyer, Jun 15, 2010.

  1. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    Today I finally received my new Eagnas Plus 6500.
    This is my first "serious" stringing machine. I've been stringing on a klippermate for almost 2 years where learned the basic skills of the stringing procedure.

    Before posting few pictures I want to share my experience with Eagnas/Maxline in purchasing this machine.
    Originally I had ordered (via web) a Combo 910. The day after placing my order Maxline sent me a kind email where they told me that the Combo 910 was backordered.
    After consulting and asking advise on this forum (thank you Lakers4Life and tbuggle!!!) I decided to buy the Plus 9500 instead.
    I called Maxline (it was 4pm on a friday) and I got Victor on the phone. I was a little concerned on what to expect because of the bad reviews I've read on this board. I explained my problem and he was very kind and accommodating. He told me he was doing his best to ship the same day.
    After 20-30 minutes he calls me back because (my mistake) there was a problem with my cc billing address. Problem fixed.
    After ~1 hour I got an email with shipping info (UPS).
    I think that is a pretty good service if you ask me.
    Overall the communication both via email and with Victor over the phone was very easy and kind. I really cannot complain about anything.

    Boxes arrived today in great shape. No damage. Packaging was great.
    I assembled the machine in ~40-45 minutes.
    All the parts seem to be in order. The machine looks really sturdy and well built.
    I cannot comment on the functionality because I have to learn how to use it.
    Being new to this kind of machine I am sure I will have questions and doubts in the future... I am sure you guys will help me to figure things out. :)

    Cheers,
    g
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #1
  2. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    #2
  3. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    let me know if you guys want detailed pictures of specific parts.
    cheers,
    g
     
    #3
  4. jim e

    jim e Hall of Fame

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    Looks like a very nice machine!!
    Congradulations on your purchase.
    Should be a big difference after using a klippermate for so long.
    Looks like a nice turntable, suspension mounting, should be a snap to mount the racquet, and with this type of 6 point mount you will see that there are really no blocked holes.
    Again congradulations!! and happy stringing!
     
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  5. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    ^^^ thank you. :)
     
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  6. Lakers4Life

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    Great Pics! I hope you enjoy the machine.
     
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  7. sstchur

    sstchur Hall of Fame

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    Definitely would be interested to hear your experiences once you get going with it.

    I purchased a Mutual Power Titan 7700 a while back, and (as several member of the forums here know) have a bit of buyer's remorse with it, because it lacks switch-action clamp bases, and 3-tooth clamps. Also, I found mounting to be a little bit slow.

    I actually considered getting an Eagnas Plus IN ADDITION, and then trying to sell off whichever I didn't like more.

    In the end, I decided to just keep my machine and "learn to like it."

    But I would be very interested to hear how you like the mounting system (mine sometimes does block holes) and how you like the clamps (mine are 5-tooth and sometimes move the mains more than I'd like), and just how you like the machine generally speaking.

    Looking forward to hearing more about your machine.
     
    #7
  8. David123

    David123 Hall of Fame

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    congratulations on your purchase! hope you enjoy it!
     
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  9. Rex

    Rex Rookie

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    congrats on the new machine. happy stringing!
     
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  10. alcheng

    alcheng Rookie

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    Congratulation!!! The 6pt mount really looks good, and it's much more efficient and easy to use than Combo 910.

    I will suggest you check two things before you start your first string job:

    1) The clamp, make sure the it 'press' the string evenly.

    2) The string gripper on the tension head, it bruises multi easily, even if you clockwise the adjustment screw all the way, I end up change that adjustment-screw to a much longer one in order for me to adjust the gripper properly.

    Please feel free to ask any question, look forward to hear your review!!

    :):)
     
    #10
  11. struggle

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    looks like it doesn't have a disc brake. may not be a big deal, but i assumed it does.
     
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  12. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    thank you for your suggestions :)
    if the clamps don't press evenly, is there a way to adjust them?
     
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  13. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    it doesn't have a disc brake. but I knew it from the specs:
    http://www.eagnas.com/plus6500.html
     
    #13
  14. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    thank you guys.
    :)
     
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  15. struggle

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    looks real nice, enjoy!
     
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  16. David123

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    Alch I agree with you. Sometimes even the Neos tension head ghosts multis. I almost turn it all the way to the point where the screw almost comes out and it still does it. I don't believe I was given a longer screw. Is this inevitable?
     
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  17. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    today I stopped by OSH and bought casters to install under the stand.
    it was not easy to find them because the thread is metric.
    the thread is 8mm (5/16") and the pitch is 1.25mm.
    OSH is the only one to carry them (at least in my area).
    I tried Home Depot and ACE but they don't carry them.
     
    #17
  18. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    here it comes my first question.
    I have a doubt about how to set the tension using the dial on the tension head.
    in the instructions it says that every full turn of the knob is equivalent to 3 lb increment/decrement.
    and the marks on the tensions gauge correspond to such increments/decrements (i.e. one mark every 3 lb).
    for increments/decerements of 1 and 2lb I am supposed to use the marks on the knob that say "0", "1" and "2".
    Right?
    now, if I set the tension to align to the mark on the 60lb, the
    mark on the knob is not aligned to "0" but it's closer to the "1".
    I don't know if I explained clearly but english is not my mother tongue. sorry. :-(
    if it's not clear tonight I will submit a couple of pictures.
    thank you!
    cheers,
    g
     
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  19. struggle

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    the knob should be at 0 (zero) when at 60.
    at 59, you would back the knob down to read 2 (two) as it is 2 pounds ABOVE 57, the next mark down on the linear scale.

    60 with 1 on the knob should be 61 pounds. pay attention to the direction of turn as you are setting the tension. the tension scale is small and hard to read, use the knob indicators (0,1,2) to be accurate.

    ......(once you are confident with your calibration....i've yet to calibrate mine and thought the eagnas spring calibrator seemed inaccurate when i tried it).

    edit: when i set my tensioner, the front edge of the white line (the one that moves) seems to correspond with ZERO versus the MIDDLE of the white line. comprendo?
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2010
    #19
  20. gflyer

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    tbuggle thank you for your answer.
    I understand what you say, but my problem is that if I align the knob to "0" then the mark on the tension scale is not aligned properly with the mark.
    For example, if I want to set 60lb and I align the knob to "0" the mark on the LINEAR scale is aligned above 60lb. actually it's between 60lb and the next mark (i guess 63lb).
    does it make sense?

    :confused:
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2010
    #20
  21. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    can just loosen up the knob, align it properly with the linear scale and then perform a calibration?
     
    #21
  22. struggle

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    there is a set screw on the knob, perhaps loosen it (set so the mark reads as you want it first, we'll say 60).
    THEN pull the knob off and get it as close to zero as possible. Mine lines up nicely with the knob at zero and the moving line/scale so the top of the line meets the pound number on the scale.
    You can set it how you like, BUT you'll need to confirm it all eventually by calibrating, especially since it sounds you may move it a pound or two on the knob.
     
    #22
  23. struggle

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    YES, that's what i would try.
     
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  24. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    you answered to my question before I posted :)
    thank you very much. I really appreciate it.
    Now I comprendo :)
     
    #24
  25. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    no problemo.

    i have yet to calibrate my machine. I got the spring calibrator with it but strung up a frame without calibrating and it seemed close to accurate based on other frames/strings i had already. then when i tried to calibrate with the eagnas calibrator it read about 7 pounds too high and i knew that my stringjob was not that tight (58 strung vs 65-ish on the cal.)

    so i am waiting (STILL) for a luggage scale i got from the bay.
    but i have no problem stringing on it for now, the numbers are playing as i expect.
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2010
    #25
  26. David123

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    I have the same thing with my Neos!
     
    #26
  27. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    Congratulations on your new machine

    Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead.

    Maybe this would be a good time to call Victor again. Now that he has your money you may find out if you had good reason to be concerned.

    Let me see if I understand what you are saying. Are you say that the clamp is closing on one side only and they are not flush? That is really not good. You are clamping excessively on one side of the string and half the clamp is only holding the string. If Victor does not replace your clamp talk to your credit card company about their return policy.

    Irvin
     
    #27
  28. struggle

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    he has not yet used his machine, but referring to another post regarding the same issue. i have not had that issue with mine, works fine. the spring calibrator does suck (i think, will confirm later).

    damn the torpedos!! that is a great album!!
     
    #28
  29. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    I hope you are right.

    Irvin
     
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  30. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    I didn't say I have a problem.
    I was just curious because I didn't see an adjustment screw for that.
    I tried to clamp strings and I didn't see anything wrong.
     
    #30
  31. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    deleted post (duplicate)
     
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  32. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    Thank you!
    :)

    what does it mean?
     
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  33. struggle

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    he meant that, like me, you said "hell with it" i'm STILL gonna try an eagnas machine despite the naysayers (those that have bad things to say)!!

    i've so far been happy with my choice, but i'm a tool user. for those that have never touched anything tool-related other than a toolbar on the PC, i'd suggest something much more spendy!
     
    #33
  34. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    There is no adjustment to make the clamps press evenly. If your clamps press evenly then you are fine. But if they do not you have a problem.

    Irvin
     
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  35. alcheng

    alcheng Rookie

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    #35
  36. Lakers4Life

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    You have to get used to your machine, the line is pretty wide, so you have to remember where exactly is the correct setting. You may also want to verify the setting is correct with a digital scale, if you don't already have one. The tension calibrator is not always correct.
     
    #36
  37. gflyer

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    thank you alcheng.
    I understand now :)
     
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  38. gflyer

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    I already have a digital luggage scale.
    I will test the tensioning system tonight.
    Thanks.
    g
     
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  39. alcheng

    alcheng Rookie

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    No problem.

    Regarding the String Gripper Video, after you adjust the gripper by turning the screw, I will suggest you counter-clockwise the screw by 1/2 to 1 turn. Since the gripper has the grip the string a bit tighter under ie. a 60lbs stress.

    :):)
     
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  40. mad dog1

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    congrats, gflyer! the stringer looks very nice. enjoy!
     
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  41. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    thank you buddy :)
     
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  42. gflyer

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    Ok. I have my second question.
    I've read on this board that when using a crank it is important to be consistent when pulling tension, meaning pulling the crank with consistent speed.
    Is this because the after-lock stretch of the strings or it is because cranking at different speed might have the tenisoner to lock-out at slightly different tension?
    in other words, does the speed of my "cranking" motion affect the precision of the lockout system?
    thanks,
    cheers
    g
     
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  43. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    I tried again my clamps last night.
    The clamping is uniform. I don't see any issue whatsoever.
     
    #43
  44. gflyer

    gflyer Professional

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    btw, I didn't start using my machine yet because I have a tournament coming and it's not wise to switch right now.
    Starting monday I will be full time on my new Plus 6500.
    :)
     
    #44
  45. struggle

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    IMO, the idea is to be slow/deliberate/consistent so as to "pre-stretch" each string roughly the same amount. this should create a more even consistent job, over and over. of course this will vary with different strings, but as long as you are consistent, you should get fairly consistent results from string to string, racket to racket.
     
    #45
  46. gflyer

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    thank you tbuggle. I did some tests with scrap strings and the digital scale and I see what you are saying.
    I have a question.
    I noticed that when I pull the string with the tensioner closer to the turntable, I have to turn the crank LESS to achieve a specific tensions. While if I start pulling with the tensioner more away from the turntable I have to turn the crank way more (say 180 or more).
    I guess that is because of the stretch of the strings.
    But when doing a real stringjob what is better. stay as close as possible to the frame or more far?
    Of course this also implies that when checking the calibration with a digital scale, when close to the turntable it is more difficult for me to increase the tension slowly because now few degrees of rotation of the crank correspond to few pound on the scale.
    ...I don't know if it make sense what I am saying...:confused:
     
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  47. gflyer

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    One more question. :)
    After testing several times with very slow and smooth motion I get consistently reading on the scale of 60.3-60.5 lb (with tensioner set to 60lb.).
    I guess the machine doesn't require calibration right?
    thank you!
    cheers,
    g.
     
    #47
  48. mad dog1

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    that's right...it's string stretch.

    in regards to staying close or far? just be consistent and choose 1 way.
     
    #48
  49. mad dog1

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    the tension head is perfect then and you're good to go.
     
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  50. gflyer

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    ^^^ thank you mad_dog1.

    I've just finished my first stringjob.
    much easier than the klippermate.
    fixed clamps are a dream.
    about the cranking system, i am already getting used to it.

    About the final result...
    I usually string my frames on dropweight at 58x60 and get a DT~38.

    Today I strung my frame on the Plus 6500 at 60x62 and got a DT=36.

    therefore I'll have to increase a little more the tension to get to the same DT.

    cheers,
    g
     
    #50

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