Racquetball Stringers...Head Extreme 170?

Discussion in 'Strings' started by jamauss, Apr 5, 2008.

  1. jamauss

    jamauss Hall of Fame

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    Anyone ever strung one of these before? (Head Extreme 170)

    It has the "Inner grommets" and 16 holes in 4 rows of 4 at the throat. I've never done one before and want to make sure I get it right. Nothing to be found at Head's website or anywhere else on the web. :(
     
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  2. jamauss

    jamauss Hall of Fame

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    Well, I guess I will post the answer to what I was looking for in case anyone comes looking here in the future..This racquet was a new adventure! :lol:

    Head Extreme 170 (guessing it's close to the same for the 180 and 190 also)

    16 mains/ 16 crosses
    string 2 piece
    M's skip 6H, 8H, 10H, 11H
    M's tie off at 5H
    start X's at 6H, tie the starting knot at 7H
    Length: About 23 to 24 ft of string for the mains, use the rest for the crosses.

    (Note: I strung the mains first without tension using some throw-away string to get an accurate measurement for measuring the actual string I used. I do this for certain racquetball frames as it can be hard to know exactly how much string is needed for the mains and using too much for the mains can mean not having enough left for the crosses since some racquetball racquets require almost a full 40 ft. of string.)

    Stringing the mains:
    Stringing the mains is a little tricky. There are 16 holes at the throat - 4 "columns" of 4 holes. 2 columns to the right, 2 columns to the left. The formation is sort of like this:
    LL = Left, Left
    LR = Left, Right
    RL = Right, Left
    RR = Right, Right
    Code:
              TOP
       LL    LR       RL   RR
    1  O     O        O     O
    2  O     O        O     O
    3  O     O        O     O
    4  O     O        O     O
    
            BOTTOM
    You'll push the string through say, 1 LR, and it will come out of the hole 1 LL, etc. Which hole you go into and which hole you come out of depends on which hole you're coming from. I'll explain more in the instructions on stringing mains.

    Okay, so, you start your loop at the head. As your middle 2 M's come down into the throat - it doesn't matter which side is done which way but they need to be opposite - start one side going through the throat holes top down and the other side bottom up (So, in the diagram, go from 1 to 4 on one side and 4 to 1 on the other side). And for both sides, the two center-most mains should go into the top (or bottom) hole of the inner holes (Left Right and Right Left columns in the diagram), then come out through the outer holes (Left Left and Right Right in the diagram). This will alternate each time you go through these holes.

    So here's an example of stringing the left side of the mains: (I put a starting clamp on the string outside the frame at 1HL to start off)

    * Come down through 1 HL into 1 LR then out of 1 LL into 5 HL. The reason for going into 5 HL after 1 LL is because there are 4 holes in each column, so you need some holes free between 1 HL and 5 HL to use when coming in and out of those 4 holes in the throat. Tension the string at 5 HL.

    * Go from 5 HL through 7 HL (6HL is skipped - it's a X hole) and down into 2 LL and out of 2 LR up through 2 HL. Tension the string at 2 HL.

    * Go from 2 HL through 3 HL down into 3 LR and out of 3 LL up to 9 HL (8 HL is a X, so skip it). Tension at 9 HL.

    * Go from 9 HL through 12 HL (10 and 11 are X's, so skipped) and down into 4 LL and out of 4 LR up through 4 HL. Tension at 4 HL.

    * Tie off the mains at 5 HL. You're done with one side of the mains.

    The same process can be repeated for the other side, except reverse the order in which the throat holes are used. So in this example, since we started the left side at 1 LR, we'll start the right side at 4 RL. Makes sense, right?

    Also - keep in mind, don't do an entire side of mains before starting on the other side. Do them at the same time, only getting 1 or 2 steps ahead for either side. This helps keep the stress on the frame more even throughout the stringing process.

    Stringing the crosses:
    Nothing too fancy about the crosses except about how to tension the crosses that are in the "inner grommet system". You also must make sure you start the crosses and tie your starting knot on the correct side or else you'll end up hosed at the end of the crosses where you need to tie off in a special "2 hole" area that I will talk about later.

    So, that begs the question - how do I know which side is the correct side to tie my starting knot at and start the crosses on?

    The easy way to tell is - you will start your X's on the same side as where the "double hole" grommet is. You can locate the double hole grommet by looking at the second lowest row of grommets (excluding those in the throat). On one side, you will see 2 holes next to each other - a top/bottom pair. The other side will just have one hole like all the others. The side with the double hole pair is the side you want to tie your starting knot on, at 7 H.

    To tension the X's once you're in the "inner grommet system", here's what I did:

    String/weave the X to the other side like you normally would, and then feed the string through the hole at the end, and pull it completely out of the hole it comes out of, so there is no 'slack' in the string. Then, using your table-lockout, keep the frame in place while you pull the tension with your stringer. Then clamp the end of the woven X string as close to the frame as you can. It isn't real "pretty" but it got the job done for me. If you don't have a table-lockout then, I guess you'll have to just use your body or something else.

    Once you get to the end, it's pretty obvious how you'll go through the last single grommet hole, then out through the lower/bottom hole one grommet-level above and tie it off around the upper/top string. That part makes sense.

    Feel free to contact me through these forums if you have any questions.
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2008
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  3. him88002

    him88002 Rookie

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    You put alot of work into that. Good in depth instruction. Do you write textbooks for a living?
     
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  4. krchawaii

    krchawaii New User

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    Hey what level racquetball do you play?
    And do you play tournaments?
    It seems as though all racquetball players seem to know or at least heard of each other that's why...
     
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  5. him88002

    him88002 Rookie

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    I hope you are talking about the writer of this thread cause I've never played racquetball. I was just admiring his in depth instruction.
     
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  6. jamauss

    jamauss Hall of Fame

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    I don't play racquetball at all, actually. :lol: Tennis is my sport. But I do string racquets at a "tennis and racquet complex" so I occasionally get some racquetball racquets.

    Let's just hope I never get a pickleball paddle to re-..uhh...re-surface? :)

    The info above on how to string that racquetball racquet is just an example of all the weird quirky things required to know how to string them sometimes. E-Force racquetball racquets are just as crazy.
     
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  7. marrodr

    marrodr New User

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    Good posting, jamauss. I just bought 3 of these Head Racquets and was a bit worried about how to string them myself. Your instructions will really come in handy. on another note, I'm thinking of buying a Gamma 6004 stringing machine with 2-pt mounting system. I like this machine because I think the 2pt will do well with smaller racquets, such as those in racquetball. Do you have any opinions or recommendations for machines that may be better suited for rball racquets?
     
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  8. downey stringing master

    downey stringing master Semi-Pro

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    if your just stringing rball a heap crank i'd say
     
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  9. RRA

    RRA New User

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    new user

    Thanks for the instructions. I use a 6 pt gama EP so I had to string all the mains before putting the racquet in the machine. Not enought room at the throat to thread the string through the little holes while clamped.

    Thanks again.
     
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