stringing O3

Discussion in 'Stringing Techniques / Stringing Machines' started by fgzhu88, Nov 19, 2010.

  1. fgzhu88

    fgzhu88 Semi-Pro

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    I'm not sure where to obtain an O3 tool on short notice, but could I just stick my pinky in the holes to to keep the tensioning string in place?
     
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  2. Kevo

    Kevo Hall of Fame

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    I wouldn't. You can stick something in between the strings inside the frame, or hold the frame with your other hand perhaps. I forget who it was, but someone came up with the idea to use an s hook you could get at the hardware store. I remember looking at a picture I think was posted on this forum and it looked like it would work OK. You might try searching for that thread.
     
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  3. Kevo

    Kevo Hall of Fame

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    Oh if you have a starting clamp, the 50/50 pattern would be a good way to go. I think Irvin posted a video on that recently.
     
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  4. jim e

    jim e Hall of Fame

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    If your machine has a brake, then use the brake to keep the string lined up in the proper location, and that is one of the easiest ways to string them up.
     
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  5. dancraig

    dancraig Hall of Fame

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  6. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    Don't put your finger in those holes. Trust me it is going to hurt. If you are doing 1 piece the boomerang is your best bet but it will take a while to get them from Prince and as I understand it you may have to call a few time to get them. If you are doing 2 piece I like the two piece 50/50 method. Both methods are in my video.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/Irvin1944#p/a/u/1/hJHwgzRR_gw

    There are other option some people use a sharpie cap which is about 1/2" in diameter. I don't like them they are angled and can fly out. Get a wooden dowel or anything else that is about as round as the thickness of the distance between your crosses. There are only going to be about 4 or 5 crosses that are effected by the. Those are the first ones below the normal grommet holes until you get to the center of the racket. Once you get to the center the normal pull of the tensioner puts the string in the bottom of the port and all is ok. Once you find the spacer you want place it perpendicular to the string bed, close to the frame, between the string you are tensioning and the string above it while pulling tension. Clamp your string and move on.

    Here is anther trick that may help. Some stringers have adjustments for the 6 and 12 o'clock supports that adjust separately. If your's is like that mount the racket so it is off center and the swivel for the bar is as close to the top of the racket as possible. I am not a big fan of this option but it was one of the USRSA's top tips a while back so I doubt it is bad for the frame.

    Then there is the brake and hip methods. The brake holds the racket in position so the strings stay in the bottom of the grommet where they need to be for clamps. Twisting the stringer and holding it with your hip works too. If you have a table top with no brake neither of these work.

    Best of luck

    Irvin
     
    #6
  7. fgzhu88

    fgzhu88 Semi-Pro

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    thanks guys! Unfortunately I'm operating on limited funds/machinery. With a table-top, no-break gamma x-2, I cannot use the hip method. No starting clamp = no 50-50 pattern :(

    I think I'll take your wooden dowel suggestion, Irvin, because it basically replaces my finger method, which I now understand would have been a terrible idea.

    I couldn't find the thread on using 's-hooks' and I'm not sure how that would work.
     
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  8. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    The dowel should work but you could start your crosses the same way you start your mains for the 2 piece 50/50.

    Irvin
     
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  9. Steve Huff

    Steve Huff Legend

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    If you don't have a brake, it's better to hold the racket in place by the handle than sticking your finger in the hole. Your finger has way too much friction. Another thing to do is mount the frame as far down in the stringer (toward the throat) as possible. You'll reach the point where you don't need to hold it faster.
     
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  10. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    ^^ It would be hard to hold the racket by the handle on a table top machine while you are pulling tension with a drop weight. Also correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't it be better to mount the racket farther to the top of the racket so you would reach the center point faster?

    Irvin
     
    #10
  11. rufusbgood

    rufusbgood Semi-Pro

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    Agree. Starting clamp is nice but not a necessity.
     
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  12. Steve Huff

    Steve Huff Legend

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    Seems so to me also. Just remember reading it in last months Racquettech tips. Probably would be tough to hold a drop weight since you're probably using both hands already. I guess if you've got to do a lot of O ports, buy a new machine.
     
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  13. dancraig

    dancraig Hall of Fame

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    Last edited: Nov 28, 2010
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  14. struggle

    struggle Hall of Fame

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    clamp your machine to a work bench/work mate/table and use the hip method, perhaps.
     
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