Discussion in 'Strings' started by J011yroger, Mar 8, 2008.
Yes, I would.
Have you tried something like RIP Control?
On the Poly front, I thought Pacific Poly Force Xtreme was the best volleying poly I have ever used, and it is pretty darned soft aswell.
but i think with such a high tension they wont last long cause im a heavy topspin hitter, and since i dont have a stringing machine it would cost me too much to restring every half month. if i get a poly or another control string i would be able to string not so high and still get the control i want. still im gonna follow your advice and string it at 61 or 62 next time. lets see how much they last and if they give me the control I desperately need.
no i havent tried RIP but i certainly will. as a full setup or should i get a hybrid?
Hey J - I was reviewing the Luxilon On Tour Blog and noticed an overwhelming amount of the pros featured on there use Alu Power. I recently started using Alu Power Rough and love it. I know you use Rough as well. Just curious... Have you ever used the non-Rough version? If so, why do you prefer Rough? I was just surprised to see so few pros using Rough (and so many using Alu Power). Your thoughts on the subject would be appreciated.
Nope, I have only used the rough, so I can't weigh in.
One day my stringer will be out of rough, and I will put in the normal and compare, but it hasn't happened in the past couple years that I have been using Lux.
He knows with me around he can never stock too much
The gist of what I hear is that the smooth, holds tension better, lasts longer, but doesn't bite as hard.
Difference is however minimal.
^^^ Ok - Thanks J011y. More q's for you...
Do you tend to break your Alu Power Rough before it goes dead? I haven't broken mine yet but only have about 2.5 hours of play with it. I am trying to determine when I should cut 'em out and re-string - assuming I don't break it before it goes dead. With a poly like Alu Power Rough, is pure time my tension-loss enemy or is it playing time? The reason I ask... In the winter months, I only play indoors approximately two times per week. Therefore over the period of two weeks, for example, I may only have about six hours of playing time on my strings. However, two weeks of actual time will have passed since my last stringing. How can I determine when to re-string?
Another question... I play with a POG MP, and thus can string it up one piece (without having to go ATW) or two piece - using a starting clamp and a finishing knot (as opposed to a starting knot). Given the choice, what do you prefer?
No, ALU goes dead before I break it, but I keep playing it in the interest of economy
I don't think time bothers it so much more than playing time. I have no problem leaving them in the bag for a while, it is the playing that beats them up.
As far as the one or two piece, I don't care, so long as you do it the same every time.
Hey, a stringin question, since I dont wanna start a thread for only that. I bought Luxilon Big Banger Alu power 16, to finally try it. Ive been usin a hybrid of Gosen Polylon Ice 17 as mains (56lbs) and Gosen OG Micro sheep as crosses (57 lbs). Im gonna try the hybrid using the Luxilon as mains and the same Gosen OG as crosses; regarding tensions, so they would feel kinda the same, what do you recommend? Specially on Luxilon, since Ive heard they dont loose tension that much. Thanks Jolly, or anyone else who can input on this.
Keep the tension the same. Were did you hear lux. don't loose tension that much? If you looking for a poly that doesn't loose much tension give Weiss cannon silverstring ago.
Ya, start off the same and adjust from there.
I dunno, somewhere here, or maybe got confused; isnt that the case with polys? Anyhow, someone told me to string Luxilon BB with 10% less tension as my regular, but since ive been using Gosen polylon ice as mains, which, to me, is a very stiff string... I was wondering if i should string @ same tension or a bit less, have never played with Luxilon before, but thats Matty and Jolly for reply
I must agree with J011yroger on the RIP Control.. it's an awesome string, and an absolute bang for the buck IMO... They're supposedly a multifilament, but it doesn't fray as fast. Though I find that the strings at the sweetspot end up to have a flat profile rather than a round one after around 3 hours of hitting.. hehe...
Hey J011y, how do think a hybrid of say a 17 gauge poly (some Kirschbaum string, I'm thinking Super Smash or Super Smash Spiky) in the mains and an economical synthetic gut (something like Forten Sweet 17 or PSGO/PSGD 17) in the crosses play? I'm thinking I'll put the mains at 55 and synthetic gut at 58. What do you think?
Ha ha they were wrong lux. is one of the worst at holding tension sadly. They recommend all polys to be strung 10% loser so you should be fine keeping it the same.
That's a great write up! I especially liked the explanation about the gauge difference and the plow-through versus spin preference. In that light, I would like to share a personal opinion that older and heavier racquets (woodies and early graphite) have much better plow-through properties than newer racquets that tend to be made lighter and more spin-generating. According to me, this is a very important point to make, because a lot of people do not understand why new racquets feel so different than the oldies. Some people also don't understand how important weight is with tennis racquets because of that plow-through effect.
I hated Kirsch Super Smash Spiky more than any string I have ever played in my entire life. . . ever.
I tried to warm up for a dubs match with it, 2 minutes into the warmup I switched to one of my normal frames with Lux, and I cut the KSSS out the next day.
Worst string ever.
And I can play with pretty much anything.
So. . . I feel that I am unable to answer your question in an unbiased manner.
I have 2 raqs, I'm stringing them with BBO...
I'm planning to or will play with the BBO for a month or until it breaks...
Should I string them together now?
And let the other fresh BBO stay on the other raq for a month not played?
Or is this a bad idea?
Will it loose too much tension if not played for a month?
I haven't done it yet, and I think it's not a good idea...
But I just wanna hear what you can say...
It will play fine after a month of just chilling in your bag, I find that after the first 3 days initial loss, they don't drop much more until you play them.
Having said that, I see no reason to string up a racquet if you have no chance of using it within the month.
So I would string one, and keep whatever is in your other racquet as a backup incase the main one breaks.
That way especially if you don't like the tension you picked for the first frame, you are not stuck with another one at the same tension for another month, you can adjust when it comes time to string the 2nd.
Remember even if you are not a stringbreaker, you are allways one shank away from going to your backup racquet. So if you are going to be playing competitively it might make more sense to string them both.
So here's what I'm gonna do:
String 1 raq now...
String raq2 3weeks after(with my better/preferred tension)...
Use raq2 after another week(after 1month using raq1)...
and delegate raq1 as a back-up...
I can then restring raq1 on the third week of raq2's use...
and so on...
I won't have any problem with untimely breakage coz I will always have a back-up...
Plus I string my own...
What are some good alternatives to the Kirschbaum? I'm looking for a 17 gauge string.
What are you using now, and what would you like to be different?
I'm currently using Kirschbaum Super Smash 16 in a full job in a MicroGel Radical Mid+. It was OK for maybe a week or two then it started losing tension and it's starting to become uncontrollable. It was pretty soft and I liked that about it. Pretty nice spin, but now that it's dead it's basically a cannon. I'm looking for a cheap hybrid that is durable and has a ton of spin and power.
Maybe I'm expecting too much.
I think the Kirsch just really sucks.
And that is a lot of your problem.
It is a bit pricey, but for soft polys I like Pacific Poly Force Extreme.
But I have not tried everything under the sun, so maybe you would be better served by asking someone like NickB who has more experience with the cheaper off brand polys.
If I was stringing your radical for ME to play with, I would think that I would like something like a Pro Hurricane Tour hybrid.
I have played it a few times crossed with gut in other peoples frames, and liked it.
But gut would blow your budget. Still though it might be worth trying with a cheapo syn gut cross.
I don't like polyester much either, but I have no choice, because I have two 660 reels that I got for free and I need to finish them...
one question. a racquet strung at low tension would have more feel than a racquet strung at high tension? cause before i was stringing at 58 and the stringbed has a lot of feel and dwell time. i felt like a could put the ball anywhere i want to when hitting dropshots and slices. now i strung it at 60 cause i need less power but now i dont get much feel or dwell time and is not as easy for me to hit good dropshots, slices as before, even topspin has reduced noticeably.
There is a range on most strings where the lower for power, higher for control paradigm works pretty well. However, once you go too high or too low the model falls apart. This range will be different for different players. Some players hit harder, some softer.
In your case, you might want to try the 16g version of the string you are using at 58lbs. instead of going up in tension on the 17g. Typically the thicker guage of a string will maintain it's properties to a higher tension than the thinner version.
That's a good info. I was alays wondering how Pete Sampras plays with 17 gauge on 72 lbs...
Because his racquet weighs over 14 ounces. When you have that much momentum in your racquet, the high tension becomes tolerable. At that weight, it's really more like he's playing with it at 65 or something more reasonable. BTW, it's 75 pounds. Not to mention he used to play with 18 gauge VS (which was custom made for him by Babolat).
I would guess this is the same reason why Jolly can play with ALU Rough at 70... since his racquet is HEAVY. It would probably be unplayable if it was stock weight.
OTOH, setups like this are only usable when the racquet is MOVING. You'll have a hard time finding enough pop on soft shots, or serve if you don't have the strength to THRUST that thing through the air like an F-15. But you'd have ludicrous control and spin.
Personal preferance, some people hit touch shots better with softer strings and stringbeds saying they can feel the ball better. Some like stiffer deader stringbeds saying they know exactly where the ball is going to go.
When it comes to volleys and droppers and cutsie shots, just go with what works for you.
There's no reason to string higher unless you like it that way, or you're having control issues.
Correct, I generally like most midsize frames strung at 58-60lb, and MP frames 62-64 when they are stock weight, sometimes higher with a hot multi or gut.
I know that. I was just being sarcastic. I have strung my racquet on 85+ lbs. I have played with it with and without weights. I did that in an attempt to find the closest response from it to a Dunlop Max 200G. I have gone very low as I have gone very high... I have done that with strings of different gauge 15-18...
thank you! helpful without being boring and very objective. I´m a 38 yo - 10 y away from tennis - played since 10yo - had to learn everything from stracth-guy and your help was very much aprecciated!
Ps trying polys now (luxl because i wanted to) (i wont say what i have on my max200g). .... lowered the tension (now about 50 lbs) and feels good.
Here is some info that you might find interesting:
Hey J. In a previous post, you mentioned that your full Alu Power Rough job usually goes dead before you break 'em. How many hours of play do you get out of Rough before you feel it starting to go dead? How can you tell?
It depends on what I am doing. In the winter I can get 2-3 dubs matches out of a stringjob. If drilling groundies with a good partner I can break it inside of 2 hours, esp on clay. I usually use new stringjobs for matchplay, and then burn them up the rest of the way in practice.
It notches like 1/2 way and from that point on can go at any minute, sometimes they snap shortly after, and sometimes they hang in there until I can't stand them anymore.
When the strings stay out of position after a hit, they are REALLY shot.
haha, Jo11yroger this was a good laugh! I needed it- thanks
You could always do some trading (or even selling at a minimal cost, to recoup postage) on the TW For Sale/Trade board--just so you could do some experimentation or trying out of different things.
Because you got the reels for free, you would not have to ask for much. I bet you'll get more than a few takers. (Go here, and take a look: http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=101727&page=55).
What kinds of poly strings were the reels?
question for J011yroger,
I know you don't recommend poly for players who can't break synth. string within 5-10 hrs but I have a couple of questions.
currently using blue gear full poly, strung at 59#.
I really like the control i have with poly and no string bed movement, if i where to switch should i string the synth. gut @ 64# ?
I was reading about the NRG2, is that similar to Prince Recoil? I can't see paying 20+ for Prince Recoil.
Any other suggestions?
For over 20 years of tennis, I have tried all types of strings...
I know that if I give the strings for free, many people will want to get them, but I would rather use up the polyester than spend money for strings for no reason...
The reels are Wilson Enduro Gold 16g.
Thanks for the advice though!
tried head rip control on your recommendation and am quite happy with it. it's really easy on my arm and i get 12-14 good hours out of it. thanks for the guide!
Yea, 64 would be a starting point, but understand that you may have to go up or down as the 10% is just a suggestion, and I really don't buy into it as much as most.
NRG2 is nothing like Recoil, but it is a great string. I really like NRG2, and I liked Recoil much more than most on the boards, pity it is so expensive.
Glad to help.
I wonder if this can get re-stickied now?
Just use Blue Gear on the mains and NRG2 on the crosses... you'll get the better pop and comfort but will keep the spin and control.
I'm going to try hybrid big ace #61 / maxim touch #64.
I will also try the NRG2.
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