alidisperanza
Hall of Fame
What's the difference? Taste? Come on, this is beer, not wine.
When you grow enough hair on your chest to actually drink a beer. I dearly hope you will edit that statement.
What's the difference? Taste? Come on, this is beer, not wine.
I don't drink beer/wine much at all, though I have some opinions on them, but I have no idea what you're talking about. It's cool, I agree with you.
Belgian beers? If you say so, I'll def. have to try one.
you've spent more than one page to talk about wine and beer?
I don't drink beer/wine much at all, though I....
Negative.
Different wines are conducive to different foods. And I'm not talking about the general red with meat, white with fish. Just the same, there's a beer for any meal. American beers are actually rather pathetic in that category unfortunately. Sam Adams does make an effort but meh. Belgian beers are where it's at. There's a complexity of flavor that equals if not surpasses wine.
Negative.
Different wines are conducive to different foods. And I'm not talking about the general red with meat, white with fish. Just the same, there's a beer for any meal. American beers are actually rather pathetic in that category unfortunately. Sam Adams does make an effort but meh. Belgian beers are where it's at. There's a complexity of flavor that equals if not surpasses wine.
wrong.... some American microbreweries produce outstanding beer. and yes i've sampled the best beers from the monks...an excellent but different beer style.
20 years ago I would agree with you. I went to Berlin a few years ago and could not find any better beers than some of my favorite American microbrews.
you've spent more than one page to talk about wine and beer?
you've spent more than one page to talk about wine and beer?
PS. Can't forget the chicken wings... All good tennis bets must be bolstered by beer and chicken wings... or crab-cakes. I almost forgot the crab-cakes
I have been using a 16x19 frame strung with Recoil the last 9 months and have been liking it. I recently tried the youtek radical mp which is a 18x20 frame. If I get that strung up with recoil would you recommend lightening up on the tension. I typically string my 16 X 19 yonex at 57lbs? Any other control strings you have been recommending lately that might work well with the radical?
..."jive string"! Nice!
Nice write up... first thread in a long time, that i sat and read the whole thing!!!
Sticky, Sticky, Sticky!
Jolly,
I have two questions for string recommendations if you have a few minutes. About me: 43 year-old, hitting 3-4 hours on Sat, and about 3.5 hours on Mon or Tues. 80% of my hitting is on Har-Tru clay, with 20% on Hard Courts. My job as pilot keeps me from hitting on Wed or Thurs. :sad: I'm a self-rated 3.5, who has had two back surgeries, but recovered after a herniation of my L4/L5 disc. My back isn't a problem now, and for that I am thankful. I hit in drills and practice against 4.0s. I played 4.0 for most of my adult life, but self-rated due to a seven year tennis break, and the two surgeries. I'm play singles on my Men's 3.5 team and I've had arm issues in the past. I prefer flexible frames, generally stringing at lower tensions. The Dunlop 300 4D, Pro Kennex Black Ace 98, and Yonex RDiS 200 are three frames I've recently demoed and really liked. I purchased three Dunlop 300s, and plan to add weight to both the handle and at 3/9 to get the strung weight up 12 oz. I probably should have purchased the 300 Tour since it is heavier. Had I hit with the Yonex RDiS 200 before the Dunlop, it might have become new racquet, but the Dunlop 300s feel solid. I figured as I get older, I might not like the weight, and could remove the lead tape from the 300, where the Black Ace 98, and Yonex RDis 200, and 300 Tour have the weight built into the frame.
One of my Dunlops is getting strung tomorrow am in this setup: Technifibre Black Code 17 in the mains at 55, with Technifibre X-One Bi-phase 16 at 57 in the crosses.
I just switched from a Prince White EXO, and used the same setup on the EXO White except I was using Technifibre 17g in the crosses. The crosses always broke first, so I switched to a 16g, and retried at the same tension in the Dunlop 300 4D. Trying X-One Bi-phase only just didn't produce the same feel, as the BlackCode/X-One Hybrid.
I normally got about three to four weeks when playing Sat-Mon, before breaking a cross in the Prince EXO White. The BlackCode 17 wasn't moving that much, but the X-One biphase is soft, and the BlackCode saws through it easily. The only time my elbow hurts is if I play too long, too many days in a row.
The Dunlop rep strung all three of my racquets at "60" for free as part of the racquet promotion (Buy Two Sticks, Get One Free), but the strings are so tight, I can't move a single string in the middle of any of the racquets. If this is "60", I think I might drop the tension to 50/52 range. That is the tightest "60", I have ever felt, and think there has to be a mistake. Maybe the stringer set the tension at "65" for another order during the Family Circle Cup Tournament. The Dunlop folks were selling a ton of 300s/500s and 300/500 Tours at this tournament, so maybe my racquets were mixed up with another order. Three hitting sessions with the Dunlop 300 with Dunlop "Explosive" at 60 is enough to make me cut the string out of all three Dunlops. I never planned to use the "free" stringjob, but rather want to use the current job as a reference to start with a lower tension.
Before I commit to any more stringing jobs, could you give me recommendations for strings for my pattern of play?
I will be able to hit with the Dunlop with Blackcode 17M / X-One 16X tomorrow night and let you know how that works if that will help you. I've never tried gut, and am hesitant to use it on all three sticks, since I live in the humid south and no indoor courts. I could try gut in one, BlackCode/X-One hybrid in another, and something else if you could recommend something. I don't want to go full poly or full X-One, but would try a full bed of something else if you might have a recommendation.
2) A 4.5 friend of mine hits with a Babolat PDGT+. He is breaking X-One Bi-phase 17g in less than five hours. He broke polys (not sure the brand) in about 10 hours. He's an all-court player, with a big forehand, great volleys, and solid 2H topspin BH and 1H BH slice. Any recommendation for him?
.
I'm will be buying a stringer soon and will get something with a stand. A used Neos 1000 in great condition is what I'm looking for. I'm not looking to get ripped off by one the hundreds of scam artists trolling this website. I am off Sat-Sun-Mon-Tues, and do have the free time to start stringing my racquets and my friends. I've told two best tennis friends, I would string their racquets for free once I learn on my sticks. I'll let them pay for the strings, once I'm know what I'm doing. As frequent string breakers, they like this idea very much.
I realize stringing racquets isn't for everyone. I do have quite a bit of free time as a professional pilot, and it would save me and my friends some coin in the long run. They both break more strings than me, and I'm having to string a racquet a month myself. I think the stringer would give me a lot of options to experiment and save my friends a little coin at the same time.
Thanks for you help.
lol, me too.
2 Thumbs up!!
I actually learned something and that is to focus more on depth of shot with a more relaxed stroke. Ty
What are your frames generally strung on? A tabletop Gamma Progression, so you hit the nail on the head. The Dunlops were strung on an Babolat Star 4, so 60 lbs felt much higher than the standard 57/55 on the Gamma.
What is he looking for in a string? More durability with less restring jobs. So if a poly will go dead in 20 hours, that might not be the best option. Would a cheap 16g synthetic gut work better for him, since the life of a poly is rather limited before it "goes dead"? If he could get 30 hours (2.5 hours times three times each week) out of set of strings, I think he would be much happier.
If you could tell me what he is using now, and what he would like in a new string I could make a recommendation, but shy of that I would just be shooting in the dark. He had a gray Poly in there, not sure what it was. Maybe Luxilon. He wasn't sure either. It snapped after a few days of hitting, I gave him some X-One Bi-phase, and it lasted less than 10 hours before he popped it. The poly last longer, so he needed durability more than anything, but as a school teacher with a limited budget, I know he has to consider the cost of the strings, and the restringing fees.
Sounds awesome, and I feel that you once you get the stringer will be one of those guys who just tries every string on the planet for fun. Right again. Similar to fishing with different lines and baits.
With a good group of friends to string for you should be able to recoup your investment, and have some fun stringing and trying out new stuff for yourself, and so I wish you best of luck with that. I told the friend with the PDGT+, I would string his sticks for free once I learn. I will buy inexpensive string (PSG) and practice on my old sticks that I no longer use. e.g., Prince 03 Reds, Wilson Skunks, & Prince EXO Whites. I will let my neighbors play with them as they are just learning to hit. I figure I can learn with some cheap string, then once I'm more comfortable, I can start to look at other options. Before stringing for a few close friends, I would ask for their inputs, make suggestions based on what their looking for, then get the string, and then only charge them for the string. It's a way to help me become a better stringer, while saving money for my friends. If they give me referrals for jobs, I could charge $15 labor + price of strings to those they refer.
Let me know how you and your friend are finding what you play now, and I will try to help a bit more narrowing down choices of what to try. But so many companies make good strings, it is tough to pick a bad one.
Right now he has X-One Bi-phase in one of the PDGT+ that didn't pop.
Thanks again for your help. g4driver
J
So a couple of questions:
If I'm not a string breaker, is there ANY advantage to using a poly hybrid (playability, performance, feel, and spin)?
Do multis, by and large, outperform other synguts?
After 60 hours of hitting is the best bang for the buck to go with a full bed of natural gut? From what I've read, gut maintains the best performance (if moisture, humidity and heat are avoided) until the string breaks.
How do popular multis and synguts perform after 60 hours of hitting (provided the strings don't break). I'm trying to picture a graph, where time (from 1-60 hours) goes left to right (x-axis) and performance/playability is up and down (y-axis).
Poly would have the quickest and steepest fall off right?
And Natural gut would have the most level line?
How would the graphs of other popular multis and synguts look?
What about hybrid combinations?
From what I've read, gut maintains the best performance (if moisture, humidity and heat are avoided) until the string breaks.
Yo J011yroger... just wanted to say thanks for posting on this forum as I trust your opinions a lot!
To answer your questions:
1) Period of time: I play about 60 hours over 6 weeks. (I just started a couple of months ago and don't hit close to a heavy ball, nor do I have too much competition that does
2) Conditions: Outdoor. 80% Nights. 100% Hard courts. 60-65F nearly no humidity .
Basically, I'm an aspiring 3.0 player who's best weapon is the serve. Looking for a string/string combo that will give me the best performance over a 60-80 hour 6-8 week period, as I plan on restringing by then anyway (if I have to?). I platoon 2 racquets, switching them every day (so each racquet will have 30-40 hours of play over a 6 week period). PSGD would probably be a good fit, but I'm looking to see if another string/string combo would offer a little "more".
i have a quick question. why sometimes 'multifiliment' strings are labeled as 'synthetic gut' strings?
is it because it is a synthetic gut string but constructed as multifiliment?
i have a quick question. why sometimes 'multifiliment' strings are labeled as 'synthetic gut' strings?
is it because it is a synthetic gut string but constructed as multifiliment?
So a couple of questions:
If I'm not a string breaker, is there ANY advantage to using a poly hybrid (playability, performance, feel, and spin)?
Yes. A polyester increases the amount of spin that is available to you, as well as reducing string movement. However, spin is largely determined by the skill of the racquet's wielder, not by the string. A professional with any string in his racket will completely outspin a beginner with the spinniest of strings. A beginner using polyester gains no advantage over using synthetic strings. Disadvantages include losing a lot of spin and sacrificing playability.
Do multis, by and large, outperform other synguts?
Yes. In the first roughly 15 hours of their lives, they provide greater power, greater comfort, and more arm comfort. However, synthetic guts keep their tension a little bit better. After around 15-20 hours of play, multis get very mushy, and most elect to cut them out.
After 60 hours of hitting is the best bang for the buck to go with a full bed of natural gut? From what I've read, gut maintains the best performance (if moisture, humidity and heat are avoided) until the string breaks.
Your conditions are indeed, pretty good for gut. You don't break strings, you live where there's little humidity, and you're playing on a hard court. If you are willing to shell out the money, gut is your best option. It helps prevent you from getting tennis elbow down the road.
How do popular multis and synguts perform after 60 hours of hitting (provided the strings don't break). I'm trying to picture a graph, where time (from 1-60 hours) goes left to right (x-axis) and performance/playability is up and down (y-axis).
Let's run our y axis from 100. 100 represents the particular string's maximum performance.
Syn gut: 100- 95 in the first half hour. Goes slowly from 95-80 in the next 8 hours. Goes rapidly from 80 to 40 in the next hour. Goes from 40 to 30 in the remainder of the life.
Multi: 100-90 in the first half hour. Goes slowly from 90-80 in the next 10 hours. Goes from 80 to 40 in the next 10 hours. Decreases from 40 to 30 in the next hour. Stays steady at 30.
Gut: 100-95 in the first two hours. Slowly increases from 95 to 99.7 over the course of the string's life unless affected by humidity, excessive heat, or moisture.
Poly: 100-90 in the first hour. Slowly falls from 90 to 80 in the next ten hours. Falls from 80 to 10 in the next hour. Stays steady at 10.
Poly would have the quickest and steepest fall off right?
And Natural gut would have the most level line?
How would the graphs of other popular multis and synguts look?
What about hybrid combinations?
Whatever the main string is would be the most similar graph.
Can you give an example?
I am not exactly sure what you are talking about.
P.S. Love the SN.
J
so mainly it's all the same material just thicker/thinner strands after construction?Synthetic gut has two connotations. 1. is a basic nylon string wrapped with a little bit of something. This gives you strings like Prince Synthetic Gut, OG Micro, etc. 2. a string that is not natural and is made of nylon. Such a definition would include anything that's not natural gut, poly or kevlar. All multifilament strings (which are, essentially, a ton of nylon filaments stuck together, and sometimes mixed with other materials) and all synthetic guts under the first definition as well as all tournament nylon strings.
like the RIP control. it's under the 'multifilment' category but in the premium 'synthetic' string group. i was just confused a little after seeing that.
so mainly it's all the same material just thicker/thinner strands after construction?
i have a quick question. why sometimes 'multifiliment' strings are labeled as 'synthetic gut' strings?
is it because it is a synthetic gut string but constructed as multifiliment?