Discussion in 'Strings' started by Tennisspieler, Nov 29, 2012.
Thanks for the tip.
Pro's Pro Spinox plays very similar to 4G and costs $33.70 for a full reel. I've been playing 4G in one Steam 99S frame and Spinox in another side by side for a week and I'm absolutely shocked by how similar they feel. Spinox is my new go-to string for the 99S.
I think it will come up a little short. It takes me 14' of string to do the crosses on a 105S. I might be able to get that down a couple of inches but not enough to get three sets from 40'.
Where did you get those 1.38 Concepts? I found that 1.33 is the thickest one on their site.
BigTtennis has 1.38 for $37
Thanks for the report racertempo. My 4G reel is almost gone and as much as I love it, that $180/reel price tag is hard to pay. Apparently though, you bought the last reel of 1.38 Concept. hexagon was right: 1.33 is the thickest on their site now
$180? That's cheap lol
here in Germany a reel costs €224,90
Not to mention 4G Rough, where a reel costs €279,90!!
We're being ripped off big time here
Well, I order it via the "slow boat". It normally costs $260.
Also, BigT confirmed that the Concept 1.38 has been discontinued.
How's the spin of concept? BigT website says it compares to scorpion, which isn't really a spin friendly string.
Have you tryed Prince Tour XS??? Incredible spin and control.
I'm using Prince XS 1.35 as my crosses, since they seem to create a nice base for the mains to slide on. I haven't tried a full bed, but I'm a little worried about tension maintenance and durability. The XS crosses break before the 4G mains, somewhere around 15-20 hours. I'm worried that XS as the mains will break in half that time. Once my 4G is all gone, though, I'll probably need to start experimenting again.
Question: Transitioning from the pure drive to the steam 99s. Had been playing the PD with a Hybrid (poly/Multi: Cyclone tour mains/Prince PPA in crosses) at low tension around 40/44, sometimes 36/40.
Question is how does the 99s play at the low tension range? I guess the recommended range is 54-64.
I would like to share my experience with this racquet and various strings and tensions. The most important lesson I learnt from a lot of testing is that every string has its ideal tension for a particular racquet. With that said it becomes clear that a lot of experimenting would be needed to find the ideal setup (very expensive). So I will just share some of the testing I have done so that could eliminate some of the bad combos (string/tension).
Synthetic gut 16 at 56lb - just OK playability but strings move too much and only last 2-3 hours = bad combo
Volkl cyclone 16 at 58lb - way too stiff, felt like a board, no power and a lot of shock = bad combo
Volkl cyclone mains 16 / Luxilon M2 Pro 16 crosses at 52lb - ok playability, but felt too soft, no crispness and bad control, and a lot of the force from the incoming ball is transferred to the frame because of the low tension and super softness so stability is an issue = average combo
Babolat RPM Blast 16 at 54lb - ok playability at first and a lot of power that is hard to control. And after a couple of weeks, there was way to much power and no top spin at all, all the shots would just go long, barely playable at that stage = bad combo
Luxilon 4G 16 at 56lb - great playability, great topspin, soft and crisp and good racquet stability. Best sting/tension combo of all the ones I tried = great combo
Note: most the above combos were bad for this racquet. However that is not too say that the strings were bad, just the combo. For example, the Volkl cyclone is one of the highest rated strings on TW, but at 58lb on this racquet it was way too stiff, so a lower tension may be all that's needed to make a great combo. Same with Babolat RPM, which may need a higher tension to make a great combo. Even the Luxilon might even be better at a slightly higher tension... It's all trial and error so expect to spend a bit of time and money until you find the perfect combo!
I'm using a Prince ESP racket(14x16) but I like using Wilson Ripspin 1.35m(now Revolve) with Isospeed Baseline Longlife 1.35m. Price is very good, snapback is great and I get over 10 hours out of this set up. For some reason the Long Life string is cheaper here but the Revolve string is cheaper in Europe.
But we do not know if our shots actually are faster or have more spin on them.
Some people are not as sensitive to sensory perceptions as others.
Some people don't even know what a spinning ball look like.
I can tell if my shots are faster/slower than my other shots.
I can also tell if my balls are spinning, or spinning more or not spinning at all.
And I don't use any tracking device to know. I just use my eyeballs.
When I hit on a wall, I use a special bi-color tennis ball (http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/Prince_Stage_3_Red_Felt_Ball_12_Pack/descpagePRINCE-PBS3R12PK.html)
to help me clearly see whether the ball is spinning or not and how fast or slow they are spinning.
When I play on the court, I mark my regular tennis balls with big black dots (dime size) so I can see whether they are spinning or not and how fast/slow they are spinning.
I don't have to know the exact number of RPM.
But I can see if they are spinning or not.
I can also see if they are spinning faster or slower.
And this is what I found by actually doing it.
The major determinant of spin or no spin is my stroke mechanics, not my rackets or strings.
I agree that the racket/string helps.
I notice when using the Wilson Steam 105S that I can generate more spin.
However, I also get the occassional flat ball (no spin) when I don't execute my topspin stroke right.
The take-away is this:
If you do not have the topspin generating stroke, no racket/string can help you generate a top-spinning ball.
I've tried alot of different poly combinations. All broke in 2-3hrs or less (4g in 1hr).
While 4g is my fave (maybe rpm as well), i can't standing stringing every other day (or paying for it),
so I sucked it up, and now I play kevlar mains, with poly crosses...
Strings can last ~12hr, especially if I keep moving the cross strings to make a "new notch"... by the time they break, I have ~3 sets of notches per cross string...
great advice... I think you posted this in another thread, and have used it regularly (for string packs)
The chap who bought my 99S's now uses Prince Tour XS 15L (1.35) @48m/45x. He has gone through a whole reel and was going to change (just to change). I told him TW had it on sale for 50/reel and he instructed me to get two reels. He says he gets more spin with it and the feel is not too bad.
by the time they break, I have ~3 sets of notches per cross string...
I just want to clarify.
These 3 sets of notches are on the mains, not on the crosses.
yes, the notches are on the mains...
I have 3-distinct-notches-on-the-mains, per 1 cross string... (basically I start with cross strings pusheed all the way, then after ~4hrs I push them all the way down, then i try to position them somewhere in the middle (not on a notch))
It's kinda annoying to do it, and align it perfectly, but beats more frequent restringing
I do the same thing.
I am using Volkl V-Star 18g poly as a cross.
My mains are multis (I cannot use poly mains because of arm problems).
The multi mains are severely notched right away (4 hours) so I reposition the cross
on a new area on the mains.
I also tried putting Babolat SS and it helped a lot.
I also tried using thicker poly crosses (Volkl V-Star 16g) and the thicker crosses does not notch the mains as severely/quickly as the thinner polys (18g).
I think I will stick with a thicker poly cross (16g or 15L) at a lower tension.
I use various 15g poly's for cross... baseline for now since it's cheap.
i've never tried multi for mains, and poly for crosses, might have to give it a try... but generally multis are broken in <1hr
Well it sure looks like the spin rackets mission has been accomplished which is sell a lot more string. I can get more spin out of head gravity string with a regular racket and not go through strings in a few hours.
Thanks-glad it is saving you some money on strings.
You can also just use 6 racquet lengths for the crosses. It is the easy way to cut the pack into thirds. The last string will be one inch shorter than the first two, but you won't notice it when you string the frame.
27 inches X 6 = 162 inches
162 inches / 12 = 13.5 feet
13.5 feet X 3 = 40.5 feet
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