Discussion in 'Strings' started by Mansewerz, Jul 11, 2008.
I heard you have to do something like 50/50 stringing or stringing the crosses like mains?Any help?
Which O3 racquet in particular?
To me the Prince O3 racquets are about the easiest to string. All the directions are painted on the racquet. Knot holes are marked for one and 2 piece. Dots are painted for the mains. If you string with one piece it tells you the short side.
You can string with 2 pieces and you don't have to string 50/50.
People who have troubles with a boomerang or brake make it sound too complicated. I don't know why they overthink it. It is easy.
50-50 makes stringing O3 racquets two-piece much easier, but that does NOT mean that you have to.
YuLitle. Don't you think 50/50 is harder. You actually have to find the right center grommett in order for the end pieces to end on the right holes. The end holes are very specific and it requires you to count.
ha i'll admit when I 1st mounted an O3 frame I was a little intimadated. But really it is pretty easy all the directions make it pretty brainless
Couldn't agree more. Very easy to string on my Klippermate. slightly fiddly with the crosses using the boomerang or sharpie, but other than that, the O ports make inserting string tips a breeze. The markings on the frame make it a no-brainer.
I dunno, i've just heard that most people string it one piece or string crosses like mains. is 50/50 easy?And you can string it regular two piece??
Yes, you can string any O3 regular two piece, whether it be an Original, Ozone, or Speedport.
Prince actually recommend that you string the O3 Red 2 piece and that the crosses must be strung top down or the warranty is void.
Hmm. I've heard the 50/50 doesn't require the brake. How so?
Prince says 50/50 is an acceptable method on the O Port and Speedport sticks. Yes, 50/50 does not require a brake because the strings will align to the point where the frame and touches the string and keep it straight. I would not advise 50/50 unless you know what you are doing. It requires a starting clamp as well as knowledge on how to start in the center of the stringbed WITHOUT losing tension. Amateur stringers tend to lose a lot of tension on the first pulls when attempting this method.
i strung up an o3 white last week as 2 piece no problem. as others said, the directions r practically written all over the racquet, so its quite easy.
50-50 is definitely The Suck, IMO. But, I've never tried it on an O3. I just know that it eliminates the brake issue.
What do you mean by the "brake issue"....is that using your hip when you pull the crosses?
dude, you jsut string it, make sure the starting knot/clamp is on the side marked for it
without a boomerang the tension's not right, for instance, on a dropweight, if you just let it fall parallel without the boomerang in, the strings will be alot tighter, and much more difficult to clamp.
the difficulty of the hip technique is tolerable over the nasty tight tensions youll get if done improperly.
How is that? Wouldn't the extra string-to-boomerang friction plus the angles they turn around the boomerang decrease the actual tension?
i get what you're saying, but out of experience this is what happens. the strings average about 3 lbs tighter without the tool. it makes no sense to me either, but this is what has happened to me.
In my experience if you don't have a brake, you NEED the boomerang. If you use the hip method then you can still string it, but the consistency will be non existent.
Other than that, yeah they are probably the easiest frames to string because they practically have all stringing instructions printed on them.
I have an X-2 that I string my O3's with. The method I have adapted for stringing them is to put the clamp in place on the strings as I am actually tensioning them. The Gamma clamps are so bulky that I don't even have to hold them in place, as they will generally stay put on their own as I add tension. Then when the tension is correct, the clamp is already where it needs to be and all I have to do is "clamp it" closed. I use this method for all pulls where a boomerang would typically be used.
I have found this way to work best for me because I don't have a boomerang tool, and the X-2 is too light for the "hip brake" method to work because I don't have a real stand for it as I just place it on a little table when I string. I'm sure this method may not be a good as using the boomerang tool, but I figure that it is definitely better than tensioning without anything at all holding the strings in place. Besides, as long as I can accurately reproduce the same ending results that is all I am after anyways.
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