> Also I note you were playing with the tension knob a bit. Were you just altering tension on certain strings?
Yes indeed, as I switch side a lot less than with a two-clamps machine, the frame is more bended at times, and this affects the evenness of tension.
So I found out that by adding/substracting a few half-Kilograms here and there, I can actually compensate very well and have nearly no work to do to equilibrate the mains (as I do at 10:25 in the video).
This is really for the fastidious stringer as I'm not even able to demonstrate that having a perfectly evenly tensioned frame is needed to play well, but I just can't help doing it !
The templates that I use to change tension on some mains are actually pasted in the Youtube video summary, just click on "more" to see them. Beware: it's in kilograms.
Also, I explained a lot of things with subtitles in the video, so you might want to enable them !
Oh, also, something I didn't realize until I read an old user manual : there's actually a polarity on the machine, so you can't mount the racket in both directions.
There's a schematic drawn on both mounting posts to show where the top and the bottom of the frame should be, but it's easy to overlook them as being just decorative.. it looks like a yellow-on-grey "(" at one end, and ")=" at the other end to respectively mean the top and the bottom of the frame.
When mounting, I just try to be careful to center perfectly the sides of the frame into the v-shaped yellow pieces of the 4 holding arms.
It's easy to have only the bottom yellow pieces touching the frame and that isn't good enough.
So basically, the racket shouldn't rest directly on the side arms, but be suspended by the two pieces at 12 and 6 o'clock, so that it is centered in the head of the arms.
Not sure I explained this well enough, sorry...
Also, it is not recommended to mount too tightly. The mount points at 6 and 12 should just hold the frame, and not bend it at all. The side arms should just barely touch the frame (but evenly and everywhere).