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-   -   Need to string a Prince O3 (http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=448053)

robow7 12-12-2012 10:30 PM

Need to string a Prince O3
 
Hey guys, I need to string a Prince O3 white. I don't have a locking table and nor do I have a boom-a-rang tool. I thought I read once that if I start my crosses ( 2 piece) in the middle of the frame and work out, that the unique angle of the string as pulled won't be a problem. Is that right or do you have other suggestions. The only other one I did, I used a long socket to space between the strings as I pulled in a few instances and it was a royal pain in the butt. If you do start in the middle and work out, is it better to complete the top or the bottom of the racquet first. As always, thanks for your help.

robow7 12-12-2012 10:58 PM

Ok, did a search and came up with a 2 piece 50/50 method youtube video but with the clamps that I have, I don't think it will be easy to do 2 up and then 2 down.
Is there really a problem with stringing all the top crosses and then all the bottoms.

Lakers4Life 12-12-2012 10:58 PM

You'll need a starting clamp to do 50/50 crosses.

Wikky 12-13-2012 12:57 AM

I was about to say just hold it down but It sounds like you have a drop weight and that would be difficult. If you don't simply hold the racquet in place while applying tension with one hand. Once it finishes pulling hold with one hand and clamp with another, THEN release the tension and THEN let go.

I've heard a lot of people say how BAD this is for the racquet. I'm very doubtful of this since its no different than what is happening when applying a table break.

Irvin 12-13-2012 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robow7 (Post 7060597)
Ok, did a search and came up with a 2 piece 50/50 method youtube video but with the clamps that I have, I don't think it will be easy to do 2 up and then 2 down.
Is there really a problem with stringing all the top crosses and then all the bottoms.

You must have swivel clamps. 2 up and 2 down is how I was told by Pete at Prince is the correct way to do it. But I have a question, if you string all the top first how do you hold the bottom center string?

A socket? You have got to be kidding, how do you get it to stay in? When I first started stringing O3s I used an extension either 3/8 or 1/2 depending on the spacing of the crosses. Now when I string one piece I use a loop of braided nylon string. Put the loop in the port below the string you are going to tension, under the string you want to tension, then use the tail of the loop to go over the string you want to tension, and through the loop. You'll be surprised how easy it is to hold the string in the correct position.

IMO 2p 50/50 is the best method as it is the only method that provides a balanced tension on the top and bottom crosses of the racket. BUT I have strung standard rackets with the 2p 50/50 and can't tell the difference.

COPEY 12-13-2012 04:13 AM

In my opinion this is the best mothod to use if you don't have a decent brake. Take your racquet with you to the local hardware store and sample several s-hooks, see which one fits the best. Then simply watch the video; it's pretty self-explantory. While I'm a proponent of having at least one starting clamp, for this method you don't need one. All it'll cost you is about $.22 (if that).

robow7 12-13-2012 07:24 AM

Appreciate all the replies and
Yes, I have a starting clamp and Yes, I have fixed clamps that swivel but must remain on their respective side. Drop weight with clutch.

As to using a deep well socket, I used a small piece of masking tape folded over to hold it in place for a few seconds while pulling so it wouldn't hurt the frames finish and I could find the right diameter by selecting the proper sized socket. It worked but felt there had to be a better way.

I'm a little concerned about the s-hook hurting the finish, am I being paranoid here?

jim e 12-13-2012 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robow7 (Post 7061149)

I'm a little concerned about the s-hook hurting the finish, am I being paranoid here?

I do not use the S hook, as I have a good brake system with my machine, but... if I were to use the S hook, I would use a little heat shring tubing over the hook so there should be no issue of hurting the finish.

zapvor 12-13-2012 08:06 AM

i tend to just use my body.

Topspin101 12-13-2012 08:17 AM

Call Prince and order Boomerang tool. You will have it in a few days. Problem solved....

Rabbit 12-13-2012 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Topspin101 (Post 7061238)
Call Prince and order Boomerang tool. You will have it in a few days. Problem solved....

That's what I did. They were very responsive.

COPEY 12-13-2012 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robow7 (Post 7061149)
I'm a little concerned about the s-hook hurting the finish, am I being paranoid here?

Nope, fair question, and I did exactly what Rabbit had suggested shortly after I happened upon this method, but truth be told, the ultra smooth finish of the s-hook worked great without applying heat shrink. Specifically, there was no damage to the finish without the "protective cover". My son has two Ozone 7s and my wife has an Ozone 4. I strung all three...and mind you, they're used, so they have more than their fair share of nicks/scratches to begin with...but I strung them without any damage from the s-hook, and again, this was without the heatshrink.

Still, since I string for others, I applied the heatshrink as a precaution. Yep, you can call Prince and have them send you a boomerang - they work fine. But when you want/need to string a ported racquet now, the hardware store is a much quicker option. :-)

mikeler 12-13-2012 10:23 AM

I've been happy using the 50/50 method with my Exo Tours the last month. As stated above, there are a number of ways to accomplish the goal without a good brake.

bluegrass_stringer 12-13-2012 04:48 PM

Obviously a machine with a brake to lock the turntable is ideal. Once you get past the first half of the crosses, the string will correctly rest against the O ports during tensioning. So, you only need to worry about the first half or so of crosses. It is a little bit of a pain, but you can use your body to hold the racquet as you tension. This works fine for standup machines : if you have a tabletop one, I am not sure if this is feasible. If you string lots of O3/EXO racquets on your machine, then the other methods mentioned here will make things easier.

robow7 12-13-2012 10:09 PM

Well I couldn't wait for the boomarang tool to make it here so just strung 2 piece 50/50 method which worked out easily enough, only one cross had really any angle on it and it wasn't too bad.

The hardest part on that racquet was getting a soft thin multifilment string NRG2 17 gauge to get it back thru a hole covered by an existing string. Those grooves are so beveled in there, it makes it tough to move the existing string so you can get your string end thru there without mashing it, becoming soft and useless. Wouldn't be a problem with most mono or stiffer strings but that was tough. Any suggestions to alter the grommet to make next time easier like really pressing an awl into it.?
Thanks again for your tips.

Irvin 12-14-2012 03:20 AM

robow7 that is always going to be a problem you run into with the 2p 50/50. Your problem is the outside main ties off at 8H which gives you four blocked holed at the top of the racket (7h $ 9h.) assuming you have enough string you could pre weave the top 9 crosses with a loop large enough at the 9th cross to pull tension and a tail just long enough to stick out 7h. Finish your mains and start you crosses with no blocked holes at top.

There are a lot of other methods but for me cutting an angle on the string and using paraffin wax for lube seems to work good. I look at the side of the racket for the largest gap between the string and frame and try to turn the string so the point is on that side. Pushing short section with bend nose pliers works for me. Try not to cut too long of a point as it weakens the string and when the point gets flimsy cut a new one. Try getting a scrap piece of string and see if applying a little heat will help to stiffen the string. You may try a drop of superglue on the tip then wipe it off to let it dry. Acetone tackles the glue off your finger.

mikeler 12-14-2012 04:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robow7 (Post 7062567)
Well I couldn't wait for the boomarang tool to make it here so just strung 2 piece 50/50 method which worked out easily enough, only one cross had really any angle on it and it wasn't too bad.

The hardest part on that racquet was getting a soft thin multifilment string NRG2 17 gauge to get it back thru a hole covered by an existing string. Those grooves are so beveled in there, it makes it tough to move the existing string so you can get your string end thru there without mashing it, becoming soft and useless. Wouldn't be a problem with most mono or stiffer strings but that was tough. Any suggestions to alter the grommet to make next time easier like really pressing an awl into it.?
Thanks again for your tips.

Irvin's tips are all spot on. I think you'll find that with more restrings, it gets easier to get those soft multis through the blocked holes. When I first bought my Exos, they were not fun getting through there. Sometimes I cheated and used a small allen wrench as an awl (since my awl is bent).

PrincessAdam 12-14-2012 07:55 AM

Its not hard. You can just hold the racquet with your body. Or get anything to stick in it really

robow7 12-14-2012 08:16 AM

Thanks Irvin for the tips!

Has anyone ever tried when putting their mains in at those critical points to insert a small length of fine kevlar thread under the string so later on when you do have to come back to insert your final crosses thru those blocked holes, you could use that thread now under the main to pull up on it which would open the gap and then once done, just pull the thread out? Unless someone has reservations about this, I might try it some time, as would be very easy and not time consuming to do.

Irvin 12-14-2012 01:03 PM

You don't need Kevlar you could use any string any gauge.


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