I agree with weaving one ahead on the crosses before tensioning is a real time saver. It also reduces friction on the mains. I find that pulling the string almost all the way across on the second weave is what saves the most friction. Just leave a loop of string outside the frame that is long enough to reach the tension head. Push the first string as close to the previously tensioned string as possible before you pull tension on the first untensioned string. This helps keep the string straighter when you tension it and mis-weaves are much easier to spot before you pull tension on that string. The weaving technique that seems to work best for me is one hand above and one below pushing the string at an angle across the stringbed with my index fingers. This takes advantage of the stagger in the mains and makes the cross easier to push through. Be especially careful on the last string at the head or throat. This is the most common place for a mis-weave to occur. I hold my knots tight with my parallel jaw pliers while releasing the clamps. Then I release the pliers. For avoiding problems with blocked holes, insert a loop of scrap string under the blocking string before you tension it. This is usually where mains are skipped and where cross strings will be installed later. Then when you get to that hole, use your fingers or pliers to pull on the loop of string to pull the blocking string out of the way. Remove it when you are finished. On a two piece job, when you start the crosses, weave the second string first and then weave back for the first string. This saves pulling all of the string through the frame on the second cross. If you have a starting clamp, you can avoid using a starting knot on the first cross string. Just weave the second and then first cross and pull out a length of string on the outside of the frame long enough to reach the tension head. Then clamp off on the outside of the frame with the starting clamp. After you've weaved and tensioned 3 o 4 more crosses, you can come back and retension the first string, remove the starting clamp and put one of the machine's clamps on and tie off the string with a regular tie-off knot. If your string ends won't stay sharp after cutting them with your cutters, put a drop of super glue or clear nail polish on them. Clean your clamps regularly with isopropyl alcohol or acetone free nail polish remover. Learn some around the world patterns so you can string racquets whose mains end at the throat one piece while avoiding stringing bottom up. Straighten the crosses as you go. It will be easier than trying to straighten them after your're done and the stringbed will retain more of the reference tension. Pay attention while you're stringing. Try to be as consistent as possible. Be consistent on how long you let the string sit on the tension head before you clamp off. Save your expletives for stringing polyester. You'll need them! Never leave a partially strung racquet with tension on the strings. Cut the strings out of a frame with one broken string. Don't let it sit with a broken string waiting to be restrung. Never leave your racquets in the trunk of your car or the back seat on a hot day.