Quote:
Originally Posted by Bud
I tried something different to try and mimic removing the last couple of mains on each side and top/bottom crosses.
I strung the racquet like usual at 60# (Isospeed Baseline poly on a dropweight machine) but didn't tension the last 2 mains on each side or the first 3 and last 3 crosses... to try and avoid the problem of tie-off locations.
I also sprayed the stringbed with silicone lubricant on both sides after finishing.
The average DT in the active part of the stringbed, 5 hours post stringing, is still about 42 DT. The DT of the outer mains is less than 20.
Will report back if I feel any difference after hitting with the frame tomorrow 
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I took SBS readings to discover if the stringbed loses any more tension than normal... i.e. equalizing when not tying off. In my experience, a stringbed doesn't equalize when using various tensions. I conducted an experiment awhile back where I marked a straight line across the entire stringbed... the line was still straight weeks later... none of the strings had moved through the grommets over time. |
Look forward to hearing how well that works.
I'm really appreciating the frames that I've tried this "center stringing only" method on.
Unfortunately, I don't think I can use the method on my O3 Red because the Red is so darn open-patterned that it feels soft an springy with Kevlar/poly in the 70s. And if I go up to 80 lbs, I suspect the poly will get fragile.
I'm thinking about picking up a BLX Blade, since I think the method would be most effective on a dense-patterned frame where I don't need to string very tight.