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Old 08-01-2011, 11:49 PM   #30
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,394

Originally Posted by Bud View Post
I tried something different to try and mimic removing the last couple of mains on each side and top/bottom crosses.

I strung the racquet like usual at 60# (Isospeed Baseline poly on a dropweight machine) but didn't tension the last 2 mains on each side or the first 3 and last 3 crosses... to try and avoid the problem of tie-off locations.

I also sprayed the stringbed with silicone lubricant on both sides after finishing.

The average DT in the active part of the stringbed, 5 hours post stringing, is still about 42 DT. The DT of the outer mains is less than 20.

Will report back if I feel any difference after hitting with the frame tomorrow

- -

I took SBS readings to discover if the stringbed loses any more tension than normal... i.e. equalizing when not tying off. In my experience, a stringbed doesn't equalize when using various tensions. I conducted an experiment awhile back where I marked a straight line across the entire stringbed... the line was still straight weeks later... none of the strings had moved through the grommets over time.
Look forward to hearing how well that works.

I'm really appreciating the frames that I've tried this "center stringing only" method on.

Unfortunately, I don't think I can use the method on my O3 Red because the Red is so darn open-patterned that it feels soft an springy with Kevlar/poly in the 70s. And if I go up to 80 lbs, I suspect the poly will get fragile.

I'm thinking about picking up a BLX Blade, since I think the method would be most effective on a dense-patterned frame where I don't need to string very tight.
POG OS. 368 SW, 12.54" balance, 21.0 MgR/I.
Problend kevlar 16 / Prestretched SPPP 17, 72/50 lbs.
travlerajm is offline   Reply With Quote