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Old 06-11-2012, 12:08 PM   #2
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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Now rotate the racquet. Tension (in this example) LM1. When the proper tension has been reached, using the FIRST clamp you set (just follow the tensioned string around to the first clamp you come to), clamp LM1 to RM1 as close as possible to the frame on the side of the tensioner. Once clamped, lift the bar to release tension.

Continue to lace and pull tension on EACH main, alternating left and right as to equalize tension on each side of the frame, never getting more than two ahead. Remember to count the grommets for any main skips (See the pattern. These are grommets through which mains do not pass and are intended for crosses.).

When you complete the tensioning of the mains, find the grommets where you tie off the mains with finishing knots around strings called the anchor strings. Grommets where you tie off are usually flared (appear larger than other grommets). Note: If you need help with a finishing knot, see the "Parnell Knot" video at There is also a video there on tightening finishing knots and the Parnell. After you've tied the knots, you may release the clamps. There are a variety of knots you can use, including the double half-hitch and the Pro knot.

Now, you will tie on the crosses with a starting knot. A starting knot is used as it is designed to not slip through the grommet. Do not use a finishing knot in its place (unless you use the "starting crosses with a starting clamp" method noted below). Again, for help, see for the videos on starting crosses with a starting knot, and in his example, he uses the "bulky" starting knot. Another is shown as well. There are, of course, others. Find the grommet at which you tie a starting knot, as noted in the pattern. If you have a starting clamp, you can also use that method and later tie off with a finishing knot instead of a starting knot. Again, there is a video available.

Note: After you tension the first cross (and clamp), the only thing holding the clamp in place are the mains. Once, you get past the first cross, you will be clamping two crosses together. Also, you will only be clamping one string when you have only the first cross tensioned. Insert a "dummy" piece of string in the other side of the clamp. As you go along, you may use both clamps, with the trailing clamp acting as a backup in the event you release tension on the clamp placed most recently.

Weave under and over, fanning the string (moving it back and forth as you pull) as you pull it through to avoid friction burns. Again, there are Yulitle videos on pulling crosses and cross weaving. Weave one ahead when doing your crosses (See explanation below in post #3.). Tension each cross. Lay any strings on the outside of the frame parallel (Don't cross over like an "X."). Yulitle also has a video regarding getting through blocked grommets and using the Gamma Pathfinder Awl that comes with the machine.

When you've completed the crosses, find the grommet where you tie a finishing knot. Again, a knot like the Parnell will be fine.

Hopefully, you've just completed stringing your racquet. Carefully remove the racquet from the supports.
I like to count the clicks when adjusting the clamps (Gamma Composite Floating) for use for certain strings/gauges so I know where to set them for a particular string. If using the same string all of the time, it's not an issue. I open the clamps up (lift the lever away from the clamp body), turn the knob clockwise until it stops, counting the clicks to determine the former clamp "setting" (tightness) for a particular string, rather than guessing. Turn it counterclockwise to reset the clamp to its original setting (remember the # of clicks). You'll get the hang of them. Focus on getting enough grip without being too tight. They shouldn't be too hard to open either.

The clamp "tightness" may change with different strings, even if the gauges are listed as the same. You can figure that out as noted here for whatever your string is and keep it in mind when changing the clamps for other strings, if you do so. First of all, the clamps shouldn't be hard to clamp on or remove--the lever should be fairly easy to open and close. Just as a general number for string, all the way from the position I noted above (open clamp and turn CW until knob stops), and then turn back CCW (counting clicks) might be in the 30-something clicks range or so (-X for "thicker"/+X "thinner" generally). Test on a sample of string to be sure the lever can be closed and you are not "crushing" the string. If they need to be tightened, as you think they may be slipping, remember, right is tight.


Rotational Gripper: How to Properly Wrap the String to Tension

I'd stress the fact that "drop weight" means, "let it down slowly weight," not DROP. And never push the bar down.

When securing the racquet with the hold down plates, turn the knobs evenly and with only enough pressure to hold the racquet securely.

Users will find it easier to turn the ratcheting gripper so the jaws are on top and about parallel with the table/support surface. The ratchet allows movement in only one direction. The drum of the rotational gripper only turns clockwise.

There are three scales for choosing a tension: With the bar leaning to the left (resting position) when looking at the machine from the front are kilograms (numbered 10-40). With the bar leaning to the right when looking at the front of the machine, as when tensioning, are the pounds (to 90). "Below" that goes to 26, which are pounds for badminton, used after removing the larger part of the weight using the hex key.

There have been questions about this before, but the bar being slightly above or below horizontal is acceptable, as noted earlier.

The weight should consist of both parts for stringing tennis racquets. The knob should be on the side that faces the gripper. Tension is set on the tension bar by aligning the side (face) of the weight closest the string gripper with the appropriate number (tension) on the bar. Make sure you are looking at the correct scale!

Turntable posts should angle away from the center of the turntable (\___/).

When the bar is close to horizontal, but still below what might be an acceptable angle, while holding the ratcheting string gripper firmly with your left hand, only lift the bar to go a click of the ratchet (or two at most) to avoid getting the bar too far above horizontal.

Each person may want to determine where he or she can position the bar before inserting the string in the gripper for little to possibly no use (sometimes) of the ratchet. This will depend on the string.

A little trick to get the threaded support posts for the racquet hold down plates between the two center grommets: Place short "U" shaped pieces of string (stiffer string works best) that have been cut out of a racquet (usually has nice bends already) through the grommets at the top and bottom, and then place the racquet down on the supports. Screw the plates/plate knobs down. Then remove the old string guides. You can't miss getting the racquet placed properly so the threaded posts don't block the grommets. It also makes it easier to count grommets to points on the frame that will help you find the center.

Here is one of my works of art previously used to describe a racquet pattern to a new stringer (in this case he had a Yonex 001 mid).
If you don't know your racquet well, I recommend thinking it out in a way similar to what is shown below.

Note where the start loop is located, the direction of the lacing and weaving, the weave pattern, the main skips, and the tie offs.

Pure Drive Roddick example (two-piece):

Head Liquidmetal 8

Note: Some manufacturers and sites use different methods for counting grommets. Some say, "TOP" instead of "HEAD" or "BOTTOM" instead of "THROAT."

(Continued in Post #3.)
Still with the Head LM Radical MP/OS. The dying art of the 1HBH. Gamma X-2. Would a higher-end machine get me more forum "cred"? ;)

Last edited by Radicalized; 08-21-2014 at 10:38 PM.
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