Q & A
I need to learn basic techniques. Where do I go?
If racquet is strung:
Cutting Strings out of a Racket
1. Mounting - 6-Point (No YU vid for 2-point--Simple.)
2. Swivel Clamps - Use and Operation (No YU vid for floating clamps pertaining to these machines specifically--Simple.)
3. Getting Mains Started - Two-piece (Various methods available. This is different for floating clamps. See instructions above.)
4. How to Start Your Mains
5. Parnell Knot (To tie off--one knot of several to choose)--see #6
6. How to tighten your knots (shows Parnell in vid)
7. Bulky (starting) knot (there are others on the site to try)
8. Starting Crosses with a Starting Knot (Note: YULitle weaves his second cross first in the video, then weaves the first cross and puts string through the grommet where he will tie the starting knot around the main. Then he ties the knot, tightens it, and pulls tension.)
9. Intro to Main Skips and Cross Weaving
10. How to Pass String thru Blocked Grommets
11. Why to Pull Hard Weaves Twice
12. Weaving Crosses
13. Parnell Knot (To tie off--one of several)
14. How to tighten your knots
15. Mounting - 6-Point (remove the racquet properly)
say thanks, "Yulitle."
X-2 Videos (Similar to Progression 200)
And thanks to "Almerickso": Videos on the X-2 (Same working parts as Progression 200).
See videos 1-5 regarding the X-2.
Videos are also available by members like "Drakulie" (www.youtube.com/user/drakulie
), and of course, "Irvin" (www.youtube.com/user/Mr10sStringer
), who has created excellent videos regarding the 50/50 pattern, Prince "port" racquets, and ease-of-stringing techniques, to name a few.
Richard Parnell "Parnell Knot" video (http://youtu.be/lj8ITKjnfHc
Also, there is this mighty powerful forum tool called SEARCH.
What other tools might I need while stringing?
Here is a short list:
Additional pliers, such as bent nose--pulling/tying
Micro flush cutters-- fine cutting
Starting clamp (See Yulitle video regarding starting crosses with a starting clamp)--starting crosses, pulling string and tying, "jumping" when string not long enough to reach tensioner (use with additional piece of string), some "specialized" racquet patterns, and backing up another clamp when starting mains
There are other gadgets, such as ones to measure tension and straighten strings. These are not "stringing" tools that would be a helpful upgrade to those provided (as noted in the beginning of the post) with the machine to be able to complete a job. I will consider those another topic. My intention is simply for you to get the racquet strung. Also, brands and price/quality issues are not the intent of this thread--SEARCH.
Weave one ahead? One what?
This is good. Double-pulling is bad (tensioning two strings at once).
Explanation: As I've previously noted, you should weave one ahead when doing crosses, which means, weave the second and tension the first, weave the third and tension the second, and so on. This reduces time to weave and decreases some of the friction. Just leave a big enough "loop" so you have a long enough run of string to pull tension and to reach the tension head/gripper. Image below as example:
FULL CREDIT ACKNOWLEDGEMENT: The following image is from "YULitle" on this TT page:
08-24-2008, 02:36 PM #19
Hall Of Fame
How do I avoid misweaves?
Clearly, you could spend lots of time checking the under/over pattern of your crosses. A quick tip is if the cross starts under
a main, it should end over
a main, and vice versa, as long as you didn't do two (an even number) misweaves. Remember, a pattern will appear, as an example:
One-piece, two-piece? Two knots, four knots?
stringing involves a single
length of string. You will measure a length of string for one side of the racquet to complete the mains and then tie off. This is called the short side for obvious reasons (knot one of two). On the other side, you will also complete your mains, but you do not tie off. This is called the long side, where you need enough string to complete half of the mains and all of the crosses. You then go on to complete the crosses and tie off (knot two of two). You still alternate when installing mains on the left and right to equalize tension on the frame. Two-piece
stringing involves cutting separate
lengths of string for the mains and crosses. You use half of the main string for each side of the racquet, tying off on the left and right (knots one and two of four knots). The start loop is the center point. You use the second piece of string to tie on the crosses, weave and tension, and tie off the crosses (knots three and four of four knots). Check the racquet pattern for which to use (Sometimes you have a choice.), and measure the string appropriately.
How does this thing work?
It's just a bar and a metal weight. Huh? See http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=170414
(Dropweight physics thread by "lethalfang," et al.)
I have to keep ratcheting/the string is stretching, and the bar is still below level, or the bar won't drop to level.
Strings like synthetic gut or multis will stretch. Some will stretch A LOT. Assuming you have the strings clamped securely, if the bar is below level, you will have to keep holding the ratcheting gripper and lift the bar until you get it close to level. Strings like polys stretch very little. For these, start the bar closer to level before inserting the string in the jaws of the gripper and then drop to tension. You will learn how to do this for different strings. String characteristics vary widely.
So, where do I position the bar when inserting the string in the gripper?
It depends on the string and in some cases, your preference. It can be the resting position, holding it closer to horizontal at an appropriate angle for the string characteristics, or down, in which case you ratchet up and drop. Again, see the note about strings stretching.
Do I have to clean my stringer and clamps?
Hopefully, your stringer is stored in a clean and dry place, and you dust it now and then. There may come a time when residue builds up on the clamping surfaces (jaws/clamps). The common answer to this problem is to use, for example, a pipe cleaner or shoe lace, and clean
toothbrush (all soft
items), along with isopropyl alcohol.
How do/can I store my machine?
If you use it frequently and have the space, leaving it in place with a cover (to keep the dust off) is fine. However, you may choose to put it away when not in use. Aside from cardboard boxes, it is difficult to find a "tool box-type" container in which it will fit without disassembling it completely. Although large, personally I use a Sterilite 1842 Footlocker to hold the stringer and associated tools and supplies. When storing the stringer, it is best to lower the weight toward the gripper or remove it entirely, as to avoid any weight-related accidents. Force=mass X acceleration. Also, I actually store my clamps in a see-through, labeled plastic pencil box. My tools are either in the drawer (of an X-2) or in a small tool box. I keep stringing information in the locker, too.
Do I have to calibrate my machine?
No. Unlike machines that use springs and other parts that can change with time and use, there is nothing that changes with the dropweight. There is nothing designed into the machine itself for the user to modify. You simply move the weight along the bar to change tension. Gravity does the rest.
A dropweight machine is a constant pull machine?
Yes. A dropweight continues to pull tension and does not "lock out." The string will continue to stretch until the bar stops dropping, and you ratchet and raise the bar so that it maintains a level position. Then you clamp. The machine pulls to your desired tension.
How do I string a badminton racquet?
First, remove the large part of the weight using the 5mm hex key, leaving the smaller section with the knob. Use the scale on the bar, as noted above, for badminton. Smaller badminton floating clamps are also available from Gamma and other manufacturers. String as per the recommendations for the racquet.
I've heard about stringing methods "X," "Y," and "Z." Should I use them?
This thread isn't about special stringing techniques. Personally, I'm of the opinion that standard stringing methods are more than adequate. Just don't "rush," use proper techniques, and try to be consistent. That is your job in a nutshell. Using a pattern, and you can do the search, like the 50/50 may apply to a racquet like a Prince "port-type" because the racquet itself may require special "handling." Stringing at lower tensions than what is noted as the recommended range on your racquet is simply reducing the tension, and the rest of the stringing procedure can remain the same. This is more common today with poly strings, as they are already stiff. The science of certain string types and tensions is not in the scope of my intent for the thread. Learn the basics first, and then move on to the "latest" and perhaps, or perhaps not, "greatest."
(Continued in Post #5.)