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Old 10-04-2012, 10:40 AM   #21
LeeD
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 30,267
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My idea of surfing.... after surfing 26 years, 5 days a week....
Checking it out, 10 guys in the water, picking 2 waves out of 6 wave sets.
Paddling out, you punch thru 37 rows of whitewater, before you make it to the channel (OceanBeachSF beachbreak), then barely escape thru 3 set waves that break just outside the channel.
In the lineup, stinkeyes from 8 surfers, 2 are your old friends who greet you warmly. 10 more paddle out to the lineup.
Going for the first wave, after sitting outside waiting thru 7 sets, 3 guys turn around in front of you, while you're just about to glide in. 2 pull out, one drops in and goes straight off adoph, falling off the back of his board.
You push thru another 3 sets, or 20 rows of whitewater.
You sit outside while the tide goes too high, the sets don't break outside anymore, and the pack disintegrates.
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