Yeah, surfing is more a complete waste of time taking all your ambition, money, drive, and lifestyle away from the mainstream into a lifestyle of itself.
Nothing like having life's goals dashed within a couple months of good waves.
I guess that's why they have Indo and ElSalvador....destination spots that require lots of money, commitment, and focus.
I just have problems ever considering Teahupoo, Shipsterns, Ghosttrees, or some of those rather nasty spots. I have photographs of Ghost Tree from 1992, before anyone surfed there, at well over 28', taken from my bike ride around the 17 mile drive.
Some photos of S Farallone Islands, ChimneyRock, and Goat Roak would blow any surfer's mind.