Originally Posted by J011yroger
I didn't want to derail another thread, so I figured I would ask in your own.
Is there a reason you prefer 18g Kevlar?
Honestly, there's not a lot of difference between 18g, 17g, and 16g in the way they play.
The most noticeable difference for me is the weight. A half-bed of 18g kevlar only weighs about 5 grams, while a half-bed of 16g weighs about 7g. To match the same swing dynamics, I need to add 2g at the 3-&-9 spot to make the frame strung with 18g mains swing like the one with 16g. Mass at 3-&-9 is a little more "efficient" than weight even distributed throughout the stringbed for adding power, spin, and stability. So that's a minor advantage for the thinner gauge. If I skip this mass matching step, then the thinner kevlar will feel tighter and harsher than the thicker one, but that's misleading. When I mass match, they feel similar.
When I was stringing my OS frames at 70+ lbs, I didn't have the option of using thinner gauges, because they would snap in a few hours. But at the lower tensions I've been using with slippery crosses in smaller headsize frames lately, the durability of the kevlar is no longer the limiting factor in stringbed life.
For other strings like poly (or even syn gut, but to a lesser extent), where tension stability limits the stringbed life, I prefer thicker gauges, which hold tension better than thinner ones. I just ordered a reel of Monogut ZX natural in 16g, since I'm liking my current setup in my Blade so much. As an aside, I suspect that the reason your frames were cracking with your high-tension kevlar/poly hybrid is that the kevlar holds tension so much better than the poly - within a few hours of hitting, the frame will squash a lot with that setup, and the more it squashes, the the more it stretches the poly, which in turn allows it to squash more - a destructive death spiral for your frames. You might as well of put them in a vise.