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Old 06-28-2006, 10:44 AM   #2
diredesire
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Default Painting racquets

NOTICE: All information contained within the sticky (namely the painting guide) is for informational purposes ONLY. I, nor TW is responsible for what you do with this information. If you happen to ruin a racquet, don't complain to me! It's just a loose guideline, do your research and exercise common sense! With that said, good luck!

Q: How can I create my own custom paint job?
A: This is a question that is asked quite a bit, so I thought I would cover some of the basics that you need...

Tools/Materials:
  • Well lit area, free of dust, dirt, grime, wind.
  • Spray Cans of the colors of your choice
  • Spray Can of primer
  • Rubber gloves
  • Plastic Spoon
  • Spare rag (use one that you're willing to throw away)
  • Stencils
  • Sandpaper ranging from 300 - 1200 grit get wetsand if possible
  • Paint Stripper
  • Masking tape
  • Time, and patience
Process:
  1. Remove the bumper guards, grommets, grips, and rubber grip band from the racquet. You should have nothing left on it. All weights, etc should be taken off.
  2. Tape off the handle with masking tape.
  3. Read the instructions on all the spray cans, especially the paint stripper. Paint strippers are typically very active chemicals, and can seriously harm, injure, or even kill you.
  4. Now that you've read the instructions of your paint stripper, apply the paint stripper to your racquet per the instructions.
  5. Wearing the rubber gloves to protect your skin, carefully scrape off the paint using either the plastic spoon (the spoon may melt, be careful!) or sandpaper.
  6. Once you've got most of the paint gone, wipe down the racquet with a water moistened rag.
  7. Let the racquet dry.
  8. Once the racquet is dry, take out the roughest sand paper you have. This piece of sandpaper is NOT used for hard sanding, it is used to break up/remove as much of the existing primer material left on the racquet without digging into the graphite. Once you've carefully sanded away (using water, if you have wetsand paper) all the remaining primer material, let the racquet dry. If needed, move up to 400/600 grit to remove any tough spots.
  9. At this point it would be wise to review the instructions on the spray cans. I like spraying light, light, light coats from 12" or more away, this ends up in a more even coat, but it wastes quite a bit of paint.
  10. Spray the entire racquet down with primer. This allows all paint to have a common surface to stick to, which results in a nice, even coat. It also gives a common background color, so colors will all show up the same. (note: If the coat of primer you have put on is too light, don't worry, you'll have to put down at least 2 coats.)
  11. After the first coat, there will be some inconsistencies in the primer. Here is where the fun (and patience) comes in. First, let the primer dry, this can take a few hours. Many primers will dry within an hour, but I like to let them harden a little before doing any work on it. After the racquet/primer is dry, take out the 400-600 grit (depending on inconsistencies) sandpaper. On any bumps, blotches, drips, etc, you'll want to use the sandpaper to grind/buff them away. You want a nice, flat finish. Use water as a lubricant, also, this is the point where you will be NEEDING wet-sand sandpaper.
  12. Once the racquet has been sanded down, and the finish is consistent. Let the racquet dry. Once the racquet is dry, you need to put ANOTHER coat of primer down. Remember, use lighter coats, it will actually save you time in the long run. Keep repeating the primer/sanding steps until you have a nice, smooth, flat finish. Preparation is the KEY to ending up with a nice paint job.
  13. Once the racquet is primed, dry, and ready to roll, You can begin the spray painting. This is the part where you get creative. If you want to do multiple colors in your racquet scheme, mask off the parts you don't want painted, and do a single color at a time. The method is the same, paint a light coat, sand inconsistencies off. Paint another coat, sand inconsistencies off. You'll want about 3 light coats for a good finish. If you are doing multiple colors, remove the masking, mask off the colored parts, and continue. The process is going to take a LONG time, but be patient, if you take your time and don't rush, your end product will look great!

For more in depth information, read these guides on spraypainting. They are computer related, but the same ideas apply here:
http://www.xoxideforums.com/painting...-painting.html
http://www.3dgameman.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41252

User Lakoste has suggested these excellent guides:
http://case-mods.linear1.org/case-mo...r-case-part-1/
http://www.mnpctech.com/case-mod-pai...od-how-to.html

User blabit's own paint job story:
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showt...=1#post1045671
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