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Reload this Page Gamma II 200 Stringing Machine Tutorial
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Old 05-20-2012, 05:57 PM   #1
andrewpmast
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Post Gamma II 200 Stringing Machine Tutorial

I wrote up a tutorial on how to string a tennis racket with the Gamma II 200 Stringing Machine. It's a relatively inexpensive machine that pays for itself with all the free strings that are included with your purchase. I wanted to share all the pointers and things I picked up as I've used it, particularly things I messed up and learned the hard way!

There are some decent YouTube videos that go over how to string and I'd love to do a video but I don't have the equipment. If you're new and nervous, watch the videos on the web and read over this tutorial. If you have any questions or if the tutorial needs some clarification, let me know and I'll help out.

This is a Google doc, https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...gm8vKW_Ws/edit
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:27 AM   #2
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Nice guide, thanks for sharing.
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:28 AM   #3
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Nice guide, thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Took me as long to write it as it did to string the racket, lol
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:17 AM   #4
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I just got this so I will read it when I go to string...
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:59 AM   #5
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Wow... great job Andrew. I like the way you explained the process and mixed in your first hand experiences (what worked well and not so well as you were learning). I also really like your photography.
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Old 05-23-2012, 09:19 AM   #6
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Thanks a lot. I'm thinking of buying an X-2, so this is very helpful.

EDIT: I notice you suggest to string an entire side of the mains before moving to the other side. I have read elsewhere that you should only string about 3 at a time on each side and then switch, so you don't put too much tension on one half of the racquet. I have also read that this is more important for 2-point mounting systems.

Thoughts?

Last edited by anubis : 05-23-2012 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 05-24-2012, 04:35 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anubis View Post
Thanks a lot. I'm thinking of buying an X-2, so this is very helpful.

EDIT: I notice you suggest to string an entire side of the mains before moving to the other side. I have read elsewhere that you should only string about 3 at a time on each side and then switch, so you don't put too much tension on one half of the racquet. I have also read that this is more important for 2-point mounting systems.

Thoughts?
This is correct. To the OP, you should alternate stringing the mains on the right and left sides of the racquet to equalize the tension being applied to the frame, never getting two to three ahead of the other side. Then tie off both the left and right. Stringing one side (one half), tying off, and then stringing the other side is a major no-no.

EDIT:
First, I applaud the OP's effort. I skimmed through the guide. This isn't a full technical editing of the guide, or an evaluation of the writing, just a few important things that stuck out.

The OP initially pulls tension on the two center strings (RM & LM 1) and then sets his floating clamp (Gamma composite). He then releases tension. His explanation of this is inaccurate, when all he is doing is setting tension inside the clamp. He then leaves the initial center clamp in place and completes one side of the racquet mains and then the other, as noted above. This is incorrect.

Also, while the OP says he pulls tension on one cross at a time, I believe the OP is confused about the difference between "double pulling" and (perhaps isn't familiar with) "weaving one-ahead." He addresses this issue but not correctly/adequately, depending on your interpretation. A search can be done to find posts regarding these issues.
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Last edited by Radicalized : 05-24-2012 at 05:53 AM.
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Old 06-15-2012, 06:55 AM   #8
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@Radicalized

Thanks for the input. The whole benefit of linking to this google doc is so that I can update it with corrections like the ones you provided. I've really appreciate it if you can review the changes I made.

Page 3 - I discuss and link to the double-pulling technique.

Page 6 - I altered the text to be clear about stringing a few on one side and then switching over.

On page 7, if you see the picture, I was doing a few on one side, then switching and doing a few on the other side. The picture shows that I have done three on each side of the first two. I just wasn't clear about it.

Page 10 - I altered the text for tension on crosses to include the one-ahead method as an option. I also linked to another tennis warehouse discussion on the benefits of weaving one ahead. I personally weave one line, clamp, then weave another and take the furthest clamp and use that. But, I have weaved one ahead before.

If there is any improvement you can find in my edits, let me know. It's all for a good cause!

Thanks again!
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Old 06-15-2012, 06:23 AM   #9
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I used my prog 200 for the first time yesterday. I watched the wrong videos so to get started I was confused. That took about 20 min to figure out how to keep the tension for the first strings (I was watching a tutorial with an expensive non-floating clamp machine).

Anyways, it took me a while (I strung a head youteek with the free gamma syn gut) but was easy enough. Its a lot of labor though.

Also, I bought the extra clamp when I bought the machine but didnt use it at all. When/where would I used the clamp?
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Old 06-16-2012, 01:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cap217 View Post
I used my prog 200 for the first time yesterday. I watched the wrong videos so to get started I was confused. That took about 20 min to figure out how to keep the tension for the first strings (I was watching a tutorial with an expensive non-floating clamp machine).

Anyways, it took me a while (I strung a head youteek with the free gamma syn gut) but was easy enough. Its a lot of labor though.

Also, I bought the extra clamp when I bought the machine but didnt use it at all. When/where would I used the clamp?

Do you mean a "starting clamp"? If yes: Starting crosses (See "Yulitle" (youtube.com/yulitle) video regarding starting crosses with a starting clamp). Pulling string and tying (see "Yulitle" video on tightening knots). "Jumping" when string not long enough to reach tensioner (Use with additional piece of string. See http://www.keohi.com/tennis/misc/startingclamp.htm). Some "specialized" racquet patterns. Backing up another clamp when starting mains when forces are the greatest on a clamp.
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Last edited by Radicalized : 06-16-2012 at 01:45 AM.
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Old 06-16-2012, 12:24 AM   #11
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Again, I applaud your efforts. I don't want to be "that" forum member who goes around playing "editor." My only intention was to be sure very key points were clear to new stringers for the safety of their frames and quality of the stringjob. No disrespect or so forth is intended.

I can give you a brief summary of what could be improvements because you asked. I'm not intending here to tell you to change your personal writing style.

1. There are some spelling errors (such as "guage" instead of "gauge" in the "calibration" section).
2. The starting method to which you link at **** seems to be a method for using fixed clamps (similar to that shown by a member, "Yulitle," in one of his videos regarding starting mains). That **** guide isn't written particularly well.
3. I'm still not sure about your explanation of starting the mains. What I see you doing is tensioning the center strings (LM1 and RM1) to set the loop against the frame and set the tension inside the clamp. You can probably explain what is happening more accurately.
4. When you talk about the weight being "balanced," I think you should note how the bar should be close to horizontal to achieve proper tension of the string being pulled. I understand what you mean, in regard to the torque to string tension, but new users might just want to be reminded to get the bar to level without pushing it down (adding tension) or holding it up (reducing tension).
5. I think you should clarify for new users that you let the bar down, as they may literally lift it and drop it. New users do all kinds of things. I don't think some bother reading the official manual. I know from forum (and life) experience that you can't say, "No one would do that."
6. In some places, you might want to rewrite some sentences with actual stringing and machine terminology or better describe the situation. For example, someone may not know what you mean by "unity tension."
7. You might want to be more clear by using terminology like, "thread the next main from head to throat, etc.," rather than (copied and pasted) "Thread a string through to the next hold and pull tension on that string." This helps focus the reader.
8. Rather than (copied and pasted) "make sure you’re skipping the right strings," you might want to be more specific and mention the term "main skip" and skipping the "holes/grommets." I only say this for clarity to someone who is a beginner, knowing precisely what to count and skip as they are reading at that point. Tell the reader why they are skipping, if only briefly. New stringers appear and ask about "main skips." They are thinking, "Mains skip what?"
9. I think most stringers would disagree with the comment (copied and pasted), "Crosses are much easier than mains to deal with."
10. I think you can make the section about tying on the crosses more precise. A new stringer may not understand, for example, what you mean simply by, "To start, thread your crosses string through the “starting crosses” hole for your racket. Then, bring the string tip around and through the “tie off crosses” hole. Yes, you thread through the “start crosses” hole and then into the “tie off crosses” hole and tie off onto the mains string that is in that hole." Some have difficulty with patterns. Some don't understand this terminology. It might be best to explain, again for example, that the first cross that is woven enters and exits a grommet of a certain number (what you call the "starting crosses hole"), such as grommet 8 at the head (left and right). This depends how the pattern is written. In your case, you are putting the string through the grommet for the first cross on the side opposite the tie off, weaving the first cross to avoid pulling the entire length of cross string, which is entering and exiting the frame at grommet "Y" (what you call the "starting crosses hole"). You are then running the string along the outside of the frame, and inserting it at grommet "X" to tie a starting knot around the anchor string. Then you pull tension on the string that you have already woven. I was just using "X" and "Y" to replace numbers in an actual pattern. They might just need those extra definitions and a map of the string travel without related photos or videos.

Again, it is just my opinion, based on my knowledge of what newbies ask and do, as long as you're going to the trouble of creating a tutorial at Google Docs.
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Still with the Head LM Radical MP/OS. The dying art of the 1HBH. Gamma X-2. Would a higher-end machine get me more forum "cred"? ;)

Last edited by Radicalized : 06-16-2012 at 03:47 AM.
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:58 AM   #12
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@Radicalized - Thanks a lot for the in depth editing. I agree with everything you said, so I'm gonna take some concentrated time to implement those things, (terminology, spelling, grammer, mindful attention to the target audience as beginners). It's good stuff! I for one appreciate the quality control.

Thanks!
Andy
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:01 AM   #13
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@Radicalized - Thanks a lot for the in depth editing. I agree with everything you said, so I'm gonna take some concentrated time to implement those things, (terminology, spelling, grammer, mindful attention to the target audience as beginners). It's good stuff! I for one appreciate the quality control.

Thanks!
Andy
Thanks. And thanks for not wanting to take my head off for evaluating your personal work. I'm sure new users will appreciate your work. And the members who are tired of answering the same questions over and over will too.

If one makes a post, fine. It might be brief just to get the basic point across. Others might post. Combined knowledge. The problem with producing a singular in-depth work is that it represents you to a greater degree.
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Last edited by Radicalized : 06-17-2012 at 12:07 AM.
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:50 AM   #14
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Thanks. And thanks for not wanting to take my head off for evaluating your personal work.
As musician, I say, "Good songs are written, great songs are re-written!"
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:23 AM   #15
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I made lots of changes, shortening things, improving the quality of each sentence, spell checks, grammar checks and using the industry standard terminology. Should be much better now, thanks!
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:54 AM   #16
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I'll be happy to read it and tell you what a great job you did. Right now, I'm just poking around the board. I'm sure new users will appreciate the work.

Thanks for adding to the forum.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:57 AM   #17
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I'll be happy to read it and tell you what a great job you did. Right now, I'm just poking around the board. I'm sure new users will appreciate the work.

Thanks for adding to the forum.
No need, if people have questions, I assume they'll ask and I'll clarify if needed. Thanks for your previous help.
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:07 AM   #18
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great tutorial. well done. how long did it take you?

one typo on page 5 "hre" instead of "here.
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:09 AM   #19
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great tutorial. well done. how long did it take you?
one typo on page 5 "hre" instead of "here.
Thanks, fixed the typo. It takes me 1 or 1.5 hours to string. I'm shooting for 30-45. It took me a few hours to write the tutorial, if that's what you were asking about.
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