Stringing with the Gamma X-2/Progression 200

[Radicalized]

[Thread under construction]
"Wanna be" stringers who want (in this case) entry-level machine information have arrived. Plus, apparently tennis players are getting really strong and can break strings quite fast! A low(er)-cost option is requested. To serve this population, especially those who choose not to search for the tons of information already in place (Someone has to help the lazy.), I decided to copy and paste, and update, some of my previous posts regarding the entry-level Gamma dropweight/composite floating clamp offerings, the X-2 and the Progression 200. Basic information about stringing is shown below, as well.

Here, I not only present my own explanations and images, but direct you (with proper credit) to the works of others which have been referred to many times in the past and are well known to those on the forum. I have no interests in Gamma other than owning and using a machine. These machines are "popular" because of their price, quality, portability, and ease of use.

If you have a question, search or start a new thread.

This thread is NOT about, "Which brand should I get, Gamma ________ or ____________?" Do a SEARCH. There are many, many, many (actually, many^10) threads on this. You will not be getting a singular answer. Do your research. Make your purchase. String. It is also not about, "How good is this product or any of the parts?" For all of those answers, again, SEARCH.

I won't be doing a supplemental video. I'm not a performer. Also, I have nosey friends and relatives. Links to lots of informative videos are included below. I don't guarantee working links.

You should read the entire guide before attempting to string.

The starting and clamping method is slightly different for machines with floating (also called "flying"), rather than fixed clamps, because the clamps are not attached to the base. This is explained below. Also, I am "officially" renaming this category of stringing machines, "Let It Down Slowly" (LIDS) Weight Machines. Don't DROP.

X-2 vs. Progression 200
What is the difference between the X-2 and the Progression 200? They have the same dropweight/ratcheting rotational gripper tensioning, clamping (composite floating clamps), and two-point mounting systems. The X-2 has a blue aluminum base with a small drawer and a soft, lined tray. The Progression 200 has a plastic-covered metal base and tray as shown below.

What is included?
One should always check with the supplier, but to my knowledge, along with the parts shown below, the following items are included: manual, USRSA stringing guide (Gamma version for inclusion with its products), hex keys, small wrench, racquet adapters, pathfinder awl, pliers, awl, and a razor (Tip #1: Avoid the razor and get cutters as noted in Post #3.). You may also receive five sample sets of Gamma string (This may change.).

How do I assemble my machine?
The manual contains this information. PDF files of the manuals are available at the Gamma site. However, a picture is worth a thousand words. The machine is properly assembled in the photo below. You will use the 5mm hex key (included) to "lock" and "unlock" the supports. The support posts angle out away from the center (\___/). A few details on this are written below in the "MACHINE USE" section.


Progression 200

Important Note: These instructions are for basic stringing with a Gamma machine using floating clamps (X-2 and Progression 200). They are not intended to cover every scenario. Other methods can be used to string a racquet. These can be learned as the stringer gains skill or by necessity. Also note that some racquets may require specific techniques (particularly Prince "port" racquets). Links to helpful videos, images of sample racquet patterns, and other useful information are shown below the following instructions. However, this method can be used with any machine that can mount a racquet and tension, as the main issues in the instructions involve the use of floating clamps, rather than fixed. Your machine applies if you own floating clamps. I simply do not provide information on other mounting and tensioning systems.

Before you string, check your racquet for any damage. This includes things such as cracks in the frame and damaged or missing grommets.

RACQUET SUPPORT ADAPTERS
Place the tapered racquet support adapters over the threaded posts for the hold down plates. The hold downs go on flat side down and are curved to the shape of the frame.

Note: In the photo above, the racquet was already strung when the photo was taken. The example of how to use the adapters still applies.

MOUNTING THE RACQUET
Choose the tapered adapters with the largest size and side that does not block the grommets. Place your racquet down on the support posts. The adapters should contact the inside of the frame at the head and throat. Be sure the posts are centered between the center grommets, right and left, at the head and throat. Adjust the support posts as necessary to be sure the adapters properly contact the frame. Secure your racquet with the frame hold down plates. Turn the knobs so they are secure but not too tight as to damage the frame.

You should choose an adapter (there are four: two thin and two thick for wide body racquets) with the thickness that gets as much frame contact as possible without blocking the grommets.

THE WEIGHT
Place the weight on the bar so the knob is on the side facing the gripper. Set your desired tension by aligning the face closest the gripper with the tension number stamped in the bar.

THE SCALES TO SET TENSION
There are three scales (sets of numbers for pounds or kilograms). With the bar leaning to the left (resting position) when looking at the machine from the front are kilograms (numbered 10-40). With the bar leaning to the right when looking at the front of the machine, as when tensioning, are the pounds (to 90). "Below" that, the scale goes to 26, which are pounds for badminton, used after removing the larger part of the weight using the hex key.

RACQUET PATTERN
Determine the pattern for the racquet. I'll write out instructions for stringing two-piece (four knots) here using the basic method for machines with floating clamps. For one-piece, you simply measure enough string to complete one side of the mains and tie off, and when you complete the other side, you do not tie off, but continue to string the crosses and tie off (two knots).

So, for two-piece, measure your mains. Note: with the Gamma Progression 200/X-2, you'll need enough string to get out of the racquet and around the rotational string gripper to pull tension (about 15") (without using a jumper or using a scrap piece of string and a knot). This becomes important when tensioning the last mains before tying off. Cut the tips of your string to a point so they pass through grommets easily.

START LOOP
Determine whether the start loop is at the head or throat. If the number of grommets at the throat in the yoke is even when divided by two, the start loop is at the head (8/2=4: head). If the number is odd, the loop is at the throat (6/2=3:throat). Using the basic method shown for floating clamp machines, keeping the tips together to have equal lengths of string on each side, pull the main length of string through the grommets for LM1 (left main one) and RM1 (right main one) from throat to head (or head to throat). Pull the string through so the starting loop is properly set against the frame.

CLAMPING YOUR FIRST STRINGS
Pull the strings as not to be loose, and with one floating clamp, clamp the two center mains (RM1 and LM1) together on the side of the start loop, leaving a space between the clamp and frame for the second floating clamp.

Note: A floating clamp must be clamping two strings, as it is not attached to a base.


Note: Not to scale. Only for example of holding two strings, as some new stringers didn't understand this part.



You move the clamp when the string is still held tensioned by the gripper. Otherwise, you will lose all of your tension!

THE MAINS: LACE, TENSION, CLAMP, RELEASE...REPEAT
Now lace one of the sides of string for the next main (It doesn't matter on which side you start.). For example, lace RM2. Place the string for RM2 around the string gripper and in between the gripper jaws. Drop (let down slowly) the arm to pull tension. Use the "ratchet" if needed (Hold the gripper with left hand and lift bar with the right, and only lift a click or two at a time if the bar is only slightly below horizontal.). There are various methods/techniques for doing this, but you'll want to get the bar to about horizontal (+/-2 to 5 degrees. See the link below to the dropweight physics thread for the science and math. Your "personal threshold" may differ depending on your patience and skill! However, be consistent.). Never push down on the bar. When the bar is about horizontal, clamp (in this example) RM1 to RM2 (which is tensioned now) in the space between the first clamp and the frame (the space you left earlier when clamping the two center mains together). Raise the arm after you've clamped the string.

Note: This is the only time you will double-pull (pull tension on two strings at once.) This is due to the use of floating clamps.

(Continued in Post #2.)

[Radicalized]

Now rotate the racquet. Tension (in this example) LM1. When the proper tension has been reached, using the FIRST clamp you set (just follow the tensioned string around to the first clamp you come to), clamp LM1 to RM1 as close as possible to the frame on the side of the tensioner. Once clamped, lift the bar to release tension.

Continue to lace and pull tension on EACH main, alternating left and right as to equalize tension on each side of the frame, never getting more than two ahead. Remember to count the grommets for any main skips (See the pattern. These are grommets through which mains do not pass and are intended for crosses.).

TIE OFF
When you complete the tensioning of the mains, find the grommets where you tie off the mains with finishing knots around strings called the anchor strings. Grommets where you tie off are usually flared (appear larger than other grommets). Note: If you need help with a finishing knot, see the "Parnell Knot" video at youtube.com/yulitle. There is also a video there on tightening finishing knots and the Parnell. After you've tied the knots, you may release the clamps. There are a variety of knots you can use, including the double half-hitch and the Pro knot.

CROSSES
Now, you will tie on the crosses with a starting knot. A starting knot is used as it is designed to not slip through the grommet. Do not use a finishing knot in its place (unless you use the "starting crosses with a starting clamp" method noted below). Again, for help, see youtube.com/yulitle for the videos on starting crosses with a starting knot, and in his example, he uses the "bulky" starting knot. Another is shown as well. There are, of course, others. Find the grommet at which you tie a starting knot, as noted in the pattern. If you have a starting clamp, you can also use that method and later tie off with a finishing knot instead of a starting knot. Again, there is a video available.

Note: After you tension the first cross (and clamp), the only thing holding the clamp in place are the mains. Once, you get past the first cross, you will be clamping two crosses together. Also, you will only be clamping one string when you have only the first cross tensioned. Insert a "dummy" piece of string in the other side of the clamp. As you go along, you may use both clamps, with the trailing clamp acting as a backup in the event you release tension on the clamp placed most recently.

WEAVING
Weave under and over, fanning the string (moving it back and forth as you pull) as you pull it through to avoid friction burns. Again, there are Yulitle videos on pulling crosses and cross weaving. Weave one ahead when doing your crosses (See explanation below in post #3.). Tension each cross. Lay any strings on the outside of the frame parallel (Don't cross over like an "X."). Yulitle also has a video regarding getting through blocked grommets and using the Gamma Pathfinder Awl that comes with the machine.

TIE OFF
When you've completed the crosses, find the grommet where you tie a finishing knot. Again, a knot like the Parnell will be fine.

Hopefully, you've just completed stringing your racquet. Carefully remove the racquet from the supports.
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A NOTE ON CLAMP ADJUSTMENT
I like to count the clicks when adjusting the clamps (Gamma Composite Floating) for use for certain strings/gauges so I know where to set them for a particular string. If using the same string all of the time, it's not an issue. I open the clamps up (lift the lever away from the clamp body), turn the knob clockwise until it stops, counting the clicks to determine the former clamp "setting" (tightness) for a particular string, rather than guessing. Turn it counterclockwise to reset the clamp to its original setting (remember the # of clicks). You'll get the hang of them. Focus on getting enough grip without being too tight. They shouldn't be too hard to open either.

The clamp "tightness" may change with different strings, even if the gauges are listed as the same. You can figure that out as noted here for whatever your string is and keep it in mind when changing the clamps for other strings, if you do so. First of all, the clamps shouldn't be hard to clamp on or remove--the lever should be fairly easy to open and close. Just as a general number for string, all the way from the position I noted above (open clamp and turn CW until knob stops), and then turn back CCW (counting clicks) might be in the 30-something clicks range or so (-X for "thicker"/+X "thinner" generally). Test on a sample of string to be sure the lever can be closed and you are not "crushing" the string. If they need to be tightened, as you think they may be slipping, remember, right is tight.

MACHINE USE (TIPS AND TECHNIQUE)


Rotational Gripper: How to Properly Wrap the String to Tension

I'd stress the fact that "drop weight" means, "let it down slowly weight," not DROP. And never push the bar down.

When securing the racquet with the hold down plates, turn the knobs evenly and with only enough pressure to hold the racquet securely.

Users will find it easier to turn the ratcheting gripper so the jaws are on top and about parallel with the table/support surface. The ratchet allows movement in only one direction. The drum of the rotational gripper only turns clockwise.

There are three scales for choosing a tension: With the bar leaning to the left (resting position) when looking at the machine from the front are kilograms (numbered 10-40). With the bar leaning to the right when looking at the front of the machine, as when tensioning, are the pounds (to 90). "Below" that goes to 26, which are pounds for badminton, used after removing the larger part of the weight using the hex key.

There have been questions about this before, but the bar being slightly above or below horizontal is acceptable, as noted earlier.

The weight should consist of both parts for stringing tennis racquets. The knob should be on the side that faces the gripper. Tension is set on the tension bar by aligning the side (face) of the weight closest the string gripper with the appropriate number (tension) on the bar. Make sure you are looking at the correct scale!

Turntable posts should angle away from the center of the turntable (\___/).

When the bar is close to horizontal, but still below what might be an acceptable angle, while holding the ratcheting string gripper firmly with your left hand, only lift the bar to go a click of the ratchet (or two at most) to avoid getting the bar too far above horizontal.

Each person may want to determine where he or she can position the bar before inserting the string in the gripper for little to possibly no use (sometimes) of the ratchet. This will depend on the string.

A little trick to get the threaded support posts for the racquet hold down plates between the two center grommets: Place short "U" shaped pieces of string (stiffer string works best) that have been cut out of a racquet (usually has nice bends already) through the grommets at the top and bottom, and then place the racquet down on the supports. Screw the plates/plate knobs down. Then remove the old string guides. You can't miss getting the racquet placed properly so the threaded posts don't block the grommets. It also makes it easier to count grommets to points on the frame that will help you find the center.

RACQUET STRINGING PATTERNS (three examples)
Here is one of my works of art previously used to describe a racquet pattern to a new stringer (in this case he had a Yonex 001 mid).
If you don't know your racquet well, I recommend thinking it out in a way similar to what is shown below.

Note where the start loop is located, the direction of the lacing and weaving, the weave pattern, the main skips, and the tie offs.



Pure Drive Roddick example (two-piece):


Head Liquidmetal 8


Note: Some manufacturers and sites use different methods for counting grommets. Some say, "TOP" instead of "HEAD" or "BOTTOM" instead of "THROAT."

(Continued in Post #3.)

[Radicalized]

Q & A (in no particular order, at least at the moment)

I need to learn basic techniques. Where do I go?
Watch:
YULITLE CHANNEL:
http://www.youtube.com/yulitle

If your racquet is still strung:
Cutting Strings out of a Racket (racquet)
STRINGER USE:
1. Mounting - 6-Point (No YU vid for 2-point, which is simple.)
2. Swivel Clamps - Use and Operation (No YU vid for floating clamps pertaining to these machines specifically. Also simple.)
MAINS:
3. Getting Mains Started - Two-piece (Various methods available. This is different for floating clamps. See written instructions above.)
4. How to Start Your Mains
5. Parnell Knot (To tie off--one knot of several to choose)--see #6
6. How to tighten your knots (shows Parnell in example)
CROSSES:
7. Bulky (starting) knot (there are others on the site to try)
8. Starting Crosses with a Starting Knot (Note: YULitle weaves his second cross first in the video, then weaves the first cross and puts string through the grommet where he will tie the starting knot around the main. Then he ties the knot, tightens it, and pulls tension.)
9. Intro to Main Skips and Cross Weaving
10. How to Pass String thru Blocked Grommets
11. Why to Pull Hard Weaves Twice
12. Weaving Crosses
13. Parnell Knot (To tie off--one of several)
14. How to tighten your knots
15. Mounting - 6-Point (remove the racquet properly)

say thanks, "Yulitle."

X-2 Videos (Similar to Progression 200)
And thanks to "Almerickso": Videos on the X-2 (Same working parts as the Progression 200).

http://www.youtube.com/user/almerickso

See videos 1-5 regarding the X-2.
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Additional Materials
Videos are also available by members like "Drakulie" (www.youtube.com/user/drakulie), and of course, "Irvin" (www.youtube.com/user/Mr10sStringer), who has created excellent videos regarding the 50/50 pattern, Prince "port" racquets, and "innovative" ease-of-stringing techniques, to name a few. Also, there is this mighty powerful forum tool called the SEARCH feature.

What other tools might I need while stringing?
Here is a short list:
Additional pliers, such as bent nose--pulling/tying
Micro flush cutters-- fine cutting
Diagonal cutters--cutting
Starting clamp (See Yulitle video regarding starting crosses with a starting clamp)--starting crosses, pulling string and tying, "jumping" when string not long enough to reach tensioner (use with additional piece of string), some "specialized" racquet patterns, and backing up another clamp when starting mains

There are other gadgets, such as ones to measure tension and straighten strings. These are not "stringing" tools that would be a helpful upgrade to those provided (as noted in the beginning of the post) with the machine to be able to complete a job. I will consider those another topic. My intention is simply for you to get the racquet strung. Also, brands and price/quality issues are not the intent of this thread. For that, the previously mentioned SEARCH feature is your friend.

Weave one ahead? One what?
This is good. Double-pulling is bad (tensioning two strings at once).
Explanation: As I've previously noted, you should weave one ahead when doing crosses, which means, weave the second and tension the first, weave the third and tension the second, and so on. This reduces time to weave and decreases some of the friction. Just leave a big enough "loop" so you have a long enough run of string to pull tension and to reach the tension head/gripper. Image below as example:
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FULL CREDIT ACKNOWLEDGEMENT: The following image is from "YULitle" on this TT page:
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showt...eave+one+ahead
08-24-2008, 02:36 PM #19
YULitle
Hall Of Fame

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How do I avoid misweaves?
Clearly, you could spend lots of time checking the under/over pattern of your crosses. A quick tip is if the cross starts under a main, it should end over a main, and vice versa, as long as you didn't do two (an even number) misweaves. Remember, a pattern will appear, as an example:
O-U-O
|-||-|
U-O-U

One-piece, two-piece? Two knots, four knots?
One-piece stringing involves a single length of string. You will measure a length of string for one side of the racquet to complete the mains and then tie off. This is called the short side for obvious reasons (knot one of two). On the other side, you will also complete your mains, but you do not tie off. This is called the long side, where you need enough string to complete half of the mains and all of the crosses. You then go on to complete the crosses and tie off (knot two of two). You still alternate when installing mains on the left and right to equalize tension on the frame. Two-piece stringing involves cutting separate lengths of string for the mains and crosses. You use half of the main string for each side of the racquet, tying off on the left and right (knots one and two of four knots). The start loop is the center point. You use the second piece of string to tie on the crosses, weave and tension, and tie off the crosses (knots three and four of four knots). Check the racquet pattern for which to use (Sometimes you have a choice.), and measure the string appropriately.

How does this thing work?
It's just a bar and a metal weight. Huh? See http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=170414 (Dropweight physics thread by "lethalfang," et al.)

I have to keep ratcheting/the string is stretching, and the bar is still below level, or the bar won't drop to level.
Strings like synthetic gut or multis will stretch. Some will stretch A LOT. Assuming you have the strings clamped securely, if the bar is below level, you will have to keep holding the ratcheting gripper and lift the bar until you get it close to level. Strings like polys stretch very little. For these, start the bar closer to level before inserting the string in the jaws of the gripper and then drop to tension. You will learn how to do this for different strings. String characteristics vary widely.

So, where do I position the bar when inserting the string in the gripper?
It depends on the string and in some cases, your preference. It can be the resting position, holding it closer to horizontal at an appropriate angle for the string characteristics, or down, in which case you ratchet up and drop. Again, see the note about strings stretching.

Do I have to clean my stringer and clamps?
Hopefully, your stringer is stored in a clean and dry place, and you dust it now and then. There may come a time when residue builds up on the clamping surfaces (jaws/clamps). The common answer to this problem is to use, for example, a pipe cleaner or shoe lace, and clean toothbrush (all soft and non-abrasive items), along with isopropyl alcohol.

How do/can I store my machine?
If you use it frequently and have the space, leaving it in place with a cover (to keep the dust off) is fine. However, you may choose to put it away when not in use. Aside from cardboard boxes, it is difficult to find a "tool box-type" container in which it will fit without disassembling it completely. Although large, personally I use a Sterilite 1842 Footlocker to hold the stringer and associated tools and supplies. When storing the stringer, it is best to lower the weight toward the gripper or remove it entirely, as to avoid any weight-related accidents. Force=mass X acceleration. Also, I actually store my clamps in a see-through, labeled plastic pencil box. My tools are either in the drawer (of an X-2) or in a small tool box. I keep stringing information in the locker, too.

Do I have to calibrate my machine?
No. Unlike machines that use springs and other parts that can change with time and use, there is nothing that changes with the dropweight. There is nothing designed into the machine itself for the user to modify. You simply move the weight along the bar to change tension. Gravity does the rest.

A dropweight machine is a constant pull machine?
Yes. A dropweight continues to pull tension and does not "lock out." The string will continue to stretch until the bar stops dropping, and you ratchet and raise the bar so that it maintains a level position. Then you clamp. The machine pulls to your desired tension.

How do I string a badminton racquet?
First, remove the large part of the weight using the 5mm hex key, leaving the smaller section with the knob. Use the scale on the bar, as noted above, for badminton. Smaller badminton floating clamps are also available from Gamma and other manufacturers. String as per the recommendations for the racquet.

I've heard about stringing methods "X," "Y," and "Z." Should I use them?
This thread isn't about special stringing techniques. Personally, I'm of the opinion that standard stringing methods are more than adequate. Just don't "rush," use proper techniques, and try to be consistent. That is your job in a nutshell. Using a pattern, and you can do the search, like the 50/50 may apply to a racquet like a Prince "port-type" because the racquet itself may require special "handling." Stringing at lower tensions than what is noted as the recommended range on your racquet is simply reducing the tension, and the rest of the stringing procedure can remain the same. This is more common today with poly strings, as they are already stiff. The science of certain string types and tensions is not in the scope of my intent for the thread. Learn the basics first, and then move on to the "latest" and perhaps, or perhaps not, "greatest."

(Continued in Post #5.)

[mchjhn]

make this a sticky for all the x2 progression 200 questions.

[Radicalized]

How do I cut the strings out properly?
Generally, there are two methods. As noted earlier, there is a "Yulitle" video available. One method entails cutting from the center on an angle, cutting up and then down, alternating as you continue on an angle (cutting both a main and cross simultaneously). The other method entails starting from the center and cutting in a clock-type motion (cross, main, cross, main), moving outward as you go. There are stringbed cutters, but any decent cutter will do (for example, diagonal cutters).

How do I measure string length?
All kinds of methods have been suggested. The obvious are rulers and yardsticks. Arm lengths. Racquet lengths. Desk lengths. I even wrap mine around a cookie tin "X" number of times and have a chart how long the string is with "X" wraps (It keeps the string tight to the curve and neat, too. ). Just try to keep the string straight to be as accurate as possible.

A "Radical" method:

How do I know how much string my racquet needs?
There are a lot of individual answers to this. The simplest is check the pattern. However, that alone may not tell the whole story. Some strings stretch (some a lot) and some seemingly not at all. If it is the first time doing a racquet, measure the entire length of string before stringing, and be generous if possible. For the majority of racquets, with this machine, a standard 40' package of synthetic gut or a multifilament, for example, will get the job done. For some racquets, a string that doesn't stretch (much), like a poly, may require a couple of feet more without having to "jump" to reach the tensioner, wrap around, and enter the jaws. I have personally encountered this with my racquet. Keep track of what you have left when you're done (or perhaps what you would have needed).

Where do I find racquet patterns?
Racquet manufacturer sites. Some stringing machine manufacturer sites. Basic information on individual sales pages for racquets at TW. Miscellaneous tennis-related sites. Throughout the forum. The USRSA Digest if you're a member or can get your hands on one. In my opinion, they could be more readily available.

How do I determine how a racquet was previously strung? The strings are still in it.
Count the knots. Two knots, one-piece job. Four knots, two-piece job. Find the center mains. Where is the start loop on the outside of the frame in the center, head (top) or throat (bottom)? Follow the mains away from the start loop and around the racquet. If two-piece, left and right side mains will both tie off. Count the grommets from the center left and right mains to the tie off points. Note the grommet tie off position. If one-piece, only one main side will tie off. The other will continue around to the crosses. Follow this to the finishing knot of the crosses. For crosses of a two-piece, find the two knots. One is where the crosses begin. The other is where they end. One may be a starting knot, and the other a finishing knot. Most racquets have the crosses begin at the head and end at the throat. This can vary by model. When possible, most stringers find it best to string top-down.

I've heard I can add tension to the final mains/cross. Is this appropriate or necessary?
This issue has been debated because of the loss of tension when tying off. Again, threads abound. Personally, I don't add additional tension. Do attempt to cinch your knots tightly to the grommet and remove any slack. Do NOT tighten your knots using the machine's tensioner. This applies too much tension and can break the string or maybe even your precious racquet. The outer mains may move some because there are not main strings on both sides, as with all of the others.

My pattern says to tie off on a cross. I can do that?
Yes, if the manufacturer dictates that. I see this often with Babolat racquets, for example.

Should I straighten my strings?
Always straighten your strings when you've completed the racquet. This aids in appearance and proper playability. Tools are available for this, but using your fingers as you would on-court is fine as well. Straighten as you string if you wish.

$@*$%#@! I can't get the string through the grommet! What do I do?
You should have a Pathfinder awl if you got a Gamma machine. Try that. There is a "Yulitle" video. But even better, make an awl out of your string. Cut the tip of the string to a very sharp point. Maybe even compress the point some with your pliers. You can even apply something to lubricate the tip. Perhaps you can simply push it through now. If not, insert the point into the hole. Grasp the string very close to the frame with pliers (so you don't bend the string trying to push it in). Push it in with the pliers. Repeat with very small lengths of string as appropriate until it is through.

I just released all of the tension! What do I do now?
You will have to start over. If you are doing it for yourself, go ahead and use the same string. If you're doing it for someone else, you should use new string (It's just the right thing to do.) However, if let's say you were doing crosses with two clamps, just go back and tension to the clamp still holding tension.

I missed a weave, and I tied off. Can I still use the racquet?
The racquet will be fine. However, I believe the racquet is not legal for official (USTA, ITF, those who follow the rules) play because of the change from the official definition of how the stringbed should appear.

I tied off on the wrong grommet. Is this a problem?
Most likely the racquet and string will be fine. Each occurrence may have its own issues if you undermined the frame or grommet in any way. While stringers sometimes tie off at grommets other than those specified, manufacturers design patterns with intention (Although some may argue with this statement.). In other words, unless you have a need to do so, use the official pattern.

How long will it take me to string a racquet?
The first time could range into a few hours. At least some have reported that. Once you get the hang of it (all of the "stuff" mentioned here), you'll probably get down under an hour. How far under depends on how good your weaving skills are, how little you have to check the strings and grommets, how well you tension and clamp, how long it takes for the string to finish stretching, how quickly you can tie knots, and how generally efficient you are with the loose strings and so forth.

I'm having trouble with weaves. What can I do?
Practice makes perfect. Aside from that, check your method. Generally, you'll use one of two methods. Push weaving is where you place the tip of the string between a finger over the mains and one under, and push it along as you move the string over and under the mains. Pull weaving is where you create a loop of string and pull it across the mains, one hand over and one hand under the mains, moving the string under and over the mains. Also, weave on an angle rather than straight across. That way there is more space to move the string. Also, our most excellent TT forum member, "Irvin," has two other ideas: pulling the crosses with a string and using a bead. See his videos at: www.youtube.com/user/Mr10sStringer

How good is the stringjob with this machine as compared to high-end machines?
I'm not touching that one with a ten-foot pole in this thread. I simply know my strung racquet is quite effective. Do a search. This is another debated topic. You aren't the first or last to ask this question. Make sure you use good technique, as noted earlier. A bad user can ruin any job on any machine.

Can I do the mains, leave them, and then go back later to do the crosses?
If you start the racquet, finish the racquet. Don't start if you can't finish. You want to equalize the tension on the frame created by the mains with the crosses as soon as possible. Leaving it not fully strung for long periods can only lead to a damaged frame.

I'm using a multifilament, and there are marks on the string from the clamp teeth. Are the clamps too tight?
You could have the clamps too tight, but such marks on a multifilament are common. Just be sure no string is crushed. The clamps do not need to be that tight.

How high should the machine be when stringing?
Given it is a portable machine and not all users may have access to a surface with the optimal height, generally you want the machine raised to a height where you can comfortably see the string bed and be able to use the one hand under/one hand over weaving techniques noted earlier. Clearly, your height is a factor.

Do I have to be able to walk around the machine?
No. You need enough room for the racquet to rotate, the bar to drop fully, and not be cramped while moving around while performing stringing functions.

What environmental factors affect stringing?
Generally, you need good lighting, especially when trying to insert strings in grommets. Also, cool and dry is better, as sweaty hands and tennis strings do not go together.

Is the machine compatible with all racquets?
I'm not a racquet or machine historian, so I can't give a definitive answer. The machine will work fine with the common modern racquets you will encounter. If you have some type of older or unusual frame, then request a specific answer from the manufacturer or the forum.

Will the machine work with all types of string?
Yes. However, you have to take into account the characteristics of each type of string, as noted above, when stringing, particularly when tensioning, clamping, and weaving.

What is a hybrid?
It is simply one type of string as the mains and another as the crosses. This, of course, requires a two-piece job.

(Continued in Post #6.)

[Radicalized]

I have a racquet with staggered grommets. Do I string this racquet differently?
Make sure you weave your first cross as a hard weave, where the string contacts the first main in a manner where there is optimal contact. For example, if the first main string that you encounter is below the grommet for the cross, weave the cross string down under main string and then back up over the next. Continue weaving as normal.

I have a racquet with a "built-in" dampener. How do I deal with this when clamping?
I can't comment on all models, nor do I know all of the "dampening systems" available. As an example, you might string the mains through the dampener, and move it toward the center of the mains when clamping nearest the frame. When done, you can slide it into position.

I'm having a hard time getting knots looking right. What can I do to improve?
The "handling" of the knot and string is a little tough for me to put in words. This assumes you tie the knot using the proper steps. Be sure you have a long enough length of string to make smooth curves in the string as you perform each step. Support the loop with your fingers as you pull the tip so you don't quickly add kinks. If using poly, try to get the slack out as you go along and close loops. If left open and you're trying to pull to close another loop, the first may not close neatly and may "kink up."

What do I do if the string kinks?
The "damage" can vary, but it may create a weak point. You can continue to string, but the result may not be good. If you are stringing for someone else, you know what you should do, right?

I want to string natural gut. Does it really require special handling?
You'll want to be more delicate with natural gut. A natural gut mistake is co$tly. Be careful not to kink it. Do not pull it too fast. Be careful when tying knots. Do not use a lot of force. It could break. Watch forum member "Drakulie"'s youtube video. www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpfwDvF3Buk

I simply want "X" pounds/kilograms. What is this talk about reference tension?
Reference tension is what you set and the machine initially pulls. However, the string, and this varies with type, will lose a certain amount of tension with time and use. Your string tension will not be exactly the tension at which you set the weight on the bar. If you feel a need in the future, you can adjust the machine's tension setting up or down accordingly. Details on percentages of tension lost, and the relationships of sting tension on a "lock out" machine as opposed to a "constant pull" machine, can be found on the forum and web, in general.

Is there a way to monitor the tension of the strings?
There are string "meters" that will measure tension or tension loss over time (Gamma ATS ERT 300, Gamma String Tension Tester, Tourna Stringmeter). There is even an "app for that" (racquetTune). Search for specific opinions on effectiveness.

How do I stencil my strings?
Obtain an official stencil template or make your own out of an "ink/colorant resistant" material. Place the template on the strings. Use stencil ink, which can be obtained from tennis suppliers, such as TW. Note: Stencil ink will last longer on some types of string.

Can I use any floating clamps I want?
Assuming they are intended for tennis if stringing a tennis racquet, and the same for badminton, the type makes no difference. Again, this thread isn't about which brand to buy. Again, previous threads are plentiful.

Is there a way to upgrade from two-point to six-point mounting, or to fixed clamps, in the future?
As far as I know, there is no Gamma upgrade product for these entry-level machines. If you think you want a six-point or fixed clamps, you'll have to buy the entire machine.

Should I wear eye protection when stringing?
That is your call. I'll put it this way, there are probably some stringers out there who do, as they follow the advice of "Norm Abram" (Some of you might get it.) or have had an incident. That said, keep control of your strings. And be extremely careful when tightening knots with pliers, as they can unexpectedly release and come the way of your face.

"My machine slides on the surface I have available." or "I need to place my machine on a surface which CAN NOT get marked." How can I solve this?
An anti-slip mat might do the trick. You can expand from there to get the surface you need to support the machine.

Is there an official stand available for these machines?
Yes. It is height-adjustable.

I need customer service. Whom do I call?
Gamma provides customer service. Check the official site. Also, "Gamma Tech," who works at Gamma, visits the forum.

I need to lower the bar to store the machine. How do I do this?
Hold the bar. Loosen the 5mm hex bolt at the back of the tensioning unit. Lower the bar.

How do I get the weight on the bar? There is this black thing in the way.
You remove the black cap and put the weight on the bar. Then put the cap back on. Someone actually had this problem. I'm trying to think of everything here.

I am trying to string with poly, but the bar isn't dropping to horizontal! What can I do?
As you've probably already heard/read, polys stretch less. Strings vary, but you'll know when you first start trying to pull tension on a certain type. You can hold the bar at an angle, wrap around the rotational gripper, and then let the bar down slowly. Or you can rotate the bar to its lowest position, wrap, and then lift (while holding the gripper) to tension. You may find an angle of the bar at which you can simply wrap the string, and let the bar down to get the bar to (about) horizontal without ever having to ratchet the bar back up (if you have a ratcheting type). NEVER push the bar down. If the bar is too far above horizontal when pulling tension, release the string and try again. Also, remember because polys stretch less that you will need enough string to exit the racquet and reach around the gripper to tension the final mains/cross. Also note, you can feed less string if the bar is above horizontal. Techniques vary slightly based on which gripper type you have on dropweights for those with other types of machines or without a ratcheting gripper.

(Continued in Post #7.)

[Radicalized]

How big is the machine? How big are the parts? What do they look like up close? Here is a look at the X-2, for example.


X-2 Close-up (disassembled). The weight of parts shown is about 21 lbs.

How do I customize my racquet beyond stringing it differently?
See:
http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/LC/customize.html
http://twu.tennis-warehouse.com/lear...nter/index.php Click "CUSTOMIZATION" button.

Print. Get a dowel or similar tube about 1/2" (12.7mm) in diameter. Note: The 11" distance to the balance point can be achieved simply by using a standard 11" sheet of paper. Use a flat surface.
To be accurate: The image must be saved. Must be 100 pixels/inch. Must be 700 pixels wide X 748 pixels high. Print size is 7"W X 7.48"H. 206KB.
Use a digital scale for weights. Scales accurate to 0.01 grams are available for under $20. Digital scales usually switch between grams, ounces, and other common systems.

How is a starting clamp different from a floating (flying) clamp?
STARTING FLOATING

A starting clamp is spring-loaded to close tightly on a string. The head is relatively small with flat, often "rectangular" clamping surfaces. Starting clamps often have eyelets on the head to use the clamp to "jump" (bridge) a short piece of string to the tensioner.
A floating clamp has teeth that fit between the strings of a racquet when tensioning strings, and they are closed with some type of lever mechanism. A floating clamp holds two strings as shown in Post #1 of this guide. A floating clamp can be adjusted for different thicknesses of string by turning some type of "knob." How each is used is noted earlier.

(Continued in Post #8.)

[Radicalized]

Help me, too! I have a machine with a dropweight, but I have fixed clamps (Does not apply to the X-2 or Progression 200 or other machines with floating (flying) clamps.). How do I start my mains?
Here is a simple version. Methods vary. This will get you started with at least basic procedures for clamping, tensioning, and lacing mains in an alternating manner (left and right of center to maintain equal tension on both sides of the racquet). Remember to take your racquet type and string type into consideration. Note: If you have an electric or crank machine, use that tensioning system as is appropriate. The clamping method noted below still works.
EXAMPLE: Gamma Progression II 602 FC



A Basic Starting Mains Method for Fixed Clamp Machines
Lace your center left and right mains (LM1 and RM1) from head to throat or vice versa depending on what your racquet requires. Check your pattern. See information above about one-piece vs. two-piece stringing.

Note: You can start on the left or right. The following is an example.
Clamp your RM1 (right main one) near the frame on the side of the starting loop (Loop in the center of the racquet that leads to LM1 and RM1.). Make sure you have the clamps clean and tight enough to hold the string.

Insert the LM1 (left main one) string in the gripper and pull tension by lowering the drop weight arm (See alternate methods of positioning the arm above.). And I hope you have the weight on and adjusted to a reasonable weight! Drop the bar so it is about horizontal. If above, insert less string. If below, insert more string. If you have a ratcheting model, use it as appropriate to bring the bar to about horizontal depending on your model. You are now pulling tension on LM1.

WHILE MAINTAINING THE TENSION (bar is horizontal), clamp LM1 (RM1 is still clamped near the side of the start loop near the frame.) on the side opposite the start loop near the frame. YOU MUST maintain tension until you've clamp the string. Then you can release tension. Raise the bar.

Lace LM2 and tension after you've rotated the racquet. Move the clamp for LM1 to the opposite side on LM2 close to the frame.

Rotate the racquet. Pull tension on RM1. Move the first clamp you set on RM1 to the opposite side (side of the tensioner) of RM1, and clamp close to the frame. Remember, you must keep the string tensioned (bar horizontal) as you remove and move clamps.

Lace RM2, rotate and tension. Continue to lace, rotate the racquet, and tension each string, never getting more than two ahead on either side (alternate tensioning string on the left and right of center).

Remember to skip grommets (called "main skips") when necessary (used for crosses). After you've completed the mains left and right (final mains tensioned and clamped), insert the string in the grommet for the tie off anchor string and tie a finishing knot (Parnell, double half-hitch, Pro/Wilson, etc.).

(Continued in Post #13.)

[ductrung3993]

Thank you so much!

[EastAngels2014]

So i just bought this stringer and you seem very advanced with this stringer i seem to be coming up short on my measurements of poly. I will have enough to get through the racquet but not enough to wrap around the jaws to tension it. Do you have any advice for that problem? Should i just give myself another half foot or so?

[Irvin]

Poly does stretch less that other strings so in order to to complete a racket your will need to use a little more string. You can use a starting clamp for a bridge if you have one.

[The Meat]

Nice manual, you should do gamma's stringing manual for them.

[Radicalized]

Understanding the Under/Over pattern and weave patterns that occur.

Example: Volkl PB 10 Mid

[Radicalized]

Space held if I do get around to adding information.

[Radicalized]

Space #2 held if I do get around to adding information.