Woo! Got the X-2!!!!

[bladepdb]

After much debate between Klipper and X-2 and more hours of weighing the pros and cons (more than I probably should have spent :P), I finally got the X-2!

I've already strung two racquets with it. Both were basically cheap, test racquets as I was very concerned about deforming a good frame. The first one took over two hours but the next one only took about an hour and 15 mins. As I plan to string maybe two or three times a week, I feel very good about the time progress.

I tested both racquets out today as well. Good, clean comfortable hits.

I really don't have anything bad to say about this machine. However, I do have a few concerns that I would like tips about.

The two racquets that I strung were pretty cheap, Wal-Mart racquets there were $15 apiece. The frames did "round out" a little bit on the first racquet, but I suspect that is mostly because it was such a cheap racquet. I do not, however, want to risk something like that happening on a better frame (i.e. eventually my K6.1 Tour lol). Does anyone have any pointers on using the 2-point mount? Especially I noticed on some strings I had trouble deciding between going over the frame or under, so if anyone could help point out on what plate to use when mounting on the X-2 that would be great.

The second challenge I'm having is tying off the knots. I think it's probably just a matter of practice and I have some string left over from those stringjobs to practice knots on. Any pointers though on what knots I should use for tying off and a starting knot for the crosses?

Lastly, what method is preferable on the X-2 for starting the mains? I followed the method that Almerickso's Tube videos utilized where you clamp the two center mains and then pull one to tension then the next. I also tried to double-pull as demonstrated on YULitle's videos. Maybe I just didn't get the concept right, but is double-pulling on a drop-weight not as efficient as on an electronic one?

EDIT: One more question: Is it easier to string a thinner gauge (17) than it is a thicker one? The two strings I used were both 15L since I figured I'd just use those up since I never play with higher than 16L gauge.

Thanks for the help with the decision to those that commented on my previous posts in this forum, and thanks for any answers to this thread!

[zidane339]

Cheap racquets do round out a bit. Just remenber to use the plastic adapters and make sure the racquet is snug against the adaptors so it has no room to shorten.

For tying off I recommend the Parnell Knot and starting crosses the "starting knot."These can be found on YuLitle's videos.
Or try this site: http://www.keohi.com/tennis/misc/knots.htm

For starting mains I followed Almerickos videos but he double pulls his mains. You may want to use Yulitles method but it can be more challenging depending on if you can fit a flying clamp in the throat of your racquet. Ideally, you dont want to double pull (tensioning two mains at once) but sometimes you cant help it with flying clamps.

The double pullin you're refering to (tensioning two strings by placing both in tensioner) is slightly harder cause you're using a rotational gripper as opposed to a linear gripper on Yulitles machine.

Hope this helps and congrats on becoming a stringer!

[Bud]

Originally Posted by bladepdb

After much debate between Klipper and X-2 and more hours of weighing the pros and cons (more than I probably should have spent :P), I finally got the X-2!

I've already strung two racquets with it. Both were basically cheap, test racquets as I was very concerned about deforming a good frame. The first one took over two hours but the next one only took about an hour and 15 mins. As I plan to string maybe two or three times a week, I feel very good about the time progress.

I tested both racquets out today as well. Good, clean comfortable hits.

I really don't have anything bad to say about this machine. However, I do have a few concerns that I would like tips about.

The two racquets that I strung were pretty cheap, Wal-Mart racquets there were $15 apiece. The frames did "round out" a little bit on the first racquet, but I suspect that is mostly because it was such a cheap racquet. I do not, however, want to risk something like that happening on a better frame (i.e. eventually my K6.1 Tour lol). Does anyone have any pointers on using the 2-point mount? Especially I noticed on some strings I had trouble deciding between going over the frame or under, so if anyone could help point out on what plate to use when mounting on the X-2 that would be great.

Make sure to use the correct adapter. The top of the adapter should be just below the grommets. Go under the frame when pulling mains.

The second challenge I'm having is tying off the knots. I think it's probably just a matter of practice and I have some string left over from those stringjobs to practice knots on. Any pointers though on what knots I should use for tying off and a starting knot for the crosses?

I use Tom Parry's "fishing" knot for the starting knot and the double half-hitch for tie-offs. If using a very thin poly or kevlar, use an extra loop on the starting knot so it doesn't pull through the grommet. Knots become very easy after you reach the point of having to look at the paper diagrams.

Lastly, what method is preferable on the X-2 for starting the mains? I followed the method that Almerickso's Tube videos utilized where you clamp the two center mains and then pull one to tension then the next. I also tried to double-pull as demonstrated on YULitle's videos. Maybe I just didn't get the concept right, but is double-pulling on a drop-weight not as efficient as on an electronic one?

Clamp both mains first. Then pull and clamp next individual main to one that was clamped initially. Do half the mains on one side then switch to the other side so racquet is not overstressed.

EDIT: One more question: Is it easier to string a thinner gauge (17) than it is a thicker one? The two strings I used were both 15L since I figured I'd just use those up since I never play with higher than 16L gauge.

Generally, yes... as it's easier to get thinner string through shared grommets for starting and tie-offs.

Thanks for the help with the decision to those that commented on my previous posts in this forum, and thanks for any answers to this thread!

See my above responses in BOLD

[bladepdb]

Thanks zidane, the site for the knots is very helpful. Appreciate the input.

Thanks as well Bud, though I do have a follow up question on that. I was a little confused about which adapter to use...I plan to eventually string my K6.1 Tour, would I be using the wider adapter or the thinner one for it? I found the instruction manual a bit ambiguous for which one to use....

[Bud]

Originally Posted by bladepdb

Thanks zidane, the site for the knots is very helpful. Appreciate the input.

Thanks as well Bud, though I do have a follow up question on that. I was a little confused about which adapter to use...I plan to eventually string my K6.1 Tour, would I be using the wider adapter or the thinner one for it? I found the instruction manual a bit ambiguous for which one to use....

I strung my K90 with the shortest side of the smallest adapter pressing against the racquet frame... But, since the 95 beam width is a bit wider, use the taller side of the small adapter against the frame. Once in place, it should lie just under the grommets. If it hits the grommets, it's too tall... use the next size down.

In essence, you always want to use the tallest adapter side possible pressing against the frame. That will minimize any chance of damage to the racquet. You want as much of that plastic adapter pressing against the racquet as possible without touching the grommets (or obstructing the holes on grommetless racquets).

[Gamma Tech]

Originally Posted by Bud

I
In essence, you always want to use the tallest adapter side possible pressing against the frame. That will minimize any chance of damage to the racquet. You want as much of that plastic adapter pressing against the racquet as possible without touching the grommets (or obstructing the holes on grommetless racquets).

i couldn't have said it better myself. thanks.
bret

[bladepdb]

So I strung my first real racquet with this thing and it turned out very solid. It hit very cleanly but I found the strings to move around a lot, especially the crosses which surprised me (normally when I play a fresh string job it doesn't move until a second set, this one started moving even the crosses after about three short games!). Is this probably because of the string itself (Gamma Syn Gut 16 @ 60#) or maybe poor technique in stringing?

Also, I found that on the practice racquets I had to straighten the strings after the job was finished...is it more advisable to straighten while I string so that it stays in place better as I pull tension on on the next set of crosses?

Lastly, is it advisable that I increase tension by a few pounds, like 2-4, on the last mains and the last cross? I've heard this is a very common technique but at the same time many people claim it's a waste since with most racquets hitting in those regions normally isn't a forgiving spot. However my goal is consistency in the stringbed, so would it be advisable to raise tension by, say, 3# on the last mains and the last cross?

Thanks again for the help, especially on the adapter...worked great, don't think the frame deformed much at all (then again this was a real racquet and not a $15 racquet from 6 years ago lmao).

[Bud]

Originally Posted by bladepdb

So I strung my first real racquet with this thing and it turned out very solid. It hit very cleanly but I found the strings to move around a lot, especially the crosses which surprised me (normally when I play a fresh string job it doesn't move until a second set, this one started moving even the crosses after about three short games!). Is this probably because of the string itself (Gamma Syn Gut 16 @ 60#) or maybe poor technique in stringing?

It's the string

Also, I found that on the practice racquets I had to straighten the strings after the job was finished...is it more advisable to straighten while I string so that it stays in place better as I pull tension on on the next set of crosses?

Regardless, you'll still end up straightening them at the end. However, it's a good idea to straighten them while tension is applied to the crosses... the final tension will be more accurate.

Lastly, is it advisable that I increase tension by a few pounds, like 2-4, on the last mains and the last cross? I've heard this is a very common technique but at the same time many people claim it's a waste since with most racquets hitting in those regions normally isn't a forgiving spot. However my goal is consistency in the stringbed, so would it be advisable to raise tension by, say, 3# on the last mains and the last cross?

It's really unnecessary, although some stringers do this to make up any tension loss caused by the knots. If the tension on the last mains and crosses if off a couple pounds, it won't be noticeable. Don't lose sleep over it.

Thanks again for the help, especially on the adapter...worked great, don't think the frame deformed much at all (then again this was a real racquet and not a $15 racquet from 6 years ago lmao).

I haven't noticed any deformation on any of the hundreds of racquets I've strung on the X-2. However, sometimes when releasing the racquet after stringing... it will pop up and off the plastic spacers... So, the spacers did their job.

See above for comments...

[bladepdb]

Thanks a bunch for the help Bud. Appreciate it, and I look forward to having the confidence to string my K90 after a couple more racquets I want it to be perfect the first time on the K90 lol.

[Jhm37]

Sounds like you're having a good time with your X-2.

I'm just a casual stringer with my X-2, mainly stringing for myself and a few friends, but those K90s near the end of the crosses have the most string congestion of any racquet I've ever worked with. You might need a little extra time finishing them off. It helps to keep the string tip sharp and to use needle nose pliers to push/pull the string through the congestion. Not much room for the final knot either.

I'm still looking for my ideal K90 set up as well, but right now I'm enjoying a poor man's hybrid. Gosen SP 17 in the mains with Ashaway Liberty 16 in the crosses. The Gosen is one of the softest polys on the market, though the tension loss is a little more than most. That's a decent trade off for me since I saved money by buying a reel and don't feel bad about cutting them out quicker than I would most other strings.

I wouldn't recommend stringing your racquet with only the Ashaway or using them in the mains in some other hybrid set-up because it moves far too much. It's strictly a cross string for me.

You might want to give it a shot. Soft poly/syn-gut hybrid experiments don't come much cheaper than that.

[bladepdb]

Yeah I am Jhm!

I strung my 4th racquet today, another real racquet, no trouble whatsoever and finished in 1 hr 15 mins, good clean knots and all lol. Feel good about moving up the K6.1 Tour now.

Thanks for the heads up suggestion on the K6.1 Tour Jhm. I actually looked at the Gosen string a bit and was interested in trying out their string since it's relatively inexpensive...good to know it has high tension loss beforehand though lol. I have several strings on my list to try first: Pro Supex, Topspin Cyberflash polys with most likely Gosen OG Sheep or PSGD in crosses.