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Old 01-31-2010, 02:04 PM   #21
xFullCourtTenniSx
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Originally Posted by cesarmo03 View Post
full court what do u mean about this? Not even all pros use racket customized to SW2 status (Verdasco comes to mind)
Verdasco has a unstrung swingweight of 295 from what I hear. Might even be strung specs... Either way, that's FAR from SW2 status. Federer also isn't in the SW2 range. His racket's swingweight is 338 strung, slightly higher than a stock K90 (cause Nate Ferguson sneaks in a little lead under the bumper). Nadal's is 355, which I suppose could be SW2 for his left hand? Otherwise, it's still relatively low.

More often than not, it's the depolarized rackets that are in the SW2 status. Polarized rackets don't go that high possibly to retain some more maneuverability so that players can whip through the ball really quickly. But then you have to lower the tension even more due to further lack of power...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Funbun View Post
Why is it that you get less spin with a depolarized setup? I thought you would get more upwards momentum because there's more weight on the sides of the racquet, therefore a faster swing. I thought weight on the poles of the racquet (aka polarized setup) only gave you more plowthrough, not spin.

Is there something wrong with my reasoning?

Also, if I'm wrong (which I'll most likely be), would adding a tad bit of lead tape at 12 increase the amount of spin by a little in a depolarized setup?
Well, if you thought that because of weight on the side of the racket, imagine what you could do if it was all moved to the very tip and you had the ability to whip that upwards... Now that's some SERIOUS upward momentum. Haha. I would know... I was addicted to it for some time 2 years ago.

And yeah, adding a little lead at 12 would help a little with spin potential.

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Originally Posted by gflyer View Post
Great thread! Thank you!
I am still trying to metabolize all these new info.
I do have one question.
What is the polarization of the stock racquets?
Are in some kind of "neutral" polarization?
if not, how to tell if a stock racquet is more polarized or depolarized?
My apologies if my question doesn't make sense.
cheers,
g
The setups on stock rackets vary... They're usually close somewhat to "neutral"... Some are so far off you can tell right off the bat...

And you can tell by looking at the stock specs. Since polarized rackets have weight towards the poles, it's reasonable to expect that if balance and mass are the same, the more polarized racket has the higher swingweight.

There's also the option of going out and playing with it. A polarized racket should offer more spin and power given the similar specs. The depolarized out should be better on slices and volleys (granted that it's stable up at net).

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Originally Posted by matchmaker View Post
What does the OP think of long strips of lead tape?
Stylish.

Long strips of lead tape aren't all that uncommon at all. Delpo uses/used them, Roddick uses them, Blake uses them, Safin uses/used them, and Sampras used/uses them. They require less layers and are less likely to fall off (never had that problem though).

As for turning bad racket into good rackets, not always possible. You can't change flex, improve feel, or reduce the built-in trampoline effect of some rackets. (cough cough Wilson Hyper Hammer cough cough)

However, I'm wondering if you've tried silicone in the handle (with lead weights. That for one helps mute feel a little from what I hear. But you still have the problems with the trampoline effect (string incredibly high with a poly? lol), and the problems with stiffness. Only so much you can do with a racket...
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Old 01-31-2010, 02:15 PM   #22
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xFullCourtTenniSx, what do you think is the best place for adding lead to gain more control?
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Old 01-31-2010, 02:56 PM   #23
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xFullCourtTenniSx, what do you think is the best place for adding lead to gain more control?
Depends on your definition of control and how you obtain it...

Personally, for pinpoint accuracy I prefer 3&9. But control through consistency and angles, long strips at 12 because the spin friendliness is a great way to control the ball.

Overall, I suppose 3&9... But I feel lead at 12 really allows you to open up the court if you have the right strokes simply because the ball drops so incredibly well that you have more court to work with and can go for more daring shots with ease. But like I said, you need to have the right strokes for it.
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Old 01-31-2010, 02:56 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by xFullCourtTenniSx View Post
Honestly, nothing on swingweight unless you have a Babolat RDC. And sadly, yes, swingweight is the key ingredient to making 2 rackets feel the same. But different people have different preferences. As you know, it's not always possible to match EVERY spec perfectly everytime, so pros generally have a list of which are more important to match compared to the others. Some like balance the most, some like mass, some like swingweight. Sampras was a tough guy to work for because he wanted all 3 the same. Good thing his rackets had so much lead added to them, otherwise it might have been a serious headache for Nate Ferguson.

I'd start off by trying to match them before I add weight, then I can add the same amount of weight to all of them. Or, if I know which racket I like, I'll treat any racket heavier as if it had a little weight already added somewhere. Then I just calculate how much less weight I have to put in a general location to have it come out about the same. And any racket that's lighter, I add weight so that the specs are matched. Sadly, it's tough to match the swingweight without a Babolat RDC machine unless you're Pete Sampras.
Thanks for that information, I appreciate it. In the next few weeks I'm hoping to match a few racquets as precisely as i can and this goes a long way to help.
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Old 01-31-2010, 03:22 PM   #25
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Depends on your definition of control and how you obtain it...

Personally, for pinpoint accuracy I prefer 3&9. But control through consistency and angles, long strips at 12 because the spin friendliness is a great way to control the ball.

Overall, I suppose 3&9... But I feel lead at 12 really allows you to open up the court if you have the right strokes simply because the ball drops so incredibly well that you have more court to work with and can go for more daring shots with ease. But like I said, you need to have the right strokes for it.
By control I mean the ability to hit balls on the rise with ease, to hit sidespin, and to take huge cuts at the ball without fear of overhitting. I have played with some friend's racquets that have a huge amount of control, and I want to make my racquet play similar.
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:40 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by ronalditop View Post
By control I mean the ability to hit balls on the rise with ease, to hit sidespin, and to take huge cuts at the ball without fear of overhitting. I have played with some friend's racquets that have a huge amount of control, and I want to make my racquet play similar.
Hmmm... The last 2 for sure can be done with the polarized setup... The thing hits with so much spin it's just insane.

Balls on the rise I'd probably prefer the depolarized setup just slightly due to the stability factor.

Overall, you can just get a polarized setup, then add some lead at 3&9 to gain stability for those baseline half volley pickups. But if we're talking about the regular concept of on the rise, then either work fine... I just feel that it's not on the rise unless it's a half volley. Haha. Played on the rise for most of my tennis development...
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:55 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by xFullCourtTenniSx View Post
Hmmm... The last 2 for sure can be done with the polarized setup... The thing hits with so much spin it's just insane.

Balls on the rise I'd probably prefer the depolarized setup just slightly due to the stability factor.

Overall, you can just get a polarized setup, then add some lead at 3&9 to gain stability for those baseline half volley pickups. But if we're talking about the regular concept of on the rise, then either work fine... I just feel that it's not on the rise unless it's a half volley. Haha. Played on the rise for most of my tennis development...
Ok thanks for your help.
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Old 02-01-2010, 10:47 AM   #28
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Hey FullCourt, cool thread!!

What would you think is the difference (if any) in putting the same amount of lead in either:

One inch strips layered on top of each other at 10:00 and 2:00

or

Long strip(s) around the top of the hoop from 10:00 to 2:00 to equal the same amount of weight as the 1" strips above

I currently use weight at 10 and 2 mostly to pull the sweet spot farther toward the top so I can pound shots that make contact in the upper half of the stringbed without killing my arm.

Thanks in advance, Mike
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:02 PM   #29
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for applying lead tape under the grip in the handle, how do you apply it?

do a ring around the entire handle?

lay it down veritcally?

example: adding 4g of lead at 7" above buttcap.
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:03 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by mike53 View Post
Hey FullCourt, cool thread!!

What would you think is the difference (if any) in putting the same amount of lead in either:

One inch strips layered on top of each other at 10:00 and 2:00

or

Long strip(s) around the top of the hoop from 10:00 to 2:00 to equal the same amount of weight as the 1" strips above

I currently use weight at 10 and 2 mostly to pull the sweet spot farther toward the top so I can pound shots that make contact in the upper half of the stringbed without killing my arm.

Thanks in advance, Mike
The latter scenario has increased swingweight, increased power, increased plow through, increased spin potential, lowered stability, and drags the sweetspot farther up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt H. View Post
for applying lead tape under the grip in the handle, how do you apply it?

do a ring around the entire handle?

lay it down veritcally?

example: adding 4g of lead at 7" above buttcap.
I wrap it around in a ring. I try to spread it out if one ring creates too much of a noticeable bulge. It's actually surprising how much it takes to create a really noticeable one. You'll feel it slightly for sure, but it's not all that big.
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:33 PM   #31
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Contrary to popular belief, you should never stick or add anything inside the handle or buttcap. This method actually makes your racquet unstable in it's swing path. Only add weight (lead tape) to the outside of the handle, underneath the grip, and only above the 10cm mark.
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:49 AM   #32
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Contrary to popular belief, you should never stick or add anything inside the handle or buttcap. This method actually makes your racquet unstable in it's swing path. Only add weight (lead tape) to the outside of the handle, underneath the grip, and only above the 10cm mark.
Then I guess many pros love unstable rackets and many professional customizers love creating them...

Silicone in the handle is a very frequently used method to add weight, and is done INSIDE the handle...
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:35 AM   #33
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When adding weight 7" above the buttcap, would you lead above the grip and under your overgrip? Or under everything, which seems like such a hassle
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:39 PM   #34
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When adding weight 7" above the buttcap, would you lead above the grip and under your overgrip? Or under everything, which seems like such a hassle
It's not really a hassle... But it's your choice... I'd rather not have to replace the lead everytime I replace the grip...
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Old 02-03-2010, 07:27 AM   #35
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Then I guess many pros love unstable rackets and many professional customizers love creating them...

Silicone in the handle is a very frequently used method to add weight, and is done INSIDE the handle...
Yeah, this seems like a strange pronouncement considering how prevalent it is to add weight inside the handle in various ways.

Also, to report back on my experiment - adding lead to the handle by cutting .5" lead into 1/2" x 1/2" squares, stacking them and gluing the stack to the underside of the buttcap - I have not had any problem with the stack coming loose. I guess I assumed, wrongly perhaps, that swinging the frames would put pressure on the adhesive. But perhaps since there's nothing coming into contact with the stack there's no force pushing against it. So this seems like it might be a nice alternative to fishing weights, it keeps the weight right at the bottom of the handle (I prefer to place the lead at the bottom of the handle rather than 7" up), it's a very quick thing to do, and it's easily reversible and adjustable. I'm using a pretty tall stacks (20" of .5" lead, so 40 .5" squares stacked on top of one another) and they haven't budged in the half dozen outings with my new frames.
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:30 PM   #36
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Are there any downsides to adding lead?
It sounds like my options are more spin & whip (polarized) or more stability and power (depolarized).
Who wouldn't take one of those?
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:33 PM   #37
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Are there any downsides to adding lead?
It sounds like my options are more spin & whip (polarized) or more stability and power (depolarized).
Who wouldn't take one of those?
More mass means more tiring over the long haul. Higher swingweight means more force is required to get it going in a swing. Basically you need a strong body.
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:49 PM   #38
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More mass means more tiring over the long haul. Higher swingweight means more force is required to get it going in a swing. Basically you need a strong body.
And I'd add to that that you need solid technique. I think it's tough for hackers or sub-4.0 players to wield a heavier, head-light (more lead in or on the handle than on the hoop) frame. But once you have solid mechanics and timing and you're using your legs and core for strength and balance coupled with a loose arm and hand for racquet-head speed, using a heavier, head-light frame is a big advantage both for your game and your physical well-being (particularly your arm).
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:14 PM   #39
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And I'd add to that that you need solid technique. I think it's tough for hackers or sub-4.0 players to wield a heavier, head-light (more lead in or on the handle than on the hoop) frame. But once you have solid mechanics and timing and you're using your legs and core for strength and balance coupled with a loose arm and hand for racquet-head speed, using a heavier, head-light frame is a big advantage both for your game and your physical well-being (particularly your arm).
It's because you need to bring in your own power.
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:03 AM   #40
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Hey Fullcourt, great thread. Thanks for all the info.

Here's a question: if I have 3g of lead at 12 under the bumper, what would you recommend for the handle weight between the choice of:
1. a leather grip, or
2.a synthetic grip with 5g lead wrapped at the top of the handle?
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