Eagnas Flex 940 swivel clamp issues

[mad dog1]

Originally Posted by tbuggle

i don't think he was implying that the machine wobbled, but rather that the guy rocked it to and fro and it didn't wobble.

and disc brakes don't cause any wobble, the disc has enough free play on the bolts so that it doesn't affect the turning table at all.

tbuggle, thanks for helping to clarify what i was trying to explain. that's exactly what i meant.

i agree w/ you that the disc brake isn't the cause of the wobble.

[mad dog1]

Originally Posted by Lakers4Life

I think it's the disc brake that causes some of the wobble.

i don't think the disc brake causes the wobble as the neos 1000 utilitzes the same disc brake and has no wobble. i believe it's the mfg tolerances. the 910/940 turntable post just fits much looser than the neos1000 post.

[alcheng]

So far I haven't experienced any wobble or rocking from my 910, either with the disc brake on or off.

The only problem, or issue I have is the clamp-base get loose very easy, I have to push the base-handle further and further during the string-job. I'm thinking about putting some lock-tite on the lock-nut underneath the clamp-base.

cheers

[tbuggle]

Originally Posted by alcheng

So far I haven't experienced any wobble or rocking from my 910, either with the disc brake on or off.

The only problem, or issue I have is the clamp-base get loose very easy, I have to push the base-handle further and further during the string-job. I'm thinking about putting some lock-tite on the lock-nut underneath the clamp-base.

cheers

there two nuts. tighten them against each other. 'might even consider a lock washer between the 2 nuts, but loc-tite should work fine.

[lawdog]

I wouldn't put lock-tite on the nut underneath the clamp base. Tbuggle is right, tightening the nuts against each other is sufficient.

You need to open the clamp base on put something on the threads of the adjustment screw. Here's what's going on inside the clamp: When you turn the clamp's handle, a little plug pushes against the center of the base, locking clamp in place. The adjustment screw for the clamp base moves this plug closer or further from the center of the base, tightening or loosening the clamp base. The clamp bases come with some thread-lock goo on the threads of the adjustment screw. If you played around with the screw a bunch (like I did) by over-loosening and over-tightening the clamp, then you pushed most of the goo to the outer edges of the threads. As a result, each time you turn the handle, the adjustment screw is pushed a little further into the little plug, loosening the clamp base. I fixed this by opening up the clamp and pushing the goo back onto the threads of the adjustment screw. Alternatively, you could add some more goo to the threads, but I wouldn't use lock-tite. The object is to make the threads harder to turn but still adjustable. Lock-tite would lock them in place, but the benefit would be gone once you moved the screw and broke the seal.

The goo that comes with the clamps is sort of the consistency of grease but doesn't have the same lubricating properties. In fact, it does just the opposite, making the threads harder to turn. I can't remember what that stuff is called. Anyone out there know?

I don't think you want to use anything that will lock these threads. Instead, you just want something that sort of snugs them up. Make sense?

[alcheng]

I wouldn't put lock-tite onto the set-screw, but the two lock-nut under the clamp-base underneath the turn table

[lawdog]

Understood, but that won't solve your problem, unless you have the clamp improperly attached to the rail (i.e., you don't have the two nuts tightened against each other).

[tbuggle]

Originally Posted by lawdog

Understood, but that won't solve your problem, unless you have the clamp improperly attached to the rail (i.e., you don't have the two nuts tightened against each other).

agreed, loc-tite on the lock-nuts can't hurt and may not help, but DON'T put
loc-tite on the set screw. i don't know what the stuff is like (haven't had my clamps apart yet, i'll wait til i need to) that you speak of, but seems it would be a common adjustable set screw glue/goop. maybe i'll do a search!!

edit: i reckon it's not really a set screw, but an adjustment screw.

[lawdog]

Originally Posted by tbuggle

i don't know what the stuff is like (haven't had my clamps apart yet, i'll wait til i need to) that you speak of, but seems it would be a common adjustable set screw glue/goop. maybe i'll do a search!!

edit: i reckon it's not really a set screw, but an adjustment screw.

That's exactly what it is. I just can't remember what the stuff is called.

[tbuggle]

Originally Posted by lawdog

That's exactly what it is. I just can't remember what the stuff is called.

a buddy of mine suggested pipe joint compound.

what does the stuff in the clamp look like? is it white-ish?

[lawdog]

Originally Posted by tbuggle

a buddy of mine suggested pipe joint compound.

what does the stuff in the clamp look like? is it white-ish?

Brown. It looked like auto grease and had the same consistency, but was sort of tacky.

[Jack the Hack]

Folks,

I have a Flex 940 that is about 8 years old, and one of my ConeLock clamp bases stripped out and would no longer lock down. In an attempt to fix it, I tried to disassemble the clamp to figure out which part needed to be replaced. As I was doing this, I found that the "channel nut" that fits into the slot on the base was locked/stripped into place and that I could not easily unscrew it. Using two lock grips, I tried to force it, and the entire bolt sheared in half!!! Here's an exploded view of the results:



I e-mailed Maxline/Eagnas to find out how much it would cost to replace the parts, but did not get a reply in a timely manner. Meanwhile, I really needed to string my racquets as I had broken the strings in all my personal frames and wanted to get back out on the court (without having to pay for a tennis store to string the racquets).

After reading through this thread, I made a short trip down to our local Lowe's Home Improvement store and purchased the following items:

• 138188 Metric Wing Nut 8MM-1.25 for $1.09
• 138144 Metric Flat Washers 8MM for $0.80
• 138129 Hex Head Bolt 8MM-1.24X50MM for $0.92
• 138182 Metric Hex Nuts 8MM (5) for $0.76

The total spend was $3.86 with tax.

When I got home, I used some WD40 and lock grips to get the old "channel nut" off of the broken bolt. I then used the new bolt, 2 of the new washers, 2 of the new nuts, the old swivel base, the 4 old top washers, and the new wing nut to reassemle the base. Here is a view of what I put together and how it looks assembled:





The new mechanism now clamps on and off by a simple turn of the wing nut and seems to work fine. I've strung 2 racquets since trying this and the base locks down like it should.

To note, I only string about 25 or 30 frames per year, so I don't heavily use the machine and I don't care about speed when stringing. I do look at this as a temporary solution until I can do a more permanent one that might work better. If I was stringing professionally, perhaps the wing nut would not be fun or efficient to use. However, it sure was cheap, and I thought I share in case someone else runs into a similar jam.

[JetFlyr]

I've had a Flex 940 for nearly five years and it's been a really reliable machine. I've used a Wise on it since the first week.

My only real complaint with the 940 is that the turntable continually wobbles. It seems I have to take an Allen wrench to the main bolt under the turntable every 3-4 frames to tighten it, only to have it loosen (and wobble again) after a few more frames. I've tried Lok-tite, but that didn't seem to work very well. Does anyone know of a viable solution to stop this wobbling??

[Tugotti]

I know this thread is a little old maybe the user is still on here I was wondering how this set up buying from McMaster went?

Originally Posted by Sizz

I jumped the gun and swung by mcmaster to get the following:

2 Each 94750A582 Black-Oxide Steel Full-Thread T-Slot Nut 3/8"-16 Thread Size, for 1/2" Slot Width $2.43
2 Each 6271K29 Die Cast Zinc Adjustable Handle 3/8"-16 Thread X 2-3/8" L Stud, 2-9/16" L Handle $8.56
2 Each 5909K11 Cage Assembly for 10 mm Shaft Diameter, 24mm OD Steel Thrust Needle-Roller Bearing $3.17
4 Each 5909K71 1 mm Thick Washer for 10 mm Shaft Diameter Steel Thrust Needle-Roller Bearing $1.08

Every piece looks stout so I'm hoping this will last. The adjustable handle can't strip out like the original one piece. The bearings are much higher quality also. Ken, Can you post that info here for others to see? I assume this is a common problem.

[Irvin]

Originally Posted by Tugotti

I know this thread is a little old maybe the user is still on here I was wondering how this set up buying from McMaster went?

His last post was in July of 2010 but he does accept emails maybe you should send him one if you want the answer