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Old 09-06-2012, 09:56 AM   #161
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If you gotta STOP to make a left, by all means, SIGNAL so the guy behind knows what you're doing!!!!!
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Old 09-10-2012, 04:17 PM   #162
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Rode 39.9 miles this Sunday, taking on the WildcatCanyon climb at mile 23. About 500' elevation change. I"m no climber, that's for sure, but enough cars and motorcycles passed me that I needed to finish the climb and get out of their way.
The descent was kinda cool, staying with most cars, getting passed only on the longer straightaways, and frying the brakes to stay attached.
Ride took almost 4 hours, the climb averaging close to 6 mph foreever.
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:31 AM   #163
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Anyone have experience with electric-assisted bikes? I'm researching them as a zero(almost)-carbonfootprint form of commuting 36 miles (roundtrip) daily. There's a guy selling a German line out of Portland, OR but I have no way to testride before purchase.
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:26 PM   #164
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18 each way is a good commute distance, taking about and hour and a half pedelling.
Without the motor, you'd need about 15 rides to settle in on the distance.
I'd consider checking traffic laws in your area also, as here, you cannot ride on the sidewalk with mechanical powered bikes. Also, you might be subject to stringent enforcement of all the traffic rules in your area.
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:37 PM   #165
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I ride a 1999 Marin Rift Zone mountain bike. I used to ride several times a week. I got married and that changed to once or twice a month. Had kids and that changed to a couple of times a year.

Now I am 45 and beginning to hit the trails again. The only two problems are that my fearlessness is gone, and although I remember how to ride, my body won't do what I want it to.

I have begun to ride to work and enjoy that greatly. I have to keep shoes at work since I don't have actual pedals.
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:40 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stringertom View Post
Anyone have experience with electric-assisted bikes? I'm researching them as a zero(almost)-carbonfootprint form of commuting 36 miles (roundtrip) daily. There's a guy selling a German line out of Portland, OR but I have no way to testride before purchase.
I have seen the Trek electric bikes - quite neat and reliable. They are very fast and for most folks, they have to tone down the acceleration from the start. They are not cheap and are quite heavy, so don't expect to carry them up any stairways.

If you don't have much in hills for your commute, I think you'd be better off without the electric.
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:40 PM   #167
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Mortality is closer to your conscious brain as you get older. Try a backpack.
Get different pedals.
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:21 PM   #168
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I rode 16 miles today, I'm sure ill ride tomorrow too. I've been getting neck pain lately, hopefully I can find a way to resolve this.

Last edited by quest01 : 09-26-2012 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:48 PM   #169
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I rode 16 miles today, I'm sure ill ride tomorrow too. I've been getting neck pain lately, hopefully I can find a way to resolve this.
Neck and shoulder pain is usually caused by having to reach too far. You need either a shorter stem to shorten the reach (from saddle to handlebar) and/or a stem with a higher angle to raise the bars (too much difference between saddle height and handlebar height causing you to lean forward too much).
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:20 AM   #170
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Carbon-tipped forks on a commuter hybrid...do they really quiet the vibration for a 35-mile ride daily?
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:19 AM   #171
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Vibration, maybe. Impact and shock, less so. Carbon is only good for it's lightweight, not much else.
17 miles each way is a good commute, and will require some practice to get used to it. More important than composition of the forks is to get a good, stable riding position that your body can handle. Note... Tour riders ride with their seats FOUR inches higher than their handlebars. You and I cannot ride with that setup without breaking our necks.
Use big tires, lower than max air pressures.
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:53 AM   #172
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I personally prefer steel. It justs absorbs the shock better. Of course I am leaving winter parks brick roads before I hit the smooth trails.
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Old 09-27-2012, 10:55 AM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeD View Post
Note... Tour riders ride with their seats FOUR inches higher than their handlebars. You and I cannot ride with that setup without breaking our necks.
Use big tires, lower than max air pressures
.
Completely agree with the bolded part.
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:36 AM   #174
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Carbon-tipped forks on a commuter hybrid...do they really quiet the vibration for a 35-mile ride daily?
Carbon forks are really intended to reduce weight. Carbon does absorb shock well but overall bike design is important too. Aluminum is a fairly soft material (think soda can) that can be made into a very compliant bike (like the olf Alan and Vitus bikes) as well as super stiff (old Cannondale race bikes).

The best way to minimize road shock is wider tires (700x28 to 700x32 is ideal for commuting) at low pressure, handlebar tape and padded gloves & shorts.

My personal favorite tires for commuting & touring are Rivendell Rolly Polys and Ruffy Tuffys (they're made by Panaracer for Rivendell). They are relatively lightweight, good road grip and supple ride. Andy Hampsten, former top US racer, uses these on his bike for which he leads cycling tours in Tuscany. http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/t104.htm
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:40 AM   #175
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Weight seems a real problem with all steel bikes. The lightest I can afford, in the $1,200 range, weigh in right at 23 lbs for a 56cm frame. My CannondaleCaad8-6 weights right at 20.2lbs. 2. something lbs. might not matter much for riding in the flats, but it's huge where climbing is a constant factor, and most double chain ring guys are using granny gear most of the climbs, even the racers.
I like steel, use it on my mountain bike, but the road is another story. Cushy grip tape, standing up just off the seat, relaxed arms, more resilent wheels, and slightly lower pressures on my 700x23 tires sorta helps somewhat.
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:16 PM   #176
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My steel bike weighs 18 pounds because I converted it to a fixed gear.

It is now a relatively inexpensive, but high quality steelFuji frame from the early 80s.
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:24 PM   #177
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I'll stick with my triple chainrings, headlight, taillight, 2 water bottle cages, heavy SPD pedals, tool sack, and heavy, sturdy tires for my needs.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:30 PM   #178
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I just finished rode biking 29 miles. It was a nice, scenic route where I passed through corn fields, a county forest, farms, streams, and I was chased by a dog too. It was a small dog, I'm not sure of the breed. My neck is still bothering me, I did raise the handlebars a little before riding and it still hurt after I finished.
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Old 09-27-2012, 01:37 PM   #179
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That neck will hurt until you have finished at least 30 rides that distance, at which point you learn to stretch and adjust while riding, your muscles get stronger, and you start to worry about your butt and other things.
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Old 09-28-2012, 03:10 PM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeD View Post
That neck will hurt until you have finished at least 30 rides that distance, at which point you learn to stretch and adjust while riding, your muscles get stronger, and you start to worry about your butt and other things.
I went on a 16 mile ride today and my neck actually felt better today. I felt like I wasn't getting enough power from my legs so I raised the seat just a tad and for whatever reason I felt better. I decided to take a new route and I went through this area where it had a nice creek and waterfall, I had to stop and take a picture of it. It was a nice, scenic route, with a bunch of farms, and most importantly very little traffic. It's funny when I ride by farms, horses rarely ever stare at me, when I try to get their attention, they don't care but cows do. I went by a farm and every single cow, around 20 of them stared at me.
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