Is it the string or the stringer?

[LanEvo]

Hey guys, so these past couple days, I have strung about 4 racquets. On the first two I used a poly and a syn gut to string. However, on the last 2, they were both full poly's, but I found that the gripper was slipping, and whenever I would ratchet, it would slip and then after ratcheting some more it would finally settle. I was stringing with Lux Adrenaline Rough and some WC Scorpion, it was weird, I have never had that happen before and it did not do that on the first 2 racquet. I am stringing on an older model of the Gamma FC 6pt. Fixed Dropweight machine. Can anyone give me a bit of feedback? I checked the whole thing, and all the screws were tightly screwed on.

[fortun8son]

Try cleaning with alcohol and a shoelace.

[diredesire]

Originally Posted by LanEvo

Hey guys, so these past couple days, I have strung about 4 racquets. On the first two I used a poly and a syn gut to string. However, on the last 2, they were both full poly's, but I found that the gripper was slipping, and whenever I would ratchet, it would slip and then after ratcheting some more it would finally settle. I was stringing with Lux Adrenaline Rough and some WC Scorpion, it was weird, I have never had that happen before and it did not do that on the first 2 racquet. I am stringing on an older model of the Gamma FC 6pt. Fixed Dropweight machine. Can anyone give me a bit of feedback? I checked the whole thing, and all the screws were tightly screwed on.

You can disassemble the tension jaws and replace or clean the mildly abrasive surface. Another option is to wrap twice around the drum before inserting the string into the jaw. The required back tension from the jaw clamping down will be reduced this way. This will obviously only help you so far on the string job, as the last few strings (mains/crosses) will likely slip. Step 1 is to clean your gripper. Additionally, you can use a starting clamp (Or a spare floater, if there's one handy) to back up the gripper if cleaning doesn't help.

[kopfan]

Most poly string had a slippery coating that will left residue on gripper. Sometime you do not see slippage issue are more likely you string syn, multi after stringing poly as residue get onto the non poly string. Always clean the gripper with rubbing alcohol after a few poly string job or alternately string poly and non poly.

[LanEvo]

Alright, thanks for the advice guys, I will be cleaning the stringer soon then.

[Macedo]

One question_ Is it recommendable cleaning the lock-out too?

[diredesire]

Originally Posted by Macedo

One question_ Is it recommendable cleaning the lock-out too?

What exactly are you referring to? OP has a drum (if i'm not mistaken) machine. Are you referring to a crank (off topic)? If so, yes, you should be cleaning the gripper plates every so often, and making sure it's adjusted properly when you string. Don't go too crazy, though, there are ball bearings in many linear grippers that might not roll so well with cleaner residue on them.

[LanEvo]

Originally Posted by diredesire

What exactly are you referring to? OP has a drum (if i'm not mistaken) machine. Are you referring to a crank (off topic)? If so, yes, you should be cleaning the gripper plates every so often, and making sure it's adjusted properly when you string. Don't go too crazy, though, there are ball bearings in many linear grippers that might not roll so well with cleaner residue on them.

Yep mine is a drum.

[LeeD]

When I was stringing 30 years ago, it was a given to clean all parts at least once every 4 string jobs. We hated doing it, it was smelly, it was pauper's work, but we did it.

[Maui19]

I always wrap around the drum twice when stringing poly. That takes care of any slipping issues.

[Lakers4Life]

Originally Posted by diredesire

What exactly are you referring to? OP has a drum (if i'm not mistaken) machine. Are you referring to a crank (off topic)? If so, yes, you should be cleaning the gripper plates every so often, and making sure it's adjusted properly when you string. Don't go too crazy, though, there are ball bearings in many linear grippers that might not roll so well with cleaner residue on them.

+1

I agree with DD, the ball bearings should not be cleaned, as they may rust if using a a water based product or alcohol. If that does occur, lubricate with oil or even better grease. WD-40 is good for a short time, as it dries out quickly. A PTFE grease, like Grease Lightening or CLP Break Free is what I use.


As for RPM Blast, it has a PTFE (Teflon) coating which transfers to the gripping surface of the tensioner.

[diredesire]

Originally Posted by Lakers4Life

+1

I agree with DD, the ball bearings should not be cleaned, as they may rust if using a a water based product or alcohol. If that does occur, lubricate with oil or even better grease. WD-40 is good for a short time, as it dries out quickly. A PTFE grease, like Grease Lightening or CLP Break Free is what I use.


As for RPM Blast, it has a PTFE (Teflon) coating which transfers to the gripping surface of the tensioner.

It should be noted that WD-40 isn't designed (really) to be a "lubricant". It's designed to be used to disperse water (hence, the "W.D."). Most people USE it as a lubricant, but you know... Silicone spray would work OK here, too.

(Another note: PTFE is the industry abbreviation for teflon).

[Lakers4Life]

Originally Posted by diredesire

It should be noted that WD-40 isn't designed (really) to be a "lubricant". It's designed to be used to disperse water (hence, the "W.D."). Most people USE it as a lubricant, but you know... Silicone spray would work OK here, too.

(Another note: PTFE is the industry abbreviation for teflon).

I mainly use WD-40 for rusted bolts. It can be used as a pre-lubricant, before applying grease.

PTFE is to Teflon, as Aramid is to Kevlar. Most people know the Brand name and not the common name.

[mad dog1]

welcome back, lakers4life!

[diredesire]

Originally Posted by Lakers4Life

I mainly use WD-40 for rusted bolts. It can be used as a pre-lubricant, before applying grease.

PTFE is to Teflon, as Aramid is to Kevlar. Most people know the Brand name and not the common name.

Yep, I figured you'd know both, it's just a PSA for those out there trying to shoehorn either of the above. Often times Teflon spray is easier to find than "PTFE" in a store

[Lakers4Life]

Originally Posted by mad dog1

welcome back, lakers4life!

Thanks, I finally got some free time again.

Originally Posted by diredesire

Yep, I figured you'd know both, it's just a PSA for those out there trying to shoehorn either of the above. Often times Teflon spray is easier to find than "PTFE" in a store

Teflon is a licened brand, just like Kevlar. Not all products can use the brand name without paying some license fee.

FWIW, I was at Lowes a while back, and noticed a PTFE base oil lubricant on the check out isle. I can't remember the brand, but it was a well known name. It was reasonably priced at less than $5.

[diredesire]

Originally Posted by Lakers4Life

Thanks, I finally got some free time again.



Teflon is a licened brand, just like Kevlar. Not all products can use the brand name without paying some license fee.

FWIW, I was at Lowes a while back, and noticed a PTFE base oil lubricant on the check out isle. I can't remember the brand, but it was a well known name. It was reasonably priced at less than $5.

Yes, yes, I'm aware of the nuance. When was the last time you've heard a casual player refer to an "aramid" string, though? It's sort of like Kleenex vs facial tissue. Good tip on the Lowe's PTFE, I may have to check that out. I rarely find myself in a Lowe's though.. apartment dwelling isn't as motivating when it comes to hardware stores