Pacific Classic 1.25 x MSV Co-Focus 1.18

[Ross K]

Originally Posted by jk175d

co-focus is pretty long lasting for a poly. And the thing is, the gut in the mains mitigates the dead feel of the poly to some degree. Remember, most of the feel of the stringbed comes from the mains, the crosses are more of the stabilizer in a hybrid.

That said, I found with the gut/co-focus set up that the cofocus would go through a "dying" stage around 8-12 hrs where I didn't like it so much, seemed to lose the control and feel, but once it got past that to the "dead" stage it would feel great again until the mains broke.

BUT... I've also moved on to a different poly cross, Solinco Outlast, which I feel always lasts the life of the gut mains, which for me is anywhere from 15-30 hrs. And the thing about Outlast, is it doesn't evelove through the different stages. It feels almost exactly the same from day one until the gut mains break. It's also a little crisper than co-focus which can be a little mushy on a flexy frame like the Tour 100.

Very interesting.

Q... What other polys out there apart from Outlast last the life of the gut mains - 15-30 hrs?

[DarkCloud]

What would be the difference in using pacific tough gut instead of classic in this setup?

[JT_2eighty]

Originally Posted by DarkCloud

What would be the difference in using pacific tough gut instead of classic in this setup?

Tough is bit stiffer which I have found it to have better control than Classic, with less power too. Classic probably has better feel and power, with Tough having a crisper, 'sharper' feel to it (maybe a touch less pocketing than Classic). I seem to have better durability with Tough as well, and like the way it pairs with a poly cross, to me it blends better with poly than Classic, as it also notches less quickly than Classic. For those who find the notching aids the spin (gut oils seeping out and all that), I haven't noticed much difference in spin between the two. But I hit a flatter ball. Spin for me (i.e. kick serving) comes easier when I drop to the 17 gauge from the 16L. And Tough 17 is the most durable 17g gut I've used.

[lcalamar]

I'm just testing out Tough Gut instead of Classic Gut - due to durability issues with Classic Gut. I hit with the Tough Gut (52) and Co-Poly(49) today for the first time. I also had string savers in. The Tough Gut is a bit stiffer and there is not the pocketing and power you get with Classic. Some of this may also be due to the string savers. I didnt have a great day hitting so I'll reserve final judgement - but I'm going to restring my 2nd racket with the exact same configuration (52/49 and string savers) with the Classic Gut - and we'll see if my impressions hold up

[JT_2eighty]

Originally Posted by lcalamar

I'm just testing out Tough Gut instead of Classic Gut - due to durability issues with Classic Gut. I hit with the Tough Gut (52) and Co-Poly(49) today for the first time. I also had string savers in. The Tough Gut is a bit stiffer and there is not the pocketing and power you get with Classic. Some of this may also be due to the string savers. I didnt have a great day hitting so I'll reserve final judgement - but I'm going to restring my 2nd racket with the exact same configuration (52/49 and string savers) with the Classic Gut - and we'll see if my impressions hold up

I'd say it sounds similar to my experience.

The key with Tough Gut, to me, is to practice a few sessions with it to really get it to settle in. Where it lacks in power and pocketing, it gains in precision and longevity. Once you log a few hours on it, it will play great for many many hours after that. I can easily get 20, 30+ hours of match play on my ToughGut/poly setups. Tough ages like a fine wine, it just gets better and better the longer it stays in the racquet, the pocketing feel will improve as you use it.

[The Big Kahuna]

Originally Posted by JT_2eighty

Tough is bit stiffer which I have found it to have better control than Classic, with less power too. Classic probably has better feel and power, with Tough having a crisper, 'sharper' feel to it (maybe a touch less pocketing than Classic). I seem to have better durability with Tough as well, and like the way it pairs with a poly cross, to me it blends better with poly than Classic, as it also notches less quickly than Classic. For those who find the notching aids the spin (gut oils seeping out and all that), I haven't noticed much difference in spin between the two. But I hit a flatter ball. Spin for me (i.e. kick serving) comes easier when I drop to the 17 gauge from the 16L. And Tough 17 is the most durable 17g gut I've used.

You might also try KLIP Legend Tour 17g.

Highest grade natural gut with tremendous playability. Legend Tour offers 2 coatings providing a livelier feel with more durability. Very responsive string with the uniformly smooth feel of natural gut. 100% Australian. Comes in a non-traditional black color.

It almost feels like gut coated with poly. Very durable. Very crisp feeling gut. Well priced at about $25.

[newyorkstadium]

What about strings with lower string-to-string coefficients of friction? Low friction strings offer more spin.

There are polys with much lower friction then co-focus. Also, some of them have better tension loss.

Likewise there are natural gut strings with lower coefficients of friction then classic gut. These are:

Pacific Prime
Babolat VS Touch
VS Natural Team Gut 17

[Boricua]

Will this Classic mains/ Cofocus crosses setup be ok in a 2013 Aeroprodrive? Not to powerful? What tension would I use? Im trying tcs and 4g but just curious

[Smasher08]

Originally Posted by Boricua

Will this Classic mains/ Cofocus crosses setup be ok in a 2013 Aeroprodrive? Not to powerful? What tension would I use? Im trying tcs and 4g but just curious

Lol you can probably guess what I'm gonna say:

Give it a shot, and string low.

I'd suggest starting right around the bottom of the recommended tension range.

[Smasher08]

Originally Posted by newyorkstadium

What about strings with lower string-to-string coefficients of friction? Low friction strings offer more spin.

There are polys with much lower friction then co-focus. Also, some of them have better tension loss.

Likewise there are natural gut strings with lower coefficients of friction then classic gut. These are:

Pacific Prime
Babolat VS Touch
VS Natural Team Gut 17

Go for it.

One day I'm going to try Wilson 17 mains. I'm sure they'll be fantastic.

But at 50% more cost, I somehow doubt they'll play 50% better.

[newyorkstadium]

What is the longest this setup has lasted?

Did string savers alter the performance? How long do you think it would have lasted without the string savers?

Cheers

[Smasher08]

Originally Posted by newyorkstadium

What is the longest this setup has lasted?

Did string savers alter the performance? How long do you think it would have lasted without the string savers?

Cheers

You'll find the answers to all those questions and more in the pages of this thread.

[newyorkstadium]

Okay, I've found the answers. It lasts:
17-22 without SS
70 with SS

Would you agree with this?

[Smasher08]

Originally Posted by newyorkstadium

Okay, I've found the answers. It lasts:
17-22 without SS
70 with SS

Would you agree with this?

I would agree that myself and others have gotten those results.

Ultimately I would agree that your string longevity can depend on your racket weight, balance, string pattern, string gauge, stroke mechanics and playing style.

And I'd definitely agree that the longevity of this setup is excellent.

[newyorkstadium]

When trying different polys, should I use the TWU tension loss tool? If I use a poly that has less tension loss then co-focus , is this a good/bad thing? What if it had more tension loss?

As far as I can tell, it is the gut breaking that forces a restring.

[The Big Kahuna]

Originally Posted by newyorkstadium

When trying different polys, is it a good idea to use the TW tension loss tool? Is the poly tension loss relevant? As far as I can tell, it is the gut breaking that forces a restring.

Generally, I would agree with that. The cross strings only account for about 15-20% of the overall stringbed performance and feel, IMO. In fact, sometimes the feel of a fairly dead poly (like the MSV I use) and a fraying gut string in the mains the last 10-15 hours can be pretty good. I usually restring after about 30-35 hours regardless - even if the gut has not broken.

[newyorkstadium]

Originally Posted by newyorkstadium

When trying different polys, should I use the TWU tension loss tool? If I use a poly that has less tension loss then co-focus , is this a good/bad thing? What if it had more tension loss?

Bump, as only the latter part has really been answered

[newyorkstadium]

Originally Posted by newyorkstadium

When trying different polys, should I use the TWU tension loss tool? If I use a poly that has less tension loss then co-focus , is this a good/bad thing? What if it had more tension loss?

bump......

[canny]

Was gonna try this. But since Im ordering the new extreme from tennis warehouse I decided to get it strung 60 pounds klip 18g in the mains and 58 pounds of yonex poly spin in the crosses. Im pretty excited. In theory should produce a boat load of spin especially with the extreme. But I also know theoretically the durability should be terrible. But we'll see.

[Smasher08]

Originally Posted by canny

Was gonna try this. But since Im ordering the new extreme from tennis warehouse I decided to get it strung 60 pounds klip 18g in the mains and 58 pounds of yonex poly spin in the crosses. Im pretty excited. In theory should produce a boat load of spin especially with the extreme. But I also know theoretically the durability should be terrible. But we'll see.

Wow, those tensions sound high! But give it a shot and see how it goes.

In theory, the durability could be fairly short, but that would depend on a number of factors including your stroke mechanics. I also wonder how spinny the setup will be at that tension, but the thinner gauge may compensate somewhat, so who knows.

I'm really interested in reading your review! Also, if you want to make it as spinny as possible, ask for the stringer to NOT prestretch it.