Maybe getting a Eagnas...

[Lakers4Life]

Originally Posted by TheLambsheadrep

With water, but with/without soap or other cleaner?

Just water, get most of the grime and dust off first. I say damp, because you don't want the water to stay long.

[TheLambsheadrep]

I've seen other machines that have icons for which side of the machine the head of the racquet and the throat of the racquet should be mounted on. Are there any icons/indicators for the Hawk 80 I'm not seeing, does it matter for this machine?

[tbuggle]

Originally Posted by TheLambsheadrep

I've seen other machines that have icons for which side of the machine the head of the racquet and the throat of the racquet should be mounted on. Are there any icons/indicators for the Hawk 80 I'm not seeing, does it matter for this machine?

no, it doesn't. heck, my 6004 doesn't either BUT i marked my head and throat ends with a sharpie. only reason i did that was so i could turn the SC mounting knobs the same direction each time i mount and dismount the frame.

[Lakers4Life]

Originally Posted by tbuggle

no, it doesn't. heck, my 6004 doesn't either BUT i marked my head and throat ends with a sharpie. only reason i did that was so i could turn the SC mounting knobs the same direction each time i mount and dismount the frame.

Really? Most of the previous 6004s had a diagram of the head and throat. Though it does not really matter. I know for sure the 5003 don't except the 2-point model SC models.

[tbuggle]

Originally Posted by Lakers4Life

Really? Most of the previous 6004s had a diagram of the head and throat. Though it does not really matter. I know for sure the 5003 don't except the 2-point model SC models.

well, both ends are symmetrical and it's SC. i've never noticed an icon and don't see why there would be one.

post a pic of your icons and where i should look, i'm not seeing it, nor am i seeing a reason why they might even exist.

thx.

[Lakers4Life]

I found these on Photostringer, but it's exactly the same on my machine.


This is the 6-point SC 6004

[diredesire]

Originally Posted by tbuggle

well, both ends are symmetrical and it's SC. i've never noticed an icon and don't see why there would be one.

post a pic of your icons and where i should look, i'm not seeing it, nor am i seeing a reason why they might even exist.

thx.

I don't actually see the POINT of it either, but the 2 point mount on my 5800 ELS has the markings, too. I am pretty sure the mounts are symmetrical about the center of the turn table, the only reason I can imagine is that often times the throat of the frame is thinner than the tip of the frame, so the adjustable mounting posts (white) need to be adjusted less frequently if you've got one side always at one end (and don't have to look for it). Otherwise...

I should note that it'd be really nice if we could offset the mounting stocks, I like mounting my frames slightly lower (with the frame offset towards the handle side a little bit). I find that this is much easier on the Prince O3 frames.

[Lakers4Life]

Originally Posted by diredesire

I don't actually see the POINT of it either, but the 2 point mount on my 5800 ELS has the markings, too. I am pretty sure the mounts are symmetrical about the center of the turn table, the only reason I can imagine is that often times the throat of the frame is thinner than the tip of the frame, so the adjustable mounting posts (white) need to be adjusted less frequently if you've got one side always at one end (and don't have to look for it). Otherwise...

I should note that it'd be really nice if we could offset the mounting stocks, I like mounting my frames slightly lower (with the frame offset towards the handle side a little bit). I find that this is much easier on the Prince O3 frames.

You make a good point. I have a strip of leather grip on the throat side, for thinner beam rackets. On the 6-point mounts, you can off set the racket from center with the billards.

[tbuggle]

my 6004 has nothing like that (just bought it last summer). they are identical, no markings. makes sense to me.

[diredesire]

Originally Posted by Lakers4Life

You make a good point. I have a strip of leather grip on the throat side, for thinner beam rackets. On the 6-point mounts, you can off set the racket from center with the billards.

Yeah, I'm aware, at least for the lower end models. I haven't worked with the higher end 6pt models. I also use leather strips for thin throats, I use belt leather, though. Sometimes I have to stack them. I feel very uncomfortable with the way Gamma suggests stringing the ultra-thin throat frames like the APD (according to their manual).

[tbuggle]

6 point mount, the racket never really sits on the towers anyhow. the arms/v-brackets support the frame height and the billiards just keep it "stretched" into place (bad term choice perhaps).

[TheLambsheadrep]

My purchase did not include a starting clamp. I have read and seen that they are not necessary, but I fear that starting the crosses without one with lead to the knot being pulled deep into the grommet. I just can not believe that any good starting clamp will run you $50! I have a feeling that something like this will be too heavy and too large, but would a locking auto clamp (http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Hanson-V.../dp/B00004SBCF) or any similar vice gripping tool work the same/hold the same tension (without damaging the string) as a starting clamp?

[Lakers4Life]

Starting clamps used reasonably priced. I think I paid $16 plus tax for mine, and use it as my main clamp. The others work great as well, but not as tight as my main one.

[TheLambsheadrep]

Originally Posted by Lakers4Life

Starting clamps used reasonably priced. I think I paid $16 plus tax for mine, and use it as my main clamp. The others work great as well, but not as tight as my main one.

Did you find it at a local tennis shop (since paying tax was involved)?

In this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBKZFFNLsKU when Irvin pulls at 2:55, it looks like the knot doesn't stress the grommet too much. Would the same grommet be able to take this method many times without a problem, is it stressing the frame at all? As he would continue stringing down the racquet, would it pull the knot in deeper (any worse that using a starting clamp would)?

[Lakers4Life]

Originally Posted by TheLambsheadrep

Did you find it at a local tennis shop (since paying tax was involved)?

In this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBKZFFNLsKU when Irvin pulls at 2:55, it looks like the knot doesn't stress the grommet too much. Would the same grommet be able to take this method many times without a problem, is it stressing the frame at all? As he would continue stringing down the racquet, would it pull the knot in deeper (any worse that using a starting clamp would)?

Nope I picked it direct from Eagnas, that was they were still $16, now they are $26.

It depends on the grommet. I've seen a couple of new racket that were strung like that and the grommet pushed out. I guess it was the stringer's fault for not being careful it did not happen, but it did.

With a starting clamp you don't put any stress on the grommet. For one reason, it's a tie off hole. Second, the starting clamp rests on the bumper guard. Third, in order to release the starting clamp you pull tension, then clamp the cross then tie off, just like the end of the crosses.

[TheLambsheadrep]

Ok, definitely going to look into a starting clamp. But, because I'm curious, can you start crosses the same way YUlitle starts the mains (two strings pulled at the same time) and use a base clamp where Irvin uses a starting clamp 7:20 here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81W09ntiYO8 (the whole stringing crosses process starts at 6:50)?

Instead of using a starting clamp to hold the first cross's tension from outside the frame, can the base clamp that's not holding the second cross (after the first and second crosses are pulled at the same time) be clamped where the starting clamp is in the video (but inside the frame obviously)? Then when you pull tension on just the second main, you can move the base clamp that's on the far side of the second main to the side where the string is being pulled from and clamp it. Then you can go down the rest of the crosses just using that one clamp while the other base clamp is still on the first cross. When you get far enough down and want to tie the first cross, you can pull tension on it and release then reuse that same base clamp and then tie off (since a base clamp ends up in that position anyway).

So step by step, it's:
1. Pull tension on the 1st and 2nd crosses simultaneously. .
2. Use a base clamp to hold the 2nd cross near the far grommet and release tension.
3. Pull tension on the 1st cross.
4. Use the other base clamp to hold the 1st cross near the close grommet and release tension.
5. Pull tension on the 2nd cross.
6. Release and reuse the base clamp that's on the 2nd cross to hold the 2nd cross near the close grommet and release tension.
7. Pull tension on the 3rd cross.
8. Use the 2nd cross's base clamp to hold the 3rd cross near the close grommet and release tension.
9. Pull tension on the 4th cross.
10. Use the 3rd cross's base clamp to hold the 4th cross near the close grommet and release tension.
11. Follow this pattern until you want to tie the 1st cross.
12. Pull tension on the 1st cross.
13. Release and reuse the base clamp that's on the 1st cross to clamp the 1st cross in the same area as it's been the entire time thus far.
14. Tie off the 1st cross
15. Continue stringing crosses from where you left off, and now you have both base clamps to work with.

Will this work?

[Irvin]

I must commend you on your effort but I must admit I didn't read it. If I were using flying clamp I would use a starting knot to start my crosses. More often than not you are going to lose a lot of tension tying off the top and bottom crosses using a flying clamp. Here is what I would try. Use a starting knot and run in the first two crosses leaving a loop large enough between the first and second cross to tension the top cross. Tension the top cross but don't clamp it. Tis will get some stretch out of the top cross if you leave the tensioner on a few seconds. Then tension the second cross double pulling the top two crosses and clamp.

EDIT: I did go back and read it and what you said will work except for the tension loss from the clamp twisting before you tie off, or from a large distanc e between the top and second cross.

[TheLambsheadrep]

Originally Posted by Irvin

I must commend you on your effort but I must admit I didn't read it. If I were using flying clamp I would use a starting knot to start my crosses. More often than not you are going to lose a lot of tension tying off the top and bottom crosses using a flying clamp. Here is what I would try. Use a starting knot and run in the first two crosses leaving a loop large enough between the first and second cross to tension the top cross. Tension the top cross but don't clamp it. Tis will get some stretch out of the top cross if you leave the tensioner on a few seconds. Then tension the second cross double pulling the top two crosses and clamp.

This sounds similar to the end of your Cross Starting Knot video, where you make the knot and then pull the 1st cross. What you're saying above is do that but then do a double pull and then clamp, noted.

What I was writing about is not using floating clamps, but fixed clamps (I was saying base clamps). I do not own any floating clamps or starting clamps yet, so I was seeing if the method I posted above would allow me to do the cross strings without additional clamps and without risking the starting knot damaging/pulling into the grommet by getting more crosses done first (which, from what I'm reading on the forum, is why people use the starting clamps).

[Irvin]

Sorry I did misunderstand you. Wat you say will work but seems like a like of dancing around. I would just use a starting knot without a starting clamp.

[tbuggle]

i'd just get a starting clamp (or use a starting knot if you must).
i just don't like the idea of starting knots in general although it's been used for ages...