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Old 02-18-2013, 04:27 PM   #21
MAX PLY
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Originally Posted by tennis4 View Post
The machine arrives!

It took me more than 10 minutes to push the tension head handle. Now I am looking to put the clamp in. Stupid? I question myself a few times already. When I pull the clamp bottom wide open, I still can't put it into the glide bar. Is it me or the precision issue? The side screw holding the glide bar are too tight that I don't want to use too much force...

Right now I am having a machine but not able to put them together. Laught, laught, laught hard ... I don't know what is going on.
Not sure I understand the tension head issue. Are you sure the locking lever was disenaged? As far as the clamps are concerned, it doesn't sound like you've opened them up completely. See p.5 of the manual--you should be able to flip the clamp latch all the way over and that will open the bottom. Take your time and consult the manual.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:27 PM   #22
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There is a spring-base stopper on the rod (attached to the tension head) where the handle attaches. It was so tight that I had a hard time to push the handle in so it can engage (lock).
At the end, I figure out there is a little "gap" so I push the handle downward and let the stopper fit into that gap, then push it in.

As far as installing the clamp is concerned, I have to remove the spring and everything, take the handle off the lock position, then the bottom can be open big enough, now it can be put on to the glide bar without any struggle.

At one point I felt so hopeless, I looked at the packaging box: was it made in china? no, it was made in taiwan. Anyway, it has nothing to do with that, it is such a mechanical marvel that my average IQ felt a little challenge.

Everything looks good. I wish the manual could be more detail.

I plan to give it a test run tomorrow. Thanks everyone for the help. I sure will post a few pictures to show off, at one point ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MAX PLY View Post
Not sure I understand the tension head issue. Are you sure the locking lever was disenaged? As far as the clamps are concerned, it doesn't sound like you've opened them up completely. See p.5 of the manual--you should be able to flip the clamp latch all the way over and that will open the bottom. Take your time and consult the manual.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:26 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by tbuggle View Post
Keep your hand on the crank handle!!!!!!.
This really cannot be stressed enough. I didn't learn this lesson the hard way. Hopefully you won't either and your knuckles, huevos, thighs, elbows etc will thank you.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:32 AM   #24
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I didn't read many of the replies, so I'm not sure if this was mentioned. The pro at my tennis shop told me he recommends I set the tension about 2-4 lbs higher on a crank to get my desired tension. So I've set the crank to 62lbs if I want ~60lbs tension on my stringbed. Tension has felt great so far.

One thing to be wary of: if you tighten your knot using your crank (some people do this) be careful not to overtighten! I've popped 2 strings on the very last knot because I got too anxious. The reason you'd even consider it is to avoid losing the tension right after your clamp. I'm not sure if it's even worth it.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:15 PM   #25
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https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9Oy...it?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9Oy...it?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9Oy...it?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9Oy...it?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9Oy...it?usp=sharing
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:41 PM   #26
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No wonder you had problems you tensioner is locked.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9Oy.../preview?pli=1

In the picture above the lever sticking up should be in the catch. Just push it in with your thumb and the crank handle should turn freely.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:04 AM   #27
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It was this balling stopper: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9Oy...it?usp=sharing
so tight that the handle can't be push in and sit on the stopper:



Now it is fine, so fine that I can take it out easily, don't even need to pull.

Another update: The initial callbration showed that actual tension was 5-7 lbs higher. I strung first time yesterday, tension not adjusted. The feel was kind of werid. I did the calibration a few minutes ago, it takes about 5-8 seconds to settle and is near the reference tension. I am going to string another one later to see if it works.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:21 AM   #28
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Then you are pulling well over reference tension. You want to set the tensioner @ the lock out tension not the settled tension.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:39 AM   #29
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How much time do people like you take to clamp the string after the tensioner kicks in? I think this time gap will decide the final tension. Right now it takes me about 3-4 seconds to put on the clamp. So it is like 2 seconds or less to slide the tensioner to lock-out position, 3-4 seconds to put on the clamp, is this the right way to approach it?




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Then you are pulling well over reference tension. You want to set the tensioner @ the lock out tension not the settled tension.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:11 AM   #30
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since all strings stretch and "relax" at different rates you can only control certain variables, lockout tension being one of them (as well as clamping time...).

therefore, if you try to achieve a certain tension after lockout, stretch, etc....your results will be all over the board (or even moreso).
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:11 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by tennis4 View Post
How much time do people like you take to clamp the string after the tensioner kicks in? I think this time gap will decide the final tension. Right now it takes me about 3-4 seconds to put on the clamp. So it is like 2 seconds or less to slide the tensioner to lock-out position, 3-4 seconds to put on the clamp, is this the right way to approach it?
It does not matter if it takes you 5 seconds, 5 minutes or five hours. Think about it when the tensioner locks out it is locked and the string is not stretched any more. If you don't clamp it it will lose tension through the relaxation process if you do clamp it the same thing happens.

Different strings stretch and relax differently. All string s will not stretch the same or relax the same. So although your tension may be consistent in the racket for the same string it may not be the same for a hybrid. When in doubt call the manufacturer and ask them how it should work. Pete is the person at Prince you need to talk to and he has been an MRT for a long time. Call Prince and just ask for Pete or tell them you have a stringing question. Their number is 800 2 TENNIS. What do you have to lose?
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:13 AM   #32
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BTW I don't use the lock out tensioner that often I use a Wise CP tensioner. With a constant pull tensioner it makes a big difference if you pull for 5 seconds or 5 minutes.
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:00 PM   #33
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I strung one racquet on X-2 and another on neos 1000 under the same tension.

While stringmeter's readings were close, the one from neos 1000 appeared to give me better feel. I guess each stringing machine has its own fingerprint, or characterisitc, which reflects in the stringjob.

Irvin, when I set the tensioner @ the lock out tension, the "real" tension I get would be lower, how much lower will depend on the pace between it kicks in and I clamp the string?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Irvin View Post
It does not matter if it takes you 5 seconds, 5 minutes or five hours. Think about it when the tensioner locks out it is locked and the string is not stretched any more. If you don't clamp it it will lose tension through the relaxation process if you do clamp it the same thing happens.

Different strings stretch and relax differently. All string s will not stretch the same or relax the same. So although your tension may be consistent in the racket for the same string it may not be the same for a hybrid. When in doubt call the manufacturer and ask them how it should work. Pete is the person at Prince you need to talk to and he has been an MRT for a long time. Call Prince and just ask for Pete or tell them you have a stringing question. Their number is 800 2 TENNIS. What do you have to lose?
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Old 02-20-2013, 04:44 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by tennis4 View Post
I strung one racquet on X-2 and another on neos 1000 under the same tension.

While stringmeter's readings were close, the one from neos 1000 appeared to give me better feel. I guess each stringing machine has its own fingerprint, or characterisitc, which reflects in the stringjob.

Irvin, when I set the tensioner @ the lock out tension, the "real" tension I get would be lower, how much lower will depend on the pace between it kicks in and I clamp the string?
I don't think so. When you turn the crank you will go from 0 lbs of tension to whatever tension you have set on the lockout. The longer it takes the tensioner to lockout the longer the string is stretched. At lockout your tension is set. What you are explaining is how a CP tensioner works. There is a distinct difference.

If you only pull one time with the crank you will end up with a lower tension than the reference tension. The difference between what a lockout does and what a constant pull does is very noticeable as you can attest.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:34 PM   #35
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So the resulting tension is most likely determined by the pace the tension head is turned? And I shouldn't worry much about the time between the tension head is locked and the string is clamped?

I ask this because sometime it takes me a second or two longer to clamp the string. I've tried to be consistent in both turning the tension head and clamping the string, but the latter part probably will need some more practice first.

I used an electronic scale when calibrating the machine last night. The tension peaked when the tension head was locked, then started decreasing. The read out became constant after 4-5 seconds.

Because of this, I wonder when I clamp the string might contribute to the final tension I will get, don't know if I worry too much or simply not the case.


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I don't think so. When you turn the crank you will go from 0 lbs of tension to whatever tension you have set on the lockout. The longer it takes the tensioner to lockout the longer the string is stretched. At lockout your tension is set. What you are explaining is how a CP tensioner works. There is a distinct difference.

If you only pull one time with the crank you will end up with a lower tension than the reference tension. The difference between what a lockout does and what a constant pull does is very noticeable as you can attest.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:59 AM   #36
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tennis4 what you are saying is true. The string will continue to relax forever. It just loses most of its tension in the first 4-5 seconds. That is why if you pull again after 5 seconds you can recover that tension loss.

One important point about the lockout is that at lockout the tension does not move any further. The string is just held. It does not matter if it is held by the tensioner or held by a clamp.
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:04 AM   #37
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It does not matter if it is held by the tensioner or held by a clamp.
Does it mean maintaining consistent pace of sliding the tension head is more important than that of clamping the string ( time gap between tension head locked and putting on the clamp) ?
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:06 AM   #38
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I think a steady consistent pull is more important
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:12 AM   #39
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I think a steady consistent pull is more important
thanks Irvin. I will experiment all these.

It is so much different operating a crank than a DW! I am relutant to say ... I should have upgraded sooner. While DW can produce good result too, it just needs more attention.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:30 AM   #40
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Does anyone know if it matters or not with a crank system to unwind the spring and reset the tension back to zero when not in use or can I just leave it set at ~57-59 lbs?
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