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#21 | |
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Professional
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,336
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#22 | |
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Rookie
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 167
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There is a spring-base stopper on the rod (attached to the tension head) where the handle attaches. It was so tight that I had a hard time to push the handle in so it can engage (lock).
At the end, I figure out there is a little "gap" so I push the handle downward and let the stopper fit into that gap, then push it in. As far as installing the clamp is concerned, I have to remove the spring and everything, take the handle off the lock position, then the bottom can be open big enough, now it can be put on to the glide bar without any struggle. At one point I felt so hopeless, I looked at the packaging box: was it made in china? no, it was made in taiwan. Anyway, it has nothing to do with that, it is such a mechanical marvel that my average IQ felt a little challenge. Everything looks good. I wish the manual could be more detail. I plan to give it a test run tomorrow. Thanks everyone for the help. I sure will post a few pictures to show off, at one point ... Quote:
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#23 |
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New User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 43
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| therecanbeonlyone |
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#24 |
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Rookie
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Georgia
Posts: 349
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I didn't read many of the replies, so I'm not sure if this was mentioned. The pro at my tennis shop told me he recommends I set the tension about 2-4 lbs higher on a crank to get my desired tension. So I've set the crank to 62lbs if I want ~60lbs tension on my stringbed. Tension has felt great so far.
One thing to be wary of: if you tighten your knot using your crank (some people do this) be careful not to overtighten! I've popped 2 strings on the very last knot because I got too anxious. The reason you'd even consider it is to avoid losing the tension right after your clamp. I'm not sure if it's even worth it. |
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| jaybear1909 |
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#25 |
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Rookie
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 167
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#26 |
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Legend
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 6,964
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No wonder you had problems you tensioner is locked.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9Oy.../preview?pli=1 In the picture above the lever sticking up should be in the catch. Just push it in with your thumb and the crank handle should turn freely.
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Irvin - I wish Facebook would notify me when people delete me so I can 'Like it' |
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#27 |
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Rookie
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 167
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It was this balling stopper: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9Oy...it?usp=sharing
so tight that the handle can't be push in and sit on the stopper: Now it is fine, so fine that I can take it out easily, don't even need to pull. Another update: The initial callbration showed that actual tension was 5-7 lbs higher. I strung first time yesterday, tension not adjusted. The feel was kind of werid. I did the calibration a few minutes ago, it takes about 5-8 seconds to settle and is near the reference tension. I am going to string another one later to see if it works. |
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#28 |
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Legend
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 6,964
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Then you are pulling well over reference tension. You want to set the tensioner @ the lock out tension not the settled tension.
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Irvin - I wish Facebook would notify me when people delete me so I can 'Like it' |
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#29 |
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Rookie
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 167
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How much time do people like you take to clamp the string after the tensioner kicks in? I think this time gap will decide the final tension. Right now it takes me about 3-4 seconds to put on the clamp. So it is like 2 seconds or less to slide the tensioner to lock-out position, 3-4 seconds to put on the clamp, is this the right way to approach it?
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#30 |
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Hall Of Fame
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 1,879
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since all strings stretch and "relax" at different rates you can only control certain variables, lockout tension being one of them (as well as clamping time...).
therefore, if you try to achieve a certain tension after lockout, stretch, etc....your results will be all over the board (or even moreso).
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I got some rackets, and I got a stringer. |
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#31 | |
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Legend
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 6,964
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Different strings stretch and relax differently. All string s will not stretch the same or relax the same. So although your tension may be consistent in the racket for the same string it may not be the same for a hybrid. When in doubt call the manufacturer and ask them how it should work. Pete is the person at Prince you need to talk to and he has been an MRT for a long time. Call Prince and just ask for Pete or tell them you have a stringing question. Their number is 800 2 TENNIS. What do you have to lose?
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Irvin - I wish Facebook would notify me when people delete me so I can 'Like it' Last edited by Irvin : 02-20-2013 at 10:15 AM. |
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#32 |
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Legend
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 6,964
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BTW I don't use the lock out tensioner that often I use a Wise CP tensioner. With a constant pull tensioner it makes a big difference if you pull for 5 seconds or 5 minutes.
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Irvin - I wish Facebook would notify me when people delete me so I can 'Like it' Last edited by Irvin : 02-20-2013 at 10:11 AM. |
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#33 | |
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Rookie
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 167
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I strung one racquet on X-2 and another on neos 1000 under the same tension.
While stringmeter's readings were close, the one from neos 1000 appeared to give me better feel. I guess each stringing machine has its own fingerprint, or characterisitc, which reflects in the stringjob. Irvin, when I set the tensioner @ the lock out tension, the "real" tension I get would be lower, how much lower will depend on the pace between it kicks in and I clamp the string? Quote:
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#34 | |
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Legend
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 6,964
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Quote:
If you only pull one time with the crank you will end up with a lower tension than the reference tension. The difference between what a lockout does and what a constant pull does is very noticeable as you can attest.
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Irvin - I wish Facebook would notify me when people delete me so I can 'Like it' |
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#35 | |
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Rookie
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 167
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So the resulting tension is most likely determined by the pace the tension head is turned? And I shouldn't worry much about the time between the tension head is locked and the string is clamped?
I ask this because sometime it takes me a second or two longer to clamp the string. I've tried to be consistent in both turning the tension head and clamping the string, but the latter part probably will need some more practice first. I used an electronic scale when calibrating the machine last night. The tension peaked when the tension head was locked, then started decreasing. The read out became constant after 4-5 seconds. Because of this, I wonder when I clamp the string might contribute to the final tension I will get, don't know if I worry too much or simply not the case. Quote:
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#36 |
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Legend
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 6,964
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tennis4 what you are saying is true. The string will continue to relax forever. It just loses most of its tension in the first 4-5 seconds. That is why if you pull again after 5 seconds you can recover that tension loss.
One important point about the lockout is that at lockout the tension does not move any further. The string is just held. It does not matter if it is held by the tensioner or held by a clamp.
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Irvin - I wish Facebook would notify me when people delete me so I can 'Like it' |
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#37 |
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Rookie
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 167
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#38 |
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Legend
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 6,964
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I think a steady consistent pull is more important
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Irvin - I wish Facebook would notify me when people delete me so I can 'Like it' |
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#39 |
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Rookie
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 167
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thanks Irvin. I will experiment all these.
It is so much different operating a crank than a DW! I am relutant to say ... I should have upgraded sooner. While DW can produce good result too, it just needs more attention. |
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#40 |
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New User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 16
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Does anyone know if it matters or not with a crank system to unwind the spring and reset the tension back to zero when not in use or can I just leave it set at ~57-59 lbs?
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| redduck996 |
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